• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.59-71
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• 2006

This study contemplates Croatian traditional costumes with focus on its geographical characteristics and acculturation with neighbor countries as a member of old Yugoslavian Union. Therefore, it contains the information from field works based on Croatian language, native costumes and folk materials wildly. Men usually wear wide linen pants ($ga\'{c}$), shirt ($ko\v{s}ulje,\;rnbina)$, vest (lajbek), hat and jacket ($kro\v{z}et$). Also they sometimes wear scarves or aprons. Women put on blouse, long skirt, apron, headgear with various decoration and scarf ($pe\v{c}a$), shawl (tibetui robe) or necklace together. Croatian folk dresses fall into three different styles by provinces, such as Pannonia, Dinar and Adria, according to the basic environmental and racial characteristics of each province. People of Pannonia plain generally wear white linen clothing and often use flounce and lace, which are influenced by Serbia and Hungary. In the Dinar mountain province, aprons with tassel, knitted vests made of leather and fur are very popular. The clothing of Dinar province has much commonness with those of Bosnia - Herzegovina and Montenegro which have metal buttons and belts. And the clothing of Adria coast is influenced by Italy a lot. There are many splendid silk clothes in its folk dress code. As mentioned above, there are a lot of foreign influences in Croatian history. Although there were severe cultural invasions in many times through its history, Croatians didn't just surrender to these cultural influences. People in Croatia comply with these new coming culture and reconcile these into their own tradition and dress code in their own way.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.577-584
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• 2005

The aims of this study are primary data offer to silver fashion enterprise. In order to deduce design from diverse needs of silver generation, this study is required expert knowledge. For this purpose, this study applied two rounded Delphi method in which 31 experts. As a result, the following findings were obtained; From the previous studies, we found the physical changes of women in silver generation; i.e. the size of their waist and abdomen gets larger, their breasts are sagging, their limbs are thinner, upper body is bending, their height and weight get shorter and lighter. Their choice criterion of design of clothing is hide their weak points in body, youthfulness, moderate, and fashion style. Youthful design but patterns should agree with their body line so that they should be easily fit and look young. They like a jacket and pants set best regardless of spring or summer and as upper garment, they like semi fit, as pants, they prefer straight line of ankle length, and as skirts, partial elastic band and pleats, and the length of the skirts just cover their knees. This pattern in choosing their clothes represents they consider functionality as well as the aesthetics. Their preferred color for spring is lt/pink, lt/violet lt/green for summer, white and blue. Their preferred materials are wool/poly/spandex and cotton/spandex for functionality for spring, and for summer, linen poly and cotton poly seersucker for cool feeling and stability. In both top and bottom item, solid pattern follows small one in their preference on patterns, which shows that they are in pursuit of an elegant style. Our research based on this survey tries to establish what the fashion design for the silver generation should take into consideration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2009

This study is to understand the characteristics of Korean Women's Jeogories in modern times on the changes of its color and coloration over the time. The research was that the characteristics of the costumes produced in modern times ($1890{\sim}2000$) can be categorized into six periods according to the change of times. 1106 women's Jeogories were researched intensively in order to understand them, the conclusions are following: When the Chi-Square Test is applied to conduct cross analγsis of the said six periods divided on the basis of relevant theories, it is found that there is just partial difference in the hues in1890-1959 while there has been a big change in the hues of all Jeogories since 1960. It also seems that such a sudden change In hues took place till the end of the 1970s but there have been no significant difference and no distinct changes in hues sin[e the 1980s. As for color tones, high luminosity and low chroma hues were mainly used in all periods, but low luminosity and high chroma hues have been frequently used since the 1960s. It indicates that the long-used conventional and traditional colors gave way to various colors which were freely applied according to the tendency of individualism In the selection of colors as well. As for the coloration, one-color arrangement was predominant in white clothes while the combination of main color Y and supplementary rotor R was overwhelming in two-color arrangement. After the 1960s, not just the five major rotors but diverse colors, including bluish green, dark blue, were used, even varied patterns for linings.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.670-687
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• 2014

This study focused on Jungchimak (coats with side slits) which was typically worn by men in the mid and late Joseon Dynasty. It was done research by examining the case of wearing Jungchimak centering on literature and paintings and analyzing its changes in terms of its form based on the relics that have been found in order to suggest the standard for the evaluation of the period of Jungchimak. Results are as follows. First, men who wore Jungchimak were the king, crown prince and Aristocratic under the official uniform or other robes or as ordinary clothes and shroud. Second, Jungchimak for king was mostly made of Dan (satin damask) and mostly jade green & navy in color, and it commonly used dragon pattern, cloud and treasure pattern, or grape pattern. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for crown prince was Dan & Ju (coarse-finished silk) and puple, green, jade green & navy in color. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for Aristocratic was Ju and indigo or white in color. Third, 251 relics have been announced until now. Most of them were made of silk fabric and had cloud and flower patterns. Fourth, Jungchimak showed changes through time in terms of collar and sleeve shapes, the ratio of armhole to sleeve opening, Geotseop (panel sewn on front opening for overlapping), Dang and Mu (side panel), the ratio of the total length of outer collar to the length of side slits, and the ratio of chest size to the width of lower end.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2016

Najang was the central Seori, affiliated to the Ministry of War during the Joseon dynasty. The objective of this study is to research the existing authentic Najang costumes from the late-Joseon dynasty by examining factors, such as the composition of the costume, size, and method of creation, and attempt to replicate it. The Leipzig Grassi Museum in Germany possesses an official uniform of Najang from the late-Joseon dynasty, and we visited the museum in May of 2013 to examine it for the study. Written records, or Uigwe, and other pictorial data from the Joseon Dynastry describe the Najang wearing black or navy clothing with white decoration and pointy hats. The most notable characteristic of the Najang uniform is that it has the cotton cords pattern. The hat has a brass ball attached, which was worn with the ball facing the front in the early Joseon Dynasty, and was worn facing the back in the later years. They usually wore black head cloths (Heuk-geon), but would attach feathers on the black hats (Heuk-rip) for special occasions. The Najang uniform preserved in the Leipsiz Grassi Muesim does not exist in Korea. It is made of cotton. The cotton cord pattern of the uniform of Najang was made using single-ply cords and double-ply cords. The hat worn by Najang is in a form of a cone that becomes narrower towards the top or is in a form with wide and open end. It was made of oiled paper covered with hemp, and two circular metal disks were attatched at the rear.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.53-62
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• 2009

Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1275-1287
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• 2006

This was to confirm the Web-SFAS and street Fashion trend 2005. Korea women's street fashion in 2005 S/S was analyzed by using the Web-SFAS(Street Fashion Analysis System) that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total 270 women who were sensitive to the fashion were surveyed around in 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone is shown as follows: 1. The sequence of care with most interest in producing fashionable shape is in the order of clothes>accessory>hair style>make up>shoes, and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone is to meet with friends than shopping. 2. Most preferred item for tops were shirts and T-shirts, while for bottoms were blue jeans of denim material in various colors and designs. The color had the clear winner in white color with the pink or yellow line of colors preferred in all commercial zones. The blue jeans and skirt items were the most dominant with the preference on the blue color. The color and image were diversely favored with light, natural, modern, elegance and warm images. 3. The semi-formal image was preferred in women's street fashion, 2005 S/S in Apgujeong-dong, Hapseong-dong, Myeong-dong, Hongik University area, Dongseong-ro, and the active comfort casual image was preferred by womens in Seo-myeon, Nampo-dong and Sangnam-dong. However the retro image were represented in Daehak-ro specially. The tendency of street fashion for women had the difference of their own trends for each commercial zone, rather then the regional differences for each city with the conspicuous preference of color for the items.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.269-279
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• 2005

Okso, Keun Seob($1671\sim1759$) was descended from a noble family of Noreun(노론) and learned from his uncle, Keun Sang-ha who is a disciple of Song Si-Yeol, Kim Chang-hyeub and Kim Chang-heub. His $\lceil$Oksoko$\rfloor$ remains in the form of a transcription or a lithographic printing, and documents on 'Hakchangeui' are recorded in jabeui(잡의), Euijedogi(의제도기), which is a part of it. He left Seoul in 1714, settled in Chungpung, journeyed to many places, including the Hwang river area and Jecheon and led a literary and artistic life as Sadaebu(사대부), which was written in a collection of his works where the record about 'Hakchangeui', the most suitable clothes for the life of a retired scholar remains today to express one part of his life. This study introduces data about Hakchangeui written in $\lceil$Oksoko$\rfloor$, pursues the reason why Okso, Keun Seob told about it and intends to embody the figure of Hakchangeui based on the system, measure, material, and sewing method according to the records in a collection. Hakchaneui described in $\lceil$Oksoko$\rfloor$ reveals a structure that is different from old Hakchaneui, showing characteristics like the following. It is a Sadaebu's costume for field amusement in which the length of a former part is longer than that of a later part and the side seam of a garment rips. Black Yeon is attached to the white texture. Yeon widths of Git(collar), Sugu and Gil are varied, respectively. Yeon's figure attached to Gil and Somaejindong is a mountain. Git is Bangryeong and link parts between Git and Gil is connected with Sangchim. This Hakchangeui is considered to playas a gown because it has no string or support to adjust his dress. Especially we can identify that Hwayanggun(화양건) was used in this Hakchangeui.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1009-1020
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• 2009

This study aims to express the androgynous image via shirts as a fashion item. Shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. As for the theoretical background, the study was reviewed previous studies of books, thesis, a series of publication, and the Internet sites on this topic. Through a careful analysis of these previous studies, it designed and made shirts that inspired by androgynous image. Conclusions of this study are as follows: First, the study found that meanings of symbolism in clothing continue to change, not fixed at all, depending on historic and cultural environments, and so does symbolism for femininity and masculinity of clothing. Second, shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. Third, two patters were used for the work in this study in order to emphasize its form, along with mono color white and stripe patterns. For materials, cotton and blend as a most basic material for a shirt were used with unique variations in the form. Fourth, decorative details or trimming such as ribbon tying methods, shirring, attaching in layers, and irregular pleading widely used for women's wear were applied, and silhouettes with strong drape feelings were used to add feminine feature to men' shirts, in an effort to propose a fashion design of the androgynous look. Fifth, clothes proposed in this study are different from feminine clothing item blouse, because they are androgynous shirts mixing masculinity and femininity. Stiff pads were used in collars and cuffs characteristics of men's traditional shirts to maintain masculinity of a shirt, and design was developed by adding feminine decorative elements, which is different from women's blouse.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.1061-1068
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• 2007

The study has sought to explore how fashion emerges as a comprehensive tool of dress for increasing its brand appeal and express one's artistic sense and fashion by using everything from make-up to hair to trappings. Therefore, when it comes to fashion trends reflected in collections, the study is designed to improve understanding of make-up as one of the elements of total fashion and to help create diverse ideas in expressing creative and free make-up that can help perfect fashion concept in harmony with all the other elements. The study has pondered upon collection, trends and fashion make-up through literature study, and has gathered image data via the Internet. It also has conducted analysis of Ethnic style reconstructed combining past and the future, East and the West, and futurism style using asymmetrical forms without no defined patterns and hi-tech textures, which emerges as a result of post-modernism. The results of the study are as follows. Ethnic fashion that pursues strange and exotic beauty is characterized by its simple and idyllic images of traditional costume in Asia or primitive clothes in Africa. Make-up represent images of matt and pale skin, tanned yellow, glossy and thickly powered squeaky white skin. Point make-up highlighted eye lines, red chick, small and voluptuous red lips. Hair and accessory seeks diversity combining various ethnic styles together such as oriental, Indian, Islam and Africa. In addition, future-oriented fashion of the 21st century, twists in texture, various kinds of materials and changes in technique help give impressions of freedom and bizarreness.