• Korea Journal of Cosmetic Science
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.21-31
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• 2020

The aim of this study is to develop a sunscreen stick formulation technology with excellent water resistance and washability. Consumers' needs for sunscreen products are diversifying. Water resistance and ease of washing are both important factors in sunscreen products. However, it is difficult to develop a sunscreen formulation that satisfies these two factors at the same time, because these two elements are in conflict. Fatty acid has a hydrophobic property against the water with low or neutral pH, but when it contacts with soapy water which has high pH, saponification occurs and the fatty acids become surfactants and can be dispersed in the water. Using the reaction characteristics of fatty acids, we can make sunscreen that is highly resistant to water or sweat, but is only selectively removed from soapy water. We found that the sunscreen stick containing fatty acids had better water resistance and washability than the sunscreen sticks without fatty acid. The sunscreen stick containing fatty acids showed a tendency to improve water resistance by scattering ultraviolet rays of long wavelength area by forming insoluble precipitation with divalent ions in tap water after immersion. In addition, an increase in the fatty acid content tended to also increase the ease of cleaning the sunscreen stick. Solid fatty acid was advantageous in improving water resistance than liquid fatty acid, but there was no difference between solid fatty acids and liquid fatty acid in washability. When it comes to stability, the sunscreen stick using liquid fatty acids maintained a high hardness and melting point, and showed no sweating. Based on this study, it is possible to develop an easy washable sunscreen stick formulation technology that has excellent water resistance but is selectively removed only in soapy water.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.349-354
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• 2023

Sunscreen is a product that protects against ultraviolet rays by blocking and scattering ultraviolet rays, and has now become a daily necessity beyond cosmetics. Applying sunscreen is a common and easy way to prevent skin damage caused by ultraviolet rays. Due to its significance, the evaluation of sunscreen has evolved since its regulation by the FDA in 1978, progressing to standardized methods established by ISO. Additionally, to assess the loss of sunscreen due to activities such as water exposure or sweating, the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety in Korea and ISO have established protocols for evaluating the water-resistant sun protection factor (SPF). However, existing evaluations of water resistance have been mainly confined to test methods involving plain water, and methods accounting for the impact of seawater during activities like beach leisure, sports, and recreation are yet to be established. Based on the existing guidelines for testing the water-resistant UV protection index, this study compared the water-resistant UV protection index in water, artificial seawater (salt water) and natural seawater (sea water) to evaluate the UV protection index in real-world situations such as marine leisure, sports, and leisure activities. Through these results, we were able to compare the differences between water resistance sun protection index tests in ordinary water, artificial seawater, and natural seawater, and suggest a method for water resistance sun protection index tests using natural seawater.

• Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.127-132
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• 2015

Perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) are persistent environmental pollutants, extremely stable, and possibly adversely affect human health. They are widely used in many industries and consumer goods, including sunscreen products. These substances are stable chemicals made of long carbon chains, having both lipid- and water-repellent qualities. The research objectives are (1) to find the most effective method for the preparation of semi-liquid samples by comparing solid phase extraction (SPE) and centrifugation after Pressurized liquid extraction (PLE), and (2) to determine the contamination levels of PFOS and PFOA in waterproof sunscreen samples. All sunscreen samples were analyzed by liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Sunscreen samples were purchased from domestic and international brands sold in Thailand. Special chemical properties were considered for the selection of samples, e.g., those found in waterproof, sweat resistant, water resistant, and non-stick products. Considering the factors of physical properties, e.g., operation time, chemical consumption, and recovery percentage for selecting methods to develop, the centrifugation method using 2 mL of extracted sample with the conditions of 12,000 rpm and $5^{\circ}C$ for 1 hour after PLE was chosen. The highest concentrations of PFOS and PFOA were detected at 0.0671 ng/g and 21.0644 ng/g, respectively. Even though present concentrations are found at ng/g levels, the daily use of sunscreen products is normally several grams. Therefore, a risk assessment of PFOS and PFOA contamination in sunscreen products is an important concern, and more attention needs to be paid to the long-term effects on human health.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.199-208
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• 2019

This study reports water-resistant oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion-based sunscreening formulations prepared using a poly(ethylene glycol)-poly(${\varepsilon}$-caprolactone)-poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG-PCL-PEG) triblock polymeric surfactant. As a result of a variety of outdoor recreational activities such as swimming and hiking, consumer needs for development of advanced water-resistant sunscreen formulations are increasing. Water-resistant sunscreens are mostly based on water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, because they should not be wiped off by water or sweat. However, the W/O emulsion formulations have a disadvantage in that the feeling of use is oily and difficult to remove. On the other hand, the O/W emulsion formulations are excellent in achieving the better skin feel as well as the easier removal. However, it is difficult to provide the O/W emulsion formulations with the water-repelling performance, since re-emulsification likely occurs upon getting touch with water. To solve this problem, this study proposes a O/W emulsion-based sunscreen formulation, a triblock polymeric surfactant having relatively high interfacial tension HLB value (~ 10). This allows the sunscreen formulations to exhibit the improved water repellence function by preventing their re-emulsification. The sunscreen formation system prepared in this study would be useful for diversification of functional sunscreen products, taking advantages of its excellent emulsion stability, UV protection performance, long lasting water-resistant function and selective cleansing effect with only foam cleanser.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.63-66
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• 2008

Sunscreen is usually used by people when they are at the beach or outdoor swimming pools. Since the existing methods of and standards for measuring the effects of blocking ultra violet rays do not employ water resistance test methods, the establishment of a water resistance SPF test method is required. In this study, to standardize the SPF evaluation methods for a water resistant sunscreen, proposed measurement methods in this study were compared with those of foreign countries. Selected water resistance SPF experiments confirmed the product's suitability and a verification test was then conducted by establishing the variables of water resistance SPF measurement methods. In the comparative experiment on water resistance SPF given a water temperature of $23{\sim}32$ degrees centigrade showed that temperature did not have any statistically significant effect on water resistance SPF. The changing water flow also did not have any statistically significant effect on the water resistance SPF. Therefore, continuous 20 min water circulation is deemed appropriate as an alternative to the subject's usual activity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.247-258
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• 2023

This study aims to investigate the enhancement of water resistance and improvement in adhesion to the skin by combining dextrin palmitate and isopropyl titanium triisostearate coating materials with titanium dioxide. Due to the recent increase in consumers who enjoy outdoor activities, the demand for sunscreen with excellent water resistance is increasing. Prior research was conducted with O/W, Pickering, and W/O/W multiple formulations, but there was a limit to water resistance. The purpose of this study is to develop a complex inorganic powder that can improve water resistance and increase adhesion to the skin to solve this problem. First, we combined dextrin palmitate and isopropyl titanium triisostearate coating materials to form a composite with titanium dioxide. The coating of the inorganic powder was confirmed using FE-SEM and FT-IR analysis. The composite exhibited significantly higher in vitro water resistance compared to other formulations. The hydrophobicity of the coated inorganic powder was compared by measuring the contact angles. When the coated inorganic powder was applied to the W/O sunscreen formulation and the non-coated inorganic powder was applied to the W/O sunscreen formulation as a control, the SPF of the sunscreen containing the coated inorganic powder was higher. These results were the same when observed with a UV camera. Finally the adhesion of the coated inorganic powder to the skin was assessed by applying it to a foundation product. In vivo study, it was observed that the product formulated with the coated powder exhibited less smudging compared to the foundation product formulated with the non-coated powder. The developed inorganic powder in this study demonstrated excellent adhesion to the skin, providing a superior sensory experience, as well as enhanced hydrophobicity and remarkable water resistance effects. In the future, the result of this study is expected to help develop various sunscreen products to improve water resistance.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.417-430
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• 2003

A new method was developed to prepare microcapsules involving hydrophobic components. A totally new "silicone-resin-polypeptide" was used as the wall materials. The polypeptide was made by hydrolysis of collagen and silk protein and so on, and that was combined with silicone. This microcapsule was easily prepared from silicone-resin-polypeptide in water solution. The ratio of encapsulation in the microcapsule was not only high level as 90％, which had never been reached, but also the particle size could be controlled to obtain very small size (average particle size: 2${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$). Moreover, these microcapsules were resistant to high shearing forces and were stable over a long time period. This stable microcapsule was not crushed in pressure with finger spreading, so the core materials hardly touch the skin directly. Application in cosmetics by using microcapsule involving UV absorbents (2-ethylhexy1-4-methoxycinnamate (OMC) and 4-tert-butyl-4' -methoxydibenzoyl-methane (BMDBM)) was examined. It was possible to apply organic UV absorbents in water-rich formulations without any surfactant by using this microcapsule. This formulation demonstrated a good moisturizing and soft skin feel. Therefore, the microcapsule was applied to hair care products. As a result, the sunscreen hair lotion with microcapsule was able to prevent from damaging and decoloring of hair color by UV rays. As just, it was suggested that this microcapsules were be widely applied in cosmetics.cosmetics.