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A study on the basic slacks pattern for middled aged women based on their lower body shape analysis (중년여성의 하반신 체형분류에 따른 슬랙스 원형 제작)

  • 정인향;함옥상
    • Proceedings of the ESK Conference
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    • 1997.10a
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    • pp.40-55
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study are to examine the characters of the lower half body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks patttern on the base of four difference body shapes as follows. The lower half body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouette, whose characters were summarized as followings. (1) "Type 1" meant the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips. (2) "Type 2" showed the body shape with prominent hips, which had the flat abdominal silhouette and the greatly curved hips silhouette. (3) "Type 3" was the body shape with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, in which the frontal view silhouette of the abdomen was greatly curved and the rear view silhouette of hips is less curved. (4) "Type 4" was characterized with prominent abdomen and hips. The slaks patterns were based on the lower half body shape characters and resulted in followings. (1) In the type 1, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4{\times}0.5cm+0.5cm+fold(2.5cm) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-0.5cm+dart(3.5cm). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0cm+0.5cm and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0cm-0.5cm due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. (2) In the type 2 experimental pattern, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0cm and 2.0cm separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5cm+ 1.0cm+fold(2.0cm), the back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-1.0cm+dart(6.5cm), the front hip girth H/4+2.0cm+1.0cm and the back hip girth H/4+2.0cm-1.0cm. (3) In type 3, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5cm+0.5cm+fold (4.5cm) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5cm+0.5cm+dart(3.0cm). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5cm+0.5cm and the back hip girth H/4+2.5cm-0.5cm. (4) In type 4, considered were $\circled1$ the increased fornt fold amount due to the abdonimal protrusion, $\circled2$ the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and $\circled3$ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5cm+2.0cm+flod (5.0cm), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5cm-20.cm+dart(4.0cm), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0cm+1.0cm and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0cm-1.0cm. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

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Development of Skirt Pattern for the Middle Aged Women of Obese using the 3-Dimension Technology (3차원을 이용한 중년 비만 여성용 스커트 설계 방법론 연구)

  • Sohn, Boo-Hyun;Kim, So-Young
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.16 no.5
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    • pp.852-862
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this paper is to find how to do the width of skirt and the girth of the waist in the adequate pattern making for the obese women's skirt. Appearance test of the five experimental skirts was evaluated by the four experts in clothing construction. At the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the five types of experimental skirt with different size specifications. The results from the appearance test were as follows; when the width of skirt pattern is set for(the shell girth/2), it was suggested w/4+1(front), w/4(back) for girth of the waist. On one hand, in case of (the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front)/2 and(waist girth of back)/2 for obese women's skirt with the best appearance. As results, it was found that the width of skirt pattern for the obese women should be the greatest shell girth instead of hip girth. In the case of the hip girth, the amount of ease on hip was suggested 6cm. It was found that pattern with the wrinkle of ease was full of the gaps between body and skirt in 3D clothing air volume. In spreading out to 2D flat pattern from 3D scan data, when the width of skirt pattern was set for(the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front/2)+(the waist girth of back/2) than the shell girth/2 in girth of the waist for the best appearance. And the conversion of 3D scan data into 2D flat pattern in curve shape of crosswise had to spread out of the plane in straight line. The obese women's clothing should be manufactured with systematical consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

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The Design of Slacks Pattern for Women in Early Twenties (20대 초반 여성을 위한 슬랙스 패턴 설계 연구)

  • Ryu, Sin-A;Shin, Dong-Ok;Park, Kil-Soon
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.14 no.5
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    • pp.699-714
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to suggest a methodology to grasp the design method of industrial slacks pattern for women in their early twenties. The result of this study is as follows: 1. The result of the questionnaire showed that the design of rear center gradient was most important and the rear center gradient was designed by shifting waist line and hip line to a suitable degree.; below the waist by 4cm, the girth was measured and the ease of $0{\sim}1cm$ was applied to it, and the ease of hip girth was $3.2{\pm}1.2cm$, and rear center gradient was $2.2{\pm}1cm$, and front crotch extension was $2.8{\pm}0.5cm$, while rear crotch extension was $6.3{\pm}0.5cm$. 2. By comparing rear center gradient which was selected as an important design item with total crotch length and hip girth, I selected industrial pattern and educational pattern, and evaluated them on human bodies. In the result of ANOVA analysis, there were meaningful differences in 8 items: the ease of front waist girth, the ease of front abdomen, the ease of front hip girth, rumples in the side lines, the location of rear waist line, etc. 3. The design method of slacks pattern suitable for women in their early twenties was suggested as follows: the location of waist girth is below waist by $2.5{\sim}3cm$; the ease of waist girth is $0{\sim}1cm$; the ease of hip girth is $2{\sim}3cm$; total crotch length is body size - 5cm; rear center gradient is $2.5{\pm}0.5cm$; rear crotch extension is $7{\pm}0.5cm$; front crotch extension is 3cm.

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Evaluation of Muscle Fatigue and Subjective Fatigue depending on the Hip Seat and Waist Support Band of Baby Carrier (아기 띠의 힙시트와 허리지지 유무에 따른 근피로도와 주관적 피로도 평가)

  • Lee, Heeran;Hong, Kyung Hwa
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.19 no.4
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    • pp.504-514
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    • 2017
  • Discomfort as well as muscular pain and musculoskeletal diseases occur in cases of stressed posture due to prolonged pressure. Therefore, the American Academy of Orthopaedic Surgeons (AAOS) and Pediatric Orthopaedic Society of North America (POSNA) recommend that bags that weigh no more than 15 - 20% of the wearer's weight. However, despite the prolonged pressure from using baby carriers, there are no recommendations and limited studies on how to protect wearers. Therefore, this study investigates subjective fatigue according to the usage of waist support and hip seat. Based on this, muscle fatigue and secondary subjective fatigue according to three types of currently commercial baby carriers (X-type, H-type, and H-hip type) were measured. Subjective comfortability was evaluated on a 5 point Likert-scale and subjective fatigue was evaluated on Borg's CR-10 scale. Objective muscle fatigue was also compared by measuring and analyzing electromyogram (EMG). The results of primary subjective fatigue showed statistically significant changes in the shoulders, waist, calves, and soles of the feet according to the usage of hip seats and waist support. Electromyogram measurements also showed less muscle fatigue at the upper trapezius muscle and thoracic erector spine muscle for the H-hip seat baby carrier, which has both waist support and hip seat, compared to an X-type baby carrier, which has neither. However, results of subjective fatigue showed opposite results at the waist despite having same results at the shoulders and beneath the shoulders. This show discrepancies between objective muscle fatigue and subjective fatigue; therefore, that both aspects must be taken into consideration when developing ergonomic baby carriers.

Difference of The Cardiac Structure and Function Depending on Obesity Level of Healthy Adults

  • Shin, Kyung-A;Hong, Seung-Bok
    • Biomedical Science Letters
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.141-149
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study was to find out any difference and correlation between the cardiac structure and its function according to the level of obesity as evaluated by waist measurement and BMI (body mass index) in healthy adults. For research subjects, the study selected a final 519 subjects excluding 198 subjects aged 55 or over out of 717 subjects who received echocardiography through a medical checkup at J General Hospital. For the criteria for obesity, men were defined as being obese in case their waist measurement was over 90 cm, whereas women were defined as being obese in case their waist measurement was over 80 cm. Also, regarding the BMI criteria, in case a person's BMI was 30 kg/$m^2$, the subject was classified as belonging to an obese group, and in case a person's BMI was between 25 kg/$m^2$ and 30 kg/$m^2$, the subject was classified as belonging to an overweight group. Concerning the evaluation of cardiac structure and function, they were evaluated using two-dimensional, M-mode, doppler echocardiography. According to the stage of obesity in accordance with waist measurement and BMI, the cardiac structure showed both eccentric and centripetal changes, and the cardiac function was also discovered to show differences according to the stage of obesity. In addition, also in the overweight group, which is a prior stage to obesity, out of the criteria for obesity classification according to BMI, there were differences in the cardiac structure and function. Also, both the waist measurement and BMI were found to have a correlation with cardiac structure and diastolic function. Consequently, cardiac structure and function are correlated with BMI and waist measurement, which are anthropometrical variables, and obesity is assumed to induce not only structural change but also functional change of the heart.

The Comparative Consideration of the Dart Design - Centering on Trousers and Skirt - (다아트 구성에 대한 비교고찰 - 하반신 의복을 중심으로 -)

  • Jung Ok Im
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.43 no.5 s.207
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    • pp.117-130
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    • 2005
  • Western clothing is adjusted to the figures of the human body unlike Korean traditional clothes. For this adjustment, we need a method, known as dart, to reasonably adjust a wide circumference to curves of the human body. So far, there has been some research in the aspect of clothing engineering on how to decide darts of skirts or trousers, but no theoretical research has yet been conducted on how to decide the number and amount of dart, which has caused difficulties in beginners' understanding of dart. Futhermore, there is no consistent drawing method for the number and amount of darts in existing teaching and teaming materials. Therefore, to develop teaching and teaming methods for darts, this study identified the amount and number of darts for waist girth of 66-72cm and a hip girth of 86-102cm. When the difference between the waist girth and the hips girth, including margins, is above a minimum of 26cm, two darts can be designed, but when the difference is below 24cm, one dart is necessary. The amount of darts increases by 0.5cm for every 2cm increase of the hip girth to the waist girth. In addition, as darts become longer, the cutting of the waist line becomes smoother. For one, rather than two, darts the curve of the waist line is steeper. Based on the above results, it was assured that when belts are curved through adjustment to the waist line of skirts or slacks, their composition can be stable. Therefore, in basic teaching about slacks and skirts, the number and amount of the darts should be designed according to the difference between the girths of the waist and the hip. This difference should be a minimum of 24cm, but if it is below 24cm, the number of darts needed is one.

A Comparative Study of the Draping Pattern based on Setting Waist Base Line of Dress Form (인대의 허리 기준선 설정에 따른 입체 패턴 비교 연구)

  • Yang, Chung-Eun;Kim, Yang-Weon;Lee, Eun-Kyung;Lee, Hae-Young
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.16 no.5
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    • pp.969-977
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    • 2007
  • The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.

The Comparison of Waist Circumference, Waist to Hip Ratio and Body Mass Index in Female College Students (여대생의 허리둘레, 허리둔부 둘레비와 체질량지수 비고)

  • Paek, Kyung-Shin;Chaung, Seung-Kyo
    • Research in Community and Public Health Nursing
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    • v.16 no.4
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    • pp.527-533
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    • 2005
  • Purpose: The purpose of this study was to validate waist circumference (WC) and waist to hip ratio (WHR) corresponding to body mass index (BMI) of $25kg/m^2$ and to survey the prevalence of hypertension according to obesity in female college students. Method: Weight, height, waist and hip circumferences and blood pressure were measured for each of 286 female college students in J City, Chungbuk. Results: The subjects' mean BMI was $21.4kg/m^2$, and the estimated prevalence of obesity was 11.2%. The subjects, the 80th-90th percentile of whom had BMI exceeding $25kg/m^2$, were found to have WC of 75-78.1 cm and WHR of 0.79-0.80, respectively. Of the subjects with obesity($BMI{\geq}25kg/m^2$), 53.1% exhibited abdominal obesity ($WC{\geq}80cm$) and 40.6% had WHR over 0.80. Systolic and diastolic blood pressure were correlated with BMI, WC, and WHR. The prevalence rate of hypertension in subjects with obesity($BMI{\geq}25kg/m^2$) was 25%. Additionally, the prevalence rate of hypertension in subjects with abdominal obesity ($WC{\geq}80cm$) was 39.1%. Conclusions: Our study indicates that WC corresponding to BMI of $25kg/m^2$ in female subjects in their twenties is different from that of adult women. We also found that the prevalence rate of hypertension in subjects with abdominal obesity was high. Therefore. we suggest further studies to determine the cutoff value of WC for evaluating abdominal obesity and to investigate the long-term effects of obesity on women in their twenties.

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Lower Body Type Classification of Korean Men in Their 30's for the Development of Slim-Fit Pants Pattern (슬림-핏 팬츠 패턴 개발을 위한 30대 한국인 남성 하반신 체형 분류)

  • Lee, Jeong-Eun;Do, Wol-Hee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.227-236
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    • 2015
  • This study analyzed the lower body type of 30's Korean men to develop a slim-fit pants pattern. As the analysis data, direct measurement data of anthropometric measured value in the 6th Size Korea(KATS, 2010) was used as basic data with 481 men in 30's as analysis objects. The result are as follows. First, the result of analyzing factors for the lower body type classification indicated five factors. Second, the result of executing group analysis (with the independent variable of 5 clusters extracted from the factor analysis)classified the following three types. Type 1(36.8%) displayed a medium height of lower body type, small waist and hip, slim and fit body type with a slim shape between the knee and ankle. The shape between the waist and hip had characteristics of a slight curve and short length. Type 2(35.6%) displayed lowest height of a lower body type that was large and thick between the waist and the hip. The drop value of the waist and the hip was small; therefore, the body type was flat with a minimal curve. The underpart type (below the knee) was the thickest and the length was short. Type 3(27.7%) displayed the highest lower body type, a medium level waist size, flat and narrow waist and belly. This body type had a curve with big drop value of the waist and the hip, lower part from the hip to the ankle (including the knee) and a thick calf with along leg.

A Change of fashin IIIustration by the Ideal Type of Human Body Beauty (인체미의 이상형에 따른 패션 일러스트레이션의 변화)

  • 전경숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.28
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    • pp.65-84
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    • 1996
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the relation between the beauty of human body and the fashion illustration in each period And I attained my object through the investigation of features and changes of illustration which is given a vivid description of the features and development of ideal humam body beauty. By various methods I studied this subject. Frist I refered to sundry records Secondly I investiated the fashion illustrations which are included in Vogue. On the basis of this data I grasped the ideal types of human body beauty which is founded during the social change in each 10 years. And I analyzed the relation be-tween the ideal type and fashion illustration which show the change of fashion. The summary of result is as follows. 1. In the early part of the 20th century the beauty of human body is represented with the figure of large-sized beauty which emphasize shoulder and bust. And fashion ikllustration show 9 life-size broad shoulder full bust lim waist and hourglass silhouette. 2, In the 1910s the swell of strength vanishes gradually and shoulder and sleeve are straight type. And fashion illustration show 7 life-size high waist line. And that is tublar sil-houette of high waist and streamline shape in which bust and hip are not emphasized. 3. In the 1920s the ideal type of human body beauty is straight type which shows flat bust and unexaggerate hip. And fashion illus-tration is about 8 life-size tublar silhouette of low waist and lunger and slimmer and young style in which bust and hip are not emph-asized. 4. In the 1930s the ideal is womamly slim and long style. Fashion illustration is about 8 life-size and slim & long silhouette in which waist line is emphasized and bust and hip line come out. 5. In the 1940s the ideal type is womamly style which has narrow shoulder rich bast and slim waist. And fashion illustration is about 7 life-size and hourglass silhouette which has unartificial shoulder slim waist and empha-sized bust. 6. In the 1950s the ideal type is that of ro-bust health which emphasize build and muscu-lar system. And fashion illustration is 8.5 life-size and show full bust and made waist slimmer. That is sheath silhouette. 7. In the child who has full face with large eyeball slender and long leg: narrow and immatured body comparatively big head. And fashion illus-tration is 7 life-size and show slim and long neck flat bust long and slim limbs and big head. That is H type silhouette. 8. In the 1970s the ideal type is high stat-ure flat breast small hip and wide shoulders. And fashion illustration is wide shoulders and slim waist as 11 life-size and straight sil-houete. 9. In the 1980s the ideal type is extremely emphasized breadth of shoulder because healthy body and muscle are recognized as the symbol of ideal attractiveness. And fashion il-lustration is about 8.5 life-size and show mus-cular slim type that is slim silhouette. 10 At the present time the ideal type is slim and tall type which is empasized healthy beauty. And fashion illustration is 12 life-size which has healthy body and skin So that is slim and long type.

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