• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.101-114
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• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.813-824
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• 2007

This study purposed to analyze the preference suit design of spring and summer for elderly women who become weak in physical, physiological and psychological aspects. Accordingly, a questionnaire survey was conducted to analyze clothes elderly women prefer and present design. As a result, the following conclusions were obtained : First, The style of outfit that elderly women preferred when they went out was a tailored collar jacket and a straight slacks suit. On the assumption that they buy a jacket, however, they preferred a peter pan collar jacket, while they did not like a tailored collar jacket. Second, They liked light and bright pink and yellow colors as color of clothes for spring season, but they preferred grey color most in buying suit actually. For autumn season, they preferred beige, brown or grey colors most. With regard to materials for suit, they liked wool solid fabrics with stretch. As for a blouse, they preferred a single color most. There were significant difference between preference suit design and Assumption of buying suit design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권6호통권59호
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• pp.990-998
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• 2005

The purpose of the study was to examine Korean elderly women's attitudes toward fashion and to determine formal jacket designs preferred by them. The subjects of the study were older than 50 years who will become aging population in 2014. For data collection, interview investigated 200 copies of questionnaire were collected, and available data used final analysis were 174 volumes. As the results of the principal components factor analysis, it revealed 4 attitudinal factors including cautious attitude, fashion-conscious attitude, ostentatious attitude, and easy-conscious attitude. The subjects divided into two groups, highly involved group and lowly involved group, for each factor. As the result of preference differences by the degree of each attitude, it revealed that the attitudes toward fashion products would significantly influence elderly women's jacket design preferences. The results of the study show that they are a diverse group whose consumer needs and wants vary dramatically and give initial information to assist designing appropriate formal jacket for elderly women.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.216-224
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• 2016

Recently, the interest in a garment that accentuates a fit and slender body continues to be highly desirable. Customers frequently want to wear a slim designed jacket that fits well, reflecting the trends of being young and slim. Accordingly, this research collected information on brands with ready-to-wear slim fit tailored jackets that target female customers in their 30s. By identifying the jacket pattern design and production state by brand, and evaluating the appearance when wearing the jacket, I was able to draw up the following conclusions. First, the fit highlights many problems because of the difference between the model size of brands that targeted domestic women in their 30s and the standard somatotype of them. This can be solved by considering the somatotype of women in their 30s when choosing the models. Second, the relative simplicity of the pattern should allow a slim fit tailored jacket to be produced that fits the front, back and side well. This would lead to the development of a jacket that would fit better as well as allowing for ease of movement. Similar to this, the model size of domestic brands changes frequently and customers prefer the size of a slim model instead of the size suitable for a target's somatotype. This results in a limit on the levels of satisfaction regarding brand targets for body types. Accordingly, it is hoped that this research will become the standard data for the development of a slim fit tailored jacket that will fit women in their 30s well.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the proper combination of ensemble suit details for the body silhouette of elderly women. In this study, the principal component analysis was used to search for the proper combination of suit details for covering defects of body which has been changed unbalanced. The designs of evaluated suits were manipulated in 18 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, neckline(round neckline, shirt collar, tailored collar), types of one-piece dress(pleats type, gather type, flare type), and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analyzed by mean, paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results were summarized as follows: In case of normal body type, it had complementary effects for upper body with closed round neckline jacket or shirt collar jacket, and for lower and the whole body with a combination of closed tailored collar jacket or shirt collar jacket with pleats or gored type one piece dress. The visual effect for elderly women's body shape was different in opened or closed jacket. And that enhanced by Jacket with collar.

• 복식
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.33-44
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the style and the color of jacket, the style of shirt, and stimulus-manufacturing method on men's image perception. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used, and the experimental design was $2{\times}2{\times}2{\times}2$ (jacket style${\times}$jacket color${\times}$shirt style${\times}$stimulus-manufacturing method) factorial design. Computer simulation picture and photograph were used for stimulus-manufacturing method. Subjects were 377 women in the metropolitan area of Seoul. The data were analyzed by using factor analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$-reliability coefficient, and three-way ANOVA. The men's image derived five dimensions by factor analysis; neatness, ability, activity, individuality, and sociability. Tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in ability, individuality, and sociality than jumper with jean pants, and jumper was evaluated higher than tailored jacket in activity. The indigo jacket was evaluated lower in individuality in the picture stimuli than in the photograph stimuli. The beige tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in activity than indigo tailored jacket. However, the indigo jumper was evaluated higher in activity than beige jumper. Dress shirt under the tailored jacket was evaluated higher in ability and individuality than T-shirt under the tailored jacket. T-shirt under the jumper was evaluated higher in activity than dress shirt.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 1998년도 추계학술발표 논문집
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• pp.235-249
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to provide an understanding of the designs that aid in the production or selection of clothing that generally corresponds with the contours of the human body. The study looks at effective and attractive clothing design used in various situations with the goal of gaining understanding of the nuances of women's jackets. To achieve the goals of this jacket study, a sensuous test was employed and several horizontal sections, based on silhouette appearance, were compared and then analysed. The sensuous test was aimed at understanding the visual effects of the silhouette of the jacket.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.179-196
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• 2009

This is a follow-up study to "An Analysis of the Fitting of Plus-sized Women's Formal Jackets in On-line Shopping Malls", in which we compiled basic sizes of formal jackets sold in online retailers for plus-sized women and compared specific measurements of the jackets from each retailer. Emphasizing a comparison of age groups 20-39 and 40-59, fit evaluations and analyses were conducted in order to provide data to help manufacturers develop formal jacket patterns that reflect physical characteristics of plus-sized consumers and offer better physical fit. The surveys and evaluations were conducted between October 2007 and May 2008. and the compiled data were analyzed using the SPSS 17.0 statistics program. The results were summarized as follows. The two age groups gave different evaluations of the fit problems in the women's formal jackets sold in online retailers. Whereas the age group 20-39 felt that the main problems were in the shoulder, armscye, upper arm, waist, abdomen and hip areas, the age group 40-59 said that they found more problems in the armscye, upper arms, sleeve length and jacket length. Modifying the shoulder area, armscye depth and jacket length severely compromises the jacket's balance, and attention to these areas must be given during pattern design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.301-314
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• 2017

This study focused on the movement adaptability of $19^{th}$ century classical opera stage costumes. Researchers focused on a basic $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study analyzed movement adaptability using ROM (range-of-motion) tests of the upper limb flexion and abduction postures. It developed two research garments to mimic basic $19^{th}$ century style jackets with or without gussets at the axilla. The ROM experiment identified the gusset size as 11cm in length. Experimental postures included upper limb flexion and abduction. The study measured subjective comfort at 8 postures. These postures included the flexion and abduction of the arms and torso. Subjects also evaluated the subjective comfort of the rotation posture of the torso. Researchers evaluated the similarities between research garments' silhouettes and the $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study used a 3D virtual fitting system to evaluate fit, and specialists further analyzed fit with photographs and 3D virtual graphics. The results are as follows. The silhouettes of both research garments were similar to the silhouettes of the $19^{th}$ century western women's jacket. The jacket with axilla gusset had a better fit than the basic style jacket. The basic style jacket without the axilla gusset showed limited movement adaptability at the shoulder joint and it caused discomfort at the axilla and elbow. The 3D virtual fit test was not a suitable method for analyzing silhouette similarity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.183-194
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• 2013

In recent years, intense cold spells caused by climate change have encouraged an increasing number of people to wear a variety of padded jackets. In this context, this paper aims to address the production of padded jackets in casual brands and to develop basic patterns for well-fitted padded jackets targeted toward women in their 20s. The study centered on the production of padded jackets from 13 apparel companies. In addition, three sample jackets were created with 3oz. fill in the body and 2oz. fill in the sleeves, and they were subjected to a wearing test to determine their movement functionality. The research findings were as follows. Woven jackets constituted 53.4% of the winter jackets produced by casual brands; padded jackets accounted for 25.3%, leather jackets 12.6%, and other jackets 8.7%. Thus, data showed that padded jackets accounted for a considerable proportion of overall winter jacket production. Based on the wearing test results, the basic measurements of a padded jacket for women in their 20s were as follows: bust girth of B/4+3cm front length and B/4+3.5cm back length; waist girth of W/4+3.1 cm front length and W/4+1.9cm back length; and hip girth of H/4+3.3cm front length and H/4+2.8cm back length. The jacket length was set at 62.8cm, with a 63.8cm sleeve length. This study concluded that providing padded jacket manufacturers with basic pattern designs for a well-fitted jacket is expected to boost the efficiency of pattern design processes and the production of padded jackets.