• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.49-66
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• 2007

Trench coat derived from military uniforms was one of the classical fashion items and has been endeared as everyday outfits thanks to useful traits. Since 1990s classical design of trench coat began to be modified and many variant styles were appeared after 2000s. Trench coat designs after 2000s were appeared as tradition type that was stick to basic British classic style, variation type that was changed in details, colors, materials, and silhouettes, evolution type that was changed into new items, deconstruction type that was dissolved and open-structured. Modern trench coat expressed modern chic, elegance feminine, stylish casual, military and gangster images. The characteristics of trench coat as classic fashion were utility for everyday life style, excellent ability to express images, and strong visual effects of characteristic details. Trench coat was timeless as classic fashion, at the same time, changed into new fashion styles suitable for the sense of the times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.814-827
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• 2012

This study analyzed the presentation trend of a checklist method for trench coat designs. Through this analysis, this study examined the flow of trench coat designs and presents future design directions. Research was conducted in the following method. A total of 1,307 female trench coat photos were selected from the photos presented in the top 4 collections from 2006 to 2011. These photos were used for analysis and frequency analysis was conducted. Among the checklist methods presented in trench coats, the modification type was most common, followed by the elimination type, conversion type, combination type, minimization type, addition type, and magnification type, respectively. Checklist methods were continuously presented even while increasing and decreasing according to the year and season. This showed that it was highly possible for checklist methods to be continuously applied in future trench coat designs. Generally, a high frequency of appearance was shown in 2010 and during the F/W season. According to the development direction of future trench coat designs applied with the checklist method, it is predicted that the modification type and the elimination type (which have generally displayed high appearance frequency) will be continuously magnified in the future. In particular, it is expected modifications in structural details (which have showed an upward trend in 2011) will be further magnified.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.97-116
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to analyze the trench coat designs shown in the latest collection by using a checklist method among many fashion design idea methods and then investigate the trend of trench coat design in multilateral directions. As for the research method, 1,307 photos selected from the photos of women's trench coats publicized from 2006 until 2011 were used for the analysis and then a frequency analysis was conducted. As a result, the types of checklist methods shown in trench coats included modification type, elimination type, conversion type, combination type, minimization type, addition type, and magnification type. In the modification type, the modification of color to the back side stood out; in the elimination type, the design eliminating epaulet stood out ; in the conversion type, conversion to jacket among many items stood out. In the combination type, the combination between different material texture and identical colors among colors stood out ; in the minimization type, the design minimizing sleeves stood out; in the addition type, the addition of sleeves among many details stood out ; in the magnification type, the design magnifying panels stood out.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.87-99
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the successful modernization strategy, and the difference between original Burberry and Burberry Prosum design. This will help in providing the fundamental information to Korean luxury fashion brands. Burberry, in particular, is rated as the most popular luxury brand in Korean fashion market. This brand has also rated 5th in sale worldwide and 1st in Korea in 2002, and was continuously been rated in 10th for the last 5 years. Related articles, fashion magazines, fashion web-site were used in this analysis, and the method was theoretical and case study. The results are divided into two categories of internal and external factors and two design patterns of check pattern and trench coat were observed. First of all, internal factor in Burberry is that they have scouted a new CEO and quickly changed their image with famous British models for the purpose of marketing strategies. They have also moved their main shop in London to Bond street, and opened shops in every country's capital cities. They were successful in achieving this by using celebrity marketing strategies with many famous celebrities. Secondly, external factor was that they have hired a designer named Christoper Bailey and this highlighted and enhanced the check pattern and trench coat. As a results, more generalized and diverse design items were presented and accessory line was enhanced, creating a much more younger image. This in turn attracted more younger customers. To sum up, original Burberry focused on classic designs, however Burberry Prosum focused on transforming traditional Burberry design into avant-garde and young. In other words, the reason for the success of this brand is highly dependent on its marketing strategies in which its uniqueness of schizophrenic cloche has appropriately represented and used in design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.157-167
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• 2015

This study was initiated to understand design and detail characteristics of coats that targeted new senior women by analyzing shape, color, fabric and detail. For the new senior, youthful appearance has more appeal than products that represent elder's style. Among, the coat can be effectively utilized as a trendy fashion item that targets seniors since it is more useful to hide figures than pants, blouses or jackets. The objectives of this research were to: First, examine design characteristics of new senior women's coat. Second, understand design characteristics of new senior women's coat. Third, analyze the relationship between the design of collars and details according to type of new senior women's coat. Photographs collected were categorized according to type of coat. Three types of coat (balmacaan, redingote and trench) were chosen to analyze with the highest frequency. The results of analyzing shape, length, color and fabric of the products made in domestic and foreign brands were similar; however, the collar and way of fastening showed significant results that required specific analysis since the design elements were related to maincoat characteristics in protecting against the cold. The depth of the V-zone can change without change of collar width and design changes in V-zone that influence the coat image that lead to changes in sleeve type and length (or fastening and closing position) method.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.147-165
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop design of maternity dress combined with nursing. Six maternity wears combined with nursing were developed through the literature, preceding studies, and web sites those were about pregnancy, breast feeding, a maternity wear, and a nursing wear. The results of this study were as follows: 1. In order to develop clothes of diverse styles and designs, an after five dress, a poncho style blouse, wrap culotte as well as a skirt suit, a pants suit, an one-piece dress were designed. 2. It was established to make more amounts of front ease than those of back ease and to supplement a frontal hanging portion in consideration of breast development and abdominal prominence. 3. In order to make use of a maternity wear after a birth, stretch fabric was used for an abdominal part or whole clothes. Also an empire line and pleats, a poncho style, a shirts blouse, and inserting a string were used for it. 4. the fabrics of cotton, mixed cotton, polyester were used because pregnant women and nursing mothers perspires more than others do. 5. The horizontal, vertical, diagonal slits for a breast feeding were made. The storm flap of a trench coat, a machine pleated fabric, a poncho, a bolero style were used for a nursing cover.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.82-97
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• 2016

This study attempted to summarize the characteristics of fashion in the 1930s which were the background of 'Bonnie and Clyde' and analyze how fashion in the 1930s was expressed through costume in the movie, focusing on some critical scenes. For this, previous studies and domestic & foreign books, magazines and DVDs relating to movie costume were examined. For analysis of movie costume, 'Bonnie and Clyde (1967)' DVD was referred to. In the movie, meaningful scenes were captured using a GOM Player. Then, the study results found the followings: First, in terms of women's fashion in the 1930s, adult look and slim & long silhouette which naturally revealed breast, waist and hip with a long skirt, a military look with strong shoulders and tailored costume were found. In terms of men's fashion, in contrast, the Duke of Windsor Style (a slim silhouette jacket and loose pants) was popular. Second, in the movie, Bonnie's costume started with a slim linen H-line dress at her first meeting with Clyde. While committing crimes and becoming a famous gangster, she displayed the fashion styles which were in vogue in the 1930s such as fancy and luxurious slim dress, tailored suit and trench coat. Third, in terms of Clyde's costume, from his first meeting with Bonnie to his first crime, he put on common costume (ex: pants, vest, shirts, etc.) which revealed his open and unconventional character. After he became a famous gangster, he would wear the Duke of Windsor style (jacket, vest and pants). The study results well describe movie costume's role as visual language which expresses characters' inner circumstances and outer situations that reflect socio-cultural background.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.66-78
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• 2004

A leather clothes which was a representative item of an existed resistant image created a new esthetics. Cyber Resistance, being mixed with the highlighted cyber image in these days. Especially. the image of such new leather clothes appears apparently in SF movies. The purpose of this study is to examine this new esthetics through the leather clothes of the movie. $\ulcorner$Matrix$\urcorner$. currently becoming the subject of a conversation and affecting to a popular culture and the fashion and to help to the design idea of a unique leather clothes. The result of analyzing of the character in the movie is following. Trinity shows herself as a woman warrior by wearing tight black leather suit. Morpheus is described as a vague character with his old fashioned suit and leather trench coat. while Niobe carries an image of rebellious cyber warrior in her leather suit with unique texture. In addition. leather clothes on $\ulcorner$Matrix$\urcorner$ got the name of Matrix look and became a main theme in fashion collection. We can feel 'Cyber Resistance' esthetics in that leather clothes through the movie and fashion collection and summarize into three following features, First. it's grafted into the dichotomous value by progress and return as a retro futurism. Second. it moderately express a rebellious image of punk into a cyber image. Third. it makes cyber warrior's image that is neutralized mixing military and fetish properly.