• Title/Summary/Keyword: weaving

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A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty (고려시대 사람들의 삶과 전통의상에 대한 고찰)

  • Choi Kyu-Seong
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.6 s.53
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    • pp.1060-1069
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    • 2004
  • We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).

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Study on Industrial Fatigue of Working Girls in a Spinning and Weaving Industry (근로여성과 산업피로에 관한 조사연구)

  • 김광자
    • Journal of Korean Academy of Nursing
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.87-96
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    • 1971
  • This Study was undertaken to evaluate the present health status and fatigue of the workers in T. Industrial Company in Pusan in Jan. 1971. The results were based on a question are from 354 working girls. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The largest portion of the workers, 20.2% of the questioned employees, were observed to lie at age 20. 2. Regarding their formal education, 76.0% of them had completed middle school. while only 7. 1% had graduated from high school, . 3. 63.0% receive 7-8 hrs. of sleep a day while 18.4% receive S-6 hrs. of sleep a day. 4. 36.4% spend leisure time reading: while 15.5% spend it resting and thinking. 5. 53.8% of them live in the company′s dormitory and 31.6% live at home. 6. Time spent in travel to work: 32.8% spent 40-49 min., 23.6% spent 10-29 min. 7. The shift times were reported as: 44.1% wonting from 8 A.M. to 4 P.M. and 33.9% working from 6. A.M. to 2. P.M. which is what they are doing now. 8. Regarding symptoms of fatigue: 1) Physical symptoms were: 48.3% complained of "feeling bean in the legs, ", and 39.3% complained of "general exhaustion. " 2) Psychological symptoms were: 37.6% said that "it is boring to talk"and 26.3% said" they had a desire to be alone". 3) Nitrogenic symptoms were 49.7% complained of "asthenopia"and 37.0% complained of"vertigo and "staggering legs". 9. When asked about the most fatiguing time during work, the following information was reported: 25.2% felt the first hour in the morning was most fatiguing while 22.9% felt the sixth hour in the evening, and 22.8% eelt the fifth hour at night was. 10. 38.4% complained of sleepiness at 3 A.M. and 35.0% at 4 A.M. during night work. 11. 38.1% found Sunday the most fatiguing work day and 20.% found Monday. 12. The results of the effects of their work on certain diseases: 51.1% showed those with anemia as most effected by work. 13. In their Response to the question, "do you eat breakfast\ulcorner"57.0%, the largest portion, answered, " none at all ": 36.3%, enough. 14. Regarding the accident rate relating to the length of time employed at the company 28.5% was the highest accident rate from 5year to 6 year. As a result of this study, it could be concluded that the employer should consider the following points: 1. employ according to the worker′s vocational aptitude. 2. adjust the shifts. 3. offer rest time and off days, and establish recreational facilities. In the end we can contribute to the promotion of the workers of the workers and to the prevention of accidents due to industrial fatigue.

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A Study of Geum Silk from Seokgatap in Bulguksa (불국사 석가탑 내 발견 금직물(錦織物) 고찰)

  • Sim, Yeon-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.3
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    • pp.137-151
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    • 2012
  • In 1966, $Seokgatap$ pagoda in $Bulguksa$ temple was damaged by the tomb robbers and was dismantled to fix the damage. In the process, many offerings to Buddha and containers for Sarira(the cremated remains) were found in $Sarigong$(specially designated space for the Sarira casket) inside the second floor of the pagoda. Many fabrics like $Geum$, $Neung$(twill), $Rha$(complex gauze), silk tabby and linen were also excavated. In this study, $Geum$ fabric from the $Seokgatap$ was closely examined. $Geum$ of $seokgatap$ is weft-faced compound weave according to the analysis of its weaving pattern which was wrongly presumed as warp-faced compound weave for some time. Technical analysis of $Geum$: Main: silk, Binding: silk, Proportion: 1 main warp to 1 binding warp, Count: 15 main warps and 15 binding warps per centimeter, Weft: polychrome silk without apparent twist, Colors: yellow, mustard yellow, deep blue, green and purple, Weave: weft-faced compound twill, 1/2 S. $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was made in the $8^{th}$ century, since it was weaved in weft-faced compound weave twill which was popular in the $8-9^{th}$ century. And also, the arrangement of the colors was done in the same way of gradation $Geum$ silk which was popular in the $7-8^{th}$ C in China and Japan. Third, we restored the pattern of $Geum$ of the Unified Shilla Dynasty for the first time. It was very difficult to figure out the shape and the size of pattern since the fabric was partially lost and ruined. We tried to draw the diagram of structure with the cross point of the warp and the weft to restore the pattern. By doing so, we could identify two kinds of small flower pattern, palmette and the pattern of repeating vines. Fourth, we could infer that the $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was used for $geumdae$(a pouch made of $geum$) by analyzing all the documents and the characteristics of the fabric.

Far-Infrared Emission Characteristics of Germanium Included Fabrics for Emotional Garment (게르마늄 함유 감성의류용 직물의 원적외선 방출 특성)

  • Kim, Hyun-Ah;Kim, Seung-Jin
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.13 no.4
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    • pp.687-692
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    • 2010
  • This paper surveys emission characteristics of Far-infrared of the fabrics fabricated with germanium imbedded sheath-core conjugate composite filaments. For this purpose, master batch chip was prepared with PET semi-dull chip and nano sized germanium particles and sheath-core type conjugate composite filament was spun using this master batch chip and polyester semi dull. The emission power and emissivity of the germanium imbedded fabrics were measured and investigated using FT-IR spectrophotometer by KICM- FIR 1005 measurement method. In addition, the fabric mechanical properties were measured and discussed with the effects of the optimum texturing process conditions and fabric structural design conditions. The sheath/core type PET composite germanium imbedded filaments were manufactured by the optimum spinning condition, its tenacity and breaking strain showed the same level as the regular PET filament. The tenacity and breaking strain of the DTY showed good physical properties and no problem in the weaving process. Then, wet and dry shrinkages showed higher values than those of regular PET filament. The emission power of the germanium imbedded fabric was $3.53{\times}10^2W/m^2$ at the $5-20{\mu}m$ wave length range, and emissivity was 0.874. The fabric hand of germanium imbedded fabrics was inhanced by the optimum texturing process and fabric structural design with improved mechanical properties such as fabric bending and compressional properties.

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Growth Suppression of Tomato Plug Seedlings as Affected by Material Type for Brushing Stimulation (브러싱 소재에 따른 토마토 공정묘의 생장억제)

  • Jeong, Hyeon Woo;Lee, Hye Ri;Hwang, Hee Sung;Kim, Eun Bin;Hwang, Seung Jae
    • Journal of Bio-Environment Control
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    • v.29 no.4
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    • pp.313-319
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    • 2020
  • This study was conducted to find proper material of brushing stimulation for height suppression of tomato plug seedlings. The tomato seeds were sown in 40-cell plug tray filled with commercial seedling medium and brushing stimulation was started at 18 days after sowing. Acrylic, polypropylene film, and weaving film were used by materials of brushing stimulation and, non-treatment and diniconazole treatment were used as the control. In acrylic treatment, the plant height was the shortest and the stem diameter was the thickest. Leaf growth was the lowest in diniconazole treatment. However, the SPAD value was the greatest in diniconazole treatment. The dwarf rate was the greatest in acrylic treatment. In acrylic treatment, the T/R ratio was the lowest and compactness was the greatest. In conclusion, use of the acrylic as material for brushing stimulation has higher dwarf rate than diniconazole treatment, and has advantages height suppression and seedling quality.

Performance of Convolution Coding Underwater Acoustic Communication System on Frequency Selectivity Index (주파수 선택 지표에 따른 길쌈 부호 수중 음향 통신 시스템의 성능 평가)

  • Seo, Chulwon;Park, Jihyun;Park, Kyu-Chil;Shin, Jungchae;Jung, Jin Woo;Yoon, Jong Rak
    • The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.494-501
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    • 2013
  • The convolution code(CC) of code rate 1/2 as a forward error correction (FEC) in Quadrature Phase Shift Keying (QPSK) is applied to decrease bit error rate (BER) by background noise and multipath in shallow water acoustic channel. Ratio of transmitting signal bandwidth to channel coherence bandwidth is defined as frequency selectivity index. BER and bit energy-to-noise ratio gain of transmitted signal according to frequency selectivity index are evaluated. In the results of indoor water tank experiment, BER is well matched theoretical results at frequency selectivity index less than about 1.0. And bit energy-to-noise ratio gain is also matched theoretical value of 5 dB. BER is effectively decreased at frequency selective multipath channel with frequency selectivity index higher than 1.0. But bit energy-to-noise ratio greater than a certain size in terms of CC weaving is effective in reducing bit errors. In the results, the defined frequency selectivity index in this study could be applied to evaluate a performance of CC in multipath channel. Also it could effectively reduced BER in a low speed underwater acoustic communication system without an equalizer.

Ch'ing Dragon Robes (청조의 용포소고)

  • 박춘순;김재임
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.3
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    • pp.59-72
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    • 2000
  • Dragon robe was defined as a robe on which the principal design consisted of dragon. Dragon patterns have been used on princess robes during T'and Dynasty. In Sung, Dragon-figured robes seem to have an Imperial prerogative. Yuan took over the use of robes with dragons patterns as a definite institition. Ming tried to reject all Yuan innovations, the dragon robe was retained as an unofficial court costume. The Emperor's semiformal robes which at first had four dragon medallions, later had twelve along with the 12 Symbols(십이장문). As Ch'ing dragon robes were only intended fro semiformal use. The Later Ch'ing robes date from after 1719, when the Ch'ien-lung(건륭) introduced 12 Symbols on Ch'ing robes. The Ch'ien-lung laws were disobeyed, notably the ones that specified the number of claws on the dragons. THe Emperor's dragon robe, lung-p'ao, (용포) was described as bright yellow in color, having four slits and horsefoof cuffs. The basic pattern consisted of nin dragons, in addition it had 12 Symbols. The elaborate textile techniques reached their peak in Ch'ing Dynasty-with its Weaving and Dyeing Office in Peking, and this factories at Hangchow(항주), Soochow(소주), and Naking(남경) -helps to explain why the decay of the Ch'ing bureaucracy hastended the decline of dragon robes. In the Ch'ing Dynasty tow terms were used for dragon robe, depending on the number of claws on the dragons. Those with five-clawed dragons were called lung-p'ao, while those with four-clawed dragons were called mang-p'ao(망포). The Court felt compelled to take corrective meausres. It decreeed that Ninisters of State and other officials, who had been bestowed five-clawed lung dragons, must take out one claw. Finally, the sale of ranks and the attendant privilege of wearing dragon robes gradually increased during the 18 th century, reaching its height in the 19 th century, Finally, after the Taiping Rebellion, when the Imperial Treasury was depleted by the wholesale destruction of revenue-producing lands, the Chinese government came to depend on such sales as an important source of revenue and the practice became even more widespread. The ensuing mass production of dragon robes, and the necessity of conforming to the fairly rigid basic pattern established in 1759, resulted in marked deterioration of workmanship, and a comparative monotony of decoration. The patterns on the dragon robes slight changes continued to be made in the ways of representign them. The li shui (입수) portion at the base of the robe become inreasingly wider throughout the 19th century. The background became cluttered with symbols of good fortune, scattered among the clouds and waves. As a result of all this extraneous decoration, the dragons were so crowded that they had to shrink back into the small size that they had originally occupied in the medallons. Kuang-hsu(광저) was a long one, allowing time for the manufacture of numerous robes. Also, it would seem likely that Occidental museums and collections would have a considerable number of his robes, in view of the widespread looting of his palaces during the Allied occupation of Peking in 1900, and the frequent sales of Late Ch'ing imperial textiles by destitute Manchu courtiers in the '20's.

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A Study on Textile Design of William Morris (월리엄 모리스의 텍스타일 디자인에 관한 연구)

  • 이경희
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.163-174
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    • 2001
  • William Morris(1834-1896) was the most versatile and talented of all British nineteenth century polymaths. Since his death over one hundred years ago his achievements as an artist, designer, manufacturer, shop-keeper, poet, author, publisher, printer, collector, teacher, conservationist, political activist and environmentalist have influenced the lives and work of people throughout the world. Moris is now best known for his attractive and colorful patterns. The decorating firm of Morris, Marshall, Fault & Company(Morris & Company after 1875) was established in 1861. Over the years it produced works, ranging from stained·glass windows and furniture to tapestries, carpets and printed and woven fabrics, that had great influence on the course of British design. His earliest experiments with the craft were amateurishly worked embroideries made for his own use. Before long, Morris began to produce textiles on a more commercial basis. In order to control production properly, Morris set about learning the various textiles techniques, first dyeing and blockprinting, hand-loom jacquard and eventually, carpet and tapestry weaving. This extraordinary involvement with the practical side of manufacture separated Morris from all other designers of his time and contributed in no small way to his success. Morris's designs for textiles, embroidery, dyeing, woven, carpet and tapestry were commercially produced, that are most universally admired and frequently copied today. These have a timeless quality arising from the designers respect for and knowledge of the technique. Of equal importance was his love of nature, evidence of which can be seen in even the smallest details of each of his patterns.

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Giant Neurofibroma on Both Buttocks (양측 엉덩이의 거대 신경섬유종)

  • Kim, Ji Hoon;Burm, Jin Sik;Kim, Yang Woo;Kang, So Ra;Kim, Hyoung Kyoung
    • Archives of Plastic Surgery
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    • v.36 no.4
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    • pp.512-515
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    • 2009
  • Purpose: Neurofibromatosis(NF) is an autosomal - dominant systemic disease. Up to fifty percent of patients with NF are reported to have concomitant vascular abnormalities. In the resection of a larger NF, the risk of uncontrolled hemorrhage is much higher due to the difficulty of hemostasis of large vessels within the tumor. We ligated the base of the giant NF with a simple loop - shaped ligation before removal of the giant NF in both buttocks. And then we could successfully reduce the amount of hemorrhage during the operation. Methods: A 46 - year - old female patient presented for giant masses of both gluteal area, which has been growing slowly for the last ten years. Each mass was about $30{\times}20cm$ in size. After designing the elliptical resection margin, we tightened the tumor base by using continuous loop - shaped suture ligation(weaving the thread up and down in a loop - shaped pattern, leaving a space of 2 cm between each loop) with a straight needle and prolene 2 - 0. After skin incision, we proceeded the dissection toward the central and inferior side of the mass obliquely while we avoided breaking large vascular sinuses. We resected the tumor in a wedged - shape. Subcutaneous tissue was sutured layer by layer and skin was closed by vertical mattress and interrupted suture. The loop - shaped ligation of the base was removed and compressive dressing was done with gauzes and elastic bandages. Results: Postoperative complications such as infection, hemorrhage, hematoma, and dehiscense did not occur. Perioperatively the patient was sufficiently transfused with five units of blood and two units of fresh frozen plasma. During the subsequent 1 year follow - up, the functional and cosmetic result was excellent. Conclusion: A continuous loop - shaped suture ligation procedure along the base of the giant NF effectively reduced the amount of hemorrhage during the operation, made dissection and ligation of vessels easily and quickly, and shorten the operating time and postoperative recovery time.

Methodology for Calculating Surrogate Safety Measure by Using Vehicular Trajectory and Its Application (차량궤적자료를 이용한 SSM 산출 방법론 개발과 적용사례 분석)

  • PARK, Seongyong;LEE, Chungwon;KHO, Seung-Young;LEE, Yong-Gwan
    • Journal of Korean Society of Transportation
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    • v.33 no.4
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    • pp.323-336
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    • 2015
  • Estimating the risks on the roadway using surrogate safety measures (SSM) has an advantage in that it focuses on the vehicle trajectory directly involved in conflicts. On the other hand, there is a restriction on estimating the risks of continuous segments due to the limited data collected from a location. To overcome the restriction, this study presents the scheme of acquiring the vehicular trajectory using real time kinematics-differential global positioning system (RTK-DGPS) and develops a methodology which contains the considerations of the problems to calculate the SSM such as time-to-collision (TTC), deceleration rate to avoid collision (DRAC) and acceleration noise (AN). By using the methodology, this study shows a result from an experiment executed in a section where the variation of vehicular movement can be observed from several continuous flow roadway sections near Seoul and Gyeonggi Province in Korea. The result illustrated the risks on the roadway by the SSM metrics in certain situations like merging and diverging, stop-and-go, and weaving. This study would be applied to relate the dangers with characteristics of drivers and roadway sections, and prevenst accidents or conflicts by detecting dangerous roadway sections and drivers' behaviors. This study contributes to improving roadway safety and reducing car-accidents.