• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.607-620
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• 2020

The aim of this study is to define the new expressive techniques for multicolored clamp resist (hyuphill) dyeing, based on empirical verification on relics that are estimated to be dyed by the exchange of more than two wood blocks: a previously undiscovered technique. Clamp resist dyeing (assumed to be made by exchanging wood blocks) have uneven resist printing lines or cloudy gradation. These are reproduced as follows: first, they have uneven contour lines, particularly with the color blue. It is possible to exchange wood blocks separately on patterns with uneven resist printing lines, and it has been verified that the exchange of wood blocks makes these irregular resist printing lines. It has also been verified that exchanging the wood blocks according to the gradation (to emphasize the cubic effect on the patterns) yields clamp resist dyeing with no resist printing lines but with cloudy gradations that have accented borders. This study provides basic information that enables methods of multicolored clamp resist dyeing through wood block exchange to be deduced (something that has not been attempted for a long time). Thus, the revival of the modern Korean dyeing culture based on the conservation and perseverance of the traditional dyeing techniques can be achieved.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.391-398
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• 2007

Ginkgo leaves, which have been known as medical materials, were selected as new natural dyes in this study, in which it was examined whether they have the function of UV-blocker or not. Cotton, linen & Hanji(Korean traditional paper) were dyed with Ginkgo. Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were selected as mordants. UV-blocking rate of dyed samples was measured after dyeing and mordant treatment. The results of this study are as follows. First, most surface color of dyed samples was yellow except that Hanji mordanted with Cu was yellowish red. Second, dyeing repetition had positive correlations with K/S values of cotton ($r=.\;758^{**}$), linen ($r=.\;500^*$) and Hanji ($r=.\;819^{**}$), because K/S values were increased according to dyeing repetition. Third, solar UV-blocking rates had positive correlations with dyeing repetitions (p<0.01), because UV-blocking rates had increased according to dyeing repetition. Fourth, UV-blocking ability of Hanji was highest among samples, as UV-blocking rates of cotton and linen dyed after 3 dyeing repetition were up to 93%, Hanji's values were up to 98%. Therefore, it was proven that Ginkgo extracts used in this experiment as dyestuff have excellent dyeing ability and high UV-blocking ability. It is hoped that this work will lead to further research to confirm the physiological effects when human wear the clothes made from Hanji.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.105-110
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• 2020

In this study, two hats and a laptop bag were developed and produced as cultural products by using Hanji-fabrics dyed with various natural dyeing materials. First of all, for the cultural product development, I selected Hanji-fabric which made with traditional Korean paper with excellent durability and functionality. Secondly, it was dyed blue with indigo, brown with green persimmon juice, red by safflower, yellow by amur cork and purple by gromwell root. Third, two hats and a laptop bag were designed. Fourth, according to the designs, patterns of two hats and a laptop bag were made. And then two hats and a laptop bag were finished by cutting and sewing Hanji-fabrics dyed in various colors.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.23-38
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• 2011

This research is to examine the formative of patterns and characteristics of expression in Danzhai Miao batik of Guizhou China and to reveal the cultural factors and characteristics of artistic expression inherent to it. As the research methodology, theoretical study was done by utilizing the preceding research data, literature data at home and abroad, photo data, and Internet data, and as the empirical research, field trip was made to Guizhou China and investigation and experiment of dyeing techniques, purchase of dyeing craftworks, photography shooting, and interviews were conducted. The results of this research showed that ancient Chinese batik began in Miao in the Jinhan era and the three types of Miao's traditional batik, i.e. Danzhai batik, Huangping batik, Anshun batik. Danzhai Miao batik obtained indigo blue white patterns through traditional production techniques and natural dyeing batik and represented Miao batik of Guizhou. In the expression of Danzhai Miao batik, based on the cultural backgrounds, the formative such as symbolic of patterns, tradition, primitive, reality, abstract, and decorative of dress designs and high dignity of artistry of creative batik patterns be found from the aspect of expressing magnanimous nationality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.908-917
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• 2004

In the previous article, the effect of aluminum compounds on the mordanting of the Caesalpinia sappan L. dyeing was studied. According to the type of the compound, the effect on the dyeing was found to be different even if $Al^{3+}$ ion was present in the molecular structure of the compound. It was postulated that there would be complex effects other than the effects based on the purified Al compounds only, since there are some amount of compounds hard to neglect. In order to reproduce the traditional dyeing practice, rice straw ash solutions were prepared as mordanting agents. The pH values of the solution baths were 4, 5, 6, 9, and 11 in order to investigate the pH effect on the color development by adding appropriate amount of Schizandra chinensis extract solution. The inherent dyeing properties were evaluated by the analysis of color difference, air permeability, the characteristics developed by pre-mordanting, post-mordanting, or simultaneous mordanting methods.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.247-250
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• 2007

This study was performed to investigate the discrimination of Angelica gigas, Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Angelica gigantis root has been used as a Korean traditional medicine for the treatment of woman disease. Natural dyes give us many great benefits, including diversified color, but no pollution. These studies were carried out acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was dyed with Angelica gigas, Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis. The results of experiment showed as follows: In discrimination by dyeing, the colors of Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis were very similar, but that of Angelica gigas was different. There were no differences among colors of materials using non-mordant. But dyeing with iron acetate and copper dichloride were showed dark in Angelica gigas than other angelica species.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.23-27
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• 2019

Korea boasts outstanding cultural heritage accumulated over the 5 thousand-year-long history, but has neglected developing marketable commercial products out of its culture. As a result, despite the fact that Korea had successfully developed internationally well-acknowledged technologies, there isn't any exceptional cultural product that can be marketed globally. Therefore, it is necessary to re-design and commercialize a modern sense using unique materials in traditional culture. Fabrics made by natural dyeing have a low saturation, so they do not need special color harmony, they are natural and comfortable. Therefore, fabrics obtained by natural dyeing are considered to be a very suitable material for cultural product development. In addition, Hanji is a good material that can build a field of art by itself because it has a quality, a profound and elegant feeling. In this study, Hanji-fabric, which is made of excellent Hanji, is used for natural dyeing with. Using the dyed fabrics, the cultural products such as two parasols and a card holder was made and presented.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.79-94
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• 2013

In this study, the teaching-learning materials and the plan using persimmon juice dyeing, which is one of the traditional natural dyeing methods of Korea, were developed for the purpose of inspiring further awareness of our traditional clothing life-culture. A questionnaire was designed to make a survey on the educational effect, and t-test and Kruscal-Wallis test were conducted to test the significant differences between pre- and post-lessons. A correlation analysis between culture awareness and its education awareness was also done. These prototypes were applied to high school Technology Home Economics classes under the theme, 'Making living goods with persimmon juice dyed fabrics'. Examining the changes in students' awareness of traditional images, and changes in their interest and attitude towards learning in those classes led to the following results. First, as a result of applying LT cooperative learning in order for an understanding of the formation of clothing life-culture and the process of persimmon juice dyeing, many original handicrafts with modern sense were created. Second, a comparative analysis between pre- and post-lessons on the change in students' degree of awareness of traditional clothing life-culture and its education showed that students' awareness had risen after the class; the data was collected from three separate sample groups which had been clustered according to their initial degree of awareness, i.e. high, middle, and low, and the group that scored the lowest before the class showed the greatest improvement. Third, feedback surveys on 'Making living goods with persimmon juice dyed fabrics' classes returned with scores greater than 'moderate', thus revealing that the students' concern and interest towards traditional clothing life-culture hae been enhanced through the class experience. Their attitude had also become more positive. Fourth, since learners with more awareness of the traditional clothing life-culture also showed more awareness of the need for an education designed to promote the culture, a positive correlation between the two had been found. As explained above, the teaching-learning materials and the plan that had been developed for this study has caused a deeper understanding of the value and significance of the traditional natural dyeing and clothing life-culture, and has therefore brought about an educational effect that powers idea creation.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.525-531
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• 2018

This paper proposes a bi-component dye, including the unripe fruit of Diospyros kaki THUNB and Ecklonia cava, to substitute for traditional persimmon dyeing because fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffer and natural persimmon is insufficient for dyeing. This study examined the color difference and fabric stiffness depending on the ratio of Ecklonia cava for in a one-bath dye solution with Diospyros kaki THUNB and showed that 6% of Ecklonia cava in the bi-component dye was the optimum for decreasing the fabric stiffness. Based on these results, a bi-component dye constituting of 94% Diospyros kaki THUNB and 6% Ecklonia cava was prepared. The particle size was found to be smaller than both single dyes and it maintained a similar amount of Catechin to Diospyros kaki THUNB dye. Finally, cotton fabric dyed with a bi-component dye was much improved in terms of the fabric hand and the surface color was similar to that of the traditional persimmon-dyed fabric. These results could help to develop the natural persimmon dyeing industry.