• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.852-862
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• 2008

The purpose of this paper is to find how to do the width of skirt and the girth of the waist in the adequate pattern making for the obese women's skirt. Appearance test of the five experimental skirts was evaluated by the four experts in clothing construction. At the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the five types of experimental skirt with different size specifications. The results from the appearance test were as follows; when the width of skirt pattern is set for(the shell girth/2), it was suggested w/4+1(front), w/4(back) for girth of the waist. On one hand, in case of (the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front)/2 and(waist girth of back)/2 for obese women's skirt with the best appearance. As results, it was found that the width of skirt pattern for the obese women should be the greatest shell girth instead of hip girth. In the case of the hip girth, the amount of ease on hip was suggested 6cm. It was found that pattern with the wrinkle of ease was full of the gaps between body and skirt in 3D clothing air volume. In spreading out to 2D flat pattern from 3D scan data, when the width of skirt pattern was set for(the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front/2)+(the waist girth of back/2) than the shell girth/2 in girth of the waist for the best appearance. And the conversion of 3D scan data into 2D flat pattern in curve shape of crosswise had to spread out of the plane in straight line. The obese women's clothing should be manufactured with systematical consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.140-158
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• 1999

The purposes of this study are to examine the characters of the lower body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks pattern on the base of four difference body shapes. The lower body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouettes. The slacks patterns were based on the lower body shape characters and resulted in followings. In “Type 1” of the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(2.5㎝) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.5㎝+dart(3.5㎝). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-0.5㎝ due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. In the experimental pattern of “Type 2” with prominent hips, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0㎝ and 2.0㎝ separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+1.0㎝+fold(2.0㎝), the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.1㎝+dart(6.5㎝), the front hip girth H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. In “Type 3” with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(4.5㎝) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+dart(3.0㎝). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.5㎝-0.5㎝. In “Type 4” with prominent abdomen and hips, considered were ① the increased front fold amount due to the abdominal protrusion, ② the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and ③ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5㎝+2.0㎝+fold(5.0㎝), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5㎝-2.0㎝+dart(4.0㎝), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

• Proceedings of the ESK Conference
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• 1997.10a
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• pp.40-55
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• 1997

The purpose of this study are to examine the characters of the lower half body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks patttern on the base of four difference body shapes as follows. The lower half body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouette, whose characters were summarized as followings. (1) "Type 1" meant the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips. (2) "Type 2" showed the body shape with prominent hips, which had the flat abdominal silhouette and the greatly curved hips silhouette. (3) "Type 3" was the body shape with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, in which the frontal view silhouette of the abdomen was greatly curved and the rear view silhouette of hips is less curved. (4) "Type 4" was characterized with prominent abdomen and hips. The slaks patterns were based on the lower half body shape characters and resulted in followings. (1) In the type 1, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4{\times}0.5cm+0.5cm+fold(2.5cm) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-0.5cm+dart(3.5cm). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0cm+0.5cm and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0cm-0.5cm due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. (2) In the type 2 experimental pattern, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0cm and 2.0cm separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5cm+ 1.0cm+fold(2.0cm), the back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-1.0cm+dart(6.5cm), the front hip girth H/4+2.0cm+1.0cm and the back hip girth H/4+2.0cm-1.0cm. (3) In type 3, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5cm+0.5cm+fold (4.5cm) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5cm+0.5cm+dart(3.0cm). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5cm+0.5cm and the back hip girth H/4+2.5cm-0.5cm. (4) In type 4, considered were $\circled1$ the increased fornt fold amount due to the abdonimal protrusion, $\circled2$ the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and $\circled3$ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5cm+2.0cm+flod (5.0cm), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5cm-20.cm+dart(4.0cm), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0cm+1.0cm and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0cm-1.0cm. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.279-288
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper was to find out obese women's respective characteristics of torso body shape. The subjects were 132 obese women for direct measurement and were 101 obese women for indirect measurement, age of 20~59. The criterial of obesity base on Rohrer index($\geq$1.6) and busts girth ($\leq$90). The results were as follows : 1) In comparison with the average body shapes in common body types, in 30's was bigger in the bust and waist girth than the different age groups. 2) According to the difference in the basic girth(bust and waist girth, hip and bust girth, hip and waist girth) the body types were classified 2 groups. Types 1 was large bust and slightly curved from waist to hip. Type 2 was large hip and larger in the curve from waist to hip than type 1.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.621-631
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• 1974

The objective of the study was to obtain standard sizes of body of the high school girls for designing clothes and developing pattern grading of clothes. In 1972, 342 students, selected by the stratified cluster random sampling method, at three high schools in Seoul were measured on forty-one items by the R. Martin method. Statistical techniques of mean, standard deviation, coefficient variable, maximum and minimum, range, t-test were utilized to analyze the data. The findings of the study were as follows ; 1. No differences were found among the age groups in the all measured variables. 2. Stature, bust girth, hip girth, acromion width, posterior waist girth/stature ratio of the high school girls were significantly smaller than those sizes of adult women. This result implies that those sizes will be increased as the students grow up. But upper arm girth, upper arm girth/bust girth ratio, and thigh girth/bust girth ratio were bigger than those sizes of adult women. Waist girth, thigh girth, total head height/stature ratio, acromion width/stature ratio, and foot length/stature ratio were nearly similiar to those of adult women. 3. According to the result of t-test, waist breadth, spinailiaca anterior height/stature ratio, thigh girth/bust girth ratio, and thigh/hip girth ratio of the 15 year old group were significantly different from those of the 16 year old group at the level of 0.05. Bust girth, weight, foot breadth, posterior croth length, and cervical height/stature ratio of the 16 year old group were significantly different from those of the 17 year old group at the level of 0.01. Hip girth, upper arm girth, waist breadth/stature ratio, and neck base girth/bust girth ratio of the 16 year old group were significantly different from those of the 17 year old group at the level of 0.05.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.699-714
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to suggest a methodology to grasp the design method of industrial slacks pattern for women in their early twenties. The result of this study is as follows: 1. The result of the questionnaire showed that the design of rear center gradient was most important and the rear center gradient was designed by shifting waist line and hip line to a suitable degree.; below the waist by 4cm, the girth was measured and the ease of $0{\sim}1cm$ was applied to it, and the ease of hip girth was $3.2{\pm}1.2cm$, and rear center gradient was $2.2{\pm}1cm$, and front crotch extension was $2.8{\pm}0.5cm$, while rear crotch extension was $6.3{\pm}0.5cm$. 2. By comparing rear center gradient which was selected as an important design item with total crotch length and hip girth, I selected industrial pattern and educational pattern, and evaluated them on human bodies. In the result of ANOVA analysis, there were meaningful differences in 8 items: the ease of front waist girth, the ease of front abdomen, the ease of front hip girth, rumples in the side lines, the location of rear waist line, etc. 3. The design method of slacks pattern suitable for women in their early twenties was suggested as follows: the location of waist girth is below waist by $2.5{\sim}3cm$; the ease of waist girth is $0{\sim}1cm$; the ease of hip girth is $2{\sim}3cm$; total crotch length is body size - 5cm; rear center gradient is $2.5{\pm}0.5cm$; rear crotch extension is $7{\pm}0.5cm$; front crotch extension is 3cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2000

This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1205-1220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.66-82
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• 2003

China shows body size differences owing to varied climates, economic development, living standards, and ethnic distribution from region to region. That's why some regional research regarding body sizes is necessary for the advancement of clothing goods into China. Here, the materials of the Chinese standard "GB/T 1335-1997 Clothing Sizes" are analyzed to reveal the somatotypes of Chinese adults. Height, chest girth and waist girth were differently noticed in six areas. 1. The distribution rates of four body types (Y, A, B, C) were diverse in six regions. 2. Regional differences were seen as follows: 1) As for the height of male adults, areas 1(Northeast, Hwabuk) and 2(Central Western) were larger than the national mean. Areas 3(Gwangdong, Gwangseo, Bokgeon), 4 (Unnam, Gwiju, Sacheon) and 5(Downstream Jang River) were rather small. 2) As for the height of female adults, areas 1, 2 and 6 (Midstream Jang River) were larger than the national mean. Areas 3 and 4 were smaller than the average. 3) As for the bust girth of male adults, area 1 was the only area that exceeded the national mean. Areas 3 and 4 turned out smaller than the average. 4) As for the bust girth of female adults, areas 1, 2 and 6 exceeded the national average. The other three areas were lower. 5) As to the waist girth of adult males, areas 1 and 2 exceeded the national average. The other four areas were lower. 6) As to the waist girth of adult females, areas 1, 2 and 6 exceeded the national average. Areas 4 and 5 were lower. 7) In the height, bust girth and waist girth of male and female adults, most regions showed differences in means, regional distribution and regional rates.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.887-895
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• 2014

The study provides baseline data on developing ready-to-wear clothes for adult females in their twenties who have finished shaping their bodies and have realized an ideal shape. We analyzed the data from females aged from 20 to 29 in "The $5^{th}$ Size Korea Survey" and "The $6^{th}$ Size Korea Survey", and sorted body shapes into several types according to drop values before analyzing and comparing the characteristics among groups. We also referred to the change by year in the size of upper inner wear. To classify body shapes, three drop values were assigned for bust girth - waist girth, hip girth - waist girth, hip girth - bust girth; through cluster analysis all data were classified into three body types. Type 1 is more like normal body shapes with small drop values at the bust girth - waist girth and well-build lower body. Type 2 is X-shaped body shaped like a fiddle with big drop values at all parts. Type 3 is Y-shaped body with a big drop value at the bust girth - waist girth and well-build upper body. Type 2, X-shaped body, has the majority of distribution in every year, which proved to be the most idealistic body shape. There was a change in the brassiere cup size. Korean ladies in their twenties have larger breasts. The body shapes of Korean females in their twenties are increasingly like those of westerners. Bust girth is a very critical element to set measurements and design patterns for upper wear; consequently, a change in the size of breasts should be considered.