• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.35-47
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• 2013

We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached a point of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea's color through natural dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.131-142
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• 2000

The philological consideration of Korean Buddhist Monk's robe and its reviving have been investigated in traditional way. The configuration and colour of Korean Buddhist monk's robes have been properly adapted for an period, territory, and atmospheric phenomena. In case of Korea, introduced Buddhism from China realize modern robe from under the influence of fusion of Chinese ornament culture and Korean traditional ornament culture. As a result of this modern robe has been consisted of a Buddhist monk's robe and a cope. The modem robes has been significantly affected by industrialization, contrary to ancient time taxed robes as public imposts. At present be familiar in mass production we have a preference for the easier way in making and even color forming. In this paper it is focused on dyeing part, which recognized its important in latest time, at first declined according to appearance of chemical dye, evaluated its convenience in use. That is, it is increased natural dye, people begin with recognition of difference of physical properties for dress dyed with chemical pigment and that with natural pigment. In consequence, I have presented that both making colour of gray using traditional method, and three demolished-color prescribed by Buddhist law. Of course, though it become generally know that dyeing of robes occupied significant part of traditional natural dyeing. But in case of religion, it also is important to know symbolical meaning involved in its colour. Most of Buddhism-believers or even Buddhists who actually be dress in robe are without knowing the meaning of colour, or its revealing method. There, I have considered mating three colour of demolished- color included blue, black, and red, and also represented dyeing method of Buddhist monk's robe using both charcoal and ink-spick. From religious font of view, as robes contains involving of blessing, I have an intention of improvement way in dyeing and succession and development of traditional culture through consideration of traditional dyeing method. And I have also intended to restoration the value of robe's colour, disappeared by the time. moreover, I have shown that dyeing with natural pigment is profitable for both environment and sanitary aspect.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2021

Safflower, a natural dye representing red, is the dye that materials and dyeing method are recorded in the literature, including materials and dyeing. Although the safflower is the same, the ash used as a mordant is recorded differently in each literature, which greatly affects the aesthetic perspective in realizing the traditional safflower red. Therefore, the optimal conditions for realizing the traditional safflower red were sought. The experiment was conducted by pH investigation, dyeing and color analysis by dyeing solution water, concentration, and temperature by ash, and the unique color of red was confirmed. As a result of the test, the pH point of time when the uniq ue color was expressed was 11.53 as goosefoot ash (natural bedrock water), which was 1:100 for concentration and 70℃ for temperature, which was easier to extract red pigment than other ash, indicating that it is suitable for safflower dyeing. The analysis of the ash showed that K and Si play an important role in dyeing, especially Si, which is an element that inhibits carthamon. The color of red was similar to that of KS Standard vivid purplish red in the ash of the goosefoot, and the other ash was deep purplish pink. In the light of findings, it was possible to quantify the dyeing method through traditional materials and find the standard color of red color, and it is judged to be a basic data for studying the unique color of natural materials.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.7
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• pp.105-117
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• 2007

The purposes of this study were 1) to classify adult consumers according to their desired clothing benefits on natural-dyed clothes, 2) to identify the differences of life-style among the classified groups, and 3) to determine the interest in Korean traditional culture, interest in dyeing, and demographics among the groups. The survey subjects were 283 adults. The data were analyzed utilizing factor analysis, cluster analysis, $x^2$-test, one-way ANOVA, Duncan test and multiple regression analysis. Based on the 6 dimensions of clothing benefits that were identified by factor analysis, adult consumers were classified into three clusters: eco-friendly oriented group showing the highest scores in environment conservation and comfort in clothing benefits, individuality-oriented group showing the highest scores in individuality and quality, and indifference group showing lower scores in all of the desired clothing benefits. The eco-friendly group showed the highest scores in attitude toward Korean traditional culture, and tended to have the most interest in natural and traditional methods of dyeing. The group members appeared to have passive life-styles, be older and married, and have a higher income than the other groups. The more positive attitude they had in Korean traditional culture, the higher was the purchase intention shown in the eco-friendly group. The individuality-oriented group showed active life-styles. This group tended to be younger than the other group. The more affirmative attitude in Korean traditional culture and the greater interest in the natural dyeing, the higher was the consumers' purchase intention of natural dyeing apparels. The indifference group tended to be younger, unmarried, and have a lower income. This group was not interested in natural dyeing apparels. The study findings demonstrated that consumers with different clothing benefits sought have different buying patterns on natural dyeing apparels. Finally the marketing implications are discussed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.260-269
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• 2012

The aim of this study was to develop higher-value added dyeing materials with the fermentation-dyeing -mordanting system using only the natural ingredients by integrating traditional fermentation techniques with traditional dyeing technique. Nuruk, which is used mainly to ferment traditional foods, was used as a fermenting agent to ferment 5 different types of materials. Acidic burnt alum and alkaline calcium hydroxide were used as natural mordants. The dyeability checked after fermentation showed that both cotton and silk mordanted with Gardenia jasminoides did not show notable changes, and 10 days of fermentation was found to be appropriate. Sophora japonica L. performed better on cotton materials mordanted with slaked lime, and alkaline mordants were found to be more effective than acidic ones. With Rheum coreanum, a fermentation period of more than 24 days ($5^{th}$ fermentation) worked best on cotton material, showing a 5 fold increase in the K/S value after the $5^{th}$ slaked lime fermentation than with no fermentation. Rhus javanica L. was found to increase the color fastness to gentle washing and the fastness to light was found to possess 4 means that natural dyed fabric have the highest level of durability, the grade 1 the lowest level of fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.90-98
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to estimate natural dyeing properties of Korean traditional paper (Hanji). Korean traditional paper, which made from bleached bast fiber pulp of Broussonetia kazinoki was used as base paper. As dyestuffs, hot water extractives of Phellodendron amurense bark, Rosa multiflora leaf and stalk, and Rubia cordifolia root and methanol extractives of Lithospermum erytrorhizon root were used. $Al_2(SO_4)_3$ and $Fe(OH)(CH_3COO)_2$ 0.5% solution were used as mordant. Soybean juice (10%), chitosan (0.1%), and skim milk (2%) solutions were used as auxiliary dyeing agents. Accelerated aging treatments of natural dyed Korean traditional papers were undergone at following conditions: exposure temperature, $80^{\circ}C$ relative humidity, 60%; wavelength, 340 nm; UV irradiance, $0.67W/m^2/nm$ exposure time, 24, 48, and 72 hours. Colors, color difference, and color fastness were examined for estimation of natural dyeing characteristics. The auxiliary dyeing agents treated Korean traditional papers were more superior the dyeing effectiveness about dyestuffs than untreated Korean traditional papers. The dyeing effectiveness of soybean juice treated Korean traditional paper was superior to the others. The color fastness of Korean traditional paper, which was dyed with Rubia cordifolia root extractives, was most inferior to the others.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.286-290
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• 2015

The wood veneers were clearly rainbow-colored with natural dyes. As shown through Korean-style jacket with stripes of multi-colors beyond traditional obang colors (red, blue, yellow, black and white colors), eco-friendly coloring methods representing Korean colors familiar from old times could be used nobly by coloring natural wood veneer being raw material of wood products. In terms of industrialization, the study to manifest korean color, substituting chemical stains such as dye and pigment, would be necessary. In order to realize this purpose, the study about economical dyeing materials and characteristics, that is, mordant, dyeing and drying techniques showing environment-friendly coloring and high coloration level ought to be followed. In addition to this, investigating discoloration transition by fading test for interior and exterior uses would have to be carried out.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.161-166
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• 1995

Safflower is natural red dye largely used for dyeing on protein and cellulose fabric. It contains safflower yellow and carthamin red. Safflower yellow is water-soluble dye, while carthamin red is soluble in alkaline condition. Therefore the former was extracted by cold water. Cartamon obtained by adding acidic solution to carthamin red shows the original hue of safflower. In this study, the condition of extraction with bean stem ash solution and dyeing behavior of carthamon in safflower were examined by using the traditional dyeing method. The relationship between the dye-uptake(K/S) of silk and ramie fabric and the various extractions and dyeing conditions was investigated.

• Journal of Korea Foresty Energy
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.43-48
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• 2003

Black liquor staining for the development of natural color of bleached Hanji caused problems of discoloration and degradation. This study was carried out not only to complement these problems but also to develop natural dyeing method that was similar to the color of unbleached Hanji, through the dyeing of rice straw extractives. The dyeing properties of Hanji were influenced more by dyestuffs extraction method than extraction and dyeing time. Dyeing ability of hot water extractives was superior to cold-water extractives. Without the relation to the time of extraction and dyeing, the color of Hanji dyeing hot water extractives were similar to the control, and the color of Hanji dyed for 45 min with hot water extractives that extracted for 120 min, were almost same as the control. As natural dyestuffs, hot water extractives of rice straw showed that excellent dyeing ability for the development of various natural colors similar to unbleached Hanjis.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.144-154
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• 2011

Polygoum tinctoria dye is the one using the method of reducing dyeing, and so is made by the mechanism different from natural dye in general, and the reproductive dye is more difficult because it varies in accordance with manufacturing method and days being manufactured in case of natural indigo dye that has been used traditionally. In addition, overall analysis is short of color changes in accordance with natural dyeing condition and barely none of the research for cellulose system such as cotton in particular. Accordingly, this study tries to research on the natural dyeing method optimal for color development that is desirable in designing and development of natural dyeing as comparing and contemplating the change of dyeing quality and color in accordance with reduction temperature and time, reductant quantity, dyeing temperature and time, NaOH quantity, and dyeing repetition times in order to expand dyeing methods and use variously polygoum tinctoria by improving traditional dyeing methods as well as to establish exact dyeing method of cotton which is a fabric of cellulose system in order to make such polygoum tinctoria quantificated and reproductive. The optimum conditions in the dyeing procedure are as follows: Reducing temperature is $50^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of the reducing agent is $3g/{\ell}$. Reducing time is 30minutes. Dyeing temperature is $30^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of NaOH is $1g/{\ell}$. Dyeing time is 30minutes.