• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.43-48
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• 2005

시료는 POY사 104/192로 Draw-Winder(독일, Zinser)를 이용하여 기존의 태세사 제조장치의 부분적인 개조를 통하여 길이방향으로 강제적인 태세사가 형성되도록 하는 제조기술을 이용하여 Thin-thick yam(T&T사) 6종류를 제조하였으며 제조 조건에 따른 구조변화와 물성에 대하여 연구 검토한 결과 다음과 같다. 결정화도의 변화는 Draw-winder의 R2 roller 온도가 상온인 경우보다 $100^{\circ}C$인 경우가 높게 나타났으며 태세사의 세(thin)부분의 복굴절률은 연신비가 높고 Draw winder의 roller(R2)의 온도가 높을수록 복굴절 값은 선형적으로 증가하였다. T&T사 제조시 연신 온도가 상온인 경우는 Thin부분만 연신이 진행되고 Thick 부분은 원사인 POY사의 성질이 그대로 유지하고 있음을 알 수 있고 R2 roller 온도가 상온에서 제조된 시료의 초기탄성률은 약1.5-2.0kgf/denier 정도로 높게 나타났으나 $100^{\circ}C$로 제조된 시료는 약 0.2-0.8kgf/denier 정도로 낮게 나타났다.

• 감성과학
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.67-74
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• 2002

Testing device was newly designed and built to measure the dynamic contact angle. The measurement was made using microscope interfaced with computerized image analysis system while the dynamic condition being controled using Instron. As specimens for the experiment, two different types of fibers, i.e., hydrophilic and hydrophobic, were prepared. In case of hydrophilic fiber, the increase of twist level gave the increase of contact angle. However, in hydrophobic yarn the increase of twist level gave the decrease of contact angle. When saline was used as a telling liquid, the increase of the concentration gave the increase of contact angle. The results rationalized clearly on the basis of known concepts could be used in designing fabric structure for the improvement of comport performance.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.59-64
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• 2006

니팅 공정상의 니팅 요소들 중 편침번수, 실의 공급 각도, 실의 공급 속도 등을 변화시키면서 새로 고안된 실험기구를 이용하여 니팅 존에서의 린트 발생현상을 조사하였다. 편침 번수와 실의 공급 각도는 실의 장력과 린트 발생량에 영향을 미쳤으며 이는 실과 편침 형태에 의한 마찰에 기인한 것으로 사료된다. 그러나 실의 공급 속도는 린트 발생에 큰 영향을 미치지 않았다. 본 실험을 기초로 하여 보다 더 심도 있는 연구를 위해서 좀더 정교한 실험기구의 개발이 필요하며 니팅요소들의 화학적, 기계적 변경에 의해 니팅공정상의 린트 문제를 개선시킬 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.408-412
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• 2003

The micro structure of POY was modified and a wool-like touch yarn of composite fibers with different shrinkage was made. With this yarn 12 different fabrics with wool like touch were prepared. The characteristic physical property changes of the fabrics examined are as follows: 1. In all cases, the initial high shrinkage stages were observed in hot water treatment and the 3D images of complex multilayer of typical doubling fibers with different shrinkage were also observed in hot air treatment of 170C. 2. The tensile strength changes of satin and plain fabrics with the change of twist count showed similar behavior. However, WT's were slightly higher and RT's was lower in twill and satin fabrics than those in plain fabric. 3. Since a slight decrease of B's of twill fabric found with increasing twist count under given experimental condition, it could be influenced on the anti-drape stiffness was decreased and flexibility was increased. 4. A significant decrease of G values was observed in the twist count 800-1000 T.P.M However, in the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M G values observed were kept nearly constant. 5. MIU of plain and twill fabrics showed a drastic decrease at the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권6호
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• pp.877-884
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• 2015

Polytrimethylene Terephthalate (PTT) is an eco-fiber with good elastic properties; however, it requires more detailed studies related to spinnability according to blending of various kinds of fibers. The evolution of spinning technology was focused on improved productivity with good quality; in addition, air vortex spinning was recently invented and applied on the spinning factory as the facility with good productivity and quality. More detail spinning technology according to the blending of various kinds of fibers on the air vortex spinning system is required to obtain good quality yarns for high emotional fabrics. In this paper, the physical properties of air vortex, compact and ring staple yarns using PTT/wool/modal blend fibers were investigated with yarn structure to promote high functional PTT that includes fabrics for high emotional garments. Unevenness of air vortex yarns was higher than those of compact and ring yarns; in addition, imperfections were greater than those of compact and ring yarns, which was attributed to a fascinated vortex yarn structure. Tenacity and breaking strain of air vortex yarns were lower than those of compact and ring yarns, caused by higher unevenness and more imperfections of air vortex yarns compared to compact and ring yarns. Vortex yarns showed the highest initial modulus and ring yarns showed the lowest ones which results in a stiff tactile feeling of air vortex yarns in regards to the initial modulus of yarns. Dry and wet thermal shrinkages of air vortex yarns were lower than ring yarns. Good shape retention of vortex yarns was estimated due to low thermal shrinkage.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.91-106
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.756-761
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• 2008

In this paper, silver slit yarns combined with cotton yarns were used to produce weft knits. The purpose of this study was to investigate the physical properties as well as the functional properties of weft knit with silver slit yarns. The six different weft knit fabrics were made from silver slit yarns varying knit structure and fabric density. One cotton weft knit was also knitted to compare the properties. Weft knits made from silver slit yarns were characterized by excellent antibacterial properties, electric magnetic shielding properties, UV-cut properties, anti-static properties, and air permeability. Although there were significant differences in the physical properties of different knit structure and the fabric density, weft knits with silver slit yarns were seen to have better end use properties and ideal for apparel than the cotton weft knits.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.42-48
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• 2006

The aim of this work is to develop Thick-Thin polyester yarn(T-T yarn) with finer than 1 denier mono filament. The manufacture of T-T yarns were carried out in a draw-winder using 85d/72f PET filament with various spinning speed of 2700, 2900, and 3100 m/min, respectively. The structure and physical properties of T-T yarns with spinning speed and over feed ratio were examined by draw-winder processing the sample in $100^{\circ}C$ water for 20 min and drying in 120, 140, 160, and $180^{\circ}C$ of dry air for 20 min. The crystallinity, the birefringence and the initial elasticity modulus of T-T yarns increased with increased spinning speed of filament and the heat treatment temperature but at the temperatures higher than $140^{\circ}C$ the increased rates show a tendency to decrease. Moreover, the initial modulus and the tenacity of T-T yarns increased with decreasing the over feed ratio of filament and the those of T-T yarns decreases with increasing the heat treatment temperature. The shrinkage of T-T yarns decreased with decreasing spinning speed and increased over feed ratio of filaments. Consequently, the results indicate that the best T-T yarn under 1 denier was optimized from PET filament with spinning speed of 2700 m/min and over feed ratio of 0.67

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1010-1017
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• 2013

Current global textiles and fashion industries have gradually shifted focus to high value-added, high sensibility, and multi-functional products based on new human-friendliness and sustainable growth technologies. Textile design CAD systems have been developed in conjunction with computer hardware and software sector advances. This study compares the patterns or images of actual woven fabrics and virtual fabrics prepared with a textile design CAD system. In this study, several weave structures (such as fancy yarn weave and patterns) were prepared with a shuttle loom. The woven textile images were taken using a CCD camera. The same weave structure data and yarn data were fed into a textile design CAD system in order to simulate fabric images as similarly as possible. Similarity Index analysis methods allowed for an analysis of the index between the actual fabric specimen and the simulated image of the corresponding fabric. The results showed that repeated small pattern weaves provide superior similarity index values than those of a fancy yarn weave that indicate some irregularities due to fancy yarn attributes. A Complex Wavelet Structural Similarity(CW-SSIM) index resulted in a better index than other methods such as Multi-Scale(MS) SSIM, and Feature Similarity(FS) SSIM, across fabric specimen images. A correlation analysis of the similarity index based on an image analysis and a similarity evaluation by panel members was also implemented.

• 연구논문집
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• 통권30호
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• pp.101-110
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• 2000

고속 Rapier loom에서 위사를 Insert rapier와 Carrier rapier로서 경사를 상부와 하부로 2구분한 개구속으로 투입하여 경사와 위사의 조직을 완성시키는 위입기구는 스크류 구동방식이다. 이는 래피어와 휠의 치수를 줄이고, 기어와 벨트가 없이 직접 주축에 연결하는 구조이다. 그러므로 래피어가 요구하는 어떠한 가속도 곡선이 가능하여 고속화와 가동률 향상에 최적으로 정확한 설계에의한 래피어 운동이 필수적이다. 따라서 본 연구는 전체 거동의 파악을 위한 시스템의 정확한 해석과 컴퓨터 시뮬레이션을 통한 Rapier loom의 고속화를 목적으로, 위입기구의 해석이론 정립 및 스크류의 회전에 따라 정확한 운동을 유도할 수 있도록 래피어의 변위, 속도 및 가속도 성분의 도출은 물론 동시에 화면상에 구현할 수 있는 스크류기구에 대한 시뮬레이션 프로그램을 개발하는 것이다.