• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.10 s.200
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• pp.105-113
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• 2004

This research was designed to investigate the preferred textiles for the jackets of college students. 105 subjects that majored in fashion design were surveyed. The subjects selected three favorite materials, according to the seasons, among 120 samples presented in a swatch book and their frequency of choice was tallied. The extent of the subjects' preference was compared by season and gender The results of this study were as follows: 1. College students preferred dark Grayish Brown plain variation wool Crossbred foremost as a textile for the spring and fan season. 2. White plain cotton Plisse was the most preferred material for summer. 3. Olive Gray cotton Corduroy was the most preferred textile for winter. 4. For thickness and weight, the textiles chosen for winter were thicker and heavier than those chosen for other seasons. 5. For fiber content, natural fiber such as wool were preferred for all seasons. 6. For the type of fabrics weave, a plain variation weave was preferred for spring and fall, twill was preferred for winter and plain weave was preferred for summer. 7. Collage students preferred gray and brown tones for the spring, fall and winter season. For color characteristics, solid fabrics were generally preferred and check patterns were especially preferred for the winter season. 8. Girl students generally preferred lighter and thinner fabrics than those chosen by boys.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.81-95
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.61-77
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• 2016

This study is to understand the meaning, the location, and the construction of Hyeonhun (玄纁) through the records and relics of the Chosun Dynasty. Hyeonhun means farewell gifts for the dead. Hyeonhun was very personal and was considered to be essential ritual supplies. it was newly made for not only first funeral(初葬), but also the second funeral(改葬), was individually made as well as in the couple funeral(夫婦合葬). the Hyeonhun ritual was performed while dressed in a simabok(緦麻服). The ritual started with washing of the hands(盥手) and deep bowing(再拜) twice. The Hyeonhun was placed on the lid of the inner coffin among the 3 coffins in Chosun tomb's way. The Hyeon was placed on the right side and the Hun on the left side of the lid.(玄右纁左). Hyeonhun are comprised of one, two, five of ten pieces. Most of the excavated Hyeonhun were two pieces : Hyeonhunsokbaek(玄纁束帛) consist of ten pieces, of which six were Hyeons and four were Huns. The records indicated that the materials used to make Hyeonhun was silk, but the excavated relics satin and twill, single gauze in the excavated relics advanced than the records.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.82-90
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• 2009

This research was made to manufacture the fabric for interior uses by spinning a low melting mono 4 denier PET staple fiber with a soluble 1.4 denier fine PET fiber. The blended yarn has a thickness ranging from 10's to 14's, and the soluble PET fine fiber was dissolved to make a pore in the polymer. Thereby a snap property was decreased and a resilience property was improved to be suitable for a functional synthetic leather. In order to attain the optimum condition, a mechanical property according to fineness, and mixing ratio of low melting polymer, warp density, weft density and blending ratio, and a heat contraction ratio according to blending ratio were experimented. The warp density, 220 T/inch of fine denier PET and the weft density, 64 T/inch of thick denier PET were generated to 4/4 both twill weave fabric having constant tensile property and thickness.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.67-72
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• 1987

This study was carried out for the optimum predegumming in the protease degumming process of silk fabrics by ocmparing the physical properties of silk fabrics degummed with different weight losses of predegumming. 1. In twill habutai, the stiffness of fabric was reduced and the smoothness was improved with increasing weight loss of predegmming, however, the soft feeling value which means the total handle value of medium fabric for lady, was maximum at 20% of predegumming weight loss. 2. In the case of crepe de chine representing thin fabric for lady, the anti-drape stiffness was relatively increased with 22% weight loss of predegumming. However, the other physical properties, such as the flexibility with soft feeling were less related to the degrees of predegumming.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.52-60
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• 1986

This study was carried out to compare the handle of silk fabrics degummed with Alkalase, Protease produced by bacteria, with of silkfabrics degummed with the soap-soda. 1. In twill habutae, the stiffiness of silk fabric degummed with Alkalase was lower than that of silkfabirc degummed with soap-soda. The soft feeling value which is meaning the total Mandle value of medium fabirc for lady, as well as the Smothness, were more improved in enzymatic degumming than in the soap-soda degumming. 2. In case of Crep De Chine representing thin fabric for lady, the stiffness and Anti-Drape stiffness of the fabric degummed with Alkalase were lower than those of fabric degummed with the soap-soda, but the fullness and the Flexibilit with smooth feeling which is meaning the Total Handle value were higher.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.99-112
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• 2008

The aim of the study was to look into the construction methods of historical corsetry and compare them with the construction methods of corsetry today. Through a comparative study, it was concluded that the design, material, sewing and functions of corsetry of a certain period are sum of the clothing techniques and fashion of the time. Corset was first appeared at the end of the 16th century. It has been through many changes in terms of items, materials, patterns, sewing methods in order to make right silhouettes of the time. Now corsetry has been developed into various items such as waist nipper, all-in-one, nipper bra, and girdle. All these items have a common purpose, that is to improve the body shape. The corsetry of the past was made of non stretchable materials, so they used to restrict body movements, and required individual fitting several times. Due to the development of thin durable stretchable fabrics, functional bones, and advanced sewing machines, construction methods of seam, hem and opening are simplified compare to their predecessors. Consequently corsetry became less weighted, easy to wear, easy to wash and easy to mass produce. Yet they have consistency in sewing techniques such as using bones or wires to support bodice shape, using durable twill fabrics over plain for attractive body shapes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.429-439
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• 2000

This study was aimed to investigate the handle and mechanical properties of silk woven fabrics according to the fabric structure and yarn types 56 male and female students evaluated 16 black specimens with semantic differential scale of 20 hand adjectives. Mechanical parameters such as surface properties, bending properties and compression properties were tested using by KES-FS system. Data were analyzed through factor analysis, pearson correlation coefficient and t-test using PC SAS package. The results were as follows: The hand adjectives were grouped as 4 'surface roughness', 'flexibility', ;sense of thermal', and 'dryness'. 'Surface roughness' was highly sensed at satin fabrics of hard-twist yarn, noil yarn and spun yarn, while it was not at the fabrics of normal satin and twill at all. 'Flexibility' was reverse to 'surface roughness'. Thermal sense was felt highly at satin fabrics of noil-yarn, while low at plain fabrics of normal yarn. 'Dryness' was high at satin fabrics of hard-twist yarn and while it was low at normal satin fabrics. Predicted equations for subjective hand from mechanical properties of fabrics were developed using Stevens's law and stepwise regression and the coefficients of determination were high.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2013

Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.459-471
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• 1974

This study was carried out on the thermal transmission on account of variation of weaves and researched on the selection of the most suitable weaves for warmth. Also the interrelation among the density, thickness and thermal transmission by different weaves was studied, the author has woven three fundamental weaves, five weaves derived from the fundamental weaves and two special weaves for the purpose of experiment. In weaving of fabrics for experiments the lever type hand loom was used. Testing of texture was carried out according to KS and ASTM. The thermal transmission was also tested by as cooling method which were developed by the author. The conclusions of experiments were as follows. 1. Matt weaves, honey comb weaves and satin weaves having long floating yarns have large cover factor and were thicker. these structures of the weaves were good in warmth. 2. Thermal transmission was reciprocated to the cover factor, thickness and value of cover factor multiplied by thickness : It was found that the weaves of woven fabrics for warmth had better use of satin weaves, Matt weaves, Granite weaves and Honey comb weaves. In the time of warmth is not the first purpose, had better use of Rib weaves. Plain weaves and Twill weaves with thin thickness and high thermal transmission.