• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.7
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• pp.33-53
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate women's indoor and outdoor everyday life including their housework, labor and leisure of the late Chosen period as expressed in paintings. Women's everyday life was classified into their indoor and outdoor life according to the custom of Naeoe, which had confined women's activities in the outdoors. This study analyzed 93 Paintings depicting the Due life of People. As a result, even though the Chosen period was a conservative society dominated by Confucian custom that confined women in the home, most women spent much of their time in the outdoors carrying water, washing clothes and doing farm work. Some common women participated in marketing household product, peddling and managing a drink shop. Especially, servant women such as Kineo, Muneo and Youneo labored in Public offices or Private Places. Consequently, this study suggests that the misconception should be corrected that traditional women's sex role had been confined exclusively in the home.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.124-132
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• 2007

This study aims at inquiring into the image and characteristics of suitable hair style by occupation between movie actresses, TV talents, fashion models, singers and MCs who undergo the biggest influence on the management of international image and the inclination of appearance. For this, it made a survey of the image and characteristics on 177 women in their twenties to thirties living in Seoul city, providing photos of entertainers' six hair styles by image. The results of this study were as follows: First, it showed that movie stars or TV talents shone into one work of movie or TV become accustomed to natural, casual and romantic image. Second, it showed that singers or fashion models become accustomed to ethnic and unique style, as they follow an occupation that adjusts to their concept to show their clothes.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.808-811
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• 2022

In this paper, a wide-range microphone system for lectures using dual 3D sensors is proposed. A previous work using a single sensor had lowering the detecting threshold to support wide-area. However it was found that an error occurred when lecturer wears clothes with low reflectivity or has small body size. When multiple sensors are used to expand the coverage it could be cause various problems. Each sensor could show different distance to the same target. We derive the rotation angle and and compensate for lecturing microphone system using sensors on the line. The proposed method shows a little improvement in performance by about 1dB compared to the previous works but the performance is uniform in all areas regardless of reflectivity.

• SUVANNABHUMI
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.123-144
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• 2017

The changing of clothes in Balagtas' 1860 fictional comedy La filipina elegante y negrito amante (The Elegant Filipina and the Amorous Negrito) is used to explore the ethnic, cultural, and sartorial diversity in 19^th century colonial Philippines. But, how does plurality in men's clothing reflect the socio-economic conditions of the late Spanish colonial period? This paper focuses on the diversity in Philippine men's clothing around 1850 to 1896, taking into account the limited range of colonial archetypes in iconographic and documentary sources. Underscoring the colonial culture that shaped mentalities and tendencies, this study offers insights on how clothing was used and how it was perceived in relation to the wearer. In discussing clothing diversity, distinctiveness was articulated using the work of J.A.B. Wiselius (1875), a Dutch colonial administrator in neighboring Indonesia, who in comparing Spanish and Dutch systems of colonial governance, underscored the Filipino penchant for imitation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.261-276
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• 2010

The analysis of an art trend in the principle dimension starts by observing the object of work in the perspective of formative composition and recognizing it as a universal system. It can be said that it is consistent with an interpretation method for a form theory of formal history by Heinrich W$\ddot{o}$lfflin, a leading form critic in art criticism. Hence, the purpose of this study was to find out what are the formative principles in Renaissance Classicism as a design principle to be applicable to modern fashion by reviewing the formative characteristics of Renaissance Classicism Architecture with which W$\ddot{o}$lfflin directly dealt. As for the theoretical literature review, I used W$\ddot{o}$lfflin's theoretical framework and looked at the Renaissance Classicism Architecture that he studied and examined the possibility of utilizing his theory as a layout principle and the characteristics. As for analysis of design cases, I applied the aforementioned architecture layout principle to modern fashion and conducted case study analysis to delve into distinctive layout principles found in fashion. The study showed that the Renaissance Classicism Architectural Style is marked by linearity, planarity, closing and multiple unity: linearity was expressed in the observation form in fixed frontal view and an emphasis on a tangible silhouette homeogenous and definite line structures; planarity was achieved in the form of paralleled layers of frontal view element, planarity style, and identical and proportional repetition of various sizes.; closing signified the pursuit of complete and clear regularity, and architecture developed in a constructive phase through organizational inevitability and absolute invariability.; multiple unity was expressed in self-completedness and independent parallel of discrete forms and harmony of emphasized individual elements in a totality. Applying these layout characteristics of the Renaissance Classicism Architectural style and to see their individual expressive features, I found out that in adopting layout principles of the Renaissance Classicism Architecture to modern fashion, it turned out to be an emphasis of individual silhouettes, a flattened space, completed objects, organic harmony among independent parts: the emphasis of individual silhouettes was expressed in individual definitiveness of formative lines of clothes in accordance with body joints and an emphasis on formative lines of clothes; the flattened space was marked by single layer structure, planarity of elements of clothes, and listing arrangement by appropriate proportion.; the completedness of the objects was expressed by the stationary state where overall image is fixed, the construction of homogeneous and complete space, and absolute inevitability of internal layout in proportion; lastly, organic harmony of independent parts was stressed in independent completedness of each detail, and organic harmony of the whole. The expressive features would lead to a unique expression style of linear emphasis, proportion, constructive forms, and two-dimensional arrangement. The meaning of this study is follows: The characteristics of art school of thought are given shape by appling & analysing the architectural layout principles of historical art school of thought to modern fashion in the view point of formal construction dimension. The applied possibility of historical art school of thought as the source of inspiration about the fashion design is extended.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.139-161
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• 2002

This study investigates the characteristics of Nordic sweaters works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) development of Nordic sweaters, 2) the characteristics of Nordic sweaters industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns, 4) the symbolic meaning of the designs in the Nordic sweaters and patterns. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. It was also developed in Scandinavian regions which lead the fashion in modern days. Scandinavian knitting techniques have been diffused into the east coast of England and Northern Europe by Vikings. 2. Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. 1) Norway ; Simple and geometric Norwegian patterns are classified into three groups of motifs: (a) the motifs of cross, diamond, X, and swastika (equation omitted). (b) the motifs of human figures, animals and birds, (c) floral motifs (especially eight-petal roses). Their use of color is also simple, and is limited to more than two colors. (2) Sweden ; Swedish patterns are colorful and geometric. They are characterized by features such as brocade, complex embroidery, and contrast of red and black colors. They also show Guernsey patterns. Initials and production years were knitted in sweaters which have different patterns in their trunks and sleeves. 3) Denmark ; The Danish pattern is the purl stitch knitted against the stockinette stitch. The technique is used to copy woven damask motifs. The patterns are seen most clearly when they are knit with smooth yarn. The Faeroe sweaters are the representative work of Danish knitting. Faeroe knitting, incorporates stranded pattern and is knit in the round, either with circular needles. 4) Finland ; Finnish patterns are similar to Norwegian patterns. Finnish knitted work show very colorful, variety and free-flowing geometric patterns. 5) Iceland ; Icelandic knitting shows original ribbon pattern. Lope sweater is the representative work. 3. The traditional knitting patterns not only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns. In short, the knitted work in the Nordic sweaters served the function of admiring the beauty of nature and symbolizing various meanings. The unique designs and colors of the knitted work reflected the characteristics of the culture those works belonged to. This study also turns our attention to the issue of how the traditional colors and designs of the knitted work can contribute to the development of modern designs, and by doing so, if makes us realize the importance of knitted works in modern society.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 1981

Silk textile finishing has been studied for many years by many workers in order to meet more utilities for various endusers. Such studies, however, could not be successful because any natural fibers are hardly change their natures by artificial treating methods. Textile finishing is of course to improve the mechandise qualities and the poor natures of silk so that it may be available as the best textile fiber in the world. Sometimes, famous trade marked textile plays more power than its quality in the silk market, nevertheless, this should be over line of research activities. Meantime, the silk demand has been also transferred from ladies stocking to other clothes since nylon or other synthetic fibers were developed. That is why, the extension of silk demand should be developed by various research works. Specially, silk is known as difficult textile to handle it during washing or ironing process which happened to depress down the silk usage for house wives. In order to solve such problems, the reporter has been worked for many years and now, he believes that he has developed a proper finishing method to coversuch problems. The developed finishing method may be said to eligible with economical aspect and shorten the dry duration after water washing in half against normal silk textile without harming the specific silk nature. As all of us know, silk fiber starts to denature since it was spinned by silkworm and the fiber is formed as overlapped "S" type curves during its concooning process. After it is made as raw silk or sericin silk, it shows as straight line form, but it changes in to waved form in case refining or degumming process in order return to its original spinned form. Such nature is continued during its textile form and ends with hard ironing nature than other textile fibers. Mean while, the silk fiber keeps to continue its denaturing and this is iniciated by repeat of washing and drying which takes many years to reach its final stage, The reporter has found the iniciating denature of silk by his finishing process, with out heat, decreasing the swollen nature which ended with shortening the drying duration after wash. Each washing was carried out by soaking the previously weighed sample in cold water for one hour, then pressed the sample for ten minutes to eliminate its free water component before weighing with same condition. According to this, the treated silk showed much denaturing after the finishing, but the standard silk progressed the denaturing by and by with the repeat of washing and drying, finally reached the same swollen degree of treated silk, Such treating result explains that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other hand, standard silk may reach to such condition by the time of worn out clothes after repeat of washing and drying for many years while the clothes will be no more useful. The decreased swelling nature has brought about the drying period in half against standard silk after all. Not only the tests of tenacity and elongation but also crease resistance recovery, stiffness and shrinkage tests were carried out after each washing and drying which he has found better result on the treated silk textile against the standard silk. The most important thing was to keep the textile feeling of silk by such finishing work before improve any poor nature of silk. The general silk has a nature to absorb smoke or dirt from its surrounding air and reaches to dirty color shade upon such exposure, but the treated one has improved such nature because of its artificial denaturing, another word, it keeps clean longer than the normal silk. Many previous finishing works could improve some specific nature of silk, but it happened to deprave other important natures. The reporters work is, however, specialized to improve the silk to be useful as Wash and Wear Silk without harming its standard natures. So far, this work happened to be a overall innovative finishing method of silk textile.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.119-128
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the military look, which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the 1996 women's fashion. Military look is that imitates or reinterprets the Army uniform which is functionally useful. After World War 1 , military look appeared in the women's fashion which is functionable tailor suits style, ankle-length skirt, pants or boiler suits for work wear, overcoat against the cold, and there was an attempt to introduce a National Standard Dress. In the middle of World War II, there was a similiar circumstance in women's military fashion. There were functionable tailor suits, knee-length skirt, pants or siren suits for work wear. And the Utility Dress was nationally recommended. In addition, the regulations were introduced to control the materials and styles used for some clothes. In the 70s, as the resistance movement as counterculture began to wear Army look which was army-uniform or army caps with 'US ARMY' logo and badges, and became very popular among the youth. In the 90s, military look has got one of the fashionable fashion themes with revival of Neo- Hippie look. Not only street fashion but also high fashion designer selected the trend for '96A/W The characteristics of the military look are khaki colors or camouflage prints, epaulets, big outpockets with flap, golden buttons and army belt. As I examined, during the World War I and ll, women wore the military look because of shortage of goods and work or service, and it was recommended by government. Though the military look in 70s, began by the resistance movement, at least it became a popular fashion. Military look in 90s, does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents fashion trend and revival fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.12-22
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• 2002

This study examines the visitors'evaluations of tourism resources in Insa-dong, which the Seoul metropolitan government has improved recently. This study adopted the method of Importance-Performance Analysis by collecting data through questionnaires. A random sampling of visitors to Insa-dong was conducted in June and July,2001. The survey included questions on the physical and psychological components of Insa-dong's tourism resources. In the case of physical components, eight factors(ancient arts shop, art gallery, atelier, calligraphy shop, pottery arts, traditional tea house, antique shop, traditional clothes) out of thirteen were categorized as 'keeping up the good work'. None of the Physical components was shown as 'low priority'or'possible overkill'. In particular, four factors(restaurant, heritage, Korean-style house and alley, traditional cultural festival) need to be impoved most urgently in terms of visitors'satisfaction. Survey results realize them as high priority in importance but low in performance, thereby designated as, 'concentrate here'. An image of the 'street' showed to be high in importance and identical in performance, so can be categorized between'keeping up the good work'and 'concentrate here'. The results show that unusual outdoor spaces and the festivals of Insa-dong have a significant meaning to the visitors. In the case of psychological components, three factors(general atmosphere experience of unusual atmosphere, appropriateness of stroll time) out of seventeen were categorized as 'keeping up the good work'. Ore factor (shopping) was designated as 'low priority'and not found to be 'possible overkill'. Thirteen factors (various events, possibility of various activity, various flood, richness of play, new experience, education cultural inheritance, parking facilities, resting places, green spaces, meeting places, guide map and information, cleanliness of facilities/convenience) need to be improved mast urgently in terms of visitors' fulfillment. They are perceived as areas of 'concentrate here'. This confirms that attractive events are essential for the recent visitor satisfaction. Furthermore, visitors are not satisfied with its amenity and acccss in Insa-dong despite the improvements. In conclusion, positive impressions, both physical and psychological, should be maintained while factors mentioned to be lacking should be prioritized in order of necessity to improve the image of Insa-dong and solutions need to be found and implemented. The results of this study would be helpful in the planning and management of nsa-dong considering the visitors'requirements.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1009-1020
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• 2009

This study aims to express the androgynous image via shirts as a fashion item. Shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. As for the theoretical background, the study was reviewed previous studies of books, thesis, a series of publication, and the Internet sites on this topic. Through a careful analysis of these previous studies, it designed and made shirts that inspired by androgynous image. Conclusions of this study are as follows: First, the study found that meanings of symbolism in clothing continue to change, not fixed at all, depending on historic and cultural environments, and so does symbolism for femininity and masculinity of clothing. Second, shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. Third, two patters were used for the work in this study in order to emphasize its form, along with mono color white and stripe patterns. For materials, cotton and blend as a most basic material for a shirt were used with unique variations in the form. Fourth, decorative details or trimming such as ribbon tying methods, shirring, attaching in layers, and irregular pleading widely used for women's wear were applied, and silhouettes with strong drape feelings were used to add feminine feature to men' shirts, in an effort to propose a fashion design of the androgynous look. Fifth, clothes proposed in this study are different from feminine clothing item blouse, because they are androgynous shirts mixing masculinity and femininity. Stiff pads were used in collars and cuffs characteristics of men's traditional shirts to maintain masculinity of a shirt, and design was developed by adding feminine decorative elements, which is different from women's blouse.