• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.153-168
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine, specifically, the external and internal characteristics of anti-fashion expression in the Korean student movement after the 1945 Liberation. The dress expressed in the student movement represented the purity of student and characterized resistance, and this character expressed strongly in 80s, faded from middle of 90s. Until the 60s, the student movement was not characterized by, so activist students wore dress and suits. It symbolized students as an elite group of society. They added on head-bands to express resistance. In the 70s, activist students wore school uniforms, school military training wear, blue jeans and loose shirts in demonstrations. They tried to express re-bellion against the government and the older gen-eration. In the 80s, the period was remarkably distingusihing by the economic growth at that time. Activist students wore T-shirts with Korean letters and popular paintings specially made, Korean costumes, wrapped in the Taggeuki (Korean national flag), and refused wear on jeans because of anti-Americanism. They also wore masks, muffled their faces, and got their heads shaved. These anti-fashions are very strong expressions for the national independence spirit, national traditional heitage, anti-foreign power and anti-American. In the early 90s, activist students wore reformed Korean costumes specially made group uniforms, after that they wore casual everyday clothes with caps. They tried to express remarkable resistance in the early 90s, but after the mid-90s expression of resistance weakened and faded, so there was no distinction between activist and non-activist. There are the reasons why the student movement changed after the peaceful transfer of political power.

• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.281-292
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• 1997

Tatan is a symbol of kinship and belonging in Scotland and a badge of identity recognized all over the world. Alongside the powerful historical and national resonance to Tartan for Scots it has been borrowed repeatedly by fashion. The pattern compositionof Tartan check is formed as a typical cross stripes that vertical line and hrizontal line meets rectangulary. And its color is much various and rich than other check pattern. So its magnificient spec-tacle that various all kinds of colors is dyed in cloth is second to name. Today we are as likely to meet tartan in a couturier dress as in a kilt or plaid. Tartan is distinctive in colour style and de-sign. It conveys personality ceremony and drama. All these aspects of its character have contributed to tartan being one of the best-known and best-loved fabrics in the world. In other parts of Europe traditional checked patterns declined and disappeared but in Scotland tartan survived strongly jist as the bagpipes also European flourished Due to geographical and cultural circumstances Scots were able to develop and enhance tartan and its remarkable individuality ensured its sur-vival in spite of adverse political and economic pressures. Tartan has been adopted as the national dress of all Scots. Lowland and High-land providing a powerful form of national cultural and personal identity. Whether tra-ditional or a recent creation whether tra-ditional or a recent creation whether a symbol of nationality or a substitute for nationhood tartan is no mean achievement.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제3권
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• pp.89-105
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to classify sleeves that play an important role in upper-garment designs and that can be presented in diverse shapes by meaningful era. Also, characteristics and trends of sleeves are analyzed to provide a basis for development of design on modem woman's dress. To examine formation and construction of sleeves, literature review and empirical examination were conducted, focusing on patterns of woman's dress presented in literature. This study is to concentrate on the period, the Renaissance to the 19C. In this study, characteristics of sleeves are analyzed by each era according to its shapes and construction. By analyzing the shape of sleeves and the characteristics of the construction of sleeves, the following conclusions had been reached. 1) Sleeves evolved from single, draped garments into dimensional shapes which were manipulated to reflect the changing trends. Considering the comfort and ease of movement have always been very important in clothing design and the construction of sleeves throughout the ages has consistently been able to provide the comfort that wearer demanded. 2) Shape of sleeves varies a little in each period, but recurring trends in fashion led to similar design in sleeves being repeated. Also, instead of a dramatic change in the construction of sleeves, each period had its own unique technique to add freshness by using a variety of ornamentation.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.597-609
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• 2006

The purpose of the research was to compare the preference of coloration of traditional Korean dress according to tone variation of green jacket by Korean and American women college students. The results of research can be summarized as follows. Korean students preferred skirt of vivid red color and light green jacket, but American students did not like it. Korean students did not like the skirt and jacket of same color, but American students preferred it. Both Korean and American students preferred skirt and jacket of different tone. Korean students liked skirt of dull blue and jacket of light dull green, skirt of dark blue and jacket of vivid, dull green. American students liked skirt of vivid violet and jacket of vivid dull, dark green. They also liked skirt of light yellow and jacket of light green, light skirt of blue, violet and jacket of light, dull, dark green, skirt of dark blue and vivid, light, dull gueen, skirt of dark violet and jacket of dull, dark green.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.283-292
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• 2002

This study is to examine the costume and features in Asuka period and the results are as follows. Asuka period is the time that the country loader positively imported the continental civilization, founded a new country organization in political society and accepted Buddhism and exerted his best passion for its thriving. As the result of examining the costume and features of Asuka period when the requirement for accepting the foreign culture was met via the present costume regulation and relics material, it was found that the costume had a considerable difference between of the ruling classes with government official and noble as the center and the common people. As for the costume of the ruling-classed official and noble, Korean and Chinese costume regulation was introduced, court dress, ceremonial dress, and uniform were dressed. The composition of costume with introduction of new clothes including Wio, Baedang, Seup, Pil, Kyongsang, for the ruling classes was diversified as well. As the result of looking the clothes for the present ruling classes via the existing and the contemporary relics, it was found that the clothes consisted of Eui and Gon or Eui and Sang style in principle and Po with Banryung or Sooryung was worn over what. However, for the common people, mainly man wore Eui and Gon and woman Eui and Sang, which was the traditional costume style in the ancient tomb days.

• 복식
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• 제19권
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• pp.195-207
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• 1992

palestein had been a part of Islamic culture before Israel was established after World War II and their daily lives had been totally affected by the Korean, Consequently, the idea of clothing, types of women clothes and it's characteristics reflected in the Koran have been studied and the results are as follows: First, the idea of clothing reflected in the Koran emphasizes the equality of the sexed and treats women as men's equal partner. Second, in the Koran there is almost no reference on men's clothes, but it only recommends women to wear veil to cover their faces and bodies when they go out. The Koran argues that it is not to restrict women but to protect them. Third, due to it's geographical location, Palestinian clothes had been affected by it's neighboring areas, and the gumbaz-a kind of coat - is one of the examples of Turkish origin. In the beginning the gumbaz had been worn by upper class Palestinian women and subsquently by urban Nazareth women. They used to slip on gumbaz on their heads and shoulders. Fourth, In Palestein they wore jacket over coat or dress. The emboridered jacket from Bethlehem was mostly worn their wedding dress. Fifth, the headdress and face-veil in Palestein are the most unique ones and married women decorated headdress and face-veil with gold or silver coins which they received as wedding presents, and wrapped all their coin decorations in black cloth when husbands are dead. Bedouins decorated not only with coins but also with shells, buttons, stones and beads to articulate their chastity, social status, aestheticism, religion and magic.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2009

This study is intended to examine the modernization of Chinese costumes through historical events, and to analyze the characteristics of the costume modernization process. The modernization of Chinese costumes appears to have begun with the Opium Wars, and the Nanjing Treaty(1842), the Beijing Treaty(1860) and the official residence of western people in Chinese territory. Afterwards, in order to initiate change, the Chinese people themselves implemented the Westernization movement(1861-94), placing an emphasis on the westernization of external elements such as technology and form, but aspects such as costume, deeply saturated in their traditions, do not appear to have changed significantly. Despite self-empowering movements such as these, as western forces diffused deeper into the Chinese mainland, neo-intellectuals formed the axis of a revolutionary movement. A major example can be found in the Xinhai Revolution(1911) revolution, which forbade the binding of feet and shaving of frontal hair and partially implemented western formal dress. Through these factors, the modernization process of Chinese costume demonstrates characteristics of an adherence to traditional dress and partial acceptance of western attire. Through this, we may understand the modern costumes of China, which adhered more to tradition than Japan, which pursued western costumes actively within a similar period, and Korea, which rushed modernization due to Japanese authority.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.161-175
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• 2014

This paper investigates the differences between characteristics of street fashions due to regional and cultural differences in southern and northern region of China. Beijing and Shenzhen were chosen as representative cities for the two areas. Empirical research and literature study were performed for this study. Empirical studies were performed by using a total of 708 images of dresses, which were collected through direct imaging. Through discussion with experts, the collected data were classified into five categories; Modern trendy, Romantic, Easy casual, Ethnic, and Classical/Traditional. The data was analyzed by using cross tabulation and frequency analysis. Content analysis for each category was also conducted. As a consequence of this study, a significant difference between Beijing and Shenzhen were observed. As a city, which puts emphasis on practicality and modernity, Beijing showed a higher frequency of modern and trendy style than the other city. On the other hand, Shenzhen showed a higher frequency of romantic style and was distinguished as a city of femininity and decorative preference of fashion style. This study intends to contribute to the academic community of Chinese fashion and to help Korean clothing companies to be launched in Chinese market in the future.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.144-161
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• 2013

Seok, shoes worn for rituals that originated in China, is worn as part of a formal dress in Korea. The Seok for men were worn with Myeonbok(冕服: kingly ceremonial costume) and Wonyugwanbok(遠遊冠服) and the Seok for Jeokui(翟衣: queenly ceremonial costume) and Jangsam(長衫). Myeonbok, Wonyugwanbok, Jeokui and Jangsam were ceremonial costumes of ancient times. This paper examines Seok, which has never been the focal point of a study, and focuses on the period of Joseon(1392~1897). It was possible to concretely identify its changes in each of the periods and genders by means of the literature and picture data. It turns out from this paper that a unique Korean style emerged in the days of Kings Yeongjo(英祖: 1694~1776) and Sunjo(純祖: 1790~1834). The Seok that were imported from China after the Goryeo period included a neck part, which was a departure from its original form. However, during this period, fences were added on the top of the shoes, and rings were added to thread laces in Seok from China. Women wore their Seok in this period with different ornaments in accordance with the different situations.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권9호
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• pp.916-927
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• 2012

In the $21^{st}$ century, woman leaders are able to influence society through improved social status and economic power. From 1980-1990 there was a rapid global social development of feminism and improved media perceptions. The progression of this process is reflected by female characters in feminism films that included a new dress style. The power suit emerged in the U.S.A of the 1980s, as a dress code that showed the workplace uniform of a professional woman and spread to Korea as an influential style. This study defines the different and similar aspects in the development of women's position and the role involved in a structural background through a comparison of the socio-cultural meaning of the power suit expressed in American and Korean feminism films. For analysis, this study chose American films in the 1980s and Korean films in 1990s that fulfilled elements about feminism films. Subsequently in American feminism films, the power suit expressed an equal authority with men, strategic use of femininity according to task type, and a dissipation of symbolic effects like a rich look. In Korean feminism films, the power suit expressed an end of femininity like female transvestite, independent female images with the masculinization of appearance, and a mix of new and traditional styles.