• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.29 no.1
• /
• pp.36-45
• /
• 2017

In the present study, the storm waves at the Korean Straits of April, 2016 have been reproduced by the wave hindcasting, and then their characteristics were investigated. Before the wave hindcasting, the wave measurements at the Korean Straits were analyzed. The analysis showed that the waves at the Korean Straits were dominated by the Northeastern waves, same as those in the East Sea. Accordingly, the wave hindcasting was been carried out with the same condition in Ahn et al. (2016). In the numerical results, the maximum significant wave height at the Korean Straits was 5.06 m, and the corresponding significant wave period was 9.2 s. The computed significant wave heights and wave periods were overestimated by 4 cm and 0.8 s, respectively. After the wave hindcasting, the computed significant wave heights and peak periods were compared with the JONSWAP relationship. This comparison showed that the storm waves at the Korean Straits were close to wind waves, not swell.

• Journal of Sensor Science and Technology
• /
• v.17 no.6
• /
• pp.454-461
• /
• 2008

This embedded module measures significant wave height and zero crossing periods through spectral energy from a record of time series heave motion. An ARM7TDMI core microcontroller serves as the main control unit which performs the appropriate control and signal conditioning. Monitored wave characteristic is transmitted with satellite modem. Mathematical equations on signal conditioning and experiments procedures are documented in this paper.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.31 no.5
• /
• pp.278-293
• /
• 2019

The joint distribution of wave height and period has been maltreated despite of its great engineering value due to the absence of any analytical model for wave period, and as a result, no consensus has been reached about the effect of nonlinearity on these joint distribution. On the other hand, there was a great deal of efforts to study the effects of non-linearity on the wave height distribution over the last decades, and big strides has been made. However, these achievements has not been extended to the joint distribution of wave height and period. In this rationale, we first express the joint distribution of wave height and period as the product of the marginal distribution of wave heights with the conditional distribution of associated periods, and proceed to derive the joint distribution of wave heights and periods utilizing the models of Longuet-Higgins (1975, 1983), and Cavanie et al. (1976) for conditional distribution of wave periods, and height distribution derived in this study. The verification was carried out using numerically simulated data based on the Wallops spectrum, and the nonlinear wave data obtained via the numerical simulation of random waves approaching toward the uniform beach of 1:15 slope. It turns out that the joint distribution based on the height distribution for finite banded nonlinear waves, and Cavanie et al.'s model (1976) is most promising.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.27 no.2
• /
• pp.142-147
• /
• 2015

Wave data acquired over seven years near Daejin Harbor located in the north central area of the east coast was analyzed using spectral method and wave-by-wave analysis method and its major wave characteristics were examined. Significant wave heights were found to be high in winter and low in summer, and peak periods were also found to be long in winter and short in summer. The maximum significant wave height observed was 6.59 m and was caused by Typhoon No. 1216, SANBA. The distributional pattern of the significant wave heights and peak periods were both reproduced better by Kernel distribution function than by Generalized Gamma distribution function and Generalized Extreme Value distribution function. Meanwhile, the wave data was subdivided by month and wave height level and the cumulative appearance rate was proposed to aid designing and constructing works in nearby coastal areas.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.34 no.4
• /
• pp.119-127
• /
• 2022

To investigate varying wave impact pressure exerting at the crest wall of rubble mound seawall, depending on breaking wave properties, regular waves with different wave periods were generated. Wave velocity fields and void fraction were measured using bubble image velocimetry and simple combined wave gauge system (Na and Son, 2021). For the waves with shorter wave period, maximum horizontal velocity was less reduced compared to incident wave speed while breaking-induced air entrainment was occurred intensely, leading to a significant reduction of wave impact pressure at the crest wall. For the waves with longer wave periods, less air wave entrained and the wave structure followed a flip-through mode (Cooker and Peregrine, 1991), resulting in an abrupt increase of the impact pressure.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
• /
• v.11 no.1
• /
• pp.597-605
• /
• 2019

This paper proposes a novel method for efficient prediction of joint distributions of heights and periods of nonlinear ocean waves. The proposed novel method utilizes a transformed linear simulation which is based on a Hermite transformation model where the transformation is chosen to be a monotonic cubic polynomial, calibrated such that the first four moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. This proposed novel method is utilized to predict the joint distributions of wave heights and periods of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Gulfaks C platform in the North Sea, and the novel method's accuracy and efficiency are favorably validated by using comparisons with the results from an empirical joint distribution model, from a linear simulation model and from a second-order nonlinear simulation model.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
• /
• v.37 no.5
• /
• pp.286-294
• /
• 2016

Using a method suggested by Yanovskaya, we obtained Rayleigh wave group velocities with a resolution of $1.0^{\circ}{\times}1.0^{\circ}$ in a period range between 10 and 80 s in and around the Korean peninsula. Both regional and distant earthquake data sets were used together in analysis of group velocities. The resolution of the group velocity maps has been remarkably enhanced by the method, especially in the sparse/non-station region in the northern Korean peninsula. Some qualitative geophysical information was inferred from the group velocity maps. In the East Sea, the slow group velocities at periods longer than 40 s suggest the existence of an oceanic lithosphere at depths of 50-70 km, assuming 4 km/s of S wave velocity at a period of 40 s. On the other hand, a thick lithosphere can be inferred in the continental area from the fast group velocities at periods longer than 50 s. For most periods, the group velocities change rapidly over a short distance of about 200 km across the eastern coast of Korean peninsula, which may suggest a rapid change in the thickness of lithosphere in this area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.336-344
• /
• 2007

A method is developed to evaluate partial safety factors for armor units, by which uncertainties of random variables in reliability function as well as wave height distribution with service periods could take into account straightforwardly. It is found that partial safety factors for resistance and wave height are correctly increased with improving target levels on failure of coastal structures at the same return and service periods. Therefore, it nay be possible to determine design variables through the same processes as those of deterministic method by using the partial safety factors for resistance and wave height evaluated in this paper, since uncertainties of random variables and the effects of service periods and target probability failure are directly considered in the processes of evaluation of partial safety factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
• /
• v.48 no.3
• /
• pp.227-234
• /
• 2012

This paper describes the remote monitoring of breaking ocean waves generated by Typhoon Nabi, whose name means butterfly in Korean, using a marine X-band radar in the Yongho Man, Busan, Korea. The basic purpose of this study is to investigate the dynamic behavior and to estimate the periods of breaking waves across the surf zone from radar image sequences. In these experiments, the land-based radar system imaged the inshore zone of three miles from the coastline to a isobath of 30 meters. The wave period and the dominant wave direction for breaking ocean waves extracted directly from radar image sequences were 157.4 meters and 298 degrees, respectively. However, the result calculated quantitatively by the continuous wavelet transform (CWT) showed that the period of breaking waves was 154.3 meters. The average difference in breaking wave periods between the value extracted by using EBRL (electronic bearing and range line) of radar and the calculated value by CWT was 3.1 meters, showing that the CWT method is also accurate. These results suggest that a marine X-band radar system is a viable method of monitoring the breaking ocean waves.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.34-38
• /
• 2010

Field investigations have been carried out in two 60-day stages on the surf beat low frequency waves in Anzali port, one of the main commercial ports in Iran, located in southwest coast of the Caspian Sea. The characteristics of significant water waves were measured at three metering stations in the sea, one at the entrance of the port and three in the basin. The measured data were inspected to investigate the surf beat negative effects on the tranquility of the port. Using field measurements and complementary numerical modeling, the response of the basin to the infra-gravity long waves was inspected for a range of wave frequencies. It was concluded that the water surface fluctuations in the port is strongly related to the incident wave period. The long waves with periods of about 45s were recognized as the worst cases for water surfaceperturbation in the port. For wave periods higher than the mentioned range, the order of fluctuation was generally low.