• Title/Summary/Keyword: tweed

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A MORPHOLOGICAL STUDY ON THE SOFT AND HARD TISSUE FACIAL PROFILE OF HARMONIOUS KOREAN YOUNG ADULT FEMALES (조화된 측모상의 연경조직의 형태학적 연구 - 한국인 성인여자에 대하여 -)

  • KANG, GOO-HAN;Kinoshita, Z.
    • The korean journal of orthodontics
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.7-34
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    • 1986
  • 본 연구목적은 여자성인교정을 위한 치료목표를 수립하기 위한 기준을 설정하는데 있다. 이용된 연구자료는 96명의 한국인 TV탈랜트와 영화배우 또는 패션모델중 교합과 안모를 평가하여 선정된 30명의 측모두부X선규격사진이었으며 선정된 표본의 평균연령은 20.16세였다. 연구방법은 측모경조직분석을 위해 Downs분석, Northwestern분석, Steiner분석, Wylie분석, Tweed분석, Dimensional linear분석법이 이용되었고 측모연조직분석을 위해 Holdaway연조직분석법이 적용되었다. 조사된 계측치들은 Apple II 48K system을 이용하여 각항목에 대한 평균치와 표준편차를 산출하였으며 백인, 한국인, 일본인의 기존계측치와 비교하였다. 그 연구결과는 다음과 같다. I. 경조직분석 (1) 본 연구와 백인과의 비교 본 연구에서는 백인에 비해 하악이 후퇴되었고 상${\cdot}$하악절치는 순측경사를 보였다. 또한 하악하연경사가 심했다. (2) 본 연구와 한국인정상성인여자(이 연구)의 계측치 비교 이의 연구계측치에 비해서 상악이 후퇴되어있고 상${\cdot}$하악절치는 설측경사를 보였다. 따라서 본 연구의 안모형태는 이의 한국인정상성인여자에 비해서 직선형안모를 보였다. (3) 본 연구와 일본정상인의 계측치 비교 일본정상인에 비해 하악이 돌출되었고 상${\cdot}$하절치는 설측경사를 보였다. 또한 안모의 상부고경과 하악크기는 일본정상인에 비해 크게 나타났다. II. 연조직분석 연조직분석의 11항목중 H-선에 대한 연조직 subnasal과 하순의 계측치가 Holdaway의 acceptable range를 벗어났다. 그 이유는 본연구에서 하악이 상대적으로 후퇴양상을 보였기 때문이라고 사료된다. 이외항목의 계측치들이 acceptable range내에 있다는 것은 연조직이 경조직의 이동에 따라 움직이고 있음을 의미한다. III. Downs분석, Northwestern분석, Steiner분석, Wylie분석, Tweed분석, Dimensional linear measurements분석을 위한 평균치, 표준편차, Polygon도표를 작성함으로써 한국성인여자교정의 진단과 치료목표를 정하는데 지침이 된다고 사료된다.

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A Study on Making Fabric Images According to Fancy Yarn Structures Using the Computer (컴퓨터를 이용한 장식사의 구조 요인에 따른 직물이미지 제작에 관한 연구)

  • Sul, Jung-Hwa
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.56-62
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    • 2005
  • Fancy Yarn has developed diverse textures in fabrics, reducing the time in yarn and fabric production or apparel making in order to develop creative goods. In this study aimed to propose the use of a 4D box system to make fancy yarn shapes with loops, knops and spirals and the like. The change in texture was analysed and simulated to produce a suitable fabric image by using the fancy yarns fabric. The results are as follows. The plain weave, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 twill weave, 2/2 2 complete broken weaves, and 5 harness sateen weaves were woven and a fabric image formed. In the case of the loop and the knop yarns fabric image, compared to the twisted fabric image the surface was covered by loops or some parts became partially black. In the case of the spiral shape it showed pattern continuity in spiral shapes 1, 2 and 3. The more twisted spirals produced a diamond shaped pattern or a twill line and a herring bone shaped twill line. An evenly distributed black fabric image appeared in 5 harness sateen weave. For the loop shape the broken weave or 5 harness sateen weave was produced; basket weave and broken weave for the knop yarn 1 or knop yarn 2; and for the spiral shape a plain fabric or 5 harness sateen weave were produced much similar to the fabric image. The surface texture of the mapped image compared to the twisted fabric image produces fancy yarn fabric images covered with loops or irregular spots caused by the knop and the spiral. Therefore it is appropriate or suitable for the simulation of tweed or woolen wool fabrics. The fabric image which produced consistent and continuous lines is therefore more suitable for simulations of twill or herringbone fabric images.

The Comparison of Subjective Evaluation of Band between On-line and Off-line by Structure and Sensibilities of Fabric (직물의 구조와 감각특성에 따른 온라인과 오프라인에서의 주관적 태평가 비교)

  • Kim, Hee-Sook;Cho, Shin-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.1 s.160
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    • pp.1-10
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    • 2007
  • This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of Hand between on- and off-line by structure and sensible characteristics of fabric. 113 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the subjective evaluation of Hand of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. T-test and pearson correlation coefficient were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study were as follows: The results of correlation analysis of the evaluation score indicated that Crash and Satin show high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. But, fabrics which have distinct characteristics such as Plush, Dobby, Seersucker represented low correlation coefficient. The results of t-test fer the difference of the evaluation score showed that thin fabrics like Organdy represent a large difference between on- and off-line evaluation. On the other hand, twill weaved fabrics like Drill, Tweed, Saxony did not show many differences. Analysing each item in terms of correlation of evaluation of hand between on- and off-line gave results that the shininess was most deliverable through on-line and density and the dryness was not so deliverable through on-line. Comparison of evaluation score between on- and off-line items showed that the estimation to real fabric is more negative than that of on-line. The results of most preferable hand between on-and off-line showed exact opposite preference between shinny, smooth and soft Satin and rough, woolen Tweed. Organdy showed the most different subjective evaluation of hand in real ones compared with that of on-line.

A Study of Fabric Properties for Classified on Apparel Material Image (의류소재 이미지 분류에 따른 직물 특성 연구)

  • 박기윤
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.15-31
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    • 2001
  • Textile fabrication affected by consumer and selected by fashion designer. The textile fabrication has been made not only by introducing the newly developed fiber but also by modifying the existing textile materials to impart sensibility to them. Consumers choose but to their sensibility of textile material and fashion trend. On purpose in this research is find out have influence on textile image. Wool fabrics have been in use from early age in northern Europe. Recognition of the role of the morphological structure, surface properties, chemical composition, acid-base characteristics in the chemical treatment of wool led to quantum advances in the fields of setting, shrink-resisting, chemical modification, and internal fiber cross-linking. Mechanical finishing to develop the handle, drape, and surface characteristics of the fabric is at least as important as chemical or wet finishing. Result showed that to have variety sensibility and trend theme in wool fabrics are tweed, venetian, serge, gabardine and melton.

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AN ANALYSIS OF THE DENTO-FACIAL COMPLEX IN KOREAN (한국인 치아 및 안모형태에 관한 두부 X-선학적 연구)

  • Joo, Myung Ja
    • The korean journal of orthodontics
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.21-27
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    • 1970
  • 저자는 교정학의 진단 및 치료에 응용하기 위하여 한국인 10세 아동 남여 50명과 성인 남녀 106명의 두부측모 X-선사진을 사용하여 $Bj\ddot{o}k$, Downs, Steiner 씨 등의 씨 분석법에 의해 다음과 같은 계측치를 얻었다. (1) 정상교합자 10세 아동 남여 50명과 23세 성인 남녀 106의 표준편차표를 작성하였다. (2) Anterior Cranial Base에 대한 Mandibular Body의 비는 약 1:1.1로 나타났다. (3) T to Po의 비(Holdaway ratio)는 약 4.2:1로 나타났으며 Tweed Triangle은 각각 $32^{\circ},52^{\circ},96^{\circ}$로 나타났다. (4) 한국인은 백인에서 보다 하악신부의 후방위, 즉 하악골 후방위로 나타났으며 동시에 한국인은 백인보다 상하악 전치의 진측경사를 갖인 안모로 나타났다.

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The establishment of orthodontic web server multimedia database system for continuing education (임상교정 교육용 멀티미디어 데이터베이스 웹서버 구축에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Jae-Woo;Lee, Jong-Ki;Chang, Young-Il;Nahm, Dong-Suk;Kim, Myung-Ki;Yang, Won-Sik;Kim, Tae-Woo;Baek, Seung-Hak
    • The korean journal of orthodontics
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    • v.30 no.2 s.79
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    • pp.245-260
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    • 2000
  • The Objective of this research was to construct the multimedia database system that was necessary for the education of the practitioners and the students. To establish this system, there were technical problems as follows 1) The processing of the images, 2) The rapid processing of the information with the computer network, 3) The development of diagnosis tools, 4) The technique to establish the database system, 5) The link between the database system and the internet, and 6) The method to educate through many cases. The analysis for diagnosis and treatment planning were provided as two parts : model analysis and cephalometric analysis. As a model analysis, arch length discrepancy and Bolton tooth ratio were provided for the part of patient information. Cephalometric analyses were provided in the part of initial diagnosis. The Cephalometric analysis ver 2.0 and the PowerCeph pro 3.3.5 were used to show Tweed, Steiner and Jarabak analysis. In the main part, Kim's analysis and some measurements were added. In the post-treatment or retention part, we show the superimposition of the cephalometrics with which you can find the effectiveness of the various orthodontic treatment The address of this home page is "http://damis.snu.ac.kr/orthodontics"

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Images Positioning of Women's Formal Wear Brands - Tuning in the three department stores in Daejon -

  • Koo, In-Sook
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.9 no.3
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    • pp.8-21
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    • 2005
  • The purpose at this study was to analyze and to position the clothing images at women's formal wear brands carried by at least two department stores in Daejon, for providing data for a basic marketing strategy for fashion manufacturers and distributors. The results tram the study were as tallows; The brand that showed the highest classic image was 'BCBG'(83.6%), the brand that showed the highest feminine image was 'Obzee' (80.2%), the brand that showed the highest character image was 'Doho' (84.1%), and the brand that showed the highest mannish image was 'F.Station' (64.1%). On the brands image positioning map, brands, such as 'Deco', 'Mine', 'Time', and 'Anne Klein', lying on or near the point of intersection (where the vertical and horizontal axes meet) showed 4 types. They were 'smart & chic cluster', 'charming & luxury cluster', 'character elegance cluster', and 'sportive elegance cluster' that showed compound images. These clusters would be differentiated tram young casual lines by emphasizing the brands' shape and cut, higher quality fabrics and materials, and elegant and graceful colors. Analysis of target ages and tweed jacket prices for brands carried by at least two department stores showed that the target was between 23 and 50, and that the prices range from 198,000 won to 460,000 won.

A Study on the Change of Women's Sports Wear in the 19th Century (19세기 여성 Sports Wear 변천에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Yu-Kyung;Lee, Hee-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.203-219
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    • 2007
  • The education chance and job opportunity of women have increased in the 19th century. Also, women tried to get the right and chance equal to men in this period. Therefore, the population of women participating in the sports have increased. And comfortable and practical pantaloons which men have been wearing were suggested to women. This study investigated the characteristics and change of women's sports wear relating to social change in the 19th century. The results of this study were as follows: 1. According to the social change, women participated in the sports activities with the opportunity equal to men, and the appropriate women's sports wear was needed. 2. Pantaloons which were suggested as the clothing reform movement became popular with the development of sports wear. 3. Simple, effective, comfortable and easy style sports wear was preferred. 4. Women accepted men's sports wear positively. 5. The women's sports wear varied according to the various kinds of sports. 6. The healthful design was preferred and harmful design was excluded. 7. Underwear was improved functionally and simplified. 8. The main materials were flannel, wool, tweed, homespun and serge, and the mail colors were brown, dark blue, gray and black.

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Surrealist Art and Elsa Schiaparelli's Fashion Design (초현실주의 예술의 조형성과 Schiaparelli 의상디자인)

  • 장동림
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.28 no.2
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    • pp.1-14
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    • 1990
  • The purpose of this paper was to examine the relationship between Surrealism and Schiaparelli's fashion design in the 1930s. Surrealism, derived from Dadaism, was based on Freud's analysis of dream imagery and human sexual behavior. Its style was characterized by the partial figure and the dislocation of body part, and the placement of the figure and its part in unanticipated settings. The objective of Surrealism was to exploit the unconsciousness and the interpretation of the body became an abiding. Surrealists were interested in the nature of clothing and in the specific characteristic of fashion, so, they moved into the world of fashion; fashion advertising window display and fashion photograph. The fantasy of Surrealism stimulated Schiaparelli to use wit and shock tactics, bold and unusual combination of colors, striking embroideries with crazy themes like circus and astrology. The character of her clothes was boldness and chic. She created humorous trompe-l'oel sweater, leg of mutton sleeve, tweed evening suit, shocking pink, peculiar accessories such as hats and buttons. She collaborated with many artists like Dali, Cocteau and Berard, and drew on all the latest artistic trends into the fashion arena from Cubism and African Art to Surrealism. Her Surrelist dress provided a play of illusions and affected today;s avant-grade style.

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The Modernization of Stage Costume of Opera 『Faust』 -Focused on The Supporting Actors- (오페라 『Faust』의 현대적 무대의상 디자인 -남녀 조연을 중심으로-)

  • Byun, Zee-Hyun;Cho, Jean-Suk
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.10 no.2
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    • pp.138-146
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    • 2008
  • Opera costumes are a tangible medium to directly affect how opera singers performed. Therefore, stage costumes have been designed in various ways to reflect intentions of directors. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust" which was played in Sung-Nam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the supporting actors are drawn from this study. Martha wore a grey jacket and a long skirt with slash. Grey suit symbolized chastity but tight long skirt with slash means sexy. Valentin wore military and combat uniforms to express that he was a soldier. The military uniform represented the situation before the war and the combat uniform symbolized the situation after the war. Rather short trousers, a white tweed jacket, purple flower ornament, a light green vest, and a beret were used to express Wagner, who looked ridiculous and always tried to flirt. Overalls, a blue jumper, and a scarlet baseball cap were used to make Siebel look naive and homely. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency and meet the audience's needs for various style.