• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2013

Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.565-574
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• 1998

The purpose of the study was to determine the effect of air velocity on the thermal resistance of wool ensembles. Three suits for men with different weaving structure and density were made with the same design and size for the study. In addition, Y-shirt, underwear, and socks were prepared for constructing the ensembles. Thermal insulation of air layer and 3 ensembles were measured by using thermal manikin in environmental chamber controlled at 2$0^{\circ}C$ and 65% RH with various air velocity. The results were as follows: 1. Thermal resistance of air layer was 0.079 m2.$^{\circ}C$/W with no air velocity(less than 0.2m/sec). 2. Thermal resistance of air layer decreased with increasing the air velocity rapidly. When the air velocity was 0.25 and 2.89 m/sec, the decreasing rate was 15% and 61%, respectively compared with no air velocity. 3. While there was little difference among the effective thermal insulation of 3 ensembles having different weaving structure and density with no air velocity, there was sharp difference among them when the air velocity increased. That is, the decreasing rate of effective thermal insulation of the ensemble which has higher air permeability was higher. 4. The decreasing rates of the effective thermal resistances of plain, twill and satin ensemble were 61, 54, and 49%, respectively when the air velocity was 2.89 m/sec which was a maximum air velocity in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.1 s.160
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of Hand between on- and off-line by structure and sensible characteristics of fabric. 113 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the subjective evaluation of Hand of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. T-test and pearson correlation coefficient were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study were as follows: The results of correlation analysis of the evaluation score indicated that Crash and Satin show high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. But, fabrics which have distinct characteristics such as Plush, Dobby, Seersucker represented low correlation coefficient. The results of t-test fer the difference of the evaluation score showed that thin fabrics like Organdy represent a large difference between on- and off-line evaluation. On the other hand, twill weaved fabrics like Drill, Tweed, Saxony did not show many differences. Analysing each item in terms of correlation of evaluation of hand between on- and off-line gave results that the shininess was most deliverable through on-line and density and the dryness was not so deliverable through on-line. Comparison of evaluation score between on- and off-line items showed that the estimation to real fabric is more negative than that of on-line. The results of most preferable hand between on-and off-line showed exact opposite preference between shinny, smooth and soft Satin and rough, woolen Tweed. Organdy showed the most different subjective evaluation of hand in real ones compared with that of on-line.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.199-203
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• 2003

In order to investigate the effects of cross-sectional shapes on the sound characteristics of polyester fibers, 10 specimens were woven into a twill structure made of round, hollow, triangular, u-shape, cruciform, and composite cross-sectional (▲/▲ ,()/▲, Y/Y) fibers. Their rustling sounds were recorded, and their sound spectra were obtained from FFT analysis. Physical sound parameters (LPT, ΔL, Δf) and Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters of the loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z) were calculated from the sound spectra. According to noncircular cross-section fibers, the hollow shaped fiber had the highest value of LPT, ΔL, loudness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z). The triangular shaped fiber had a lower value of LPT, ΔL, loudness(Z), and roughness(Z) than those of the round shaped fiber. Among composite cross-section fibers, C1(▲/▲) and C3 (Y/Y) had higher values of LPT, ΔL, Δf and loudness(Z) but C2(()/▲) had lower values. Also the LPT, ΔL, sharpness(Z), and roughness(Z) values of different denier were similar to each other, but the Δf and loudness(Z) values increased as the denier increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 1985

To determine the change of the mechanical properties of the wool/polyester blend fabrics in proportion to blend ratio, 10 mechanical properties were measured on 6 blend fabrics by KES-F system. Blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics was increased by $20\%$, and the structure of the fabric were plain, 2/2 twill, respectively. And wearing performances in propoetion to blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics were investigated. In this experiment. the following conclusions were obtained with the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 1) The values of WT, RT in tensile properties. tensile energy and elongation, and RC in compressional properties were decreased. 2) The values of B, 2HB in bending properties, 2HG. 2HG 5 in shearing properties were increased. 3) Putting on clothes, wearing performance was bad because crumbling of shape and wrinkle were easily made an appearance. Particularly it was remarkably bad as blend ratio of polyester was expressed $60\%$.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.63-74
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• 2017

This study aims to contribute to the development of male incontinence underwear with an anti-aging effect that meets customer requirements by examining the types, sorts, sizes and specifications of male incontinence underwear currently sold on the market. The results of an analysis of a total of eight commercial products are as follows. 1) Among the samples, six types of incontinence underwear were of a pull-on style like regular underwear; two types were of a pad insertion style. With respect to the underwear design, four (50%) types of incontinence underwear were brief style. The rest were drawers (3, 37.5%). Only one was of a trunk (12.5%) style. 2) With respect to size, the percentage of Size 3 was 50%, followed by Size 4 (50%). Most of the size of the underwear uses hip measurement whereas Japanese products (3, 37.5 %) use waist circumference. 3) With respect to the materials of the incontinence underwear, natural fibers such as cotton were mostly used and a polyurethane or polyester was mixed to enhance the wearing sensation and stretchability of the underwear. Finally, for the structure of the pad area, a napping finish was the largest (3, 37.5%), single knit 2(25%), twill weave 2(25%), and rib weave 1.