• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.6
• /
• pp.101-117
• /
• 2004

Opposed to following the contours of the human body, the voluminous enlargement in costume, which characterizes the distinguished enlargement in space rather than the contour of human body, mean the enlargement aspect involving the vertical protrusion and the expansion of shape and volume as well as the extension of length. The costume enlargement as a different method of expression is a symbol showing a meaning of something and an aesthetic expression containing man's will. This voluminous enlargement of costume, as an aesthetic expression, has different formative characteristicsand immanent meanings according to ideals and thoughts as well as social and cultural background of each age Accordingly, the aesthetic consciousness also differaccording to the change of the times. To study the aesthetic consciousness of costume's voluminous enlargement, focous had been given to milieus that show comparatively conspicuous voluminous enlargement Periods that have been subjected to this study include costumes of the ancient Egypt, the Gothic period in the Middle age, the Renaissance, the Baroque Rococo of the recent times, and the modern era (Empire, Romantic, Art Nouveau. etc) With focus given to the principle of design obtained through this study were used to analyze the aesthetic characteristics, Futhermore, based on the spirit of the times and the socio-cultural symbolism, research on immanent meanings, as supported by objectivity and universal validity, was also made, the enlargement beauty of costume had been placed under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness, the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To Conclude, the aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costumes in history was found to have following characteristics: (l) Metaphorical (2) Unlooked-for irregularity (3) feeling of satisfaction driven by self-enlargement (4) Dignified sublimity (5) Symbol of wealth and class (6) Ceremonial dignity (7) Tradition of the nobility (8) Aesthetic ornament (9) Ideal contour of the body

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.7
• /
• pp.151-164
• /
• 2004

This Studies on 20th century fashion was carried out according to the classification of the times as made up Belle Epoque, New Look, Big Look, and Body-Consciousness. Aside from research in literatures, research into 20th fashion also include the analysis of photo had been taken from various collection. The enlargement beauty of costume had been place under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness. the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To conclude, this study finds there are between the aesthetic characteristic differences in the aesthetic consciousness of the costumes in history and the present-day fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the present-day was found to have the following characteristic ; (1) History-oriented tradition (2) Metaphorica autonomous (3) Freedom of breaking with restriction (4) Dismantling the irregularity (5) Hedonistic play instinct (6) Psychological compensation (7) Sexual sensuality (8) Ideal of the times (9) Aesthetic ornament (10) Feeling of satisfaction through self-enlargement. From list above. metaphorical sensuality, aesthetic ornament and the feeling of satisfaction driven by Self-Enlargement are the same characteristics found in the aesthetics consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costume In history in that they are the aesthetic consciousness above time and space. It is metaphorical sensuality which transform woman's body in to distorted images as influenced by both capitalism and materialism in the last 20 years. These are represented by the sadomasochistic and fetish images as the woman's metaphorical voluminous enlargement is apparently becoming more positive, radical and obscene especially in terms of expression.