• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.161-171
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• 2022

Traditional tie-dyeing is widely implemented in the clothing handicraft culture in China, South Korea, and Japan. Since it was developed 2,000 years ago, it has become a popular method of fabric making in the world and is highly respected by fashion designers. Based on the existing traditional tie-dyeing methods, this study conducted specific research on the 3D printing technology of the SLS laser method and the micro tool design application method of the clamp-dyeing process. Through the experimental methods of this study, it proposes to use the "7000 Nylon" material, which is commonly used in 3D printing, to develop a new clamp-dyeing tool. This new tool can be widely used in the clamp-dyeing of fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, silk, and some chemical fibers. The applied method and principle can be consistent with the traditional clamp-dyeing method. Therefore, the innovation of tie-dyeing technology is the best protection measure for the development and inheritance of traditional fabric making. The continuation of artistic life needs originality, which is also the best response to market competition. At the same time, this new design of the clamp-dyeing tool has the characteristics of novelty, innovation, and rich changes, which aligns with the new fashion demands of current fabric design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.101-110
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• 2009

Danchung(丹靑) is the traditional Korean patterns that are decorated with various colorful patterned paintings upon each sections of wooden architecture. Although Danchung consists of variety patterns with the meaningful signs and symbols, as an accomplishment of Korean traditional images, there is a few fashion merchandise by Danchung patterns. Therefore, the purpose of this study is about to design Jacquard fabrics, and to develop bags of Jacquard fabric by Danchung patterns, as a differentiated cultural Fashion Merchandise. The theoretical background was researched for the geometric image of Danchung patterns on the basis of the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Danchung. The geometric image of Danchung patterns, which had the shape of circle, triangle, square and hexagon, was designed to the surface design by Jacquard CAD system(i.e., EAT Designscope by Germany) and woven into Jacquard fabrics by Stabuli electronic Jacquard system. Danchung patterns for fabric design in this study was mainly focused on 'ChipJaGum', 'SamJiChangGum', 'ShouSulGum', Moro patterns of lotus flower(蓮花), Rok-Wha(綠花) and so on. To development bags of jacquard fabric, those woven jacquard fabrics were manufactured to bags by applying the selected of twelve bag-designs among the current bag styles. These manufactured bags of jacquard fabrics in geometric Danchung patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they can be used for the unique korean cultural products to further commercialization.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.69-78
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to investigate of fabric characteristics in women's wear as reviewing the fabric trends in 1990's domestic fashion. As a method to accomplish this research, I have examined the articles related to fashion fabric and fashion trend magerzines. This study considered women's wear relatively used diverse fabrics, there was not previous study regarding the fabrics used in domestic, since the 1990's. The social fators for the 1990's fashion were the influence of the informed, the increased concern for the ecological environment, the sattlement of young popular culture, the increase of resonable consume and social anxiety. To understand the fashion trends of the 1990's women's wear, it is divided three periods. The traditional period is from 1991 to 1993, the mixed period of the naturalism and the technology is from 1994 to 1995, the retro period is from 1996 to 1999. The charateristics of the fabrics used in 1990's women's wear were the appearance of various functional fabrics, the development of new synthetic fabric with high sensitivity, the popularization of circular knit, the fabrics with a retro mood toward traditional feminine mood and the blending of fabrics. The fashion of 1990 have had the characteristics of various utilization of the materials on the base of reasonable and practical trends than the changes of design and detail.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• Journal of Distribution Science
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• v.10 no.9
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• pp.37-45
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• 2012

Purpose - The objective of the paper is to examine display techniques and tools at traditional clothing stores to improve the traditional market. Since most research has been done theoretical and model based approaches, changing business environments requires more holistic and detailed facts to apply or develop a retail business strategy. Research design / data / methodology - The study employs qualitative research such as direct observation as well as direct interview and telephone interview from May 7 to Jun 2, 2012. The paper examines lighting, various display techniques and tools. The analysis of 80 store pictures for them had been done three examiners with agreement. Results - Sample garments are displayed on the walls; the racks of hangers are attached on the upper part of the walls; there is indirect lighting only. Furthermore, the merchandises are displayed, without any consistency, on various sizes and shapes of hangers, only on the owners' arbitrariness. When considering that the Korean traditional fabrics (Juddan) have a little pattern and colors as their important elements for displaying. Conclusions - The findings of this study show that the retailers in the traditional market need to have lessons on colors and to learn how to use the specific lighting and to display merchandise.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.111-120
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• 2012

Indonesia has a wealth of traditional textiles that are spread in every corner of its region, each of them has its own characteristics and uniquennes. Among the diversity of decorative and techniques used, there are also peculiarities arising from the coloring techniques, that is staining with natural dyes. The existence and the authenticity of the coloring techniques are still retained in some places in Indonesia until today. Generally, these societies make the fabric-making process as part of the ritual beliefs. One of which are the societies in Tenganan, Bali, an area in Bali which always use fabric as an important part in every traditional ceremony. The fabrics is known by the name Geringsing. The typically color which shown and also the sacred values that accompany make Geringsing a very special woven fabric and cannot be found in other areas. This is one of the local geniuses that need to be preserved. In addition to its unique techniques and special materials, Geringsing woven also keeps its myth and its philosophy. The emersion of Geringsing woven closely related to the community trust in God Indra as the main protector deity. The necessary initial process of making Geringsing is holding special ceremony attended by various circles of Tenganan village society. People in Tenganan believe that Geringsing is a precious heritage avoiding all diseases and disorders of evil spirits.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.284-288
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• 2002

In this research, a new quantitative fabric drape evaluation system has been developed using image processing technology. The purpose of this research is to get the more detailed information of fabric drapability quantitatively from digital images captured with a digital camera generally commercialized. The shape parameters of a 3-dimensional geometric drape model were defined as the number of nodes, frequency and amplitude. Also, various statistical information of drape shapes can be obtained using image processing technology and frequency analysis as well as traditional drape coefficients. Hardware system to capture drape images is simply composed of three parts including a digital USB (Universal Serial Bus) camera, a frame cover and a stand for camera to attach to traditional drape tester. The evaluation software coded with the MS Visual C++ is operated under the MS windows 9x above.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.158-167
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• 2013

The cotton fabric armour for lower class soldiers can be found from the historical records of the mid-Joseon Korea. And the records show that the form and the structure of the armour was modified in the late 19th century in order to provide better protection from gunshots for the soldiers in the midst of the invasions from the West. This is a survey and research of the only artifact of the cotton fabric armour remaining in Korea - for its form, dimensions, and design. Using the historical records as reference, we can confirm the structure and characteristics of the cotton fabric armour of the Joseon period. This cotton fabric armour, preserved in National Museum of Korea, is a vest-type armour made of 30 layers of cotton. On the right shoulder, there is a button for tying knots and strings were tied under both armpits. On the surface of the cotton fabric armour there were some characters and patterns stamped in black. Presently, this artifact in Korea is the only specimen relic of its sort, but there are some other related relics in foreign countries including helmets and belts. Continuous researches would help extend the scope of armour study beyond the traditional researches that only focuses on the armours of the officials, thus helping us to understand the military costumes in traditional Korea.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.645-650
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• 2007

Three hundred of women between twenty and over seventy living around Andong, Sangju, Youngju and northern part of Kyungsang Province replied consumer research on industrialization of traditional clothing products in that area. An age distribution of the women is 60 people (20.0%) between 20 and 34 years old, 147 people (49.1%) between 35 and 54 years old, 93 people (27.9%) over 55 years old and the subject of study included in middle-aged and old-aged is 77.0%. A direct questionnaire and enclosed questionnaire are used to measure. The questions consist of questions about current circumstances of traditional clothing production, features of natural fabrics in the northern part of Kyungsang Province, distributive process, features classified by kinds, directions of development and economic conditions of natural fabrics. Andong has a traditionally unique culture throughout Korea. If Andongpo are developed as clothing fabrics harmonized beauty of tradition with modern characteristics, fashion business in the northern part of Kyungsang Province will be improved. In addition, encouraging majority of the young to participate in this movement is regarded as beneficial for the reinforcement of competitiveness against other regions and public relations of the region. As one of the solutions to development of this traditional clothing business, its own program made by industry-academic cooperation for the development of clothing products which is suitable for traditional fabric in Andong should be implemented.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.450-456
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• 2006

The objectives of this study were to investigate physiological and psychological responses to the rustling sound of Korean traditional silk fabrics and to figure out objective measurements such as sound parameters and mechanical properties determining the human responses. Five different traditional silk fabrics were selected by cluster analysis and their sound characteristics were observed in terms of FFT spectra and some calculated sound parameters including level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters - loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z), and sound color factors such as ${\Delta}L\;and\;{\Delta}f$. As physiological signals, the ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF) from the power spectrum of heart rate variability, pulse volume (PV), heart rate (HR), and skin conductance level (SCL) evoked by the fabric sounds were measured from thirty participants. Also, seven aspects of psychological state including softness, loudness, sharpness, roughness, clearness, highness, and pleasantness were evaluated when each sound was presented. The traditional silk fabric sounds were likely to be felt as soft and pleasant rather than clear and high, which seemed to evoke less change of both LF/HF and SCL indicating a negative sensation than other fabrics previously reported. As fluctuation strength(Z) were higher and bending rigidity (B) values lower, the fabrics tended to be perceived as sounding softer, which resulted in increase of PV changes. The higher LPT was concerned with higher rating for subjective loudness so that HR was more increased. Also, compression linearity (LC) affected subjective pleasantness positively, which caused less changes of HR. Therefore, we concluded that such objective measurements as LPT, fluctuation strength(Z), bending rigidity (B), and compression linearity (LC) were significant factors affecting physiological and psychological responses to the sounds of Korean traditional silk fabrics.