This paper is intended to grasp the characteristics of many bodices patterns which have been shown so far. The way is by selecting four characteristic kinds of patterns, making blouses offer the patterns and measuring ease. In measuring the degree of ease, $Scheff\`{e}'s$ paired comparison is made use of. In analysis, variation ratio has come out of analysis of variance, and significance is tested by producing estimated values between patterns. The Result is summed up as follows. 1. After wearing blouses made ofter different basic patterns and measuring ease, the analysis of variance is made about the sensory value of ease. The result is as follows. 1) In the ease of different patterns, all the areas are significant at the level of $1\%$ , regard- less of movements. 2) Under the influence of movements, the back area of arm hole is significant at the level of $5\%$ in narrow movements, and the front and the back area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 3) In the interaction of patterns and movements, bust and the under area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in narrow movements, and bust is significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 2. When comparing estimated values between patterns, the value of c is the largest and in the order of b,4, a. And in the other movements, the order changes into c,d, b and a. Thus the ease of blouses is different according to patterns. The reason for this is that the amount of ease of bust, the amount and location of darts, and sleeve cap height have complicate influences on the ease of blouses. Both sleeve cap height and the depth of arm hole have influences on the ease of sleeve. Consequently, in making clothes, it would be better to select and use proper patterns which go with the purposes and desings of clothes rather than to apply one pattern to various clothes.
This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.
This study developed safety clothing that is essential for adolescent to protect their bodies from accidents, pursue activities and individuality. Therefore, the developed safety clothing was first based on international standards, while changing design to emphasize creativity, activity, and functionality. Two suits of boy's clothes and a girl's suit were developed as safety clothing for sportswear, along with two pairs of girl's clothes and a pair of boy's clothes for entertainment. It was confirmed that the difference in visibility was revealed by testing under different lighting conditions. Second, the survey on adolescents indicated no significant gender difference in sportswear. Round shirt+shorts for both boys and girls were the most preferred for ball game sportswear. However, there was a significant difference by gender in the design of safety clothing for entertainment. Male students preferred jump suit=cape+pants the most, and female students preferred jump suit>cape+pants in the order (p<0.05). In the safety clothes with the highest preference for entertainment, there was no gender difference. All students preferred the jump suit at the most. Checking at each school level, it was found that both middle and high school students preferred jump suit designs, and in safety clothing, middle school students preferred high-neck shirt blouse+tight skirt, and high school students preferred jump suits. Third, 35.5% responded that they would wear it more if current safety clothing is improved. This indicated the necessity of developing various safety clothing for adolescence.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the clothing behaviors and wearing sensation of ready-to-wear of the elderly woman who residing in the Pusan and Kimhae. The subjects were elderly woman who assessed the wearing sensation of slacks, jacket 1(1-2button), jacket 2(over 4button), and jumper. The results were as follows: 1. In the analysis of the clothing behaviors factors, the factor 1 was the concern about the appearance, the factor 2 was mental dependency about the clothes, the factor 3 was the satisfaction about the clothes and the factor 4 was the concern about the fashion. 2. As for the wearing sensation of the slacks, waist and thigh of the slacks was large and slacks length and crotch length was long. As for the wearing sensation of the jacket 1, over the age of 70 years was more satisfied than under the age of 70 for the wearing sensation of bust, waist, hip, and sleeve length. As for the wearing sensation of the jacket 2, under the age of 70 years was more satisfied than over the age of 70 for the wearing sensation of sleeve length and location of the armhole. As for the wearing sensation of the jumper, the area showed significant difference in waist. Jumper was larger than jacket.
Freed from its traditional confinement to the human body, postmodernism in fashion exposes the defectiveness of body and abstracts from the body under. Deformation of the body denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body. Bodily deformation carried out historical and cultural pastiche opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism which results in the discord between signifiant and $signifi{\acute{e}}$ of clothing. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily deformation as pastiche, focusing on the relationship between clothes and the body. In order to inquire the deformation of the body in fashion, my study examines subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the 21st century, using the method of literature research and content analysis.
Clothing care has been changed with the times condition of clothing to social and economic background. Nowadays, it needs reasonable and saving clothing care for home economy under the IMF structure. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to find out development and proper type of clothing care at the present to change of clothing in the newspaper from 1910 to 1998. The development of clothing care can be divided five steps as clothing care in home, spare clothing care, clothing care in the professional shop, re-used clothing care, economic clothing care. This study classified types of clothing care to typical purpose from these five steps. Results were as follows; The types of clothing care are for long wearing, reduction of clothing expenses and domestic duties, new designed clothes from unused clothes, re-use preserving environment. The practice of reasonable and economic clothing care at the present is desirable for reference clothing care in the past.
We firstly tried to understand consumers' purchasing tendencies and mainly focused on designing a platform model that offers integrated support. C2B (Customer to Business) orders integrate with a consumption platform of a B2C (Business to Customer) model, and integrated support aims at design, supply, processing, and distribution of a fashion business. All the information such as orders, sales, production, supply, and settlement of accounts is synchronized under the C2B, B2C, and O2O (Online to Offline) environment so that accurate information can be shared in real time. Our platform automatically handles with a net income of a product designer, manufacturer, and shipping company once shipping is confirmed.
Koh(袴) was a type of dress worn on the lower part of the body which was commonly used in the Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of nomadism or hunting. The origin of the Koh which appeared in the area would be found from the trousers of the Huns who influenced in the Northeast Asia, and became in the part of the Scythian culture. The Scythians are the nomadizing race inhabited in the Northern Caucasas on the wast of the Black Sea and influenced on the inland Eurasian steppe as the first typical horse-riding race. The objectives of Koh which had been worn in the Scythian, Mongolia, Korea as well as Japan as a part of Dongho dress and ornaments and to contemplate the transmission process by cultural exchange among different races for the period from 4th century to 7th century. 1. The Origination of the Koh The Koh was originated by the environmental factor to protect the cold in the North but also from the heat in the South, and was changed and developed as gradually satisfying to the needs of the times. In the Northeast Asia the Koh was in the class of the Northern Chinese garment, and was used widely by the horse riding Scythians who moved widely from the Eurasian inland to Japan. The oldest original which could reflect the type of the Northern clothes was a pair of trousers discovered in the Huns remains of Noin Ula. This showed the exact form of hunting clothes and had a similar form with the Korean female tro-users. Since the same form of trousers drawn on the wall painting of which was excavated 4-5th century ancient Koguryo(高句麗) tomb was the same form the trousers of Noin Ula seemed to be the original form of Koh in the Northeast Asia. 2. The Chinese Trousers It was the time of the King Mooryung(武靈王) in the Cho(趙) Dynasty B.C. 3th century that the trousers used regularly in China. However, the Koh had been used as undergarment which functioned for the protection of the cold not the horseriding garment. The trousers seemed to be not very obviously shown off since the Poh (袍) was long, but mainly used by the people from lower class. As people learned the adapted the trousers. It was essential for the times of war and quarrel. The king himself started wearing the Koh. The Chinese trousers were influenced by the Huns, the Northern clothes of the Scythian culture, and similar to the Korean clothes. 3. The Korean Trousers Korean was a race bared from the Eastern foreign group. It was obvious that the clothes was Baji-Jeogori(바지 저고리), the garment of the Northern people. This had the same form of the Scythian dress and ornaments which was excavated from the Mongolian Noin Ula. The Scythian dress and ornaments were influenced from the Ancient West Asia Empire and transmitted to the Northeast Koguryu by the horseriding Scythian. The trousers were kept in the traditional style by the common people in Korea were transmitted to Japan which were for behind in cultural aspect, as well as got used to the Chinese as the efficient clothes though active cultural exchange. 4. The Japanese Trousers The ancient Japanese clothes were influenced by the Southern factor but not the form of the Koh. As the Korean people group was moving towards Japan and conquer the Japanese in the 4-5th century, however, North Altaic culture was formed and at the same time the clothes were also developed. The most influenced clothes at this time were those of Baekge(百濟) and the trousers form called Euigon became the main form. Because of the climatic regional factor, it was tied not at the ankle but under the knee. From the view the ancient Japanese clothes disappeard about that time, it could be due to the conquest of the culturally superior race but not the transmission of the culture. In the latest 7th century both the Chinese and Japanese dress forms were present, but the Dongho(東胡) dress and its ornament from Korea was still the basic of the Japanese dress form.
Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.
은나노를 이용한 드럼식 세탁기로 세탁한 경우 발생되는 세탁물의 변퇴색 및 오염현상을 관찰하기 위해 이와 유사한 세탁원리를 갖는 론더로메타를 이용하여 그 결과를 알아보았다. 반응성염료로 염색한 면직물과 분산염료로 염색한 폴리에스터 직물을 세탁포로 하고, 첨부 백포로 면, 폴리에스테르, 나일론을 이용하여, 세탁온도, 세탁액비, 세제 농도, 세탁용수를 변화시켜 세탁물의 염색견뢰도를 관찰하였고, 은물로 세탁한 경우 세탁물로의 은침착 여부를 관찰하였다. 그 결과, 세탁조건에 따른 염색포의 변색은 크지 않았으나, 세탁온도가 높고, 세탁 액비가 낮은 조건에서 첨부 백포로의 오염이 크게 나타났고, 특히 나일론 첨부 백포로의 오염이 컸다. 세제농도와 세탁용수는 염색견뢰도에 큰 영향을 미치지 않았다. 세탁용수를 달리하여 세제없이 백포만 반복 세탁한 경우, 은물로 세탁한 면, 나일론은 수돗물로 세탁한 경우보다 백도가 약간 낮게 나타났으며, 정량분석 결과 세탁물에 은화합물이 침착되었음이 확인되었다.
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