• 제목/요약/키워드: weaving

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The characteristics of contemporary Indian fashion designs using traditional handicraft - Focusing on Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, and Ritu Kumar -

  • Maurya Anudhairya Ramnath;Se Jin Kim
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제32권2호
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    • pp.299-320
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    • 2024
  • Traditional culture contributes to the diversification of modern fashion design and the inheritance of local cultural identity. This study aims to identify the characteristics of traditional handicrafts reflected in modern fashion design in India. For this purpose, it focused on Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, and Ritu Kumar, who are currently leading the Indian fashion design field. The methodology involved conducting literature research and analyzing case studies. In the literature, the techniques of Indian traditional crafts such as embroidery, dyeing, and weaving were examined and five design elements of traditional crafts were defined. Through content analysis of 30 images from the three designers' Instagram accounts, the design characteristics of traditional handicrafts expressed in contemporary Indian fashion design were derived: cultural inheritance using traditional Indian clothing items, traditional materials and practices applied to contemporary clothing, craftsmanship that artistically improves complex details using embroidery techniques, various combinations based on the traditional meaning of colors, and narrative expression using patterns containing India's cultural identity. Incorporating these traditional handicrafts into fashion design, closely linked to everyday life, aids in conveying and enhancing their significance. The cases demonstrate the successful integration of conservation into contemporary fashion design. This study sheds light on the application of traditional culture in modern fashion design.

Ti-15V-3Al합금의 시효거동과 열처리에 따른 고온 기계적 특성 (Aging Behavior and Effect of Heat Treatment on High Temperature Mechanical Properties in Ti-15V-3AI-3Cr-3Sn)

  • 이재원;이백희;이규환;김영도
    • 한국재료학회지
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    • 제14권1호
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    • pp.13-18
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    • 2004
  • Titanium alloys are the one of promising candidate materials for medium high temperature parts in the aircraft, automobile, petrochemistry and electrochemistry because of their high strength with low density in medium high temperature. In this study, the effects of aging and heat treatments on the mechanical properties of Ti-15-3 alloy in medium high temperature, which was $400^{\circ}C$, were studied. Solid solution treatment was performed at $8000^{\circ}C$ of $\beta$ phase region for 1 h and the alloy was quenched in water. The alloy was aged at $5000^{\circ}C$ of $\alpha$ and $\beta$ two-phase region for 1, 2, 4, 8, ... and 100 h to increase the mechanical property. The $\beta$ single phase was observed at all parts of specimens in Ti-15-3 alloy after ST. As the aging at $500^{\circ}C$, fine precipitates of a phase was generated from matrix of $\beta$ phase and the microstructure was consisted of weaving structure such as Widmanstiitten a phase. The most suitable aging time is 24h in$ 400^{\circ}C$. At this time, strength is 1164 MPa and elongation is about 12%. In room temperature, elongation of Ti-15-3 alloy aged at $500^{\circ}C$ for 16 h is poor (=3%) in spite of high tensile strength (1458 MPa).

중동지역 남성복 Thobe 직물의 감성 태 특성 분석과 외관성능 분석 (The Analysis on the Sensitive Hand Characteristics and Appearance Performance of Thobe Fabric for Man in the Middle-East Region)

  • 김승진
    • 감성과학
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    • 제11권4호
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    • pp.449-460
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    • 2008
  • 중동지역은 PET 합섬직물이 이들의 평상복으로 많이 사용되고 있으며, 여성복은 차도르(Chador) 그리고 남성복은 토베(Thobe)라고 불려진다. 그리고 이들 PET 직물은 미세한 촉감특성에 따라서 수출가격의 큰 차이를 가져오며 원사의 특성과 제조공정 특성에 의해 미세한 감성촉감의 차이를 유발한다. 본 연구에서는 고가에 팔리고 있는 일본 데이진 제품과 비교하여 본 연구에서 개발된 중동 남성복 Thobe 제품의 감성특성을 분석하고 미세한 감성촉감의 원인을 규명하여 원사 및 최적 생산공정조건에 관한 연구를 수행하였다. 본 연구에서는 일본 데이진 직물 4가지를 목표품질시료로서 준비하였고, 개발을 위한 시생산제품으로 5가지 직물을 시생산하였다. 실의 굵기, 꼬임수 그리고 실의 세팅조건 및 직물의 밀도 등을 바꾸어 연축과 직축 그리고 가공축 등의 설계조건을 바꾸어 주었다. 본 연구수행의 결과 데이진 Thobe 제품의 감성특성을 원사 및 직물에서 분석하고 이들 감성특성 분석 자료를 바탕으로 사가공(絲加工)기술과 3차원 직물설계 시뮬레이션 기술을 바탕으로 감성 토베 직물의 설계기술을 확립하였다.

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Psychosocial Factors and Musculoskeletal Pain Among Rural Hand-woven Carpet Weavers in Iran

  • Chaman, Reza;Aliyari, Roqayeh;Sadeghian, Farideh;Shoaa, Javad Vatani;Masoudi, Mahmood;Zahedi, Shiva;Bakhshi, Mohammad A.
    • Safety and Health at Work
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    • 제6권2호
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    • pp.120-127
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    • 2015
  • Background: Musculoskeletal pain (MSP) is a common and disabling problem among carpet weavers and is linked to physical and psychosocial factors of work. This study aimed to determine the prevalence of MSP, its psychosocial risk factors, and association of pain in each pair of anatomical sites among carpet weavers. Methods: A cross-sectional study was performed among 546 hand-woven carpet weavers in rural small-scale workshops of Iran. Data were collected by using parts of a standardized CUPID (Cultural and Psychosocial Influences on Disability) questionnaire focused on MSP in 10 body sites, including the low-back, neck, both right and left shoulders, elbows, wrists/hands, individual, physical and psychosocial risk factors. Statistical analysis was performed applying logistic regression models. Results: Prevalence of MSP in at least one body sitewas 51.7% over the past month. The most common sites were low back and right shoulder pain 27.4% and 20.1%, respectively. A significant difference was found between the mean number of painful anatomical sites and the level of education, age, physical loading at work, time pressure, lack of support, and job dissatisfaction. In pairwise comparisons, strongest association was found between pain in each bilateral anatomical site (odds ratio = 11.6-35.3; p < 0.001). Conclusion: In home-based workshops of carpet weaving, psychosocial factors and physical loading were associated with MSP. This finding is consistent with studies conducted among other jobs. Considering the preventive programs, the same amount of attention should be paid to psychosocial risk factors and physical loading. Also, further longitudinal studies are needed to investigate the relationship of psychological factors.

3차원 형상계측에 의한 니트 플레어스커트의 입체형상에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Solid Shapes of Knit Flare Skirts Using 3-Dimensional Image Analysis)

  • 기희숙
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제13권2호
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    • pp.103-119
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    • 2011
  • This study set out to analyze the solid shapes of knit flared skirts, which are best represented in a 3-dimensional shape for all knit skirts, according to the seamed and seamless production method and to estimate the silhouettes of knit flared skirts based on the results. It also aimed to help with the introduction and spread of seamless weaving by revising and supplementing potential problems and provide findings that would be put to active use as basic data, thus contributing to the development of original knitwear and offering fundamental materials for the development of the knitting industry. A number of experimental knit flared skirts were made according to skirt angle ($90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge (7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain (bias, wale, and radial), including 12 kinds of seamed knit flared skirts and 6 kinds of seamless knit flared skirts. Using a three-dimensional shape measurement system, the investigator measured the cross-sectional shapes of their hemlines. The SPSS 12 Version program was used for statistical processing, and descriptive statistics such as mean and standard deviation were used to compare the seamed and seamless knit flared skirts in the measurements (measurement items) of their solid shapes according to the width, gauges, and grain directions. The central grain direction of seamless knit flared skirts was in a radial form and even hemlines, thus presenting a beautiful appearance and solid shape. The 3-dimensional shapes show that seamless knit flared skirts are superior to seamed ones. The research findings are expected to open a door for Korea's knitting industry to quickly respond to small quantity batch production and additional orders.

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교차로에 인접한 부 도로의 적정 이격거리 산정 (Determination of the Required Minimum Spacing Between Signalized Intersection and Minor Road)

  • 권성대;김윤미;강남원;하태준
    • 대한토목학회논문집
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    • 제34권2호
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    • pp.573-582
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    • 2014
  • 교차로에 인접한 부 도로에 대한 설치기준이 명확하지 않아 설치 및 운영에 많은 문제점을 야기시키고 있으며, 이로 인하여 교통소통과 교통안전에 문제가 발생하고 있다. 현재까지 교차로 진출입과 관련하여 운영적인 측면에서는 많은 연구가 시도되었지만, 교차로에 인접한 부 도로에 대한 연구는 대단히 미흡하고 이에 따른 합리적인 설계가 이루어지지 못하는 실정이다. 이에 본 연구에서는 교차로에 인접한 부 도로에서 진출하는 차량에 대한 행태를 조사하고, 교통소통과 안전을 고려하여 교차로에 인접한 부 도로의 적절한 이격거리를 제시하고자 한다. 교통소통과 안전을 도모할 수 있는 교차로에 인접한 부 도로의 적정길이를 제시함으로써, 향후 교차로에 인접한 부 도로와과 관련된 설치기준 정립에 이바지하고자 한다.

Development of The Yarn Sorting Equipment (khonhook) by Slide Way

  • Nithikarnjanatharn, Jittiwat;Rithinyo, Manote
    • International journal of advanced smart convergence
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    • 제4권1호
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    • pp.137-144
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    • 2015
  • Development of the yarn sorting equipment (khonhook) by slide way due to the principle of engineering that cause of workers on the long of motion time. The data was collected from the weaving group Ban Nongkok village, Nakornratchasima Province, THAILAND. According to the study, the step of yarn sorting (konhook) was one of the steps that affect long of motion time. The problem was the inadequate capacity equipment. The objective of research was to study and develop the yarn sorting equipment (konhook). The fabric used in the study was 64 meters in length and 1 meter in width. Researchers studied the processes the yarn sorting (konhook) which it consists of seven sub steps, 1) the thread tube setting, 2) yarn bunching, 3) tying a knot at the end of yarn, 4) looping the yarn into a pillar, 5) sorting the yarn (konhook), 6) crossing pillars and 7) taking out the yarn. Researchers focused on studying yarn sorting process (konhook) by designing and creating a device for yarn sorting (konhook) for reducing yarn sorting (konhook) time by the original method performance indicators. The results found that the developed yarn sorting equipment (konhook) ) by slide way could reduce working time from 7.24 minutes to 6.08 minutes of the original equipment yarn sorting (konhook). This means it could make the process 16.02 % faster. This also helps reducing the distance of workers' movement from 2,234 meters to 8 meters. This is 99.64 % shorter.

1930년대~1980년대 호남 지방의 직물 생산 방식의 특징 - 전라남도 구례군의 면직물과 견직물을 중심으로 - (The characteristics of Korean textile production of the Honam district from the 1930s to the 1980s - Focused on cotton and silk textiles in Gurye, Jella Province -)

  • 최승연
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제21권6호
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    • pp.844-859
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    • 2013
  • This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

네일 아트에 나타난 체크 패턴에 관한 연구 (A study on Check Pattern of Nail Art)

  • 정승은;김정미
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제17권1호
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    • pp.53-68
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze check pattern of nail art from 2011 to 2013. The results of this study are as follows; 1) Check pattern of nail art is total 257 patterns, and there are 84 argyle, 29 tartan, 24 harlequin, 24 over, 23 window-pane, 15 stitcheds, 13 hound tooth, 10 block, 10 madras, 8 gingham, 8 gradation, 7 shepherd, and 2 tattersall check patterns. Through this result, in nail art, the relatively simple patterns such as a vertical pattern, a horizontal pattern, and cross or overlap diagonal line are used more than elaborate and complex check patterns of a fibrous tissue from a weaving process. 2) In check pattern of nail art, N-affiliated color and R-affiliated color are remarkably well-used, because of the effects of argyle, tartan, window-pane, harlequin, stitched, over, and hound tooth check patterns used the most during the past three years. Especially, most tartan, harlequin, over, and hound tooth check patterns use their own special colors such as R-affiliated colors and N-affiliated colors as it is, and argyle, window-pane, stitched, and over check patterns use well by arranging N-affiliated colors and R-affiliated colors. 3) The most used expressive technique is hand painting to express check pattern in nail art, because new products related to UV gel are well launched. These materials can draw fine line that is hard to express by existing polish easily and simply, and not only have set quickly hard, so procedure time is very short, so it is compatible to draw check pattern personally, but also it is well covered, so check pattern is more clearly expressed.

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대구시내(大邱市內) 일부(一部) 방직공장(紡織工場)의 기직공(機織工)에 대(對)한 개별청력검사(個別聽力檢査) 보고(報告) (Noise-Induced Hearing Disturbance of Textile Weavers by Individual Pure Tone Threshold Determination Test in Taegu City)

  • 박홍진
    • Journal of Preventive Medicine and Public Health
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    • 제7권1호
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    • pp.177-183
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    • 1974
  • It is generally recognized that the environmental noise of the various working places thought to be the cause of hearing disturbance. This survey was carried out to evaluate the prevalence of noise-induced occupational bearing loss among the weavers of 39 textile industries in Taegu, Korea. For this survey, 432 male workers and 2,023 female workers were examined their hearing acuity by Individual pure tone threshold determination test(air conduction), from November, 1972, to January, 1973. Main findings were as follows : 1. The mean of noise intensity of the 54 weaving rooms was, in over all, $95.6{\pm}4.2dB\;(A),\;95.9{\pm}4.0dB\;(B)\;and\;96.2{\pm}3.9dB\;(C)$. 2. The mean hearing threshold levels by service years in the 4,000 Hz were intensively increased from 1st to 3rd year and slightly decreased. than that of 3rd year, from after 3rd to 5th year, after 5th year that increased slightly. 3. The mean hearing threshold levels by frequencies were highest in the 4,000 Hz(male: $25.0{\pm}11.3dB$, female: $22.0{\pm}10.2dB$) and followed by 6,000, 8,000 and 3,000 Hz. 4. The mean hearing threshold level of the 6,000 Hz (male: 17.0 dB. female: 17.9dB) was higher than that of 4,000Hz (male: 16.4 dB, female: 17.1dB) in tile 1st service year. 5. The mean hearing loss of examinees was $16.2{\pm}8.0dB$ in male and $15.4{\pm}7.8dB$ in female.

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