• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.114-128
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• 2008

The current study aims to classify types of traditional fur Garments in Jeju into Dusik(hat), dress, Jokui(socks) and accessaries, and examine characteristics of them through demonstrative study focusing on collections of museums in Jeju. Dusik is a kind of hat for protection against the cold, and there are badger leather Gamtaes and cow hair Beonggeojis(fur hats). Especially leather gamtae was used to protect against the cold when people hunted roe deers in Mt. Halla. Beonggeoji was producted in the form of felt with fine hair collected coat-shedding of cows and dogs in spring, therefore it was too warm and practical to be damaged from storm or pressure. Fur coat is a general name of dress made of leather without hair. It is a kind of clothes with a hat worn while taking care of horses and cows. Also people wore dog leather topcoats and cow leather topcoats when they hunted in Mt. Halla. As for Jokui, there are leather Beoseon(socks) made of cow leather, leather shoes in the form of straw shoes, and leather Balle embracing the low half of the body warmly. Accessaries include a rectangular cow leather bag for storing an iron piece for making fire. These traditional fur robs in Jeju not only have practicality for protection against the cold, but also symbolized richness by using leathers of badgers, roe deers, etc. that were previous during that times. Also they used partially cut leather for decoration at the edge.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.54-66
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• 2012

This research analyzes the late Joseon's variously developed characteristics of women's underwear and its formative elements, and ultimately aims to apply such characteristics to designing modern outfits. The main purpose of the presented work is to give guidelines on utilizing the fashion legacy in a various way, and inheriting the traditional concept of beauty by developing it into modern fashion designs. The designing and producing of the work is based on the analysis of previous researches, genre paintings, and traditional costumes in museums. Based on this research, the application of traditional underwear design to today's outfits involves the following points. First, the presented work features the formative outlines of traditional underwear as an inspiration for outer garments. Secondly, various traditional textiles are used such as ramie fabrics, damask silk, silk fabrics, fur, etc. for four seasons and they are turned to practical use for modern outfits. Third, colors of choice are white and low saturation colors to create an elegant and serene atmosphere. Finally, traditional sewing techniques are specifically applied to modern fashion designs. Included are: Nubim technique, Gob-sol technique, and the patching method. This work pursues the design of practical use by tying up clothes with straps and knots to prevent them from falling off.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.354-363
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• 2003

In this research, an internet-based fabric information system has been developed. Recently, the numbers of textile industries which have their own homepages to advertise their product fabrics fur apparel through the Internet and textile e-Commerce web sites rapidly increase. Unfortunately, traditional fabric information systems based on direct meeting and trust cannot give sufficient information to numerous visitors of the Internet sites including fabric buyers for apparel. They can just view 3-dimensional fabric images and text-based specifications such as fabric density, composition, colors, weight, etc. To solve these problems, the new fabric information system fur apparel has been developed. The web-based fabric information system is composed of the following six modules; $\circled1$ fabric database management system, $\circled2$ a 3-D fabric drape image viewer to illustrate fabric appearances, $\circled3$ a virtual wearing system to apply a fabric to garment designs, $\circled4$ a fabric property viewer to confirm fabric characteristics, $\circled5$ a QC (quality control) document generator to manufacture high qualify garments with a fabric, and$\circled6$actual display mall to view actual fabrics. The fabric information system is simply performed by visitors clicking the buttons hyper-linked with JAVA applets on web browser. The web-based fabric information system enables the web site visitors to understand fabrics shown on the Internet in more details.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.776-792
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• 2023

This study aims to analyze the traditional attire of four ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China: Daur, Ewenki, Oroqen, and Hezhen, considering their natural environment, lifestyles, and cultural influences. A literature review of academic papers, books, and online resources was conducted, along with indirect investigations through artifacts. The Daur people, being equestrian, have garments with deep slits, vibrant colors, and elaborate decorations. The Ewenki people wear clothes made of fabric in the summer and primarily deer skin in the winter, and their clothing is simple and not flashy. The Oroqen people's clothing typically has slits at the front, back, or on both sides, and they wear a waist belt. The Hezhen people, an ethnic group that primarily hunts and fishes, wear two-piece clothing with a hip-length top and pants or other fur-trimmed garments. All groups incorporate symbolic patterns influenced by Shamanism, along with animal headgear and leather shoes. We observed that the traditional costumes of ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China share many commonalities in form, but there are detailed differences in material, shape, color, and decoration due to unique geographical and climatic characteristics as well as differences in livelihood. Additionally, the structure of clothing varies depending on each tribe's shamanistic practices and lifestyle.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.45-59
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• 1999

The objectives of this study were to identify fashion trend in the late 1990's by using content analysis of the design elements of wedding dresses in wedding magazine photographs. The data were selected among the wedding dress photographs in 1997 issues of two wedding's magazines, 'My wedding'and 'She's Bride'. The identified 455 photographs were classified into 15 major-categories of silhouettes, necklines, sleeves, materials, and trimmings, etc. 15 major-categories were consisted of 232 sub-categories. In the late 1990's, fashion trends of wedding dresses have mixed mainly dome silhouettes(56.0%), bell silhouettes, and tubular silhouettes. One-piece forms(90.8%) were familar more than two-piece forms. Necklines were used mainly such as square neckline(14.0%), high necklines(13.0) blended with other off-shoulder necklines, heart-shape necklines, and sweet-heart necklines, etc. Also camisole and strapless were added in neckline. Long-tight sleeves dominated at the late 1990's because that were used most (21.1%) among 22 sleeves sub-categories. And short sleeve, ruffled below-elbow length sleeves, and french sleeves were also used with the other sleeves. Long length in skirts(98.4%) were common but mini length were used rarely. Satin, lace, and solid cloth were the main materials in wedding dresses, however, spandex and velvet were also used. Various trimmings such as flowers(corsages), ribbons blended with embroidery, small flowers, buttons, frills, strings, and fur trimming are used. Especially, flowers used most(11.8%) among 61 trimmings sub-categories. But simplicity was shown in trimmings because there were dresses not having any decorations(14.3%). The wedding dress of the late 1990's has become more varied in design due to the reflection of changes in society and fashion of everyday garments while the traditional design of the wedding dress has been preserved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.291-306
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• 1992

From the mid-1980s '91s, remarkable Ethnicism and Primitivism in the Europe fashion trend could be represented as an exotic taste longing for secenery and emotion of non-europe area in the West. These phenomenon could be found out in connection with Acculturation, which means when two different cultures or more were contacted they were identified or merged in process of diffusion and change of them. This point of view was the culture anthropologic one that make a comparison and analysis of sameness and difference between cultures. The purpose of this study was to illuminate exotic taste represented in costume in the cluture-anthroplogic aspect, to compare with beauty of costume that each culture of costume and the meaning of the times due to those differences. an aspect of the exotic taste and character in the western costume that was inspected by dividing into 'Primitivism', 'Oriental element' and 'the element of a national costume in the East European bloc ' were as follows; First, Primitivism had something in common with what was pursued in the trend of Modern Art, through the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In fashion fettered by technique, the creation expressed in a free was and showed simple beauty of costume. At the same time, pure emotion expression, creative power and witty strong expression give the cognition of transcendency breaking the routine and the cognition of complexity of an included conception. Those are garments showing not only the primitive thought and mysticism but a fancy, an abstraction, and a life. Colors and accessaries which described nature and matched simple costume composition to the expression of various material or patterns transmitted the image of the primitive strongly. Second, "Drental element" which had an effect on western custome historically in a long time had outstanding luxurios adornmental beauty of custome. Extending from the Arab stated India, China, Korea, Japan, each national costume with a gay national culture became one of motif. Various ornamental factors expressed on Trapez Line, Sime Line and Drape, or Raied style, which did not restrict the body. Those were not only functional Easy Look, but were also satisfying human's ornamental desire. Third, national factors in the East European bloc are theme that begins to be embossed in the late 80's. In view of a political change and cultural situation with a double character of Europe and Orient, it was estimated that national factors have great importance in fashion. Item concerned with new concern appeared at Autumn & Winter collection. It shows elegant and graceful beauty of costume by adding a fur or jewel to simple form. These national factors in the East European bloc are simple form, but shows the difference in more cubic formation than form expressed in Primitivism or Oriental factors Exotic taste appeared form 80's to 91's, is thought to create an forgotten romantic emotion and traditional fashion