• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.663-671
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• 2013

The width of Haeundae beach has been decreasing annually due to the loss of sand from land, high waves, reflected waves, etc.. The accurate prediction of wave-induced currents is indispensible to analyze the beach deformation due to the sediment transport. In the this study, Numerical experiments were performed with seasonal representative wave on the basis of a long term and comprehensive survey data. In summer, we found the deposition of Mipo by longshore current eastly by ordinary and S waves, and in winter, the deposition of Dongback-island by longshore current westly by ordinary and E waves. In addition, rip current occurs in the middle of Haeundae beach by 50 year return period wave and current westly along the coast by ESE directional wave.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.55-62
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• 2017

A nearshore current or a wave-induced current is an important phenomenon in a nearshore zone, which is composed of longshore, cross-shore, and rip currents. The nearshore current is closely related to the occurrence of coastal accidents by beachgoers. A considerable number of coastal accidents by beachgoers involving the rip current have been reported at Jungmun Beach. However, in studies and observations of the nearshore current of Jungmun Beach, understanding of the rip current pattern remains unclear. In this study, a scientific approach is taken to understand the nearshore current and the rip current patterns at Jungmun Beach by numerical computation for year of 2015. From results of numerical computation, the occurrence and spatial characteristics of the rip current, and the similarities between the rip current and incident wave conditions are analyzed. The primary results of this study reveal that the rip currents are frequently generated at Jungmun Beach, especially in the western parts of the beach, and that the rip currents often occur with a wave breaking height of around 0.5 ~ 0.7 m, a wave period of around 6 ~ 8 seconds, and a breaking angle of around 0 ~ 15 degrees.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.4 no.3 s.14
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• pp.1-8
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• 2004

In this study, the change of the current in the coastal zone before and after the construction of Jeju new harbor was predicted by using the numerical model, which uses Hardy-Cross method. The numerical model was carried out for the present state, before the construction, and the state after the construction, and for the wave direction the NNW direction for winter and NE direction for summer were tested so that the seasonal change may be considered. The computation result shows that a large amount of the wave induced current was occurred when there were high waves coming in from NNW direction before and after the construction. Also, before the construction a longshore current occurred moving from the west to the east at the new harbor construction site so that it formed a rip current in the Hwabuk-dong front sea. And also, after the construction, the tip current produced changed into nearshore circulating current and a small circulating current appeared at the harbor entrance. On the other hand, at Samyang 4each, which is 3.0km away from the new harbor in the NE direction, shows that there was a longshore current occurred from the west to the east, which is in the opposite direction the new harbor, and the effect on the new harbor by sediment transport at Samyang beach is thought to be very small.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.591-598
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• 2015

A hydraulic characteristics in the surf zone such as wave breaking points, wave set-down, wave set-up, wave-induced currents and run-up heights are studied using the SWASH model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach. Incident wave conditions is obtained from one-hourly observed wave data by KHOA and irregular wave by JONSWAP spectrum is given as an open boundary condition in the model. A Wave-induced current patterns by the SWASH model is compared with the observed currents and sediment flux patterns in that areas, the calculated maximum wave run-up heights in the model is compared with the video monitoring data, the empirical formula by Stockdon et al. and Mase. A dominant longshore currents toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident wave direction and the geographical features and some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. The maximum wave run-up height(1.15 m) by the SWASH model shows a similar pattern with the video monitoring data(1.26 m) and the magnitude shows a similar result(1.33m) by Stockdon et al.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.276-284
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• 2011

The rip current occurred at Haeundae beach was numerically investigated under directional random wave environment. The numerical simulation was performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE which is capable of simulating nearshore circulation since it includes the effect of wave-induced momentum flux and horizontal turbulent mixing. The results of numerical simulation show the time-dependent evolution of the wave-induced nearshore circulation system (including rip current) that are caused by nonlinear transformation of directional irregular waves due to unique topography of Haeundae. From the results, it was found that rip current is well generated and developed where relatively lower wave height and relatively deeper water depth along the longshore direction, and sudden and strong events of rip current were observed.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.151-158
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• 1990

Various factors may contribute on the mixing processes in the surf zone formed by irregular waves. The turbulence motion driven by wave breaking may be one of the major causes, the effect due to spatial variation on current velocity be a secondary one, and the additional process may result from the irregular superposition of radiation stresses or wave breaking dissipation incurred by random breaking waves in a broadened surf zone. In the present study a numerical model of spectral waves and induced currents was developed using a superposition technique with ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ closure for mixing process and applied to a field situation of longshore current generated by spectral waves on a uniform beach. It was found from the application that the surf-zone mixing processes formed by irregular waves can be well described by using ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ equations if the source of ${\kappa}$ is properly represented. The nonlinear energy transfer was also found to have some influence on the velocity profile of longshore current particularly in very shallow water region near coast.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.399-409
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• 2017

This study numerically investigates the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy acting as the main external forces of the salient formed behind the permeable submerged breakwaters. Shoreline response is also predicted by the longshore-induced flux. In this paper, a three-dimensional numerical wave tank based on the OLAFOAM, CFD open source code, is utilized to simulate the velocity field around permeable submerged breakwaters under the formation condition of salient. The characteristics of the velocity field around permeable submerged breakwaters with respect to the gap width between breakwaters and the installing position away from the shoreline under a range of regular waves for different wave height are evaluated. The numerical results revealed that as the gap width between breakwaters increases, the longshore currents become stronger. Furthermore, as the gap width becomes narrower, the point where flow converges moves from the center of the breakwater to the head part. As a result, it is possible to understand the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters. In addition, it was found that the longshore currents caused by the gap width between breakwaters and the installation position away from the shoreline are closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.238-245
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• 2015

Recently, Choi et al.(2015) showed that a numerical simulation of the SandyDuck experiment under a directional random wave environment agreed well with the experimental data including the wave height distribution of the random waves, the well-developed longshore current and its energetic fluctuation. Based on the Boussinesq modeling, this study investigates the effect of the alongshore variations, which are induced by not only the field topography but also the phase interaction of multidirectional random waves in the surf zone wave field, on the rip currents. As a result, transient rip currents as well as topographical rip currents cause the complicated surfzone circulation and mixing process due to their interactions in a multi-directional random wave condition while the topographical rip currents are dominant in a monochromatic wave condition.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.50-55
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• 1999

Gao and Collins method (two-dimensional sediment transport trend-vector model) using grain-size parameters (mean grain size, sorting coefficient, and skewness) calculated by the statistical moment method is introduced to understand semi-quantitatively the sandy and surficial sediment transport trends on a coast of the East Sea. The result is the sediment transport vectors which indicate transport paths of surficial sediment by wave-induced currents. The corresponding morphological feature is a spit developed at the mouth of the Nam¬dae stream, which is a resultant sediment transported by longshore current and is blocking the circulation of ocean. After this, it is thought that seasonal research and hydrodynamic measurements are needed for verification of the results.