• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.67-75
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• 1986

This paper introduces the nonlinear Stream Function Wave Theory for design waves efficiently to compute the wave energy and energy transport quantities and to analyze the effects of nonlinearities on them. The Stream Function Wave Theory was developed by Dean for case of the observed waves with assymmetric wave profiles and of the design waves with symmetric theoretical wave profiles. Dalrymple later improved the computational procedure by adding two Lagrangian constraints so that more efficient convergence of the iterative numerical method to a specified wave height and to a zero mean free surface displacement resulted. And the Stream Function coefficients are computed numerically by the improved Marquardt algorithm developed for this study. As the result of this study the effects of nonlinearities on the wave quantities of the average potential energy density, the average kinetic energy density result in overestimation by linear wave theory compared to the Stream Function Wave Theory and increase monotonically with decreasing $L^*/L_O$ and with increasing $H/H_B$. The effects of nonlinearities on the group velocity and the wavelength quantities result in underestimation by linear wave theory and increase monotonically with increasing $H/H_B$. Finally the effect of nonlinearity on the average total energy flux results in overestimation for shallow water waves and underestimation for deep water waves by linear wave theory.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.191-199
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• 2013

It is estimated and analyzed that the design wave height and the confidence interval (hereafter CI) according to the return period using the fourteen-year wave data obtained at Pusan New Port. The functions used in the extreme value analysis are the Gumbel function, the Weibull function, and the Kernel function. The CI of the estimated wave heights was predicted using one of the Monte-Carlo simulation methods, the Bootstrap method. The analysis results of the estimated CI of the design wave height indicate that over 150 years of data is necessary in order to satisfy an approximately ${\pm}$10% CI. Also, estimating the number of practically possible data to be around 25~50, the allowable error was found to be approximately ${\pm}$16~22% for Type I PDF and ${\pm}$18~24% for Type III PDF. Whereas, the Kernel distribution method, a typical non-parametric method, shows that the CI of the method is below 40% in comparison with the CI of the other methods and the estimated design wave height is 1.2~1.6 m lower than that of the other methods.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.381-387
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• 2014

Recently the large-height swell-like waves generated in the eastern coast of South Korea have been observed frequently. The characteristics of the runup and overtopping of the large-height swell-like waves formed in deep water and attack the coast, causing damages to both lives and facilities have been studied. The correlation between spectral shape parameters and significant wave height has been investigated by analyzing long term wave spectrum data. Numerical runup experiments using MIKE21 BW Module were performed with $Q_p$, additional shape parameter, and identified the variations and characteristics of runup heights with respect to the variations of spectral shape.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.296-306
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• 2020

It has been reported that the wave heights measured by Wave and Tide gauges (WTG) have been underestimated, and thus it is important to improve its measuring accuracy for enhancing estimation of harbor tranquility. In this study, the significant wave heights from WTG were calibrated using measured data from AWAC and Waverider buoys moored at the same four locations with the WTG. It was observed that the product of significant wave height and peak wave period, HT, was not underestimated but linearly proportional between the measurements by two instruments. This linearity was applied to develop 3^rd order polynomial functions that best represented the relationship between HT and significant wave heights measured by WTG. These functions were then applied to calibrate the WTG significant wave heights that were lower than 0.7 m, the critical value established for the low waves in this study. The results showed that the linearity between the AWAC (or Waverider buoy) and calibrated wave heights were improved, and the magnitude of underestimated WTG wave heights were increased to be more realistic. The results of this study are expected to be effectively applied for other data sets obtained by WTG only, to increase the observation accuracy of WTG and to improve the estimation of harbor tranquility.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.3B
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• pp.323-334
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• 2008

Present study examined the functionality of the solitary wave (tsunami) control of the two-rowed porous submerged breakwater by numerical experiments, using a numerical wave tank which is based on the Navier-Stokes equation to explain fluid fields and uses a Volume of Fluid (VOF) method to capture the free water surface. Solitary wave was generated by the internal wave source installed within the computational zone in the numerical wave tank and its wave transformations by structure were compared with those in the previous study. Comparisons with the precious numerical results showed a good agreement. Based on these results, several tow-dimensional numerical modeling investigations of the water fields, including wave transformations, reflection, transmission and energy flux, by the one- and two-rowed permeable submerged breakwater under solitary waves were performed. Even if, it is a research of the limited scope, in case of two-rowed permeable submerged breakwater with $h_0/h=0.925$ ($h_0$ is height of submerged breakwater and h is water depth), the wave height damping in range of $l/L_{eff}>0.4$($L_{eff}$ is effective distance of solitary wave) can reach nearly 60% of the incident wave height. In addition, it is found that reflection coefficient increases nearly 47% and transmission coefficient decreases nearly 18% than one-rowed one. The numerical results revealed that the tow-rowed submerged breakwater can control the incident solitary wave economically and more efficiently than the one-rowed one.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.51-64
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• 2002

To investigate long-period wave responses in Sokcho Harbor and Cheongcho lagoon, field measurements were made for long-and short-period waves and current velocities using a Directional Waverider, a ultrasonic-type wave gauge, four pressure-type wave gauges, and a current meter. From the data analysis, it was found that the Helmholtz resonant periods of Sokcho Harbor and Cheongcho lagoon are about 13.6 and 54.5 minutes, respectively, and the dominant period of wave induced current in the passage between Sokcho Harbor and Cheongcho lagoon is about 55.2 minutes which depends on Helmholtz resonant condition of the Cheongcho lagoon. It was also found that the energy level of the far-infra-gravity waves during storm conditions is very high compared with that during calm sea conditions. To investigate relationships between far-infra-gravity waves and short-period waves at offshore station, regression analyses were carried out especially for 1) heights, 2) periods, 3) direction and height, 4) height and period between short-and far-infra-gravity waves, respectively. The results showed that the long-period wave height is highly correlated with the short-period wave height. However, no special trend was found for the other relations. In the future far-infra-gravity wave heights on return period around Sokcho Harbor region can be suggested by using extreme value analyses of long term measured data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.131-139
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• 2014

Infra-gravity waves (IGWs) with a period of 1~3 minutes are a factor that directly influences the motion analysis of moored ships inside a harbor and longshore sediment transport analysis. If significant levels of IGWs from far seas are transferred to a harbor and amplified, they may cause downtime of large ships and induce economic loss. In this study, transfer characteristics of the IGWs intruding from outside to inside Pohang New Harbor were analyzed using statistical analysis and transfer function of wave data measured at both outside and inside the harbor for around 5 years. Transfer characteristic analysis was limited to events where IGWs had wave heights above 0.1 m. The wave height distribution of inside the harbor was similar to that of outside the harbor, while the wave period variance of the former was larger than that of the latter. The parameters of the transfer function was optimally estimated according to each event. The estimated average RMS error of the wave height inside the harbor was around 0.013 m. The estimated parameters had a strong correlation with the linear combination information of IGW wave height, period, and direction (R = 0.95). The transfer function suggested in this study can quickly and easily estimate information on IGWs inside the harbor using IGW information predicted beforehand, and is expected to reduce damage due to unexpected restrictions on harbor usage.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.163-169
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• 2012

In this paper, model test on the Tapdong's revetment at Jeju-si has been conducted to figure out the causes of frequent occurrence of wave overtopping and to suggest the action plan. In the model test, the reflection coefficients were measured according to the change of wave periods for with and without armor stones. Also, the wave overtopping rate and the wave pressures inside revetment structure for 4 types of upper block were estimated for various wave heights and wave periods, which are chosen based on the NE design wave with 50 year return period. It is found that the increase of the upper structure's height and the modification of the curved protruding shape are effective in reducing the overtopping rate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.38-43
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• 2006

The 3-D modeling of ocean finite element method(OFEM) using $k-{\varepsilon}$ turbulent model and tetrahedron grids has been used to investigate the internal wave generation during the expansion of the deep water from the open sea to the shelf with a simple shape, which can be widely used in the fields of submarine development, ocean environment and meteorology, etc. In this paper, the detailed configuration of internal wave with its length and height and also the distribution of salinity and turbulent kinematic energy, etc. were derived. It is hoped that this OFEM method can be successfully applied to the numerical calculation of internal wave for and the oceanographic problems (tidal flows around underwater hill, plateau, Georges Bank, etc.) and ocean engineering problems(flow past artificial sea reefs) in future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.91-96
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• 2008

A reflected breakwater can be affected by wave pressure and power because it is to be concentrated by wave energy. The present study is to estimate hydraulic behavior affecting around a reflected breakwater, which is discontinuity cases and various angle of coner at the breakwater. The numerical model to investigate wave diffraction, which is important hydraulic factor in the ocean, is performed by using direct boundary element method. The present numerical results are compared with the solutions of approximate and absolute based on an eigenfunction, and the solution of analytical by Fresnel integral. The results of the present numerical simulation agreed well with those of the published numerical and analytical data. As a result of this study, wave height is high at the comer of breakwater, and it is to be high if angle of conner at the reflected breakwater is small.