• 제목/요약/키워드: wave-induced longshore current

검색결과 22건 처리시간 0.016초

제주 우도 홍조단괴해빈의 태풍 시기 지형변화 (Topographic Variability during Typhoon Events in Udo Rhodoliths Beach, Jeju Island, South Korea)

  • 윤우석;윤석훈;문재홍;홍지석
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • 제43권4호
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    • pp.307-320
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    • 2021
  • Udo Rhodolith Beach is a small-scale, mixed sand-and-gravel beach embayed on the N-S trending rocky coast of Udo, Jeju Island, South Korea. This study analyzes the short-term topographic changes of the beach during the extreme storm conditions of four typhoons from 2016 to 2020: Chaba (2016), Soulik (2018), Lingling (2019), and Maysak (2020). The analysis uses the topographic data of terrestrial LiDAR scanning and drone photogrammetry, aided by weather and oceanographic datasets of wind, wave, current and tide. The analysis suggests two contrasting features of alongshore topographic change depending on the typhoon pathway, although the intensity and duration of the storm conditions differed in each case. During the Soulik and Lingling events, which moved northward following the western sea of the Jeju Island, the northern part of the beach accreted while the southern part eroded. In contrast, the Chaba and Maysak events passed over the eastern sea of Jeju Island. The central part of the beach was then significantly eroded while sediments accumulated mainly at the northern and southern ends of the beach. Based on the wave and current measurements in the nearshore zone and computer simulations of the wave field, it was inferred that the observed topographic change of the beach after the storm events is related to the directions of the wind-driven current and wave propagation in the nearshore zone. The dominant direction of water movement was southeastward and northeastward when the typhoon pathway lay to the east or west of Jeju Island, respectively. As these enhanced waves and currents approached obliquely to the N-S trending coastline, the beach sediments were reworked and transported southward or northward mainly by longshore currents, which likely acts as a major control mechanism regarding alongshore topographic change with respect to Udo Rhodolith Beach. In contrast to the topographic change, the subaerial volume of the beach overall increased after all storms except for Maysak. The volume increase was attributed to the enhanced transport of onshore sediment under the combined effect of storm-induced long periodic waves and a strong residual component of the near-bottom current. In the Maysak event, the raised sea level during the spring tide probably enhanced the backshore erosion by storm waves, eventually causing sediment loss to the inland area.

표층퇴적물 및 표사수지에 의한 해운대 해수욕장의 계절별 표사 이동특성 (Characteristics of Seasonal Sediment Transport in Haeundae Beach)

  • 이종섭;탁대호;윤은찬;김석윤
    • 한국해안해양공학회지
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    • 제19권6호
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    • pp.547-556
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    • 2007
  • 해운대 연안에서 파랑, 해빈류 및 조석류에 의한 표사이동을 TRANSPOR-2004를 이용해서 계절별 표사수지를 분석하였다. 그 결과로부터 년간의 표사수지를 계산하고 표사의 유출입경로를 유추하였다. 해수욕장의 동쪽 해안을 따라 해수욕장으로 유입된 표사는 중앙부에서 일부는 20% 정도는 외해로 유출하고 80% 정도는 해안을 따라 동백섬 쪽으로 이동하는 패턴을 나타냈다. 또한 동백섬의 남쪽에선 해안을 따라 해수욕장으로 유입되는 표사이동 패턴도 나타났다. 이 결과는 Gao 모델을 이용하여 봄과 가을의 퇴적물 이동 패턴을 계산한 결과와도 잘 일치하는 것으로 나타났다.