• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.121-133
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• 2004

This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.941-955
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• 2003

In this study, the researcher investigated how tailored garment were accepted and developed in India where the traditional costumes, such as Sari and Dhothi, excluding the tailored process, were mainly worn. It is suspected that pants and coats were first introduced during the Kushan Dynasty but they scarcely influenced on the costumes of India. In the 7th Century when Islam made its entrance in India, pants and coats were not accepted in India due to the exclusive attitudes of Indians, Hindu. Pants and coats were worn locally as Indian costumes through the Islamic Mughul Empire in the 16th Century. During that period, the cultural exchange between Islam and Hindu made the change of the clothes of India reflected the mixing of Islamic and Hindu elements. The colonization of India by Great Britain that was the turning point for diverse kinds of tailored garment in the costume history of India inasmuch as western elements were introduced. The western style tailored method and design changed the appearance of Indian pants into slimmer style. The style spread and influenced on the design of indian clothes greatly; hence, western style shirts and coats were accepted in India.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.137-156
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze types of roles and fashion of the Chinese first ladies and provide basic data for fashion image-making of first ladies. As for the research methods, the concepts, role types, and fashion of the first ladies were considered by referring to the precedent studies and relevant literature. Then, the fashion images according to role types were analyzed by collecting the photos of Chinese first ladies from the period of the Republic of China until today. The results were as follows: First, when the roles of Chinese first ladies were categorized based on ceremonial, political, and policy roles, Zhuo Lin and Wang Yeping played a ceremonial role; Wang Guangmei, Liu Yongqing, and Peng Liyuan played a political role; and Soong Qingling, Soong Mayling, and Jiang Qing played a policy role while they were first ladies. While the first ladies of the Republic of China often wore classic Chinese styles like traditional qipao as well as western clothes which contained a western influence, the first ladies of the People's Republic of China wore more colorful clothes and more accessories in the later period, and also often wore clothes that combined traditional and western elements. Second, first ladies who played a ceremonial role showed mannish and classic images; those who played a political role showed elegant, classic, and diverse images according to T.P.O; and those who played a policy role showed feminine, modern, and mannish images. Fashion images of the first ladies varied according to the level of political involvement, the sociocultural background of China at that time, and their personality and preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제44권2호
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• pp.237-254
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• 2020

In this study, we analyzed the images of women in Korean society through the female body expressed in nude paintings from Korea. The study included a literature study and a case study. Through prior research, we examined the history of nude paintings in Korea and the way people conceptualized the female body in Korean society. The case study focused on nude paintings of Korean artists, produced since 1910, when Western painting concept was first introduced to Korea. The social perspective of the female body in Korea was categorized into the three concepts: Eros, Motherhood and Power. Next, we examined the role of drapery and clothes in expressing these three concepts. Drapery and clothes played active roles in hiding and emphasizing the female body, showing the psychology of a woman or the artist's intention, showing the entire mood of the work, and giving three dimensional feeling and elegance to the work. We could see that the role of clothes changed from expressing a virtuousness in the past to stimulating a voyeuristic gaze in the present.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.140-159
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• 1994

Heraldry, which originated from the culture of knights in the 12th century, came to be drawn on shields, and was inherited as a symbol of the family at the end of the 12th century and developed rapidly through the 13th and 14th century. Afterwards heraldry was in great vogue and used in the shields, clothes of men and women, armors, housings and flags. Therefore the citizen class as well as nobles and knights came to possess heraldry. In particular parti-color and impaled coat were accepted in the clothes, and served the dual purpose of status symbol and ornament in the 13th century. It can be said that the appearance of heraldry on the clothes was typical of the Middle Ages. The origin, generally accepted, was that the crusaders wore the surcots, also known as the cyclases, on the armors to prevent the powerful sun of Syria and dust of deserts, and to prevent the armors from rusting due to moisture. As the surcot was made of white linen or white silk till the beginning of the 13th century, knight's heraldry came to be put on the surcot in order to identify each corps. According as the coat of mail covering all the body was devised, the same heraldry attached on the shield seemed to appear on the clothes of surcot or jupon(afterwards pourpoint) in order to identify the status in the battlefield and tournament. Heraldry, a system of mark in the 12th century, was used as a symbol of authority of the upper class such as the Royal House, nobles and knights, and may have been mysterious instruments in the Milddle Ages. However, in the modern times of the 20th century heraldry has come to be a kind of symbol marks such as badges and banners symbolizing the hallmark of the goods of enterprises, organizations and groups. Heraldry, existing up to now, of the individuals as well as international organizations can be seen as a result of deep-rooted tradition for esthetic appreciation and symbolism for heraldry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.117-124
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• 1978

The costume, considered as a manner of clothing, represents the distinctive character of a country, of an epoch, of a personage; and always it mirrors the vicissitudes of human civilization. It is interesting to study the costume of ancient Western Asia, its civilization and culture were transmitted to Egypt and Greece. The results obtained are as follows: 1. Loin clothes, tunics, wraps were in Western Asia. 2. Sleeves and Trousers has been the great contribution to costume. 3. The Art of dyeing, weaving, and embroidering were well known. 4. Tassels and Fringes were used in Western Asia. 5. Egypt and Greece were affected by Western Asia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.231-250
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• 2014

This study considers types of design expression and examines aesthetic characteristics by analyzing images shown on clothes worn by Korean First Ladies. This study is to accumulate a fundamental database for the effective style coordination for images of First Ladies and future directions of clothing design. The types of design expression on the clothes of Korean First Ladies are as follows. First, in terms of silhouette, H line and A line is generally represented on the silhouette of clothes; in addition, the H line is highly expressed on the silhouette. The keyword of images by design types are generally feminine, elegant on the silhouette of First Ladies' clothing, and represented a progressively more modernized image on the silhouette. Second, in terms of color, it is expressed diverse images on the color of First Ladies' clothing, and exceptionally the tendency of elegant image is highly charged on the color of clothes. This sort of tendency is influenced by the preferences of First Ladies; subsequently, most First Ladies wear their clothes with a high brightness and chroma. Third, in terms of materials, the image of elegant and simple is highly expressed through First Ladies' clothes and it is caused by choosing the clothes of a plain texture rather than a visible and fancy one. The aesthetic characteristics based on an analysis of the types of design expression on the clothes of Korean First Ladies are as follows. First, 'femininity' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed by A line silhouette of a feminine curve and decorative effects. Second, 'simplicity' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed on the H line silhouette of a straight figure or through the solid colors of high chroma. Third, 'elegance' on First Ladies' clothes is represented on the silhouette of a restrained curve, long skirt hemlines, and woolen fabric with a neat, warm and soft coordination of colors. Forth, 'traditionality' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed through the application of materials and colors that influence culture, traditions, and detailed decorativeness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.728-738
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• 2006

As movies and dramas which show traditional clothes and fusion clothes are getting popular these days, lot of people are paying attention to these dress and ornaments. And as for the domestic collections which seem to reflect this trend, various fusion style clothes are getting widely adopted by people. Therefore, this study analyzed and considered the clothes designs when the country started to open itself to other countries, by selecting a movie titled "YMCA baseball team", a movie to ascertain vigorous historical verification, and by conducting the prior study and using the DVD capture program. This study is meaningful in that based on the comparison study on the costumes, it clarifies the degree of costumes(clothes) acceptance at the point of nation's opening to other countries, which is the source of fusion style, and further shed light on the role that the movie costumes will play. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, through the theoretical background it can be known that when the country opened itself to outside world the dress and ornaments of the time was adopted in a top-down way, namely, first adopted by the royal family and the upper class, which could have easy access to the western civilization and institutions, and then the low class later. Second, in the movie titled 'YMCA baseball team' the costumes were designed through the strict and thorough historic verification, and it can be confirmed that various dress and ornaments adopted at the time of nation's opening to the outside world centered around the clothes design for new women. Third, 'YMCA baseball team is evaluated as a movie that reproduces that time well and as a media that provides an effective clue to the dress and ornaments adopted by the public when the country opened itself to the outside world.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.113-131
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• 2014

This study aims to examine the background to the rise of Rei Kawakubo, a Japanese designer who achieved fame by suggesting the concept of deconstruction and recombination of clothes, and to look at environment of the time, the formative characteristics of her design and the Japanese aesthetic sense inherent in her design. As the method of research, collections that Kawakubo unveiled over the past 10 years starting in 2004 were examined, and a survey of the literature was conducted to describe the background of her growth and the Japanese aesthetic sense inherent in the design. According to the study, Kawakubo grew up in the ruins of a war, and went through a time of great tumult, when Western culture was mixing with Japan's traditional culture. She taught herself a method of creation involving the deconstruction of clothes, and their recombination. For this reason, her design from the beginning was inevitably focused on deconstructing clothes before they could be recombined. Through analyses of her collections, it was found that the formative characteristics of her design were characterized by asymmetry, incompleteness, humor and hybridity. Kawakubo created clothes under the influence of an ethnicity that was shrouded in individuality and a traditional aesthetic sense, and the formative characteristics of her design defined by asymmetry, incompleteness, humor and hybridity were closely related to the hybridity represented by Wabi (わび), Yugen (幽玄), Okashi (をかし) and Zakyo (雜居).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제46권5호
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• pp.890-909
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• 2022

This study explores the types of clothing imported from Japan during the port-opening era and investigates the characteristics of import trade related to these clothing products. This is a literature study based on trade statistics data and books on Western clothing published in Japan during the Meiji period. Research findings are as follows: clothing products imported from Japan were divided into 6 types: 1) clothing, 2) undergarments, 3) shirts, 4) waterproof coats, 5) European-style clothing, and 6) nightgowns. "Clothing" is a unified name for any kind of garment, appearing in import records only from 1877 to 1884. Undergarments and shirts were imported from 1884. Waterproof coats were imported only in 1886 and 1898. European-style clothing and nightgowns were imported from 1902. In the total import of clothes, the proportion of clothing was the highest (48.0%), followed by undergarments (41.3%) and shirts (10.6%), while the ratio of nightgowns and raincoats was almost 0%. During the port-opening period, the change in the import value of clothes did not show a continuous increase, but rather showed a large stepwise increase over the course of several years.