• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.49-56
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• 1998

This study is on the fashion design of velve, concentrating on the kinds and the images of it. The velvet, the pile fabrics, includes velveteen, velour(s), corduroy and plush. Ancient Chinese invented it first but Westerners used it widely in fashion since 14C because of the deep colors and the glimmering lights. In 20C the developments of textile industry, the mass production and the dyeing techniques made it popularized as velvet fashion. The velvet must be handled carefully and stretch velvet in vogue today needs the different pattern design and the dressmaking from general fabrics. 'For example, 55 size (bust girth 33", waist girth 26", hip girth 36") Jacket for ladies of stretch velvet, 3/4"ease in the bust line is eliminated at the back on the block pattern after normal pattern design. The costume of velvet has the images of elegance, nostalgia, and oriental ism. It has established the high quality, rich and refined elegance of Haute Couture. It could express the image of nostalgia, the longing for the past with the remarkable splendor. The orientalism of velvet costumes has represented the westerner's aspiration and imagination about the Orient with the intense color and over-decoration.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.609-618
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the inconvenience when putting on stretch pants and to compare and analyze the pattern making method of pants made of the stretch and non-stretch fabric to develop functional and good looking stretch pants. For this study, we conducted a survey of women in their twenties and collected the basic data and master pattern through material of a woman's wear brand and the interview and questionnaires. The results of this study are as follows. First, the survey result for the woman consumers showed that pants were estimated as the most uncomfortable item among the stretch clothes and when they put the stretch pants on, the most uncomfortable parts of out-shell were the hip girth and rise. Secondly, the result of pattern making method of the pants was as follows. The ease of the stretch pants pattern was 0cm in the waist girth and -1 to -1.5cm in the hip girth more than non-stretch pants. The ease in crotch, inseam and outseam length was 0cm for both.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.119-130
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine differences between real somatotypes and cog-nitive somatotypes by considering the degree of satisfaction of body parts. The subjects were 250 middle-aged women from 40-54. Data was collected through anthropometry and surveys. Data was analyzed by correlation analysis anova duncan multiple range test factor analysis regression analysis crosstabulation analysis. The results were as follows: 1. Middle-aged women tend to prefer having a slim truck long and slim limbs and their hope was to be tall in height and light in weight slim at the waist and abdomen. 2. The consciousness about thickness was in-tensified more than that about length of the body. 3. The slim somatotype group were more satisfied with their body than those of obese somatotype group. 4. The average R hrer Index of middle-aged women is 1.55 and the slim somatotype group is 1.33 and the standard somatotype group is 1.53 obese somatotype group is 1.82. Age has much influence on the body change of middle-aged women. Especially 45-49 years old the slim body type declined heavily. 5. When analyzing the elements of body sat-isfaction the biggest elements are in the sub-ject of girth related to the expansion of trunk. Therefore trunk girth has more influence on body satisfaction than height and limbs. So the obession of trunk girth is the most important factor in body satisfaction. 6. Most middle-aged women although not judged to be obese by measurements believed themselves to be obese.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.35-48
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• 2004

In this study, by determining lower limb movements which cause significant changes in body surface lines, body parts with the greatest maximum expansion and contraction rate respectively were illustrated in descending order. Using unmarried female university students aged 18 - 24 as subjects, a total of 32 body surface categories (15 body surface lines and 17 body surface segment lines) were measured in one static and 9 movement poses. In particular, expansion and contraction levels and rates were measured and used in the analysis. The analysis first involved the calculation of the average measurement per body part in body surface line in static pose as well as of the average expansion and contraction levels and rates in 9 lower limb movements. Two-way MANOVA and multiple comparison analysis (Tukey) were conducted on movements and individual somatotypes regarding measurement per body part and expansion and contraction rates. Movements which cause measurements of body surface lines differed significantly in body surface line in static pose versus in movement were then identified. Among average expansion and contraction rates in such movements, maximum average expansion and contraction levels, maximum average expansion and contraction rate, and classes of expansion and contraction rate were determined per body part. The results of this study are as follows. First, 5 lower limb movements; F2, F5, F6, F7, F8, which caused significant changes in body surface lines were determined and illustrated in table 4. Second, the levels, rates, and classes of expansion and contraction rate per body part are illustrated in Tables 5 and 6. Body parts with the greatest maximum expansion rate were, in descending order: upper segment of center back leg line, upper segment of inner leg line, middle segment of center front leg line, posterior crotch length, anterior knee girth, anterior thigh girth, center back leg line, girth at crotch height, anterior midway thigh girth, hip girth, anterior crotch length, knee girth, waist girth, inner leg line, thigh girth, and crotch length. Those with the greatest maximum contraction rate were, in descending order: anterior crotch length, upper segment of center front leg line, lower segment of center back leg line, center front leg line, and posterior thigh girth. The maximum expansion rates and maximum contraction rates, which ranged from 2.05 to $35.95\%$ and from -0.20 to $-30.16\%$ respectively, were classified per body part into 4 ABCD classes. The body part with maximum expansion was the upper segment of the center back leg line at vertical body surface line, expanding by $35.95\%$ or 16.03cm in F5 flexion movement. In contrast, the body part with maximum contraction was the anterior crotch length at vertical body surface line, contracting by $-30.16\%$ or -10.54cm in F5 flexion movement. Both, however, were the body parts to expand or contract the most among all horizontal and vertical body surface lines.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.127-138
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• 1998

Through the recognition and the satisfaction of the lower part of the women body from age 30 to age 49 we studied 211 respondents of the women to analyze what lower part shape they want. The results are as follows. 1. The recognition of the lower Part showed certain degrees of differences in waist girth, abdomen girth, and weight according to the age. 2. The female of the 40s showed higher satisfaction of their lower part considering that of the 30s 3. The cluster analysis of the lower part shape of the 30s and 40s was classified into 5 types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.37-46
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• 1985

The study is undertaken to utilize the computer in pattern making for women. The automation by the use of computer provides the higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making. GIGI Graphic Terminal is used for pattern making. The results are as follows: 1. Basic points which can be connected to depict basic pattern are represented on the X-Y co-ordinates. 2. Body measurements for bodice and sleeve pattern are as follows: For bodice pattern: center back waist length, bust girth, and shoulder width. For sleeve pattern: arm hole length, wrist girth, and sleeve length. 3. Grading of standard size was accomplished by using same method.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.7
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• pp.119-127
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• 2002

Fitness of clothes becomes a major concern in apparel industry. In order to improve clothing fitness, it's very important to suggest a systematical sizing system. The Purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for junior-high school girls'lower clothes. The subjects were 402 middle-high school girls of 13 to 15 year-old. 4 clusters were categorized by cluster analysis and the sizing system was classified according to four lower body types. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3cm and 4cm respectively. The most frequent size were 64-86 in the short and small figure type 1,67-90 in the fattest figure type 2, 61-86 in the average size type 3 and 64-90 in type 4 taller than others types. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4%, was classified 9 cases, 11 cases, 8 cases and 9 cases respectively by lower body types. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.56-72
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to provide with the useful fundamental data by developing the appearl sizing system according to body types for the Women's Wear Specifications(GB/T 1335.2-1997), National Standards of People's Republic of China. Thus, it was to improve of the garment fit and coverage rate for the apparel production assortment and stock of exporting domestic clothing to China. For this study, 581 female women aged in their twenties who lived in Beijing and Shanghai were selected for the development of the apparel sizing system who resident in Beijing and Shanghai in China. As for the method of this study was made three primary items(length, bust girth, waist girth) and seven secondary items. Data analysis were processed by SPSS WIN 10.0 Program was used. The research selected 3 major body measurements, such as stature, bust girth, waist girth and 7 secondary measurements to investigate the body features of the Chinese adult women. The data throughout the study were analyzed by using SPSS WIN version 10.0 S/W. The result were as follows: The clothes dimensions for upper and lower body and the coverage rate of body size that had the highest appearance ratio from the selected age group in 20's were: Y-type 160-84 155-64(5.9%) and the section 160cm 22.6%, A-type 160-80 160-62(39%) and the section 160cm 27.9%, B-type 155-80 155-66(6.2%) and the section 160cm 24.7%. The representative size codes of the Chinese adult women aged in their 20's were set for representing certain body dimensions such as 150-76A 150-60A(0.0%), 155-80A 155-64A(2.4%), 160-84A 160-68A(3.9%), 165-88A 165-72A(0.3%), 170-92A 170-76A(0.0%). The production coverage rates for the each representative size codes were S size the section 150cm 1.5%, M size the section 155cm 15.3%, L size the section 160cm 36.0%, XL size the section 165cm 29.7%, XXL size the section 170cm 11.4% that covered 93.9%.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.103-114
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• 1998

This study was carried out on 132 obese women who satisfied both of the conditions for the obesity: over 1.6 in Rohrer index and over 90cm in bust girth. The purpose of the study was to classify the body types of the obese women and find out their respective characteristics. The characteristics of the body shape were as follows. The one was that the height of the front waist was higher than that of the back waist. The other was that the depth of the front abdomen was high, which implies the protruding of the abdominal region. Five factors were extracted as the result of the factor analysis. Body types were classified 4 types(type 1 : long upper torso, type 2 : obese torso, type 3 : short and less upper torso, type 4 : obese arms and legs) according to the cluster analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.11 s.158
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• pp.1507-1518
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• 2006

The middle-aged body differs from the youthful body and has its own body type due to the considerable difference in body structure by age. However, most ready-made clothes for middle-aged women are designed according to the youthful body types. They are looking for the better fitness of the ready-made clothes. Thus clothing fitness is strongly required for a middle-aged women. The purpose of this study is to analyze the basic characteristics of middle-aged women's body types and to compare the real somatotype and cognitive somatotype. The subjects are 238 middle-aged women between 35 and 49 years old living in Daegu. Data are collected through anthropometric measurement and questionnaire on somatotype from September to October 2004. The results are as follows: 1. Using factor analysis, cluster analysis is carried out and the subjects of this research are classified into 4 groups. 2. Middle-aged women usually are not satisfied with their body. Particularly, they show the lowest satisfaction measurement about their abdominal girth, weight, and overall body-shape in total 16 categories. 3. As a result of body cathexis for each part, women are usually not satisfied with their body parts for themselves, regardless of real somatotype. 4. As I divide middle-aged women's somatotype by Rohrer index into the groups of three body-types, then examine real somatotype and cognitive somatotype, I get the following result : The slimmer their bodies are, the more satisfied middle-aged women we. Besides, 40.3% of middle-aged women have an incorrect and distorted understanding of their somatotype. 5. As a result of this research for ideal state of body-size, the women shows their Ideal sizes as follow: 160.55cm for ideal height, 88.73cm for ideal bust girth, 71.14cm for ideal waist girth, 90.03cm for ideal hip girth, and 53kg for ideal weight.