• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.1
• /
• pp.67-77
• /
• 2003

Subjective sensorial experiment was executed with 43 subjects to find the relationships between the sensibility of jacket styles and the handle of wool fabrics. The handle and sensibility of wool fabrics were significantly different according to the wool types, and the handle was defined as two axis of Wild/Exquisite vs. Thin/Thick. The sensibility of jacket styles was different by the types of jacket styles, and the jackets were displayed in the 2D of Masculine/Feminine vs. Country/urban according to the factor analysis using 8 sensibility words. The best-appropriate jacket styles for each wool fabrics were converged into several jacket styles, and it was found that the wool fabrics were divided as for all-purpose or for specific-end usage. For the results of correspondence analysis of the matrix for the best-appropriate jacket style for each wool fabric, the jacket styles and wool fabrics together were grouped as 4: Striking and Yang, Striking and Yin, Plain and Yang, Plain and Yin.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
• /
• 2002.05a
• /
• pp.291-294
• /
• 2002

Fabric hand and sensibility must be studied together with the apparel sensibility. This study included 8 wool fabrics and 10 jacket styles to execute experiment their subjective sensibility and to look for the effects of subject's experiences. The wool sensibility changes not with the wool type but also with their appropriate jacket styles. Expert designers evaluated some of the wool and jacket sensibility differently from students did.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2009.03a
• /
• pp.229-230
• /
• 2009

Recently the demand for wool has been gradually decreasing due to global warming, oil depletion, Coolbiz campaign to reduce CO2 emission, and preference for business casual wear, while the price for wool materials has been constantly increasing. Wool, characterized by the natural touch and unique sensibility, is considered as one of the best natural materials, including silk. For wool, currently Korea almost depends on import from foreign countries. Therefore, 100% wool products cannot be competitive in terms of pricing and current trend. To secure sustaining competitiveness in the fiber market, it is required not only to develop new wool materials that enable expression of new sensibility that cannot be expressed by conventional wool fibers, but also to pursue differentiation of fundamental sensibility and functionality by highlighting advantages for wool as a natural fiber but by reducing its disadvantages through dominant conjugation with synthetic fibers. This study attempted to improve the technology of differentiating wool-like synthetic fibers such as polyester and combine technology with sensibility through mixing with wool materials. It also aimed to develop wool-like stretch materials and pre-treating and yarn dyeing technologies that enable fabrics to main natural wool-like touch and stretch, and ultimately to develop wool mixed fabrics that have new sensibility and functionality.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.5 no.3
• /
• pp.53-59
• /
• 2002

The surface fibers on the fabric is one of decisive factors which affects human sensory evaluation as well as heat and moisture transfer characteristics. In this study the length and distribution of surface fibers that are extruded from the fabric surface of the wool/wool blend fabrics (14 wool fabrics and 10 wool blend fabrics) and its contribution to subjective sensory evaluation were investigated. In order to quantify the length and distribution of surface fibers, image analysis and wavelet transform technique were introduced. Instant warm-cool feeling of touch, Q$\_$max/, and contact area were also measured and related to the quantified surface fibers. To figure out the effect of surface characteristics on sensory evaluation, human sensory responses to three adjectives which represent surface characteristics and warm-cool feeling of touch were obtained and analyzed. The relationship between the quantified surface fibers assessed by wavelet energy and both warm-cool reeling of touch, Qmax, and human sensory response were discussed.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
• /
• 2000.04a
• /
• pp.394-399
• /
• 2000

Composite materials are drawing attention as the leading fabrics for casual wear. One reason for this is the shift in fashion trend to more casual apparel. Espectations of further acceleration in this area are so high that woven fabric movement are taking more and more of a new turn away from conventional materials made of fine denier filament to wool-like fabrics by mellange effects.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.20 no.2
• /
• pp.413-426
• /
• 2011

This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of texture image and preference according to fiber blending ratio of men's suit fabrics. 110 subjects evaluated the texture image and preference of various fabrics. For statistical analysis, factor analysis, MDS, pearson correlation and ANOVA were used. The results were as follows: Sensory image factors of suit fabrics were 'smoothness', 'bulkiness', 'stiffness', 'elasticity', 'moistness' and 'weight sensation'. Sensibility image factors were 'classic', 'practical', 'characteristic' and 'sophisticated'. 'Bulkiness' and 'elasticity' sensory images showed high correlations with sensibility images. Fabrics with high wool blending ratio showed as 'classic' and 'sophisticated', 'bulkiness' and 'elasticity' texture images and fabrics with low wool blending ratio showed texture images of 'characteristic', 'surface character', 'stiffness', 'moistness' and 'weight sensation'. Wool fiber blending ratio affected on the purchase preference and tactile preference. Using regression analysis, it was shown that sensibility images had more of an effect on preference than sensory images. The thickness and pattern type showed positive effects and fiber blending ratio showed negative effects on the preference.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.15-31
• /
• 2001

Textile fabrication affected by consumer and selected by fashion designer. The textile fabrication has been made not only by introducing the newly developed fiber but also by modifying the existing textile materials to impart sensibility to them. Consumers choose but to their sensibility of textile material and fashion trend. On purpose in this research is find out have influence on textile image. Wool fabrics have been in use from early age in northern Europe. Recognition of the role of the morphological structure, surface properties, chemical composition, acid-base characteristics in the chemical treatment of wool led to quantum advances in the fields of setting, shrink-resisting, chemical modification, and internal fiber cross-linking. Mechanical finishing to develop the handle, drape, and surface characteristics of the fabric is at least as important as chemical or wet finishing. Result showed that to have variety sensibility and trend theme in wool fabrics are tweed, venetian, serge, gabardine and melton.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.8 no.3
• /
• pp.17-25
• /
• 2006

We performed the objective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics with knitted fabrics as basis, knitted five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yams made by different twisting methods(the amount and direction of twist) then, measuring mechanical properties in the use Kawabata Evaluation System, obtaining hand values and total hand values. The results are as follows: First, A(F)/W acrylic/wool spun knits obtain high scores in bending, compressing, shear properties, MMD, and thickness among five kinds of acrylic-blended knit fabrics. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knit represented prominent values at compressing properties and thickness and so wool-blended yams demonstrated superior characters comparing other blended yarns. To contrast, acrylic/rayon blended knits showed low scores in bending properties, shear properties and thickness, so that it affects to total hand values. On the one hand, among the four kinds of acrylic filament knitted fabrics, they do not exhibit any notable dynamic differences such as tensile properties of knitted fabrics by the twist number and direction of filament yarns, bending, shear, compressing properties, weight and thickness except surface properties. Second, fabrics showed the most high score at FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) among the hand values. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knits obtaining the lowest values at SAHRI (crispness) outrank at total hand values, so that it was the predominant knitted fabric in objective sensibility evaluation. In total hand values, five kinds of acrylic blended knits got a higher score than four kinds of acrylic filament knits, and the amount and direction of twist did not influence on total hand values among the four kinds of acrylic filaments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.11
• /
• pp.1516-1523
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study were to analyze the effect of weft knit structural characteristics on the subjective texture and sensibility. For this, the material was knitted into 8 kinds of weft plain knit fabrics with four kinds of fiber components such as wool, acryl, rayon, and nylon, 3 steps of densities and 3 steps of twist numbers to ply two yarns. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA and multidimensional scaling. From factor analysis, subjective textures were categorized as 'bulk/resilience', 'surface/density' and 'soft/drape', and subjective sensibilities were categorized as 'natural/comfortable', 'feminine/elegance' and 'stable/neat' Among the knit structural characteristics, the component of fibers and the density of fabrics were the important factors to give variations in texture and sensibility : In comparison with wool knit of medium density, the knit fabrics of other components and different densities each showed a unique texture and sensibility. But twist number to ply two yams had a few influence on subjective properties. As a result of MDS analysis, the texture and sensibility of plain weft knit fabrics was classified as 'thin-full', 'hard-soft', 'young-old' and 'warm-cool'.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2008.10a
• /
• pp.141-142
• /
• 2008