• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.111-134
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• 1997

The purpose of this paper is to examine into the cross-dressing. Cross-dressing means 'dress-ing in clothes of the opposite sex' which has increased under the contemporary conditions. There also have been various cross-dressing phenomena in past but it appears strongly now that it would destroy the cultural stereo-types and give rise to the cultural insecurities in the contemporary conditions,. In this paper the author classified cross-dressing with the oppositional cross-dressing the perverted cross-dressing and the custom-ary cross-dressing. And the results are as follows 1. The oppositional cross-dressing has increased under the influence of feminism movements homosexual identities and subcul-tural identities. 2. The perverted cross-dressing has ap-peared in various social cultural contexts that is in the regional theratrical and the religious habits. Cross-dressers have used the clothes as an instrument for which the solve the contradic-tion between sex and gender role. And through the cross-dressing phenomena we can find all the category crises which are related with sex and gender but simultaneously we can search for all the possibilities through the open thought.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.237-260
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• 2000

According to the study of Jik-Ryoung(直領) consulting chronicles of the Chosun Era, Jik-Ryoung had been worn for various uses as official outfit, ordinary attire or clothes for the celebration of their coming of age, wedding ceremonies, funeral rites, and religious ceremonies, etc. from the beginning to the end of the Chosun Era. The conclusions are shown briefly as follows. 1. There are several terms of Po(袍) related to Jik-Ryoung in the chronicles under the name of Jik-Ryoung Ui(直領衣), Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung(衣撒直領), and Jik-shin(直身). Jik-Ryoung Ui is the other name of Jik-Ryoung that they called it when it was used for funeral rites and religious ceremonies. The chinese Ye-Sal(曳撒) was called the Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung in Korea, but this is different with Jik-Ryoung regarding its divided up and bottom style. Jik-Shin is almost same as Jik-Ryoung. 2. During the latter period of the Chosun Era, we can find diferent frequency in use of the Jik-Ryoung. Jik-Ryoung was shown constantly in the cases of that ding, Chinese Prince and lower-level constantly in the cases of that king, Crown Prince and lower-level officials wore it for funeral rites and lower-level officials, artisans, merchants, humbles and slaves wore it for official outfit. Uses of the Jik-Ryoung increased for military officers'outfits, in contrast to decreasing of uses for ordinary attires of king, Crown Prince, and the commons, and official outfits of civil officials. 3. These different aspects mean the change of estate and role. For the basic four ceremonial occasions the ceremonies of coming of age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor memorial-, it appeared constantly. Therefore the social role had been maintained also by then. As an official garb, the role for official uniform of petty official maintained by the end of the Dynasty. But from the latter 1600's to the former 1700's, the roles for official garbs of civil officials and military officers decreased and increased respectively. Before the Hideyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, ordinary social clothes had orders by people's social status who wore them ; those were Dan Ryoung(團領), Hong Jik Ryoung(紅直領), Jik Ryoung(直領), Cho'l Rick(철릭) in the order named. After the war, various Po(袍), Shim Ui(深衣), Jung Chi Mak(中致莫), Chang Ui(　衣), Jang Ui(長衣), Ju Ui(周衣) and so on had been worn until the King Young Jo(英祖)·Jung Jo(正祖) period. In result, the social role of Jik-Ryoung was reduced as the uses decreased more and more. For a mourning dress, it had a same aspect as the case of ordinary social wear. 4. Considering the color, they used blue for the clothes for doing-up-the-hair ceremony, white for mourning clothes, and white, black for ancestor memorial ceremony clothes. On the official outfits of officials, dark blue and black were used mostly. And lower-level officials'clothes had white, red, and green on them. They used red and green for the plain dresses. 5. Examining the materials, clothes for the celebration of one's coming of age were made of high quality silks, Kwang Hwa Dan(廣禾緞). Also, they made clothes for funeral rites of rough and thick linen, and made clothes for religious ceremonies of linen and hemp. The official outfits were made of practical materials like cotton, hemp and ramie. Cotton, pongee and satin were used to make ordinary attire.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.749-764
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• 1994

It was assumed that a consumer forms images of all the factors related to clothing merchandise such as trademarks, stores, products and prices that he/she perceives in the market and those images deforming his/her preference for a particular piece of clothes and intention of purchase. Under this assumption, this research was designed to find out important factors of clothes that help a consumer form an image of the clothes, among other attributes of the merchandise, and how this image is related to the existing extraneous variables such as the trademark image, the consumer's self image, the price, etc. in leading the consumer to purchase the particular clothes in the end. In the empirical research, a preliminary survey was conducted to select brands of womenswear that were suitable for this study and as the result, 16 brands were chosen. Then one trademark, one store and two products from each of the 16 brands were selected. With these materials, 32 stimulus sheets were prepared, and each of them was composed of 3 photos of a brand's catalog and logo, the interior of a selected store that carried products of the brand, and formal suits selected from each brand's spring/summer 1993 collections. Subjects were 460 women in the age groups of 20-50s who live in Seoul Metropolitan area. Each of the subjects was provided with a survey questionnaire and 16 stimulus sheets. The main findings of this research prove that consumers follow a certain selection process model when they purchase clothes: consumers, first, from images of merchandise based on the trademarks, stares, and products and those formed images work il.: medium variables and in the end they help the consumers decide whether to buy the products.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.98-110
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• 2013

This research is to study the functional color arrangement of work clothes based on the color chroma value arrangement, which could affect the safety of workers at the site of the mechanical industry. For the study, 5PB hue, indicating a high satisfaction level with proper colors at the site of the mechanical industry, were selected from previous research for 6 types of CAD simulation on a 2-color chroma value arrangement. To analyze the color data of each color arrangement after applying the color chroma value arrangement as well as to figure out the level of recognition on the color arrangement, an analytical result, which was based on the NCS color system, was evaluated. Furthermore, the survey study on items regarding the safety of the relevant work site for the simulated result was executed. As a result of the evaluation, the color arrangements which include high color chroma value indicated a high satisfactory level in all items under the visibility criteria for the safety of workers, propriety as a color arrangement of work clothes, and safety from the perspective of work site management. In particular, the color arrangement mixture between high color chroma obtained the highest satisfactory evaluation, indicating that the color arrangement of high color chroma is essential in the color arrangement of work clothes for the establishment of safety by adjusting the color chroma value. Yet, in order to figure out the independent function of the color chroma value, other factors are restricted in this study. Thus, it is not proper to apply the result of this study only at the actual work site. Therefore, a follow-up research centered on the tones of all three types is proposed, from which we can expect, a suggestion of the applicable color guideline for the industrial site.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.87-95
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• 1992

The purpose of this study is to suggest how we can get over the difficulties of practical drill under experimentation concerning the units of making clothes in the curriculum of home economics. The import of this study was based on the results of the preceding studies the field of the making Korean clothes, from the standpoint of the teaching tools and teaching materials by the use of VTR, is one of the most insufficient. On the one hand, the teaching procedure here a VTR, running 34 minutes or so, was made up with the process of making Korean men’s slacks, and was led by the researcher’s own. The contents of the lesson are as follows： the shape of Korean clothes, the name of each part, the process of drawing, cutting and sewing, and the items of evaluation and arrangement. On the other hand, the two comparative groups were made to compare one with the other： One group was taught by help of VTR media, and the other by the model performance and explanation of the instructor’s own. All of the statistical data were analyzed in terms of SPSS/PC, and t-verification was made, to make difference between the two, after standard deviation was calculated according to the classified domains. The consequences of the test research are shown as below： 1. The difference of understanding was obviously made in considering that the group made a better score than the comparative one in understanding to process of making Korean clothes. 2. The difference of skill was highly made in considering that the group made a better score than the comparative one in the practical drill of making Korean clothes. 3. The difference of interests was evidentally made in considering that the group made a better score than the comparative one in the stage of making Koran clothes. Such means that the motivation and attitude of the learners was made stimulate by the Audio-Visual material than by the traditional cramming method. 4. The difference of frequency was fairly made in considering that the experimeatal group made a better score than the comparative one in the frequency of individual teaching. 5. The difference of the efficiency of time-consumption was clearly made in considering that the experimental group made a better score than the comparative one. As the results of the research above, the medium of VTR proved to more effective to the achievement of schoolwork and the strategies of teaching. Therefore, more use of VTR media will help the instructors with the difficulties of practical drill in the whole process of making Korean clothes； Widely use of VTR media in teaching will be surely more fruitfull to the unit of making Korean clothes than teaching by explanation.

• 복식
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• 제1권
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• pp.119-129
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• 1977

It is significant for developing the future for us to know our present age. In order to preserve our Korean costume as a fola clothes retaining our distinguished independent characterisitics and to help design the tomorrow of our Korean costume playing a role as a racial to develop the world clothing culture, a survey was conducted to investigate modern people's conscious-ness and wearing practumes of Korean costume by questionaire and interviewing methods. The results of the survey were analyzed as follows: (1) At present, Korean costumes were purchased as customtailored(64.0%) and as ready-made(17.8%) and most of them were not made at individual homes. The laundry and ironing of them were carried out at laundry shops(68.8%). Considering our present economic, social and cultural aspects, sowing, laundryand ironing will not be carried out at homes again in the future and ready made costumes seen to be produced in a large scale in the future. Garment makers and laundry shop operators should be trained how to make our Korean costumes retain our traditional beauty in the course of their production and laundry and the makers of ready-made costumes must make research how to efficiently produce ideal ready-made costumes by adopting the synchro system in their wrk odisivion. (2) The age group wearing Korean costumes most frequently was the aged people over 60 (their wearing rate; 45%-50%) and the group wearing them most frequently next io the aged people over 60, was housewives(their wearing rate; 15%-20%). Excludign aged people and housewives, other respondentsdid not wear Korean costumes very frequently. Men's wearing rate was lower their wearing rate was the younger their ages were and the less their monthly incomes were. Korean costumes were used for holiday and festival(60%), wedding and funeral ceremonies (52%), visiting and working(22%), casual wear(12.8%) and home wear(9.2%). The use of Korean costumes as casual and home wears, was lower than the use for holday, festival, visiting and working, Under our present circumstances in which our Korean people use both Western style clothes and Korean costumer, our Korean costume has lostits position as a basic and necessary requiement in Korean people's daily life and become a ceremonical and fancy costume. It is natural that the times and life change everything in our daily life. Our costume has to be made as good ceremonial and fancy clothes satisfying modern sensibility according to its new role. In order for us to get close with our clothes, a keen study must be carried out to cleat the color, material, style, function and harmony of the Korean costume matching the of the times. (3) The 47.8% of the respondents answered that they were proud of our Korean costume as our folk clothes, 47.6% replied that thought them just common and 1.1% responded that they were ashamed of it. Most of them were affirmative in feeling pride with our Korean costume. (4) Considering the functional aspect of Korean costumes, their strong points were symetric beauty, rhythmical beauty, unity feeling, harmonical beauty and detailed decorations. Their common shortcomings were lack of individuality and inadequateness for active life. The shortcomings of woman costumes were suppressing breast, making resperation difficult and in adequnteness in summer time. The main reason not to wear our Korean costumes, was due to the fact that they are incomvenient for active life. As a measure to eliminate such shortcomings, 1) the suspension system of skirt to remove the suppression of breast should be generally adopted. 2) they should be simplified in their structure to make them convenient for active life and adepuate in wearing them in hot weather in an extent to which the traditional beauty of the costume may not be lostand 3) a new technique must be explored for showing individuality by wearing method and new arrangment of colors and decorations. (5) The reasons desiring to wear Korean costumes were classifide as follows: A. Korean costumes are our traditional clothes(43.4%). B. Korean costumes are noble and beautiful(26.8%). C. They are accustomed to wear Korean costumes by habit(19.5%). D. Korean costumes are necessary for attending ceremoneis(9.5%). E. Miscellaneous reasons(0.8%). Classifying these reasons into age groups, the high age group over 40 wore them because they were easy to wear by habit and the low age group of 10-30 never thought that they were east to wear by habit. Considering that even those who were accustomed to wear Korean costumes showed a low wearing rate and that the young generation were accustomed to wear Western style clothes rather than Korean costumes, the wearing rate of Korean costumes will be reduced in the future if such trend continues. It is urgent for us to make our best efforts in order to enhance the interest of young generation in Korean costumes and not to make them lose the strong points of Korean costume in the future. (6) Conicering the plan of the respondents on what kind of clothes they were going to wear in the future, among the age group over 50, those who wanted to wear only Korean costumes were 24.8%(men) and 35.1%(women), those who wanted to wear 49.7%(men) and 47.4(women), those who wanted to wear chiefly Western style clothes were 20.7% (men) and 14.4%(women) and those who wanted to wear only Western style clothes, were 2.4% (men) and 2.1%(women). This shows that the general tendency to wear only or chiefly Korean costumes is more prevalent than that to wear only Western style. Among the age group under 50, the tendency to wear Western style clothes was conspicuous and most of the respondent answered that they would wear chiefly Western style clothes and Korean costumes occasionally. Only 5.4% of the respondent answered that they would wear only Western style clothes and this shows that meny respondents still wonted to wear Korean costumes. Those who wanted their descendants to wear what they desire, were 50.1%(men) and 68.8% (women) and those who wanted their descendants to wear Koran costumes occasionally, were 85.8%(men) and 86.3%(women). This shows that most of respondents wanted their descendants to wear Korean costumes. In order to realize, it is necessory for us to make ourdescendants recognize the preciousness of our traditional culture and modify our Korean costumes according to their taste so that they may like wearing them.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.5-20
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• 2000

Through his geometric design, the Cyprus born fashion designer Hussein Chalayan raises intriguing questions about the very fact of wearing clothes. By purposefully displacing the function of each part of the clothing, such as neck line, hem line, seam, sleeve, etc., Chalayan transforms the meaning of the body that wears clothes. of the human subject as a sovereign possessor of the clothing and the visibility related to fashion. This transformation is achieved by distorting the spaces of his clothing in an unorthodox way. This thesis argues that the significance of such a practice can not be properly understood without relation to the current debate on deconstructionism under way in humanities. Instead of immediately negating the modern frame of Ideas and practices, deconstructionism asks what the assumptions for the modern regime of truth is. In this process, things that lead human beings to sovereign master of knowledge and truth such as reason, subject, body and vision are questioned. In the same context, Chalayan's design not only forces us to rethink the very function of dividing inside and outside by the clothing but also the meaning of boundary operating in numerous sites of modern life. As the human subject is not something pre-given but constructed according to the cultural representation, to which the clothing belongs, fashion can be evaluated to be an active ingredient of constructing the subject. Therefore, Hussein Chalayan's design is at the cross road between the modern and the postmodern regime of fashion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.489-497
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to most appropriately develop maternity wear according to the preferences of specific age groups of pregnant women. The specific age groups were women in their twenties, early thirties, and late thirties. This survey was conducted in the metropolitan area around Seoul, South Korea through a questionnaire given to 150 pregnant women. The study found that pregnant women purchased significantly cheaper clothes after their pregnancy than before. The participants responded that they mostly bought clothes using the Internet, but they also reported many instances of returning the clothes due to fit and sizing. It was shown that women in their twenties tended to consider the price, design, and activity more than women in their thirties when purchasing maternity wear. The study showed that pregnant women tended to wear maternity wear from early in the pregnancy-preferring leggings, one-piece dresses, pants, shirts, briefs, and bras with the girdle on the outside. More women in their late thirties purchased maternity support belts than younger age groups. In any case, in purchasing maternity wear, clothing features that the respondents focused on were comfort, functionality, fit, the covering of their body changes, and fashion. Still, many respondents 35 years and older reported more interest in safety rather than fashion in comparison to the responses of respondents under the age of 35.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권7호
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• pp.153-162
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• 2006

This study was attempted to investigate the possibilities of fitness evaluation of virtual model using 3D clothes modeling software. For the purpose, two one-piece dresses were made with two kinds of patterns using Qualoth program, and then each dress was fitted to a real model and a virtual model, and the results were compared and discussed. The result of this study was as follows. First, the fitness evaluation of real model showed a significant difference only at a little difference in figures (1-2.5cm) of the pattern, while any significant difference in appearance was not found in case of a virtual model fitted a dress made out of a pattern with the same difference in figures. Second, items to evaluate a difference in patterns using 3D clothes modeling software were shoulder line, the distance between shoulder points, armhole line, ease of armscye depth, and overall appearance. Because all the items fall under design lines which make up outer lines of a cloth, it can be said that the Qualoth program is good for representing design, rather than exposing a small difference in patterns.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.69-81
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• 1982

Eight female subjects aged between 19 and 21 years old were used to compare 4 kinds of sleeves and pants length estimates of the effect of skin temperatures and thermal and restricted sensation. The subjects were exposed to climatic conditions between 23$\pm$$1^{\circ}C$, RH 65$\pm$5% while repose and exercise. Mean skin temperature became higher according to the sleeves and pants length. 4 kinds of shirts and pants always covered back and chest, but skin temperature of these parts are affected by the length of clothes. Thigh, uppar arm and shin which are covered or uncovered according to the lengh of the sleeve and pants, skin temperature of these parts became higher when convered with clothes than when uncovered. The subjects ballots warmer and more restricted sensation after exercise than after repose and when wear the long sleeved shirts and slacks that when wear the no sleeve shirts and short shorts. In conclusion, three quarter sleeved shirts and pedal pushers are recommended for the rest clothes and no sleeved shirts and shorts for the sports wear under the preceding conditions.