• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.38-43
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• 2004

1. 명주실현의 제조법을 구명하고자 상연과 하연의 꼬임수를 달리하여 시험한 결과 강력은 꼬임수가 적을수록 증가하였고 하연보다도 상연의 꼬임수의 영향이 컸다. 신도는 강도와 정반대의 결과를 나타내었다. 평균 하중에 대하여 60%에 대한 탄성반복회수는 강력과 같은 경향이었고 그 차이가 뚜렷하였고 탄성 신장률은 신도와 비슷한 경향이었다. 탄성률은 강도와 같이 꼬임수가 증가할수록 저하되었다. 관능평가 결과 꼬임수가 적으면 농현이 부족하여 어느 정도 이상의 꼬임이 필요하였다. 2. 명주실의 하연 정도가 물성에 미치는 영향을 조사하기 위하여 상연의 꼬임수를 고정하고 하연의 꼬임수를 달리한 결과 꼬임수가 많아질수록 현의 강력은 감소하였고 신도는 증가하였다. 현의 탄성률은 강력과 비슷한 경향을 나타내었다. 3. 상연중에 하연의 꼬임수를 주지 않을 때는 현의 강력이 순차적으로 커지고 하연의 꼬임수를 상연 꼬임속도의 85%를 줄 경우에는 현의 강력이 순차적으로 감소하였다. 그러나 하연의 꼬임수를 상연속도의 40% 줄 경우에는 현의 처음이나 마지막의 강력이 일정하게 유지하게 됨을 알 수 있었다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.16-22
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• 2006

Process contract has received considerable attention in silk degumming processes because of its critical role in quality assurance. In degumming, process exhibits shrinkage of high twisted yarn and lot-varying behavior, thus increasing the difficulties of reduction by conventional means. This necessitates the application of a package that adapts to changing degumming process, and a new approach involving package degumming is proposed. The gains of this process are prevent of shrinkage by package winding, which is simplified by reduced soft-winding or re-twisting process. The approach is expected to achieve high quality results in conventional process due to its feature of demage by tension and rubbing. Therefore package degumming has many merits such as reduce of pilling and shrinkage, production expenses saving by process contract are expected of the simplified degumming process.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.32-37
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• 2004

1. 생사의 종류가 명주실 현에 미치는 영향을 구명하기 위하여 시험한 결과 강력과 신도가 각기 다른 4가지의 생사로 만든 명주실 현은 강력과 신도는 생사 때보다 그 차이가 줄어들어 생사종류에 따른 차이는 없었다. 2. 명주실 현의 연고정 온도 시험에서 현의 강력은 80∼11$0^{\circ}C$ 사이에서는 차이가 적었으나 12$0^{\circ}C$에서 저하되었고 절단하중 70%에서의 절단까지의 반복회수는 11$0^{\circ}C$까지는 큰 차이가 없다가 12$0^{\circ}C$에서 현저히 저하되었으므로 이러한 물성을 감안하면 11$0^{\circ}C$ 20분정도가 적당하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.557-566
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• 2022

This study aims to investigate Jinju silk companies, production items, and silk industry supporting projects from 2019 to 2021 in order to discuss the current status of the silk industry. The following are this study's methods: First, a list of Jinju silk companies that have been operating for the past three years (2019-2021) was prepared to investigate the current status of the Jinju silk industry. Second, an investigation was conducted into the representative products produced in Jinju over the past three years; this investigation was conducted using direct interview. Third, an investigation was conducted on the projects that supported the Jinju silk industry over the past three years, and the list of members of the Gyeongnam Textile and Jinju Silk Industry Cooperative Association-a facility of Gyeongsangnam-do Province, the Jinju City Hall brochure (2019), and the SMINFO(SMall business status INFOrmation System) were utilized for this purpose. The following are the results: First, Jinju silk companies are classified into four categories, namely weaving, dyeing, twisting, and designing companies. According to data from 2021, 83% (34 of 41) of silk companies were weavers. Second, the demand for solid fabrics has increased over the past three years. The demand for patterned jacquard fabrics in producing Hanbok and Western-style clothing has decreased. Third, support for the Jinju silk industry could be classified into five categories: support for the operation of silk research institutions, support for the diversification of Jinju silk, support for the promotion of Jinju silk, support for the operation of silk manufacturers, and others.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.33-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.132-136
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• 1995

생사의 제조준비 공정으로 침지처리시 생사의 팽화도를 향상시키고 처리시간을 단축하고저 몇가지 약제를 병용처리한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 생사를 침지처리만 하여도 생사의 팽화도는 무처리에 비하여 34% 향상되었다. 2. Oil 첨가 시험결과 계면활성제 수용액에 Emanol 0.5g/l을 첨가함으로서 생사의 팽화도를 향상시킬 수 있었다. 3. 유기용매와 파라핀, 글리세린의 첨가는 생사의 팽화도에 미치는 영향은 적었다. 4. 염류중에서는 규산소다를 첨가할때 생사가 부드러워 지므로 팽화제로 적당하였다. 또 전처리시에 염류를 첨가하여 진공침투 처리함으로서 보다 생사의 팽화도를 향상시킬 수 있었다. 5. 지금까지의 생사 침지처리 방법을 종합적으로 검토하면 침지 전처리로서 sodium carbonate 0.4N 용액에서 진공침투처리(70 cmHg, 2회)후 Emulon 1g/l, Emanol 0.5g/l, sodium silicate 0.04 N, 속비 1 : 40, 온도 35$^{\circ}C$에서 2시간 침지처리한 후 수세, 탈수, 건조하는 방법이 가장 우수하였는데 무처리에 비하여 생사의 팽화도를 57% 향상시킬 수 있었다.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.41-47
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• 2005

1. 가야금 줄의 내구성을 향상시키기 위하여 가야금 줄에 acrylic adhesive와 poly(vinyl alcohol)을 병용 처리한 결과 강려과 신도는 차이가 없었으나 하중 70%에서 절단할때까지의 반복회수는 화학가공처리 현이 무 처리한 현보다 48% 향상되었으므로 현의 내구성을 크게 향상시킬 수 있었으나 흡습율이 무처리 현보다 높았다. 2. 현의 내구성을 증대시키고 음량을 풍부하게 할 목적으로 생사와 polyester사의 혼합비율을 달리하면서 생사/폴리에스텔 복합현을 제조하고 물성을 조사한 결과 polyester사의 비율이 많아질수록 강력이 감소하였고 신도는 증가하여 가야금 줄로서 적당하지 않았으나 mono filament 사로서 강력이 우수한 polyester사를 사용하여 복합현을 만든 SSP 복합현의 경우 생사로 만든 현보다 강력이 우수하였다. 3. 새로운 현의 소재를 개발하기 위하여 생사(가잠사)와 작잠사와의 복합현을 제조하고 그 물성을 조사한 결과 가잠사/작잠사 복합현의 강력은 작잠사와 비율이 많아질수록 저하되었다.

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.102-115
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• 2011

This study is about reproduction of Yoseon-Cheobli excavated from Byun-su tomb in earlier Joseon Dynasty. There are three Yoseon-Cheobli in Byun-su tomb. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Based on the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, the most frequently recorded one, was reproduced by dying fabric with safflower and indigo plants. Through the research about their specific size, sewing method and construction, it have been produced in the following. First, the revealing that collar to be half-square and to compose the line in the center of collar. The width of the collar is 11.6 12.1cm. Second, the 21~22 pairs of waist lines that are 13~14cm in width fixed at intervals of 0.3cm. The method of making waist lines is twisting either fabrics or silk threads. Third, fine gathering around the part of the waist of skirt, and the size of fold surface is 0.2cm. Sewing method needs running stitch and backstitch. As the result of producing the cloth, it became to possess more ornamental features after transformation suitable to the new environment while the same remained functional features for everyday life such as a dressing shape, length of the bodice and curvy completion line of a collar strip.

• 복식
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.319-331
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• 2018

국립현대미술관 소장품인 '산수'는 1940년에 제작된 6폭 구성의 병풍이다. 10대가로 불리던 서화가 6명이 제작에 참여한 합작품으로 소석 강진구 선생의 회갑을 축하하기 위한 축수의 목적으로 제작되었다. 과거 수리된 부분이 확인되었음에도 불구하고 병풍틀의 뒤틀림, 습기얼룩 및 오염 등 보존상태가 양호하지 않아 장기적 보존 및 전시활용을 위해 보존처리가 진행되었다. 또한 재질특성을 확인하고자 제작에 사용된 직물섬유, 종이섬유, 안료에 대한 과학적 조사와 분석을 실시하였다. 분석 결과, 화본 및 회장비단에 사용된 직물섬유는 면, 견 등의 천연섬유와 함께 합성섬유가 사용되었음을 확인할 수 있었다. 병풍 속틀에 사용된 종이의 경우 닥나무 인피섬유, 초본류, 침엽수 섬유 등 다양한 수종이 관찰되었다. 안료분석 결과, 모든 작품의 바탕층에서 Calcite가 확인되었고, 색상별 일부 착색안료는 작가에 따라 차이를 보였다.