• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.149-167
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• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.103-113
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• 2002

Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.