• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.38-59
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• 2011

This study is based on the periodical discourse of women and their costumes, described in modern novels that were published from late 1890s to the 1930s. New cultural phenomena emerged among Korean women in the period of modernization. In particular, rapid increase of jobs for women and preference for western female body shape are very noticeable phenomena that can be observed in novels of the 1930s. In addition, the symbolic meanings of female costumes are variously described in modern novels according to the periodical and spatial environment and jobs for women. The symbolic meanings are organized as 'Trophysm, Expression of sexuality, Liberation from male-dominated society, Symbolic difference between rural and urban areas, Vanity, Decadence, Mechanism tending to hide and Change of values'. And women's costumes kept changing in the boundary of 'Confliction, Coexistence and Harmonization' of traditional and western costumes. 'Confliction' phenomenon got emerged in novels published between 1900 and 1910. The resistance on traditional costumes that restricted woman's life got spread. But western female costumes as a symbol of new culture could not be generalized but accepted as high fashion. 'Coexistence' phenomenon was appeared in novels of the 1920s. At that time, the modernization for traditional costumes by female students was emerged along with trendy fashion. Also, the frequency of using western fashion items was increased in the Korean society. Therefore, it shows that western costumes in the Korean society became popularized in the coexistence with traditional costumes. 'Harmonization' phenomenon was emerged in novels of the 1930s. In the novels, the emergence of western female costumes, personal preference items, and westernized hair style implies that western costumes were absorbed into the Korean society that had kept traditional costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.110-124
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• 2015

This study examined a phenomenon of exaggerated hairstyle in the history of Western custom through publications related with Western costume and research papers. By adopting the criteria of Delong, M. R. to analyze visual forms shown by interaction between human body and costume worn over the body, it analyzed the formative characteristics by the interaction between hairstyle and costume. In addition, it inferred the aesthetic characteristics through content analysis of examined phenomenon focusing on socio-cultural background and costume socio-psychological precedent studies. Formative characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle applied by analysis criteria of Delong, M. R. were in pursuit of the emphasis style. This was clearly and intensively recognized by forming spaces for mostly closure style, part style, three dimensional style, determinate style, and space separation style. Regarding the interaction between hair and ornamentations, 'precedence of ornamentation' was pursued as ornamentations were recognized earlier than the hair itself. It means associative meanings of the surface effect were accompanied by emotions of 'intensiveness' and the pursuit of the attractive style. As for the interaction between hairstyle and costume, there were many cases of pursuing 'continuity' mutually and visually by connecting the hairstyle and the costume. Aesthetic characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle were inferred as 1) the expression of the sprite of the age(i.e. art, culture, politics, society, ideology, religion), 2) symbols of wealth, class, authority, and excellence, 3) pursuit of addicted desire to ornament, and 4) harmony through continuity with costume. This study verified that hairstyle was connected as a part of costume, or formed as a way to express deeper human psychology beyond just a part of a costume. It was also confirmed that hairstyle was an expressive method to express the spirit of the age, such as art, culture, society, religion, ideology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.149-162
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• 1997

In this paper it was observed that the influences of social environment that had been saturated by the modern awareness and west-ern culture effected largely on clothing. Also it was studied how and by what en-vironmental factors the costume during the enlightening period was accepted and devel-oped in Korea relative to social cultural en-vironment. In this research the emphasis was placed on the process of changing to western clothing especially the influence of Group Clothing on the general women's clothing. Therefore the types of group clothing and its influences were studied. in this study the types of group clothing recalled were modern women's clothing mission-ary women's clothing professional women's such as nurse uniforms school girls' uniforms and the invention of women's sports wear. And lastly it was searched for the direction of developent in apparels. From the above mentioned we can conclude that the clothing is inseparable from social and cultural Invironments and foreign affairs of politics at the time. Also it is considered that the types of group styles were the necessary happenings in the early stage of modern so-ciety. Because of historical situation in Korea the western clothing style had taken place in a short period of time. however Korean women's clothing which had been centerred around group clothing was considered to have changed from Korean traditional costume to western clothing by rational decisions of modern awareness in-stead of sudden change from traditional clothing to western clothing by indiscrete acceptance of western culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.123-137
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is contemplating and substantiating Korean Empire's court costume through relics and photos. Additionally, the meaning of the pattern of Mugunghwa as the national symbol in the court costume is considered. The results of this study are following. First, a phased introduction of western-style court costume was executed through Ulmi Reformation in 1895 and Court Costume Rule in 1900. U1mi Reformation was characterized by transitional reformation because newly introduced system and traditional costume consolidated in costume. Under Court Costume Rule, however, by accepting western-style on contemporary costume, modernized style was settled in every respect of form and matter. The court costume comprised bicorn, coat, vest, pantaloon, sword, sword belt, white collar and white gloves at audience with the Emperor. Second, by examination of the relics of Chigimgwan and Juimgwan, it was confirmed that the court costume was manufactured in foreign countries such as France and Russia on the basis of order. It was also identified by pictures that court costume was worn by diplomats dispatched. Third, the pattern of Mugunghwa in court costume was featured by embroidery of 6 petal pattern. And the pattern of Mugunghwa, as national symbol, has important meaning in view of history and national affection, while Japanese and European adopted the crest of the royal household. In summary, Korean Empire proclaimed modernized court costume institution to handle international relationship driven by West. It was uneasy reformation in adopting western court costume imported from overseas because its textile and style were completely different from traditional costume. However, the willingness of Korean Empire should be reevaluated in the history of Korean costume, in that Korean Empire established court costume proclaimed its sovereignty domestically and overseas, and that the pattern chosen as national symbol was that of Mugunghwa which is current national flower.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.147-164
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• 2000

This thesis examines the origin, the change and the symbolic meanings of class representation, and offers a comparative study on the differences of class representation in the history of Korean and western costume on the basis of class representation methods and types shown from ancient times to 18C. In both eastern and western costume, the differences in status are commonly represented in the width and length of costume, color, textile, ornamental design, wearing, decoration, etc. The costume of noble class was wide and long, while that of common class was narrow and short so that it could be convenient for them to move around. Especially, from 16C to 18C in the west the costume of noble class was expanded to the extent that it was inconvenient for them to move around not only by skirt swelling by using hoop, but also by pad, ruff, lace, etc. This appears to show that they are not working class. Wearing and decoration of noble class were much more colorful, complicated and varied, while those of common class were simple and plain. In the west, the wearing of chiton and toga in Greece and Rome was different depending on social status. More specific look at the differences in class representation shown in the eastern and western costume reveals that the higher the rank, the more the women in both Gothic and Chosun period covered the body, thereby representing rank. In 18C, the women in both Rococo and Chosun period commonly showed excessive decoration and lavishness on their hair, and in this period the width of skirt was also commonly expanded to the longest extent, with a slight difference put aside.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.123-131
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• 1998

This research was investigated the improved changes of Korean traditional costume after introducing the western costumes in this society. For this study microfilms of Chosun llbo, the popular newspaper since 1920s, and costume magazines for 1950s and 1960s were examined. The periods of the improved changing of Korean traditional costume were divided by the characteristics of qualitative and quantitative changes. Those were two, such as passive period and active period of change. At passive period, the change was not far from the original from of traditional costume and it was limited to the waist of skirt, length and width. But at active period, there was distinctive change from the previous period. Active period is divided by 2 sub-period again. In 1950s, the concept of darts of western costume was accepted to Korean costume and there was the western clothing for everyday costume, the characteristics of Korean costume were added to the base of the western clothing. It was named 'Arirang dress'. Original Korean costume had worn for special occasions since late 1950s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.8
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• pp.15-27
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• 1984

A costume study is a part of the cultural history and also has the greatest relation to life's senses as a concrete culture. Korean costume that consists a double structure with Chinese one through Chosun Dynasty five hundred years, has recently changed up to the Western Form. In this respect Korean Costume has a important meaning in relation to Western costume. Traditional costume, generally speaking, has tendency to keep up by the common people than the higher classes. Then there were four classes. They are aristocratic classes common people, those who are engaged in the form, industry, trade and low classes. Merchant of them partially took charge of the cultural exchange about contacting with tradition and new one. Because it's easy to flow in one's character the new civilization. So there is an important significance to research of the merchant's costume in Gae Hwa Gi changing age of civilization in politics, economic, and social system. The records appeared about the merchant's costume in the age of civilization through literature study and natural photo at that time.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.181-198
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• 1993

The study is to analyze modesty of clothing motive of western costume during the 6∼12 th and 17th pilgrim's revolution period by Flugel's theory. these society of tow period maintained the moral and ascetic life under he control christianity and pilgrim. This study utilized terms of Freud's theory on human personality in defining the characteristics of periods. Two periods is to define as Super-ego period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.289-310
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• 1995

The present study aims at investigating the style change of the Korean women's traditional costume and analyzing its character in accordance with the social changes during the period from the civilization in 1884 to the present. The design of the tranditional costume which might be formed in the era of the Three Kingdoms had been slowly modified, and the Korean jacket and skirt design was settled in the Chosun period. In the end of the Chosun period, the drastic social changes such as civilization and revolution, together with the introduction of western dresses, affected strongly the traditional costume design. This led to a change from the old dress design to the stylish and practical one because civilized women and high school girls wore the modified costume composed of long jacket and short skirt or western style dresses. In recent years after 1960's Korean women usually wore traditional costumes as ceremonial dresses be-cause the western style dresses replaced the tra-ditional costume in everyday life. After 1970's, however, the A-line silhouette, combined with ornaments, adapted to the traditional costume in order to emphasize women's beauty, thereby resulting in remarkable modification in the tra-ditional costume. In those days, the large pro-duction of various textiles such as nylon and tetron and the appearance of the traditional costume designers played an important role in developing beautiful traditional costume designs and bringing closer together with general public women. These recent design changes might be classified generally by the following three stages ; (1) "the period of settlement" (1965 1975), (2) "the period of maturity" (1976 1985), and (3) "the period of stabilization" (1986 1995). The costume design of each period was discussed and compared in detail according to historical events. From this study, inherent beauty of the Korean traditional costume can be recognized again, and clarified its position as our folkdress. It is also suggested that in future its modification should be achieved continuously in accordance with tra-dition and modern sense.h tra-dition and modern sense.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.36-37
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• 2002