• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제12권3호통권29호
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• pp.75-85
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• 1998

A finite difference model for predicting time-dependent, wave-induced nearshore current is studied. The model includes wave refraction, wave-current interaction, bottom friction and wind effect. This model iteratively solved the linear the linear set of conservation of both mass and momentum, which were time averaged (over one wave period) and depth integrated, for mean velocities and free surface displacement. Numerical simulations of nearshore current under oblique wave attack, and for wave and wind induced current on a longshore periodic beach are carried out. Longshore velocities tend to zero in some distances outside the breaker line. And the peak velocity is shifted shoreward at the breaker line. The results represent the general characteristics of the nearshore current induced by wave.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.1-8
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• 2001

파랑으로 인해 발생되는 흐름은 연안에서 질량수송의 일련의 과정을 야기시키므로 연안유역의 관리에 파랑과 흐름의 상호작용에 대한 정확한 이해가 요구된다. 본 논문은 적응가능한 사면 구조 격자에 근간을 둔 파랑장과 흐름장을 혼합한 수치모델을 기술하였다. 사용한 모델은 쇄파, 천수, 굴절, 회절, 파랑과 흐름의 상호작용, 평균해면의 저하와 상승, 혼합 과정, 바닥 마찰 효과 그리고 해안선에 접한 운동 등을 해석할 수 있다. 주기와 수심으로 평균한 지배 방정식은 단계적으로 엇갈린 사면구조 격자에 적응 가능한 Adam-Bashforth 2차 유한 차분 기법으로 양해적으로 모델화 되었다. 본 모델로부터의 결과는 평면 해변에서 경사 입사파에 의해 발생된 연안류의 실험치와 타당한 일치를 보였다.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.382-390
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• 2015

본 연구에서는 SWASH 모형을 이용하여 계절별 이상파랑에 의한 해운대 해수욕장에서 불규칙파의 파랑 변형 및 해빈류 특성을 분석하였다. 개경계에서 불규칙파는 JONSWAP 스펙트럼을 적용하였다. 입사파 조건은 국립해양조사원에서 제공하는 2014년 파랑관측자료를 바탕으로 계절별 대표파를 선정하였다. SWASH에 의한 계절별 해빈류 계산결과는 현장조사 결과와 비교 검토하였다. 하계의 경우 S 계열의 파랑이 지배적이며 동백섬측에서 미포측으로 연안류가 지배적으로 발생하였고 해운대 해수욕장 중앙부근에서는 이안류가 발생하였다. 동계의 경우 ESE 계열의 파랑이 지배적이며 해운대 해수욕장 중앙부근에서 각각 동백섬측과 미포측으로 향하는 연안류가 발생하였다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.15-20
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• 2007

The harbor siltation by longshore sediment transports has become a serious problem on the East Coast of Korea. A reasonable prediction of the longshore sediment rate is important to approach the siltation problem effectively. In the recently developed 1-line model, the empirical constants of the sediment transport formula, which include the absolute quantity of sediment transport rate and the spatial distribution of breaking wave height by wave deformation, are treated as calibration parameters. Since these constants should be determined by the very long-term shoreline data, the longshore sediment rates are much more reasonable values. The method was applied to Hupo Beach, which has experienced heavy siltation. The authors also discuss long-term shoreline change using aerial photos and the observed wave-induced current patterns. According to the result, the SW-direction sediment transport rate was $146,892m^3/year$, and the NE direction was $2,694,450m^3/year$ at Hupo Beach for the last 11 years. The siltation in Hupo Harbor might be affected by the NE-direction sediment transport from Hupo Beach.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.68-79
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• 2023

Even though submerged breakwater reduces incident wave energy, it redistributes the coastal area's wave-induced current, sediment transport, and morphological change. This study examines the coastal hydrodynamics and the morphological response of a wave-dominated beach with submerged breakwaters installed through field observation and quasi-3D numerical modeling. The pre-and post-storm bathymetry, water level, and offshore wave under storm forcing were collected in Bongpo Beach on the East coast of Korea and used to analyze the coastal hydrodynamic response. Four vertically equidistant layers were used in the numerical simulation, and the wave-induced current was examined using quasi-3D numerical modeling. The shore normal incident wave (east-northeast) generated strong cross-shore and longshore currents toward the hinterland of the submerged breakwater. However, the oblique incident wave (east-southeast) induced the southeastward longshore current and the sedimentation in the northeast area of the beach. The results suggested that the incident wave direction is a significant factor in determining the current and sediment transport patterns in the presence of the submerged breakwaters. Moreover, the quasi-3D numerical modeling is more appropriate for estimating the wave transformation, current, and sediment transport pattern in the coastal area with the submerged breakwater.

• 한국연안방재학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.7-19
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• 2017

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• 한국연안방재학회지
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• 제4권spc호
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• pp.245-253
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• 2017

In this study, surface currents measured by small lagrangian GPS drifters (Aquadrifter) in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of nearshore surface current and wave-induced current to understand sediment transport mechanism near the crescentic bars in the surf-zone and near Kangneung breakwater and submerged breakwater in Anmok. The 8 times lagrangian drifter experiments were conducted mostly during in 2nd, 3rd, 4th intensive measurements in winter, summer, and spring seasons with long-term wave observation at the station W1. The analysed surface currents near the breakwaters in Anmok show that wave-induced currents at the middle of the submerged breakwater were separated and flowed toward the shoreline but offshore currents were dominant through the channels between the breakwaters. The longshore currents near the shoreline were flowed to the northwest (southeast) depending on the incoming waves from ENE (NNE). The surface nearshore offshore currents were generated mostly by waves and winds in case of high and low wave energy environments. Using the small-size lagrangian surface drifter experiments, we successfully measured longshore and offshore wave-induced currents in the surf-zone and near submerged breakwater close to Kangneung breakwater. The drifter experiment results show the availability of direct observation of nearshore surface currents to understand the mechanism of sediment transport analysing observed wave-induced current and ebb-current in the surf-zone generated by incoming waves and local winds.

• 해양환경안전학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.185-193
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• 2010

Boussinesq 모형을 이용하여 규칙파 조건(Regular wave condition)에서 파랑변형 및 해빈류의 수치모의를 하였다. 파랑변형의 수치결과는 선행 연구에 의한 수리실험 결과와 비교하여 매우 좋은 일치를 보였으며, 검증한 파랑변형 결과를 바탕으로 충분히 안정한 상태 이후의 해빈류를 계산하여 예측하였다. 모형의 현장 적용성을 위해, 실규모해역에서 관측한 선행 연구의 현장자료와 비교하였으며, 파랑변형의 수치결과는 현장자료와 비교적 양호한 일치를 보였다. 해빈류의 수치결과는 연안사주가 발단된 지역에서 다소 과소평가 되었지만, 전반적으로 해빈류의 공간적 분포에 대하여 정도 있게 예측한 것으로 여겨진다.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

본 연구에서는 인천광역시 중구 을왕동 충의휴양소 전면 해역에서의 과거 침식이력 및 현황을 세밀히 조사하고 해안선 침식원인을 찾기 위해 파랑 및 해빈류 등을 조사하여 분석 하였다. 관측결과 유의파고($H_{1/3}$)는 0.07~1.57 m의 범위로 나타났고, 평균값은 0.21 m로 나타났다. 또한 최대파고($H_{max}$)는 0.02-4.76m 범위로 나타났고, 평균값은 0.27 m로 나타났다. 파랑변형 수치모형실험을 통해 법선파고 및 주기를 산정하였고, 50년 빈도 설계파고는 0.82 m~3.75 m의 범위를 나타내었다. 해빈류 실험 결과 이안제 및 도류제 설치 이후 충의 휴양소 해안 부근의 해빈류가 감소하는 경향을 나타냈다. 반면, 마루높이를 5 m까지 높였을 경우에는 큰 변화가 없었지만 8m로 높이면 낮아진 수심의 영향으로 강한 해빈류가 수중방파제 주변에 발생하였다. 또한, 충의휴양소의 주된 침식원인은 외해로부터 입사하는 파랑특성이 백사장 전면에 집중적으로 내습하기 때문이다. 백사장 전면으로 집중되는 파의 변형으로 백사장과 평행하게 흐르는 연안류와 횡단방향으로의 이안류를 추가적으로 유발시킴으로써 연안표사가 전면외해로 이동/유출하기 때문으로 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구의 결과는 백사장 원상복구 및 효율적인 침식방지시설 선정의 기초자료로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.