• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.49-63
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of modular design observed in Korean traditional clothing. Modular design, which is one of the noticeable characteristics of modern fashion design emerged in the 20th century. This study analyzed the Korean traditional culture to investigate the characteristics that show similarities to the modular system in design. A traditional Korean house is composed of small structures called 'chae'. A traditional Korean building is composed of a basic unit space called 'kan', and the rooms are divided and recombined. Korean traditional interior design shows furniture, bedding and art works that could be used, folded then stored. Korean cuisine is served in combination with small dishes. Korean letters are combined in square shaped form to make writing and printing easy. Korean traditional clothing has a way of washing where clothing are disassembled, washed and then re-stitched. The pattern pieces are made to be rectangular shaped so that the fabric pieces can be kept in shape during washing. The rectangular shaped pattern pieces can be replaced and reused after washing. Tops and bottoms could be interchanged for color-coordination, because the shapes of the clothing were standardized. These features exhibit modular system in Korean traditional clothing design. Modular system design has common characteristics which have basic modules, pursue practical purpose, have interchangeability adapted to circumstances, and could be disassembled and re-combined. Korean traditional clothing illustrates different ways of practicing modular system, but has some common features to contemporary modular fashion design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to design Jugori model compatible with the body types of the middle-aged women especially from 40 to 59 years old. The result is as follows: We decided five items as the necessary items for designing jugori model : the bust girth (the breast & shoulder width), the B.P length, the neck width, the armhole circumference, and Hwa-jang. The breast & shoulder width are the size that comes out if the bust is divided by the breast & shoulder width on the basis of the side line, and Hwa-jang is a length measured with arms stretched out to 0° direction. With each person's physical characteristics considered, the application of the size of each body types and body parts is as follows: 1. The breast & shoulder width (1/4 portion) : We decided B/4+2cm as a standard size and, we adjusted the extra room on the basis of the discrepancy between the breast width and the shoulder width to make it fit well to the each body type. For the breast width (1/2 portion), we bisected the difference between the breast width and the shoulder width of the bust, and moved Gut-sup to the center of the Sup and Sup-sun for An-sup. According to the body type, the movement of the Sup for the people with big breasts gets bigger because there should be a big difference between the breast width and the shoulder width for them, and for the people with small breasts the movement will be relatively smaller. For the shoulder width (1/2 portion), we curved the back center line after we shortened as much as the difference between the amount of the shoulder width/2+1cm and of B/4+2cm. The movement of back center line will be bigger for a person with leaned-backward body type. 2. The front & back length: We made the front length to B.P length+2.5cm to have Jugori cover the breast point fully around the bust line, which is a vogue nowadays. For an upright body type, we decided the back length as (AH/2.2)+5cm. And for a bent-forward and a leaned-backward body type, we adjusted the calculation formulae differently taking the physical characteristics into account. We decided the back length (A) as (A.H/2.2)+5cm, and the front length (B) as the back length+5cm. So, (A+B) is the sum of the front length and the back length. Going back to the original formula, the front length is B.P+2.5cm. So, we can decide the back length if we subtract B.P+2.5cm from the sum of the front length and the back length. To make well-fit Jugoris, the front & back length are areas that we should pay attention to if we take each person's physical characteristics into consideration. 3. Go-dae (1/2 portion) : We decided Go-dae as the neck width/2+0.5cm. For an upright body type, because the base line which went down vertically from the tragion was straight, we generally decided Go-dae Dalim line as 1.0cm. But we decided Go-dae Dalim line down to 1.5cm for bent-forward type and up to 0.2cm for leaned-backward type because the upper half of the body of them was bent forward or leaned backward from the base line. 4. The armhole : We decided the armhole circumference as A.H/2+2cm with the whole extra room of 4cm. 5. The side line length : We can calculate the side line length to (the back length-the armhole)/2, and, in terms of the trend, 2.5cm will be appropriate.