• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.320-326
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• 2016

Rip current forecasts, based on intensity, are marked in four levels—notice, watch, warning, and danger. However, numerical results are represented by current vectors, whose magnitudes are then converted into predictive levels. In the present study, the rose diagram is adapted as a determinative forecasting index and examined for the case of an ideal rip channel consisting of surface, bottom, and averaged currents. Further, it is employed in the sensitivity analysis of wave-induced currents generated by wave conditions at the Haeundae Beach. The simulation of surface onshore and bottom undertow currents is accomplished by including a mass flux term in the wave-averaged continuity equation.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제12권3호통권29호
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• pp.75-85
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• 1998

A finite difference model for predicting time-dependent, wave-induced nearshore current is studied. The model includes wave refraction, wave-current interaction, bottom friction and wind effect. This model iteratively solved the linear the linear set of conservation of both mass and momentum, which were time averaged (over one wave period) and depth integrated, for mean velocities and free surface displacement. Numerical simulations of nearshore current under oblique wave attack, and for wave and wind induced current on a longshore periodic beach are carried out. Longshore velocities tend to zero in some distances outside the breaker line. And the peak velocity is shifted shoreward at the breaker line. The results represent the general characteristics of the nearshore current induced by wave.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• 제37권1호
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• pp.11-22
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• 2015

In-situ measurements are labor-intensive, time-consuming, and limited in their ability to observe currents with spatial variations in the surf zone. This paper proposes an optical image-based method of measurement of currents in the surf zone. This method measures nearshore currents by tracking in time wave breaking-induced foam patches from sequential images. Foam patches in images tend to be arrayed with irregular pixel intensity values, which are likely to remain consistent for a short period of time. This irregular intensity feature of a foam patch is characterized and represented as a keypoint using an image-based object recognition method, i.e., Scale Invariant Feature Transform (SIFT). The keypoints identified by the SIFT method are traced from time sequential images to produce instantaneous velocity fields. In order to remove erroneous velocities, the instantaneous velocity fields are filtered by binding them within upper and lower limits, and averaging the velocity data in time and space with a certain interval. The measurements that are obtained by this method are comparable to the results estimated by an existing image-based method of observing currents, named the Optical Current Meter (OCM).

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.216-224
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• 2011

In This study develops a quasi-three dimensional numerical model of wave driven coastal currents with accounting the effects of the wave-current interaction and the surface rollers. In the wave model, the current effects on wave breaking and energy dissipation are taken into account as well as the wave diffraction effect. The surface roller associated with wave breaking was modeled based on a modification of the equations by Dally and Brown (1995) and Larson and Kraus (2002). Furthermore, the quasi-three dimensional model, which based on Navier-Stokes equations, was modified in association with the surface roller effect, and solved using frictional step method. The model was validated by data sets obtained during experiments on the Large Scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF) basin and the Hazaki Oceanographical Research Station (HORS). Then, a model test against detached breakwater was carried out to investigate the performance of the model around coastal structures. Finally, the model was applied to Akasaki port to verify the hydrodynamics around coastal structures. Good agreements between computations and measurements were obtained with regard to the cross-shore variation in waves and currents in nearshore and surf zone.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.21-30
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• 2010

This study presents a numerical simulation of sea water-exchange as a preliminary accessing tool of water quality in the protected shore behind a overtopped breakwater. The overtopped breakwater is taken into account for a safe swimming and beach protection. The overtopping rate is calculated by empirical models and the consequent currents, known as wave-induced currents, are calculated under the conditions of H.W.O.S.T and L.W.O.S.T. The rate of sea water exchange is used to evaluate the characteristics of sea water exchange and calculated through the simulation processes such as advective discharging through the outlets and random-walking diffusion of particles released within a basin. The numerical results show that the overtopped waves sufficiently improve the water exchange without healthless stagnation of contaminated mass and the consequent currents are not too strong for swimming.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

본 연구에서는 인천광역시 중구 을왕동 충의휴양소 전면 해역에서의 과거 침식이력 및 현황을 세밀히 조사하고 해안선 침식원인을 찾기 위해 파랑 및 해빈류 등을 조사하여 분석 하였다. 관측결과 유의파고($H_{1/3}$)는 0.07~1.57 m의 범위로 나타났고, 평균값은 0.21 m로 나타났다. 또한 최대파고($H_{max}$)는 0.02-4.76m 범위로 나타났고, 평균값은 0.27 m로 나타났다. 파랑변형 수치모형실험을 통해 법선파고 및 주기를 산정하였고, 50년 빈도 설계파고는 0.82 m~3.75 m의 범위를 나타내었다. 해빈류 실험 결과 이안제 및 도류제 설치 이후 충의 휴양소 해안 부근의 해빈류가 감소하는 경향을 나타냈다. 반면, 마루높이를 5 m까지 높였을 경우에는 큰 변화가 없었지만 8m로 높이면 낮아진 수심의 영향으로 강한 해빈류가 수중방파제 주변에 발생하였다. 또한, 충의휴양소의 주된 침식원인은 외해로부터 입사하는 파랑특성이 백사장 전면에 집중적으로 내습하기 때문이다. 백사장 전면으로 집중되는 파의 변형으로 백사장과 평행하게 흐르는 연안류와 횡단방향으로의 이안류를 추가적으로 유발시킴으로써 연안표사가 전면외해로 이동/유출하기 때문으로 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구의 결과는 백사장 원상복구 및 효율적인 침식방지시설 선정의 기초자료로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국정보통신학회논문지
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• 제10권9호
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• pp.1625-1632
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• 2006

시술자로부터 침을 경유하여 유도되는 전위는 피시술자의 경락 경혈에서 전위변화의 원인으로 중요한 요소이다. 이에 대하여, 족양명위경상의 족삼리(ST36)에서 다양한 수기자극 방식에 따라 상거허혈(ST37)과 하거허혈(ST39)에서 유발되는 경락전위 패턴을 관찰하였다. 수기자극에 대한 임상실험결과, 침치료에 있어서 다양한 수기자극조건은 주로 톱니파(용량성 전류) 형태의 전위파형이 관찰되었다. 따라서 시술자와 피시술자간의 침치료 효과에 영향을 주는 주된 자극패턴은 용량성 전류자극 패턴임을 확인하였다.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.238-245
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• 2015

Choi et al.(2015)은 최근 Boussinesq 방정식 모형인 FUNWAVE를 이용하여, 다방향 불규칙파 조건으로 SandyDuck 현장실험 조건의 연안흐름을 수치모의하여, 연안류 유속분포 뿐만 아니라 전단파동 등의 계산결과가 관측결과와 잘 일치함을 보였다. 이 연구모형을 기반으로 SandyDuck 지형과 더불어 다방향 위상의 상호작용에 의해 발생되는 연안방향의 파에너지 비균등성이 이안류 발달에 미치는 영향을 고찰하기 위해 수치모의를 수행하였다. 이 결과 지형에 의해 발생하는 이안류가 지배적인 규칙파 조건과 달리 다방향 불규칙파 위상의 상호작용에 따른 돌발적 이안류의 발생이 추가되어 매우 복잡한 쇄파대의 연안 순환흐름을 재현함을 알 수 있었다.

• 한국항해항만학회지
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.55-62
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• 2017

A nearshore current or a wave-induced current is an important phenomenon in a nearshore zone, which is composed of longshore, cross-shore, and rip currents. The nearshore current is closely related to the occurrence of coastal accidents by beachgoers. A considerable number of coastal accidents by beachgoers involving the rip current have been reported at Jungmun Beach. However, in studies and observations of the nearshore current of Jungmun Beach, understanding of the rip current pattern remains unclear. In this study, a scientific approach is taken to understand the nearshore current and the rip current patterns at Jungmun Beach by numerical computation for year of 2015. From results of numerical computation, the occurrence and spatial characteristics of the rip current, and the similarities between the rip current and incident wave conditions are analyzed. The primary results of this study reveal that the rip currents are frequently generated at Jungmun Beach, especially in the western parts of the beach, and that the rip currents often occur with a wave breaking height of around 0.5 ~ 0.7 m, a wave period of around 6 ~ 8 seconds, and a breaking angle of around 0 ~ 15 degrees.