• 한국문화재보존과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국문화재보존과학회 2004년도 제20회 발표논문집
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• pp.109-114
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• 2004

The purpose of this study lies in analyzing the characteristics of the carbonized textile fabrics and to know the carbonizing mechanism. Samples were Jiyo excavated from the grave of Mrs. Hansan Lee as the wife of Jinju Kang at Daeduk-gu, Daejon, and black fragements assumed as of the outside material of cotton skirt and black dusts collected out of Jikryung for official dress. The composition and status of the fiber were clarified by means of Microscopic FT-IR and both cross sectioanl and side parts of the fiber were observed using the technique of scanning electron microscopy(SEM). Finally EDS analysis was carried out to qualitatively analyze inorganic ingredients contained in the carbonized fiber. As a result of FT-IR measurement, characteristic peak was very strong around $1625cm^{-1}$ and could be found even between 2500 and $2300cm^{-1}$ because of a high-molecule pigmental substance, melanine. When SEM photography was applied to the fractions, the tissues were identified as silk fiborine through the observation of their side and cross sectional parts. SEM-EDS measurement indicated that both the cotton skirt and Jikryung for official dress contained a high proportion of inorganic substances such as Si, Ca suggesting the existence of silicide and calcium carbonate.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.19-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this research was to investigate the image dimension depending on the coloration of the Korean jacket of cromatic colors and the Korean skirt of acromatic color and to elucidate the image difference depending on the tone variation of the Korean jacket and the Korean skirt. The experimental materials used for this study were sets of stimulus and response scales(7 point semantic). The stimuli manipulated by computer simulation were 48 color pictures with various combinations of colors of jackets and skirts. The subjects were 576 female undergraduates living in Jinju city. This experiment was based on the $3{\times}4{\times}4$ factorial designs: jacket color(red, yellow and green), jacket tone(vivid, light, dull and dark), and skirt tone(N9, N7, N4 and N2). Image factor of the stimuli consisted of 4 different dimensions(youthfulness and activity, gracefulness, visibility and tenderness). Among them, the youthfulness and activity, and the gracefulness were important. According to the tone variation of Korean jacket of cromatic colors and Korean skirt of acromatic color, the images for a wearer were expressed diversely and showed the difference in image dimensions.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the first birthday Hanboks on Internet shopping malls and to find the reason why the costume has various types. From April to May 2012, first birthday costumes were sold on 154 Internet shopping mall sites. On 48 of the shopping malls, traditional Hanboks were sold, on 33 of the shopping malls, fusion Hanboks were sold, and on 73 of the shopping malls, Western formal wear was sold. The percentage of the Hanboks and Western costumes for the first birthday was almost the same. Boys costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Magoja, Joggi, Jeogori, and Baji" or 'Baeja, Jeogori, and Baji" with Jeonbok or Sagyusam. Boys' headgear consisted of Bokgun and Hogun. Girls' costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Chima' or 'Dangui, Chima or Seuranchima'. Girls' headgear was Gulle, Jobawui, and Baessidaenggi. Boys' costumes in the fusion Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Baji, and Wanggunmo' which is different from the traditional Hanbok in materials, colors, and parts of construction. Girls' costumes in the fusion Hanbok could be divided into 3 different types; a modified traditional skirt, Chima, 'Chima and Jeogori" with new materials and colors, and Western dress with traditional materials. The first birthday Hanboks on the Internet shopping malls are simple and convenient compared to the traditional ones. Furthermore, parts of the costumes are influenced by some popular historical dramas. One of the reasons why the costumes have changed is because the customers have few experiences about traditional Korean costumes and their interests have been affected by the modern media.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.19-32
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• 2014

The Taekwondo uniform has remained consistent since it was officially designed in a V-neck form in 1976. Taekwondo is a martial art that emphasizes social etiquette; therefore, it is necessary to dress in a uniform that reflects Korean traditions and ancient oriental philosophy. However, the current official uniform has limitations in endowing traditionality and many usability problems. Thus, recognizing the problems raised with the uniform, the Kukkiwon (World Taekwondo Headquarters) developed a new style official uniform in 2011. This study is to endow traditional meaning to a new style uniform and proposes some design modifications that can convey a more traditional adequacy. The development of the new official uniform began with a specific plan for change from the existing uniform, this study as subsequent work is significant in that its endowment of symbolism and modification proposal is for the actual execution and global dissemination of traditional Taekwondo culture. The results of this study are as follows. First, we can endow Korea's traditional historicity and symbolism to the new uniform in form and colors. All contents of the design (in which the front side is open, the top is adjusted rightward, the rear length is shorter than the front length, comfort provided by side vents, dual collars for children's uniforms, and a belt) are adapted from the Korean traditional costume. Consequently, historicity can be endowed to the uniform. It is also confirmed that the traditional oriental philosophy including heaven and earth (天地), Yin-Yang (陰陽), and Five Elements (五行) can be endowed in the use of colors. Second, in order to project deeper historicity and symbolism to the form of the new uniform, this study proposes design modifications based on the selection as an item of Simui (深衣), a type of traditional clothing that contains a high symbolism similar to the Taekwondo uniform. It proposes giving shape to the practice of manners, the righteous life, and the straightforward mind by modifying the design of the uniform in the fish belly part of the sleeves, collars, back stitches, and side seams.

• 복식
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• 제26권
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• pp.289-310
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• 1995

The present study aims at investigating the style change of the Korean women's traditional costume and analyzing its character in accordance with the social changes during the period from the civilization in 1884 to the present. The design of the tranditional costume which might be formed in the era of the Three Kingdoms had been slowly modified, and the Korean jacket and skirt design was settled in the Chosun period. In the end of the Chosun period, the drastic social changes such as civilization and revolution, together with the introduction of western dresses, affected strongly the traditional costume design. This led to a change from the old dress design to the stylish and practical one because civilized women and high school girls wore the modified costume composed of long jacket and short skirt or western style dresses. In recent years after 1960's Korean women usually wore traditional costumes as ceremonial dresses be-cause the western style dresses replaced the tra-ditional costume in everyday life. After 1970's, however, the A-line silhouette, combined with ornaments, adapted to the traditional costume in order to emphasize women's beauty, thereby resulting in remarkable modification in the tra-ditional costume. In those days, the large pro-duction of various textiles such as nylon and tetron and the appearance of the traditional costume designers played an important role in developing beautiful traditional costume designs and bringing closer together with general public women. These recent design changes might be classified generally by the following three stages ; (1) "the period of settlement" (1965 1975), (2) "the period of maturity" (1976 1985), and (3) "the period of stabilization" (1986 1995). The costume design of each period was discussed and compared in detail according to historical events. From this study, inherent beauty of the Korean traditional costume can be recognized again, and clarified its position as our folkdress. It is also suggested that in future its modification should be achieved continuously in accordance with tra-dition and modern sense.h tra-dition and modern sense.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.127-139
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• 2013

This research is designed to provide basic data to study the life and culture of multicultural families in Korea by taking a look at the clothing behaviors and attitudes toward traditional dresses. To this end, quantitative research was conducted on Korea-Vietnam multicultural families and Korean families. The surveys of the Korean families were completed by 250 married women in Seoul, and those of Korea-Vietnam multicultural families by 104 married Vietnamese women living in Seoul, Gyeonggi-do and Incheon. The data were analyzed using frequency analysis, factor analysis, t-test, crosstabs and ${\chi}^2$-test. The findings are as follows: First, the comparison of clothing behaviors of the Korean families and the Korea-Vietnam multicultural families found that they had statistically significant differences in values towards clothes, clothes shopping orientation and clothes purchasing behaviors. The Korean women were more involved in clothes and fashion-oriented than their Vietnamese counterparts. However, the Vietnamese women in their 20s were likely to rely more on social trends than their own needs when purchasing clothes compared to their Korean counterparts. Korean families preferred to shop in department stores, while the multicultural families relied more on discount stores and outlets. Second, the comparison of the Korean families and the Korea-Vietnam families in attitudes toward their own traditional dresses and how often to wear them showed statistically meaningful differences. The Korean group had more negative attitudes toward Hanbok, the Korean traditional dresses than the Vietnamese group. The Vietnamese women showed more interest in information on Hanbok than their Korean counterparts. They also were wearing the Korean traditional dresses more often than the Korean families. In addition, the Vietnamese women showed a stronger tendency than the Korean women that they took pride in their country's traditional dresses and believed that they were beautiful.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2001

Chunghahk-dong is located in a retired spot, Jiri Mountain and has been built up its won religion and culture without any exchange outside world. People in Chunghahk-dong believe in a religion called Genjungyutaosim. Forming a trinity on which mind is Taoism, body is Buddhism, and behavior is confucianism. These are the principle elements to form a village. They made their own unique cultural factor such as longhaired boys and girls, wearing traditional cloths and hat, a monastic life, folk mores and family rituals, and private school system. This shows a great deal of affection on their life style and organization and is closely connected with community and culture. Grasping a culture and behavior on clothing, it has propose to understand Chunghahk-dong properly according to this study. A method of study has a purpose to understand culture and clothing behavior precisely in Chunghahk-dong. I inquire ito clothing behavior with investigation and study of picture script. The results are as followed; People in Chunghahk-dong show unique clothing and hair style behavior based on Genjungyutao. First, men and women wear a white cloth called HanBok(Korean costume) and footwear made of rubber. Only men wear a blue vest. A grown up men wear a long coat when they go out. They are dressed in tractional cloth for a ceremonial occasion. The reason why they put on the HanBok(Korean costume) is a belief on our traditional cloth becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea become a leading country in the world. This clothing behavior is symbol of Genjungyutao and has a role of delivery system for expressing their split. Second, In sign of being a Genjungyutao men, they let their grow hair. Cutting hair is not to be a Genjungyutao men any more. There is few reason that people in Chunghahk-dong let grow their hair : First, because of importance in TanGun's ideology, they believe Korea is a first nation in the world and can't cut their hair which has grown from TanGun (The founding father of the Koran nation) Chosun traditionally. Second, Cutting their hair runs counter to the principle of nature. Third, They value their body for confucianism. They don't want to damage their body because of body from their parents. Boys and girls braid and tie up their hair and adult tie a topknot and a chignon. Wearing a YouGun(A horsehair skullcap) at home and Kat(A Korean top hat) when going out, they express as a Genjungyutao. Hemp cloth and synthetic fibers are main clothes. Also, they wear an improved HanBok(Korean costume) these days on influence outside.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.825-836
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to analyze the harmony of contrast coloration of the traditional Korean dress as the subject of the study for women's college students in Korea and America. The sense of harmonious coloration for 64 colorations was evaluated based on a yellow and a green Korean jackets, to be contrast colorization, by combining four different tones, vivid, light, dull, and dark tones in a purple and a blue skirt with a yellow jacket, a red and a purple skirt with a green jacket. We tried to make sure of the cultural difference by the distinction in the perception of women's college students. in Korea and America. The result of the study is as follows. In the contrast coloration of a yellow jacket with a purple and a blue skirt, Korean women students, generally, perceived that the coloration that skirt is more dark than jacket, dull and dark tone is harmonious. On the other hand, American women students perceived harmonious skirt tone is various depending on the jacket tones. In the coloration of a green jacket and a red skirt, the women students of two countries are in common that the coloration of a vivid skirt with a vivid, a dull, and a dark jacket are harmonious. However, Korean women students indicated that a light jacket with a dark tone skirt as a harmonious coloration. American women students evaluated that various tones of coloration as a harmonious coloration. In the coloration of a green jacket and a purple skirt, Korean women students perceived that the coloration is incompatible coloration. American women students perceived the coloration is congruous in the coloration of a dull and a dark tone jacket and skirt. In the response of the perception for 64 contrast coloration, Korean students evaluated 14 sets and American students judged 28 sets as harmonized colors. Therefore, it drew the conclusion that Korean students had the sense of harmonious coloration of more narrow range than American students. There was a difference between two cultures in the standard far contrast coloration.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.151-165
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• 2020

In this study, the pattern of texture was developed by applying the pattern shown in the Amita Yeoraebul and the Avalokitesvara with symbolism suitable for children's clothing. In addition, the design and the manufacturing of a children's wearable Hanbok were attempted, and the results are as follows: Amitha Yeoraebul is a Buddha who oversees paradise in Buddhism, and Avalokitesvara controls both paradise and the real world and provides mercy. Applying the various patterns in the Buddhist paintings, four daily hanboks for children were produced using patterns featuring symbolic the meanings of large round original patterns chrysanthemums, turtles, and lotus patterns. The lotus symbol represents love, nobility, and wealth, while the turtle symbol represents longevity, the chrysanthemum pattern symbolizes auspiciousness, and the large round original pattern means a constant continuation. To maintain the traditional hanbok form but allow convenient wear it in daily life, it is made in the jeogori + shorts, vest + long pants, and one-piece + jacket style. Currently, the daily dress of Hanbok and the modernization of traditional Korean clothes are being promoted. At this point, the study developed Hanbok fashion products that contain symbolic stories suitable for children are trying to maintain the image of traditional culture as much as possible.