• Journal of the Korean earth science society
• /
• v.44 no.1
• /
• pp.1-12
• /
• 2023

Oceanic wind waves have been recognized as one of the important indicators of global warming and climate change. It is necessary to study the spatial and temporal variability of significant wave height (SWH) and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and a part of the East China Sea, which is directly affected by the East Asian monsoon and climate change. In this study, the spatial and temporal variability including seasonal and interannual variability of SWH and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were analyzed using European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Reanalysis 5 (ERA5) data. Prior to analyzing the variability of SWH and wave direction using the model reanalysis, the accuracy was verified through comparison with SWH and wave direction measurements from Ieodo Ocean Science Station (I-ORS). The mean SWH ranged from 0.3 to 1.6 m, and was higher in the south than in the north and higher in the center of the Yellow Sea than in the coast. The standard deviation of the SWH also showed a pattern similar to the mean. In the Yellow Sea, SWH and wave direction showed clear seasonal variability. SWH was generally highest in winter and lowest in late spring or early summer. Due to the influence of the monsoon, the wave direction propagated mainly to the south in winter and to the north in summer. The seasonal variability of SWH showed predominant interannual variability with strong variability of annual amplitudes due to the influence of typhoons in summer.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.15 no.1
• /
• pp.21-32
• /
• 2003

In this study, the reliability design method developed by Hanzawa et al. in 1996 for calculation of the expected damage to armor blocks of a horizontally composite breakwater is extended to take into account the variability in wave direction such as directional spreading of waves, obliquity of the design principal wave direction from the shore-normal direction, and its variation about the design value. To calculate the transformation of random directional waves. the model developed by Kweon et al. in 1997 is used instead of Goda's model, which was developed in 1975 for unidirectional random waves normally incident to a straight coast with parallel depth contours and has been used by Hanzawa et al. It was found that the variability in wave direction had great influence on the computed expected damage to armor blocks. The previous design, which disregarded wave directionality, could either overestimate or underestimate the expected damage by a factor of two depending on water depth and seabed slope, if the assumption of the present study that the stability formula for breakwater armor blocks proposed for normal incidence can be used for obliquely incident waves is valid.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.16 no.1
• /
• pp.27-38
• /
• 2004

In this study, the reliability design method developed by Shimosako and Takahashi in 1999 for calculation of the expected sliding distance of the caisson of a vertical breakwater is extended to take into account the variability in wave direction such as directional spreading of waves, obliquity of the deep-water design principal wave direction from the shore-normal direction, and its variation about the design value. To calculate the transformation of random directional waves, the model developed by Kweon et al. in 1997 is used instead of Goda's model, which was developed in 1975 for unidirectional random waves normally incident to a straight coast with parallel depth contours and has been used by Shimosako and Takahashi. The effects of directional spreading and the variation of deep-water principal wave directions were minor compared with those of the obliquity of the deep-water design principal wave direction from the shore-normal direction, which tends to reduce the expected sliding distance as it increases. Especially when we used the field data in a part of east coast of Korea, considering the variability in wave directions reduced the expected sliding distance to about one third of that not considering the directional variability. Reducing the significant wave height calculated at the design site by 6％ to correct the effect of wave refraction neglected in using Goda's model was found to be proper when the deep-water design principal wave direction is about 20 degrees. When it is smaller than 20 degrees, a value smaller than 6％ should be used, or vice versa. When we designed the caisson with the expected sliding distance to be 30㎝, in the area of water depth of 25 m or smaller, we could reduce the caisson width by about 30％ at the maximum compared with the deterministic design, even if we did not consider the variability in wave directions. When we used the field data in a part of east coast of Korea, considering the variability in wave directions reduced the necessary caisson width by about 10% at the maximum compared with that not considering the directional variability, and is needed a caisson width smaller than that of the deterministic design in the whole range of water depth considered (10∼30 m).

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
• /
• v.4 no.1
• /
• pp.7-19
• /
• 2017

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

• Smart Structures and Systems
• /
• v.21 no.6
• /
• pp.761-776
• /
• 2018

Guided wave testing is a reliable and safe method for pipeline inspection. In general, guided wave testing employs a circumferential array of piezoelectric transducers to clamp on the pipe circumference. The sensitivity of the operation depends on many factors, including transducer distribution across the circumferential array. This paper presents the sensitivity analysis of transducer array for the circumferential characteristics of guided waves in a pipe using finite element modelling and experimental studies. Various cases are investigated for the outputs of guided waves in the numerical simulations, including the number of transducers per array, transducer excitation variability and variations in transducer spacing. The effect of the dimensions of simulated notches in the pipe is also investigated for different arrangements of the transducer array. The results from the finite element numerical simulations are then compared with the related experimental results. Results show that the numerical outputs agree well with the experimental data, and the guided wave mode T(0,1) presents high sensitivity to the notch size in the circumferential direction, but low sensitivity to the notch size in the axial direction.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.36 no.6
• /
• pp.390-402
• /
• 2022

Offshore wind energy has become a major energy source, and various studies are underway to increase the economic feasibility of floating offshore wind turbines (FOWT). In this study, the characteristics of wave-induced motion of a combined wind-wave energy platform were analyzed to reduce the variability of energy extraction. A user subroutine was developed, and numerical analysis was performed in connection with the ANSYS-AQWA hydrodynamic program in the time domain. A platform combining the TLP-type FOWT and the Wavestar-type wave energy converter (WEC) was proposed. Each motion response of the platform on the second-order wave load, the effect of WEC attachment and Power take-off (PTO) force were analyzed. The mooring line tension according to the installation location was also analyzed. The vertical motion of a single FOWT was increased approximately three times due to the second-order sum-frequency wave load. The PTO force of the WEC played as a vertical motion damper for the combined platform. The tension of the mooring lines in front of the incident wave direction was dominantly affected by the pitch of the platform, and the mooring lines located at the side of the platform were mainly affected by the heave of the platform.

• Atmosphere
• /
• v.31 no.4
• /
• pp.377-394
• /
• 2021

The recent largest forest fire in the Yeongdong region, Goseung/Okgae fires of 2019 occurred during YangGang wind event. The wind can be locally gusty and extremely dry, particularly in the complex terrain of Yeongdong. These winds can cause and/or rapidly spread wildfires, the threat of which is serious during the dry spring season. This study examines the spatial variability of the surface wind and its coupling with the upper atmospheric wind using the data during the IOP of the Gangwon Yeongdong Wind Experiments (G-WEX) conducted in 2020 and the data during YangGang wind event on 4~5 April 2019. In the case of IOPs, strong wind at the surface with a constant wind direction appears in the mountain area, and weak wind with large variability in wind direction appears from foothill to the coast in the vicinity of Gangneung region. However, in the 2019 event, strong wind at the surface with a constant wind direction appears in the entire region from the mountain to the coast, even with the stronger wind in the coast than in some part of the mountain area. The characteristics of the upper atmospheric wind related with the spatial distribution of surface wind show that during IOPs of G-WEX, a strong downdraft exists near the mountaintop in the level of about 1 to 4 km. However, in the 2019 event a strong downdraft is reinforced, when its location moves toward the coast and descends close to the ground. These downdrafts are generated by the breaking of mountain waves.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
• /
• 2002.08a
• /
• pp.82-91
• /
• 2002

방파제에 대한 신뢰성 설계 방법은 유럽과 일본을 중심으로1980년대 중반 이후로 발전되어 왔다. 유럽에서는 van der Meer(1988a)가 방파제 피복재의 설계에 확률론적인 방법을 도입하였고, Burcharth(1991)는 사석방파제에 대하여 부분안전계수(partial safety factor)를 이용한 신뢰성 설계 방법을 제시하였다 최근 Burcharth and Sørensen(1999)은 PIANC (Permanent International Association of Navigation Congress) Working Groups의 결과를 요약하여 사석방파제와 직립방파제에 대한 부분안전계수들을 확립하였다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.69-83
• /
• 2006

A Level 3 reliability analysis has been performed for wave run-up and overtopping on a sloping seawall. A Monte-Carlo simulation was performed considering the uncertainties of various variables affecting the wave overtopping event. The wave overtopping probability was evaluated from the individual wave run-up by using the wave-by-wave method, while the mean overtopping rate was calculated directly from the significant wave height. Using the calculated overtopping probability and mean overtopping rate, the maximum overtopping volume was also calculated on the assumption of two-parameter Weibull distribution of individual wave overtopping volume. In addition, by changing wave directions, depths, and structure slopes, their effects on wave overtopping were analyzed. It was found that, when the variability of wave directions is considered or the water depth decreases toward shore, wave height become smaller due to wave refraction, which yields smaller mean overtopping rate, overtopping probability and maximum overtopping volume. For the same mean overtopping rate, the expected overtopping probability increases and the expected maximum overtopping volume decreases as approaching toward shore inside surfzone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.31 no.2
• /
• pp.88-99
• /
• 2019

This study presents the results of analysis for the wave data that were consecutively collected from February 2013 to November 2018 at the location of 1.6 km offshore from Namhangjin beach. The water depth at the location is 30.5 m and waves were measured by AWAC (Acoustic Wave And Current meter). By using wave-by-wave analysis and spectral analysis, wave heights and periods were evaluated and then the relationships between the quantities obtained by the two methods were proposed based on linear regression analysis. In addition, monthly and yearly variations of the significant wave height and period, and the peak wave direction were analyzed. Moreover, the relationship between the significant wave height and period was newly suggested. Variability and probability distribution of the significant wave period with respect to the significant wave height were also examined.