• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.78-92
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• 2010

The culture phenomenon, which the desire of self expression is noticeable and the diversity of gender identity is widely accepted, simply makes a difference in the lifestyle of one human being rather than the dichotomous classification of male and female. Now, the delicate and aesthetic sensitivity classified as the feminine characteristics is no longer the exclusive property of female and this refers to substituting it as a social gender from the concept of biological sex. This phenomenon has influenced on the male culture and is creating various codes according to the cultural gender extended from the gender as a social role. Also, the transition into the western lifestyle has extended the aesthetic emotion to accommodate new codes from the diversification and globalization of lifestyle. The mansumer power, which does not care too much about the money for the emotionally attached items, has enabled various fashion styles. After analyzing the diversified clothing behavior conducted by these people in connection with the social phenomenon, First, this shows the phenomenon of emotional value pursuit that finds pleasure over the clothing as the item of augmented reality is added to the concept of play, in which the real space referred to as garment and virtual space of playing the rock, paper and scissors game meet together within the augmented reality. Second, the convergence concept has enabled the coordination of new style by obscuring the area of design concept and this refers to the changes in design from the development of new items and transformation into double-style details. Third, the divergence that intensively provides specific use/convenience and specialized value shows a change in the fashion market from the phenomenon that admits various gene rations of culture and specifically, takes differently about the recognition of middle-aged males. Fourth, the variety seeking tendency receives attention as the value of future design together with the phenomenon of discriminative value pursuit. In the male fashion, it is linked to the collaboration with the design area and this tells that the fashion with the narcissistic cross-dressing and motto of neutral gender without being sided to male/female is rising.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.102-114
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to enable a scientific and rational approach for future research agenda setting in the clothing construction field. Through analysis of research papers on clothing construction published in domestic academic journals during the recent decade, the research trend of clothing construction in respective academic journals, research subjects, and research contents were grasped thoroughly. From all domestic academic associations' publication on garment/clothing and textiles/fashion, 7 academic journals were selected as subjects of research, in order to compare and analyze the research trend in the last ten years. The ten-year period ranged from April 2006 to March 2016, and a total of 735 papers published on clothing construction were used for analysis. The number of publications in the clothing construction area during the last decade has decreased, which is due to the increase in the number of clothing and textiles fashion-related academic journals, other than the 7 journals analyzed, and since the number of papers published in international academic journals has also increased. Body type, patterns, fitting test, and functional clothing accounted for the highest proportion of research themes in clothing construction. In terms of body type, there was an increasing tendency towards usage of 3D body measurement. In the patterns area, the 3D virtual dressing system was actively used. For functional clothing, sportswear, protective clothes, and innerwear were most widely researched, and ergonomic design together with smartwear was actively studied.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.144-158
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a bodice block suitable for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome. The problem of turtle neck syndrome body type was derived through the evaluation of bodice blocks. First, the length of the front bodice was longer and the length of the back bodice was shorter. Second, the front neck point, back neck point, and the shoulder line were not in place. Third, the side neck was pushed up. Fourth, the length of armhole was long and it floated. Fifth, the front hem was attached to the body and the back hem was away from the body. A finally developed pattern was designed by developing four test patterns to solve the problem that appeared in a selected bodice pattern, and a t-test was conducted to determine the difference in the appearance evaluation by virtual clothing between the two patterns, bodice block and the development pattern. According to the result, the fit was not good from the side body because the position of the side neck point was not in a place due to the characteristics of the body shape of turtle neck syndrome, but the problems of the anterior neck position, the position of the back neck point, the shoulder line position, and the armhole shape were improved in the developed pattern.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.183-191
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 커스터마이징 시스템 개발을 위한 신한복 치마 패턴 개발의 기초자료를 얻기 위해 신한복 브랜드의 치마 패턴을 비교 분석하고자 하였다. 신한복 6개 브랜드의 패턴을 분석하여 가상착의를 시킨 후 외관평가와 의복압 및 공극량을 평가하였다. 시판 신한복 브랜드 A, B, C, D, E, F의 허리치마 패턴을 분석한 결과, 같은 디자인의 free 사이즈 치마임에도 불구하고 각기 다른 치수로 제작되는 것으로 나타났다. 허리치마의 패턴은 기존의 한복과 같이 평면적인 패턴으로 구성되었다. 외관평가 결과 앞면, 옆면, 뒷면 모든 평가항목에서 6개 브랜드의 패턴 간에 유의미한 차이가 있는 것으로 평가되었다. 외관평가 모든 항목에서 B 브랜드의 허리치마가 우수한 것으로 평가되었다. 의복압을 알아보기 위해 색분포도와 공극량을 살펴본 결과, 허리에 둘러서 착용하는 허리치마의 특성상 대부분의 부위에서 공극량이 큰 것으로 나타나 의복압이 낮은 것으로 평가되었다. 본 연구에서는 신한복 활성화에 따른 치수 및 패턴 규격화를 위한 기초자료를 제안하며, B브랜드 패턴을 기본으로 한 통일된 패턴개발이 이루어져야 할 것으로 생각된다.