• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.139-147
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• 2021

In this study, waves were defined using the water surface elevation data observed from the HeMOSU-1 and 2 marine meteorological observation towers installed on the west coast of Korea, and correlation analysis was performed between wave parameters. The wave height and wave period were determined using the wave-train analysis method and the wave spectrum analysis method, and the relationship between the wave parameters was calculated and compared with the previous study. In the relation between representative wave heights, most of the correlation coefficients between waves showed a difference of less than 0.1% in error rate compared to the previous study, and the maximum wave height showed a difference of up to 29%. In addition, as a result of the correlation analysis between the wave periods, the peak period was estimated to be abnormally large at rates of 2.5% and 1.3% in HeMOSU-1&2, respectively, due to the effect of the bimodal spectrum that occurs when the spectral energy density is small.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.286-297
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• 2018

In the present study, wave measurements at KOGA-W01 were analyzed and then the numerical wind waves simulations have been conducted to investigate the characteristics of wind waves in the Yellow sea. According to the present analysis, even though the location of the wave stations are close to the coastal region, the deep water waves are prevailed due to the short fetch length. Chun and Ahn's (2017a, b) numerical model has been extended to the Yellow Sea in this study. The effects of tide and tidal currents should be included in the model to accommodate the distinctive effect of large tidal range and tidal current in the Yellow Sea. The wave hindcasting results were compared with the wave measurements collected KOGA-W01 and Kyeockpo. The comparison shows the reasonable agreements between wave hindcastings and measured data, however the model significantly underestimate the wave period of swell waves from the south due to the narrow computational domain. Despite the poorly prediction in the significant wave period of swell waves which usually have small wave heights, the estimation of the extreme wave height and corresponding wave period shows good agreement with the measurement data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.381-387
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• 2014

Recently the large-height swell-like waves generated in the eastern coast of South Korea have been observed frequently. The characteristics of the runup and overtopping of the large-height swell-like waves formed in deep water and attack the coast, causing damages to both lives and facilities have been studied. The correlation between spectral shape parameters and significant wave height has been investigated by analyzing long term wave spectrum data. Numerical runup experiments using MIKE21 BW Module were performed with $Q_p$, additional shape parameter, and identified the variations and characteristics of runup heights with respect to the variations of spectral shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2011

Wave overtopping reef system with guide vanes convert incident wave energy on the reef type structures into electric power. Previous studies decided shape parameters likes slope, height of the sloping arm and shape of guide vane. In this paper, using these shape parameters produce 1/7 scale model and construct integration scale model system combining water pressure head turbine, power generation, power control, operating control and monitoring system. In these systems, we measure the overtopping and power generation with different wave heights and periods and compare the results with the previous studies. This was confirmed designed overtopping and power generation, then we suggest efficient control system.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.397-404
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• 2014

In Korea, harbor tranquility is generally estimated by using both methods of investigating harbor calmness under abnormal wave condition and evaluating the harbor serviceability. The efficiency of the former method is questionable as the tranquility of a harbor is judged by a wave height criterion that is arbitrarily determined without rational basis. In case of the latter method, the utilization rate of a harbor is estimated by using the exceedance probability of wave height or the distribution of wave heights and periods that is obtained from longterm measured or hindcasted wave data. Use of long-term data is desirable in order to guarantee the accuracy of the exceedance probability. Meanwhile, the criterion for determining maximum allowable wave height for cargo handling works is too simple and has limitations for being used in an actual field condition. Problems of existing method for estimating harbor tranquility were verified by the wave observation data in Busan New Port. And the importance of the field observation data was emphasized. It is necessary to perform long-term wave monitoring inside and outside of major ports in Korea in order to establish more advanced standard for evaluating harbor tranquility based on such observed wave data.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.573-584
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• 2013

This study experimentally investigated the change in distribution of wave pressure on the front wall according to the variation of the front wall porosity of the caisson breakwater having the cap of wave chamber. First, the wave pressure for the non-porous caissson corresponding to zero porosity was measured and compared with the pressure formula suggested by Goda(1974). The analysis showed that the measured pressure distribution fairly well agreed with the Goda formula, which confirmed the accurate measurement of wave pressure in the present experiment. In case of the porous caisson, meanwhile, the experiment was performed by varying the front wall porosity as 0.2, 0.25, and 0.3. The wave pressure distribution at the front wall showed little difference according to the porosity for most of the test wave conditions, whereas the pressure slightly increased with the porosity for some test waves whose wave heights and periods were relatively large. However, the difference according to the porsosity was insignificant for the wave force at the front wall.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.342-354
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• 2008

Some statistical characteristics of deepwater waves along the Korean coast have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relation between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The mean and standard deviation of the principal deepwater wave direction are presented at the 106 coastal grid points along the Korean coast. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter $s_{max}$ is expressed as a lognormal distribution. The most suitable frequency spectrum in the Korean coast is the TMA spectrum. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor $\gamma$ is also expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.94, which is close to the value in the North Sea.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.9-31
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• 2007

Most seismic sea waves in the East Sea originate from earthquakes occurring near the Japanese west coast. While the waves propagate in the East Sea, they are deformed by refraction, diffraction and scattering. Though the Boussinesq equation is most applicable for such wave phenomena, it was not used in numerical modelling of seismic sea waves in the East Sea. To examine characteristics of seismic sea waves in the East Sea, numerical models based on the Boussinesq equation are established and used to simulate recent tsunamis. By considering Ursell parameter and Kajiura parameter, it is proved that Boussinesq equation is a proper equation for seismic sea waves in the East Sea. Two models based on the Boussinesq equation and linear wave equation are executed with the same initial conditions and grid size ($1min{\times}1min$), and the results are compared in various respects. The Boussinesq equation model produced better results than the linear model in respect to wave propagation and concentration of wave energy. It is also certified that the Boussinesq equation model can be used for operational purpose if it is optimized. Another Boussinesq equation model whose grid size is $40sec{\times}30sec$ is set up to simulate the 1983 and 1993 tsunamis. As the result of simulation, new propagation charts of 2 seismic sea waves focused on the Korean east coast are proposed. Even though the 1983 and 1993 tsunamis started at different areas, the propagation paths near the Korean east coast are similar and they can be distinguished into 4 paths. Among these, total energy and propagating time of the waves passing over North Korea Plateau(NKP) and South Korea Plateau(SKP) determine wave height at the Korean east coast. In case of the 1993 tsunami, the wave passing over NKP has more energy than the wave over SKP. In case of the 1983 tsunami, the huge energy of the wave passing over SKP brought about great maximum wave heights at Mukho and Imwon. The Boussinesq equation model established in this study is more useful for simulation of seismic sea waves near the Korean east coast than it is the Japanese coast. To improve understanding of seismic sea waves in shallow water, a coastal area model based on the Boussinesq equation is also required.

• Journal of Korean Society of Disaster and Security
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.19-31
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• 2023

According to the climate change scenarios, the intensity of typhoons, a major factor in Korea's natural disaster, is expected to increase. The increase in typhoon intensity leads to a rise in wave heights, which is likely to cause large-scale disasters in coastal regions with high populations and building density for dwelling, industry, and tourism. This study, therefore, analyzed observation data of the Donghae ocean data buoy and conducted a numerical model simulation for wave estimations for the typhoon MAYSAK (202009) period, which showed the maximum significant wave height. The boundary conditions for wave simulations were a JMA-MSM wind field and a wind field applying the typhoon central pressure reduction rate in the SSP5-8.5 climate change scenario. As a result of the wave simulations, the wave height in front of the breakwater at Sokcho port was increased by 15.27% from 4.06 m to 4.68 m in the SSP5-8.5 scenario. Furthermore, the return period at the location of 147-2 grid point of deep-sea design wave was calculated to increase at least twice, it is necessary to improve the deep-sea design wave of return period of 50-year, which is prescriptively applied when designing coastal structures.