• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.54-66
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• 2012

This research analyzes the late Joseon's variously developed characteristics of women's underwear and its formative elements, and ultimately aims to apply such characteristics to designing modern outfits. The main purpose of the presented work is to give guidelines on utilizing the fashion legacy in a various way, and inheriting the traditional concept of beauty by developing it into modern fashion designs. The designing and producing of the work is based on the analysis of previous researches, genre paintings, and traditional costumes in museums. Based on this research, the application of traditional underwear design to today's outfits involves the following points. First, the presented work features the formative outlines of traditional underwear as an inspiration for outer garments. Secondly, various traditional textiles are used such as ramie fabrics, damask silk, silk fabrics, fur, etc. for four seasons and they are turned to practical use for modern outfits. Third, colors of choice are white and low saturation colors to create an elegant and serene atmosphere. Finally, traditional sewing techniques are specifically applied to modern fashion designs. Included are: Nubim technique, Gob-sol technique, and the patching method. This work pursues the design of practical use by tying up clothes with straps and knots to prevent them from falling off.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.15-30
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• 1990

From now, we've made a study of Korean Clothing about our Royal family's or high birth person's and made little of our plain folk's. Our traditional clothing is plain folk's clothing and that is our fundamental clothing, so plain folk's clothing has an important part in our life. In this point, first we were concerned about the plain folk woman's clothing in the plain folk's clothing and it consists of the way of ethnographic method like listening from the lod about their contant living wear-daily wear. This research covers the time from the end of the Yee-Dynasty to 1950's and the place, each province where the primitive dwellers still live and respondent's age range is about from 60 to 80. In the viwepoint of our climate and construction, women should be over-worn an underwear and they have worn the underwear for the purpose of their heating and the inflating of the skirt. The end of the Yee-Dynasty, high society person wore underwear 7-8 layers thick and also the sow society person wore it 3-4 layers thick. The Plain folk woman clothing's basic system is the skirt and Korean jacket and dari-sok-got, sok-sok-got, pants, dan-sok-got as an underwear, and Korean socks and Korean shoes(straw shoes) are added. This research discusses these clothing by dividing them into each part and enlighten the peculiarity, shape, cloth and how to construct and especially about the difficult-making Korean jacket, we handled the method of rough guess sizing. As the result, we found that each province had a similar peculiarity in the general clothing but they had a different cloth name and a wearing method. Especially, An-dong an Eum-sung, they'd worn their own traditional wear, sal-chang-hojaengiee. We made a good product of rough guess sizing data those have not been known.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.325-341
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• 1997

One of the noticeable trends of female wear in 1990s is the Outwearization of Underwear as it is called 'Lingerie look' This trend meaned 'Exposure Fashion' raised splendidly its head to the whole stage of fashion destrying the tradional concept having divided the fashion between outwear and underwear by Madonna an Americal populer singer showed up in front of the audience wearing the corset-dress as a stage custome. This corset-dress which can not be recognised whether it is underwear or outwear has been diffused into the mass as a fashionable trend re-gardless of any reason; therefore discrimi-nation of wear by space by far that is underwear should have the sstandard telling between private and public sector has been gradually tumbled. By the way what has propelled desigers to introduce the style continuously having the underwear motive such as outwear almost as same as underwear or underwear worn on out-wear etc. and has made it a fashion trends? How do we accept this "Ligerie look'fashion" The rearch on vogue of outwearization of underwear started by the questions above can be summarized as the followings The division between the sprit and the ma-terial-economic shrinkage by the collapse of the bubble economy in the late of 20 century and expectation for the next century doubt by changes of international politics dynamics for the next century and increasement of psycho-logical tention by the environmental destruc-tion etc, has been extended to break the sense of value down These frustration of the tra-ditional values and dissatisfaction on the pres-ent have reflected on the fashion pursuing some more sensational style to increase the ex-posure of the body. The revolution of wearing bouncing the con-servatismhas outwardly expressed underwear of the private sector. Therefore the spatial concept of wear which for the public sec-tor has been fallen into pieces and has broken the wall of the concept fixed by outwear on underwear. in addition the stage costome for the popular people like Madonna has not been limited by the specularity any more and has been assimilated with the normal wear on the street to take the distinction for away. The circumstances of the late of 20 century pursuing sensation and making sex commer-cialized have accordance with the outweari-zation of underwear. there it is on the basis of Minimalist's dogmatism has been expressed the maximization of expoure in the pubric space to popularize bra pants(knickers) as outwear. The reaction on the attribute of hiding and shanding has brought 'See-Through fashion' with the transparent materials, The contemporary doubt recalling the mem-ory of the past has sublimated corset which was an instument of toture for women into Romanticism to introduce it to fashion with the development of a new material not to be a tool of any oppression and maltretment any longer. The popularization of outwear like underwear what's more has brought high quality of underwear. There it has called for the variety of materials such as knit demin and velvet etc, and has urged the famous designers to enlarge their working boundaries to underwear designs, Besides outwearization of underwear has been popular even in the Orient which has the con-servative opinions on exposure ; so changes of the thoughts can be seen among the establish-ment generation on exposure of the body. As the more high tech information publi-cized and the more technology and media digitalized the more expression being analog the pursue for the new in fashion with vision never been seen and even though it is imprac-tical the experimental designers have drived the freedom beyond the traditional roles of the previous century. Consequently outwearization of underwear may be viewd as a trial as an expression responded the contemporary background. This trend in my opinion will have been lasted for a while by being proliperlated among lasted for a while by being proliperlated among the pub-lic who has the century-end anxiety and doubt and expectation for the next century.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.574-581
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• 2010

Trunks like men's underpants are similar to boxer shorts and are made in both modern and traditional styles. Like boxer shorts, trunks cover the mid-section of the body (hence the name "trunk"). As the income level of the nation increases, men as well as women become interested in fashion expressing the individual's character, by not regarding fashion as simply wearing essential items to live in. Men's interest in fashion influences men's underwear designs which has been thought previously just as to be worn for living in. Nowadays, trunks are often worn as lounge wear in the household, therefore the need for sensual and characteristic trunks designs is required in the fashion market to meet the customer's new needs. In modern fashion designs, Chinese letters have been artistically presented and used in decorative fashion design regardless of its original meaning, generally embroidered in traditional costumes. Based on the fact that Chinese letters containing lucky meanings have traditionally been used, other Chinese letters meaning positive and prospective future can be adapted and weaved into men's trunks designs. Therefore, in this study, among many good meaning Chinese letters; four Chinese letters, 高(high), 金(gold), 義(justice), 愛(love), have been selected and applied in the trunks designs. The purpose of this study is to develop men's trunk designs using these Chinese letters which can be massively produced and sold in Asian countries which commonly understand the meaning of the Chinese letters as well as in South Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1261-1274
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• 1997

Contemporary costume by the 'Deconstruction' from the outside has shown disclosure, destruction, poverty and analysis. The conclusion of this thesis as follows, 1. The Deconstruction of disclosure by infra disclosed the underwear and inner structure outside, which has deconstructed a fixed idea i.e.'underwear must be in outwear', modesty versus immodesty and disclosure versus concealment. 2. The Deconstruction of destruction originated in punk look has rejected traditional manners and utility, at the same time, it has shown the ambivalence i.e. completeness versus incompleteness, making versus destructing by slashes, rips, fringes. 3. The Deconstruction of poverty has appeared as French avangarde mode, little black dress by Chanel, second hand style by hippy, blue jean, granny look, especially Rei Kawakubo's poor look influenced by Zen Aesthetics and post punk. It has looked like old and worn out dress by doing patchwork, dye, decolor, rip, fray, which has shown the decentring by concealing the body than disclosing, rejecting snobbery. 4. The Deconstruction of analysis, seemingly partial and patched is a violation only of our expectation of clothing's unbroken entity though it has looked like a fragment. The completeness and coherence of it is made more evident by its breach, void, and bond like a poetic language. As the result, disclosed, destructed, poor, and analytical costumes has expressed as an escape from the appearance which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.105-116
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• 2000

In the middle of the 20th century the traditional wedding costumes in Chungchung district were very similar to those of high officials. A bridegroom out on blue DanRyoung, Samo, official belt, buckskin and two cranes figured Hyoongbae which high-ranking officials wore, A bride put green Wonsam and Chonkduri on her hair, The color and cloth of Chogori, Chima and underwear showed wedding practice in those days on which a daughter-in-law should endure a hard married life. It reflects the Confucian ideas and a patriarch society. This paper studies on the substantive reason they wore the traditional wedding costumes in Chungchung district is not thoroughly considered in a folkloristic respect. The traditional wedding culture that a bridegroom and a bride wore a formal suit can be a good instance which showed us their desire for social status of the upper class. The wedding practices were performed in order to get rid of an omen and keep a good their fortune.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.327-338
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• 2001

The purpose of this thesis is to study the aspects of sex identity in the contemporary mens fashion expressed through sexual image and taste in the half of twentieth century. The aspects of sex identity expression in the contemporary mens fashion can be classified by image, that is, homosexual, heroic, bisexual, and fetish. 1. The homosexual image has shown the tendency to emphasize the masculinity since 1950.60s. It can be found in \"Cowboys costume\" which is typical of American traditional fashion, and jeans and underwear fashion expressed by muscular men has homosexual characteristics which contain narcissism. 2. Based on mens traditional gender role, the heroic image emphasizes mens physical characteristics and expresses tough and offensive masculine beauty in mens suit which is free from the authority and formality. 3. The bisexual image denied the division of gender role by costume and destroyed the traditional sex model by resolutely applying womens costume such as skirts to mens fashion. 4. The fetish image is similar to bisexual image in that they wear womens costume, but different in that it expresses sexual desire or fantasy. It is expressed through brilliant color, leather and metal ornaments, and sensual element of women which emphasizes \"body\". This shows the sex identity of contemporary men who want more sensible and free life.sible and free life.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2014

Entering the twentieth century, corsets began to disappear with the tendency of concentrating on slim bodies and youth. As corsets proceeded to be discarded, they began to be internalized as a means of controlling the body; 'muscular corset' takes hold. However, the internalized corset increasingly appears to be externalized again in contemporary fashion. This study investigates how natural body is reconstructed as socio-cultural image drawing on the relationship between the signifier and signified of corset. As for the research methodology this study conducts literature survey to investigate the internalization of corset. This study proceeds to examine the subjects of fashion collections from 1980 to 2010 and samples the outfits which represent the externalization of corset through case analysis. Through the discussion of the study, the relationship of signifier and signified in the externalization of corset is argued as follows: first, by maintaining signifier and signified of the traditional corset as underwear, aggressive eroticism of corset has been observed, second, by perceiving corset as the agency of the body, fetishism of corset dissociates the function of sexual object from corset while distorting the relationship of signifier and signified, third, through embodying the notion of muscular corset literally, the ironical representation of corset as a torturing device of female body deconstructs the traditional relation of signifier and signified of corset.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.657-675
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• 2020

This study suggests a direction for design development through an analysis of the experiential rental Hanbok design in Jeonju Hanok Village. As a research method, 268 outfit photographs of tourists wearing experiential rental Hanbok for women were collected as design analysis data from Jeonju Hanok Village. Frequency analysis was then performed by dividing into form, color, material·pattern, and detail. The controversy over the design of experiential rental Hanbok revolves around how and how much tradition is reflected. This is a very important part of the design analysis and development direction. If necessary, traditionality was discussed using the Hanbok style of the Joseon Dynasty as a standard. Development directions derived from the analysis are summarized as follows. First, avoid the distorted shape of skirts. Second, develop underwear for traditional silhouettes. Third, expand traditional colorations and avoid the excessive use of accent colors. Fourth, it is necessary to develop rental Hanbok materials with decorative features. Fifth, there is a need to design flat pattern construction for rental Hanbok that reflects a standardized production method and a changed aesthetics.