• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.38-43
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• 2004

The strings of Gayageum and Geomungo are usually made of raw silk. It needs good vibration as well as good durability to endure during play the Gayagum and Geomungo. This study was carried out to discuss some effects of twisting number of first and final twisting on the mechanical properties of silk Gayageum strings. Tenacity of strings were largely decreased proportionally with the increase of number of twisting of strings but elongation of strings were in the opposition direction. However, it was needed to hard twisting string for the good vibration. The proper S direction twisting velocity of moving twister during final twisting (Z direction) until three thread become one thread, was 40% of basic twister.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.16-22
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• 2006

Process contract has received considerable attention in silk degumming processes because of its critical role in quality assurance. In degumming, process exhibits shrinkage of high twisted yarn and lot-varying behavior, thus increasing the difficulties of reduction by conventional means. This necessitates the application of a package that adapts to changing degumming process, and a new approach involving package degumming is proposed. The gains of this process are prevent of shrinkage by package winding, which is simplified by reduced soft-winding or re-twisting process. The approach is expected to achieve high quality results in conventional process due to its feature of demage by tension and rubbing. Therefore package degumming has many merits such as reduce of pilling and shrinkage, production expenses saving by process contract are expected of the simplified degumming process.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.32-37
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• 2004

Gayageum and Geomungo are the traditional stringed music instrument in Korea. These strings are usually made of raw silk. This study was carried out to investigate the optimum condition for silk string producing method using several kind of silk and setting temperature of silk string. If the ply of strings and twisting condition were same, tenacity and elongation of every silk strings were similar, in spite of silk strings prepared by physically different raw silk. On the other hand, in setting treatment of twisted string, it was disclosed that the proper setting temperature of silk strings were 11$0^{\circ}C$ for 20 min.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.557-566
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• 2022

This study aims to investigate Jinju silk companies, production items, and silk industry supporting projects from 2019 to 2021 in order to discuss the current status of the silk industry. The following are this study's methods: First, a list of Jinju silk companies that have been operating for the past three years (2019-2021) was prepared to investigate the current status of the Jinju silk industry. Second, an investigation was conducted into the representative products produced in Jinju over the past three years; this investigation was conducted using direct interview. Third, an investigation was conducted on the projects that supported the Jinju silk industry over the past three years, and the list of members of the Gyeongnam Textile and Jinju Silk Industry Cooperative Association-a facility of Gyeongsangnam-do Province, the Jinju City Hall brochure (2019), and the SMINFO(SMall business status INFOrmation System) were utilized for this purpose. The following are the results: First, Jinju silk companies are classified into four categories, namely weaving, dyeing, twisting, and designing companies. According to data from 2021, 83% (34 of 41) of silk companies were weavers. Second, the demand for solid fabrics has increased over the past three years. The demand for patterned jacquard fabrics in producing Hanbok and Western-style clothing has decreased. Third, support for the Jinju silk industry could be classified into five categories: support for the operation of silk research institutions, support for the diversification of Jinju silk, support for the promotion of Jinju silk, support for the operation of silk manufacturers, and others.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.33-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.132-136
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• 1995

This study was carried out to elucidate the effective of some swelling agents on the soaking treatment of raw silk. The swelling of raw silk is commonly practiced by soaking in warm water, However, it is not enough to weaving of raw silk. Therefore, the combination of some chemical agents were tested to improve the swelling ratio of raw silk. The pretreatment of raw silk in 0.4N sodium carbonate aqueous solution before soaking in the mixed solution of Emulon 1 g/l, Emanol 0.5 g/l and 0.04N sodium silicate increased the swelling ratio by 57%, compared to the nontreatment. In SEM observation, the surface of raw silk soaked in swelling agents was swollen and smoothed.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.41-47
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• 2005

Kayagum is a traditional musical instrument in Korea. Kayagum strings are usually made of raw silk. It needs good vibration and durability. This study was carried out to increase durability of the strings by chemical treatment and manufacture of silk/polyester and silk/wild silk compound yarn. In this study, we used MKW-810(water solube acrylic adhesive)and polyvinyl alcohol as a adhesive. Before the twisting, the raw silk wet on the string manufacture process. The adhesive reagent were added in this process. And compound yarn were prepated by domestic silk, polyester and wild silk(antheraea pernyi) for make of Kayagum strings, respectively. The result are as follows. 1. Tenacity and elongation of the strings are almost same between none and chemical treatment. However number of extension cycling to breaks of the strings was largely increased by chemical treatment. Number of extension cycling to breaks of the strings is very important and useful item to check durability of the strings. The stiffness of the strings were almost same between none and adhesive treatment 2. Tenacity of the silk/polyester strings is largely decreased by increasing of polyester portion, but elongation of the silk/polyester strings increased. However tenacity of the silk/polyester(mono filament) strings are higher than that of silk strings. 3. Tenacity of the domestic silk/wild silk strings is largely decreased by increasing of wild silk portion, but elongation of the domestic silk/wild silk strings is almost same among silk and domestic silk/wild silk strings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.102-115
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• 2011

This study is about reproduction of Yoseon-Cheobli excavated from Byun-su tomb in earlier Joseon Dynasty. There are three Yoseon-Cheobli in Byun-su tomb. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Based on the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, the most frequently recorded one, was reproduced by dying fabric with safflower and indigo plants. Through the research about their specific size, sewing method and construction, it have been produced in the following. First, the revealing that collar to be half-square and to compose the line in the center of collar. The width of the collar is 11.6 12.1cm. Second, the 21~22 pairs of waist lines that are 13~14cm in width fixed at intervals of 0.3cm. The method of making waist lines is twisting either fabrics or silk threads. Third, fine gathering around the part of the waist of skirt, and the size of fold surface is 0.2cm. Sewing method needs running stitch and backstitch. As the result of producing the cloth, it became to possess more ornamental features after transformation suitable to the new environment while the same remained functional features for everyday life such as a dressing shape, length of the bodice and curvy completion line of a collar strip.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.319-331
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• 2018

The collection of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Korea, features a sansu folding screen that was created in 1940 to commemorate the sixtieth birthday of Soseok Kang Jin-Koo. It was created by six oriental painters, who were among the ten best painters in that era. The folding screen has been previously repaired and restored; however, owing to damage such as twisting of its wooden frame, abrasion, and moisture stains, rigorous conservation treatment is required. Hence, scientific research was conducted to analyze the textile, paper and pigments employed while creating the folding screen, to identify the associated material properties. Results showed that the textile used in the screen's picture and janghwang comprise synthetic fibers and natural fibers such as cotton and silk. Various types of papers were used in the folding screen, such as those from mulberry, herbaceous, and coniferous fibers. Furthermore, calcite deposits were found on the base of every picture, and certain colors employed by the artists appear to be produced from different pigments.