• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.877-890
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• 2019

This study investigated the location of grading lines and grading amount defined by 17 women's wear brands for a pants item by target age groups (20-30, 30-40, and 40-50). This study utilized 6th Size Korea data and a script-based on a 3D scan measurement program to analyze the increase rate of body size in order to suggest a grading deviation distribution ratio for the pants using regression analysis. This study found that most brands appropriately divided grading amount at front thigh girth and back hip girth into the side and center by 1:1. Most brands divided the grading amount at the front hip girth into the side and center by 1:1; however, the ratio found from Size Korea is 0.8:1.2 for the 20-30 age group, 0.7:1.3 for the 30-40 age group, and 0.6:1.4 for the 40-50 age group. Regarding the back thigh girth, the brands targeting 20-30s, 30-40s, and 40-50s respectively assigned the grading amount into the side and center by 1:1, 1:1.2, and 1:1.3. However, the ratio found from Size Korea is 1.4:0.6 for the 20-30 age group, 1.7:0.3 for the 30-40 age group, and 1.3:0.7 for the 40-50 age group. The results can be utilized in improving the grading system of the pants item.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.158-175
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to understand and improve the clothing habits and the apparel industry of North Korea in preparation for the reunification of South and North Korea. For this study, literary data, reports, periodicals, interviews and internet data of the two Koreas were reviewed. North Korean clothing habits used to be monotonous and uniform but nowadays people's clothes have become somewhat brighter in color and more diverse in design than before. In particular, liberal and individual dressing habits appeared among the privileged classes. When taking part in national events, women have to wear the traditional Korean costume, Hanbok, while men wear business suits for formal wear. In general, men don't wear Hanbok. Students have to be in uniforms but blue jeans, T-shirts with English logos were popular among them reflecting their sensitivity and openness towards western cultures. The brides usually wear pink Hanboks and the bridegrooms wear black business suits for their wedding. North Koreans also wear Hanbok on national holidays like South Koreans. Clothing is the most important item in the trade of process commission between North and South Korea. Trading items are mid to low end men's clothing for the most part due to less emphasis on fashion in the North. The processing is indirect trade and composed of sample making and contracting, sending out materials and production, carrying in goods and setting accounts. To activate South-North trade, establishment of infrastructure, stabilization of shipping, reducing high costs of distribution, building direct communication system by setting up office in a neutral zone and simplifying procedures in applying for the South and North Korea Economic Cooperation Fund. On the other hand, clothing and textiles education is carried on at art colleges, light industries colleges and commercial colleges in Pyongyang. Clothing institutes which study Hanbok and Western clothes, are installed in each city and province. Graduates who majored in clothing and textiles are posted in institutes or apparel factories. Their job is designing, patternmaking and sewing for their customers. Most of them are women and in good state of economic conditions. The North Korean clothing industry has been the core national industry that has developed based on overseas demand form the mid 1980s. The standard is that of South Korea in the early 1980s. In 1999, trade of North Korean textile products with trade counterparts such as Japan and China was $1.3 million in exports and $1.27 in imports. Of this amount the export takes up 25.4% of the total exports in North Korea. However, fundamentally even in sectors that are irrelevant to politics such as the fashion clothing industry, trust between the South and North should be a prerequisite. Only through this can exchange between North and South and economic cooperation contribute towards the reunification.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.124-135
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• 2000

This research investigated the difference in fabric preference over formal wear attire of 1999 Spring/Summer season between Korean and American female consumers. 25 Korean and 25 U.S.A. fabrics were used as fabric samples, and the respondents for the survey included 50 Koreans and 50 Americans in the 20s and 40s age groups. All six population groups showed similar dislike rankings toward the total fabrics (n=50). When the Korean fabrics and the U.S.A. fabrics were considered separately, the 20s and 40s age groups, especially between Korean 20s and Korean 40s, showed significant similarities in the dislike rankings. When the dislike preferences between Korean fabrics and U.S.A. fabrics were examined for different population groups, all the groups showed somewhat similar dislike rankings and in all cases U.S.A. fabrics were disliked more than the Korean fabrics. The most apparent difference in the physical characteristics of disliked fabrics was observed in jabric color. The Americans, especially the 40s age group, disliked fabrics with dark compound colors, whereas the Koreans in all age groups dislike fabrics close to bright pure colors.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.19-33
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• 2002

In the middle of economic and mental riches in the 21st century, the importance of well being and the pursuit of happiness are emerging as the new trend. Thus the lifestyle that values comfortable and practical naturalness and intrinsic merits has come to influence the human life rather than the old showing-off and formal desire. In addition to this, the spread of the five day week has given more leisure time, which has led to the increasing interest in health and leisure. The interest in sports has skyrocketed since the successful holding of the 2002 Korea and Japan World Cup event. All these changes to the lifestyle have contributed to the fusion of luxury wear and sports wear. As the result of the consumers in the 21st century having more classified and upgraded way of living thanks to the settlement of the above-mentioned lifestyle and the enlargement of the leisure sports culture, there has appeared the wellness kin, who value the importance of life and the nature and believe in the idea that they can reconstruct the environment in the way they can enjoy their lifestyle and pursue happiness. They favor healthy fashion items and think much of exercise, nutrition, and rest. They pursue the natural and comfortable style, whose ideas came from simple exercises such as health training and yoga and the easy and comfortable look observed at resorts. Their fashion style can be divided into three of fitness fashion, yoga fashion and resort fashion. First, the boxer fashion is characterized by the relaxing design and practicality. The major items of the fashion include running shirt-styled upper clothes, training pants, hooded shirts and sneakers. Simple and comfortable look should be induced from the combination of the items. Second, the yoga fashion was motivated by the comfortable yoga wear. It advocates stress-free spirit and comfortable and stable naturalism. Along with the advantages of the good feeling to wear and the functionality to help exercise better, the yoga fashion gives the wearer enough room to move around in, using the unique lines. Third, the resort wear refers to the kinds of clothes you tend to wear at the beach and the park. There are various kinds of the resort look; bathing suits, the beach wear you can wear with the bathing suit, the resort evening wear, the full-side look that you try on top of the bathing suit and is made of the same material of the bathing suit, and the marine look, the symbol of the summer. In short, the study attempted to investigate many trends occurring as the result of human recent increasing interest and concern in the quality of life, and the impacts of them on the fashion world. This kind of research that examines the background of the times and society will help to grasp with the fashion trends of the present and the future. And more studies should be conducted on the development of new and original design in clothes fashion, which reflects the characteristics identified in this kind of research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.5
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• pp.641-655
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• 2015

This study examined the ideal image and fashion of Korean women in the 1970s from a socio-cultural context. This study used information on the 1970s politics, economy, and culture provided by "Chosun Ilbo" and "Yosungjungang" as well as their presentation of the ideal image and fashion for Korean women in the 1970s. The ideal image and fashion of women were considered from the viewpoint of Hamilton's Meta-theory. The ideal image of women in the 1970s is divided into two aspects. The image from the traditional Confucian perspective was prevalent and restricted the lives of women to housekeeping chores. On the contrary, women have increasingly participated in society vis-$\grave{a}$-vis education and employment opportunities to present a progressive image of women. These aspects coexisted during the turmoil of social change. Progressive women had money to buy clothes because they were economically independent. These women embraced styles that included mini, midi, maxi, and bell-bottom pants. Further, pants were developed into different styles such as pant suits. T-shirts and blue jeans as casual wear were very popular among the youth. At the end of the 1970s, the tailored look and the big look (which copied men's clothing) were in fashion. Masculine styles such as wide shoulders with pads and neckties strengthened gender equality. Other fashions were dominated by feminine styles described as beautiful, sweet, and elegant that reflected Korean society's tendency to regard women as sex objects. Clothing that exposed the body highlights this sexual objectification aspect. Women wore miniskirts, hot pants, and bikinis because they wanted to enhance their sex appeal, propagating the view of women as sex objects. In conclusion, all aspects of society and culture were closely interrelated with a fashion style that reflected the values of those aspects.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.60-68
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• 2002

Fashion has been affected by the change of periodic conditions. A good example is found in the relationship between fashion and periodic conditions before and after World War I in the U.S. During the pre-wartime, the artificial silhouette achieved through using devices like the corset was popular and then women's dresses were very decorative and gorgeous using a wide variety of details. S-curved silhouettes and Paul Poiret's style will be reviewed as distinctive shapes of pre-war fashion in the beginning of the 20th Century. Through the war, women's rights improved enormously, the use of the automobile increased tremendously, and various kind of sports, the movie industry and ready-to-wear market developed very much. Women's clothes also changed to be much more practical and functional in post-war fashion. It seems that fashion is affected by the change of periodic conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.119-132
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• 2008

This study intended to develop and produce a modern form of fashion design for the Korean creative dance performance, 'Crazy Skirt Collage', which expressed conflict between internal ego and a persona in a woman. The qualitative method was used to analyze literature review, internet search and visual data of historically important cases related to the theme. Based on the analysis, the fashion design of the dance performanre by Hwang Hee-Yeon that was actually staged on Towol Theater, one of the Seoul Arts Center, was produced. The results wire as follows; First, the study confirmed a change of persona that revealed a female's animus strongly as it moved into the modern time. Second, the female's persona was expressed through long skirts, slips, dress shoes, handbags, military shoes, dresses with long zippers, trousers, wedding dresses and Korean full skirts during the performance, while the female's animus through male coats, panties, big bags and clock. In conclusion, it is necessary to study new expressive methods, that is, dance clothes using advanced equipment such as lights, videos or other variety of materials. It is also important to understand aesthetics of modern women's ordinary lives and to adapt ordinary clothes to dance clothes in various methods in order to express their modern lives appropriately through Korean creative dance.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.157-169
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• 2012

The aim of this study is to serve as a stepping stone to outlook changes in men's fashion based on gender characteristics and the design proposal as a reference to shirts design for men's wear brands. This study is a theoretical work extracted from related books, dissertations, and web- resources referenced. Research method is as followed. It is based on the four main collections from S/S 2001 to S/S 2010 and selected designer brands among the most influential foreign men's fashion designer brands which have show cased their collections of 19 seasons in the last 10 years. These are what the study has found out. Firstly, the shoulder-line which used to be straight and hard in men's dress shirt has changed to comfortable curved line which falls from the shoulder to sleeve. Silhouettes were mainly shaped to an hourglass or slim silhouette representing the body curve line. Unlike how the masculine beauty was emphasized through the straight line, men's dress shirts nowadays used curved line for softness. Secondly, there were various designs with decorations added to the basic structure, making it no different from women's blouse and blurring the line between men's and women's fashion. Thirdly, colors were normally in bright ones. Tones were often in pale tone which used to be the women's color. Also choosing shades of yellow or red was a remarkable change in men's wear. Fourthly, through varying patterns and texture there were many shirts that gave clear visual effect. There were approximately equal portions of patterns with feminine image like natural patterns, abstract patterns, or small patterns and patterns with masculine image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.4 s.57
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• pp.589-603
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• 2005

This study was to develop the design of briefs for elderly women, aiming at understanding about the briefs that the elderly women currently wear and helping them draw happiness from wearing clothes. This study, based on the data analyzing the physique of old women that was investigated by the previous study, targeted the elderly women living in Jeonbuk area to conduct the research into their physique, brieff that they prefer. The results of this study were as follows. First, the majority of the elderly women wore size 100 as looking into the size of briefs that elderly women put on and their physique. For the most part, they had relatively thinner waist compared to the belly and buttock. Second, they were found to have preference for briefs with narrow rubber band, and medium sized design that fit their line of buttock, waist and crotch, for reasons of the activity and comfort. Third, they were found to be generally happy with the briefs that they are currently wearing. Fourth, the factors leading elderly women to buy briefs were analyzed to come from the 4 considerations of beautiful appearance/customer service, practicality, economical reason/size and the comfortable feeling when wearing them. Among such factors, the greatest demand among those factors was the comfortable feeling they can have when they wear briefs, followed by the economical reason/size, practicality, beautiful appearance/customer service.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.391-404
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to identify the consumers' demands on functional design of sports climbing pants. Data were collected through a field survey. 82 male and 70 female amateur sports climbers in Seoul participated. The questionnaires measured aspects of functional design in sports climbing pants, specifically motion adaptability, comfort and aesthetic value of the climbing pants. The results of this study show that comfort during climbing postures was the most important value of the climbing pants. The subjects sought motion adaptability at the hip, crotch, thigh and knee. The preferred style and degree of fit of climbing pants were differed according to gender. Men preferred loose or semi tight fit style climbing pants but women preferred the leggings style of the sport pants. The soft touch seam line and body shaping function were also important for women. The type of pants preferred for sports climbing also differed by the climbing experience period. Men began to wear the outdoor mountaineering style pants when they had experienced sports climbing for 6 months and to wear the climbing expert style pants when they had experienced sports climbing for a year. Most women wore leggings style sports pants from the beginner stage. This study also analyzed Korean market trend in 2016~2017 F/W for sports climbing pants design. The men's pants were more likely to be designed to improve mobility compared to the women's pants, even though the aesthetic value of the sports climbing pants was important for women.