• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.65-87
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• 1982

1. Purpose: The purpose is to apply and adapt ancient textile pattern to practical life, and to contribute to the promotion of the creative development of modernization and Koreanization of textile pattern by the survey of the extent of taste for the textile pattern existent in Korean costume among costumes. 2. Hypothesis: Textile pattern is in most classical one expressed in fact, but nowadays abstract or geometric one is more exist. Consumers are in most part in forties, and so the taste cannot be ignored. Therefore aesthetic consciousness found Korean costume is more important rather than excessively bold or mordern one. 3. Method and Process: (1) This research is analysed 386 one through college student and parents of a primary or high school. (2) Taste of the pattern is comparisoned and analyzed as age. education, pocket money of the student or an income of a month in home through computer. And the analysis of the statistics research is operation through the Chi-Square Goodness of-Fit-Test. 4. Conclusion: (1) The Korean costume put on mostly party or formal dress, therefore it should be researched as an outdoor dress with traditional costume. (2) The most one is concerned in textile pattern, it's taste is different from color, constitution. Textile industry is developed not only weave pattern, gold-coverning pattern but embroidry pattern, dye pattern, therefore the various side of pattern design should be researched. (3) In Side of form, plant pattern is not only most various but highest in popularity. According to approach nowadays, all of the pattern becomes composition or geometric one with abstract tendency and so from these day pattern is necessary combinationed, researched with our people emotion. (4) The color of textile pattern is choiced individual taste. Through investige, research in various side of the modern taste and our costume, we take growing interest in the color, composition of textile, and should dressed with beauty and grace. (5) In side of size, textile pattern is choiced to individual face and body shape through research on form, color, size of these pattern, we should endeavor to dress well. (6) In side of application, most people is concerned in not only interior ornament but the costume is high. Costume research by some people of the outside and symbol with interior through the pattern analysis is not only very important but also is due to people culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.55-66
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• 2004

The objectives of this study were to examine how image evaluation and preference of women's clothing color vary according to perceiver's culture, gender, and clothing color; to investigate the differences of image evaluation according to body type and the clothing color; and to disclose what image affects to the clothing color preference of Korean and American. Subjects were 388 Korean and 363 American college men and women. The American evaluated the wearer more elegant, feminine, and neater than the Korean did. Clothing color gave significant influence on perception of all image variables. Koreans showed that red and blue color shirts were perceived to be individualistic. Koreans considered blue, indigo, purple, gray, and black were perceived to be less feminine. This means that they evaluated the colors of blue range and low chroma were masculine according to their traditional attitude. Women were more attracted by indigo and purple, while men tended to evaluate yellow as an appealing color. The evaluation of sociability varied depending on the perceiver's culture and clothing colors. The corpulent body type had negative evaluation rather than the ordinary one without the relation with the color of clothing for Koreans and Americans. The evaluation of sociability of Americans had an interaction effect by the body type and clothing color. Attractiveness gave the first significant influences on clothing color preference, and the next came individual(-) and splendid image for Korean men. The individual image gave Korean men to be negative effect. Attractiveness, elegance, and sociable image gave significant influences on clothing color preference in Korean women. For American men, elegance gave the first significant influences on clothing color preference, and the next came sociability and neatness, while elegance was the first and the next came sociability and attractiveness for American women.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.551-560
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• 2014

In this study, we have focused on various types of costumes for traditional Ganggangsullae and daily dance Ganggangsullae. To analyze their costumes, spot photographs of Ganggangsullae contests from 2011 and 2013 were collected from the Department of Culture and Tourism, Jindo County Office and the Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Costumes were analyzed by categorising them as type, shape and color. Traditional Ganggangsullae costumes are two types: traditional hanbok and saenghwal hanbok. Traditional hanbok design dates back to the late Joseon dynasty and saenghwal hanbok design to the middle Joseon Dynasty. They reflects confucianism, a male-dominated society, totemism, shamanism and Yin-Yang and the five elements theory in agrarian society and community life. Daily dance Ganggangsullae has various types of costumes such as the fusion hanbok, saenghwal hanbok, cheering uniform and casual wear. They show modern color schemes. There is not any magical meaning from Yin-Yang and the five elements theory. Instead, they have individualism, liberty, equality and welfare in information-oriented society. So its costumes are easy and comfortable clothes. But traditional hanbok, fusion hanbok and saenghwal hanbok are inspired from Korean identiry. Even though traditional Ganggangsullae and daily dance Ganggangsullae have different costumes and ideology, they have a common denominator 'playfulness.' It will function as a key for Ganggangsullae to be performed continuously over the period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.91-109
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• 1997

This study was conducted to find a more rational way of inheriting and developing tra-ditional Korean HanBok children wear by means of looking at the color and shapes of traditional Korean HanBok and also to find a way to apply this to today's children HanBok wear. The process taken was first to study re-lated literature and its theories and to research museums to find what few traditional HanBok there are and then to compare these findings with new books and personal pieces kept by individuals. We also compared with HanBok children wear now sold at markets. The results of these findings show the fol-lowing conclusions and recommendations: We have found that modern children HanBok utilized the same yellow blouse and red skirt combination as before. These nearly in all cases represented the colors for girls. To most koreans these combination colors are a representation of traditional children wear nat-urally accepted by most koreans without any resistance. Also a definite relation with tra-ditional and modern children wear in the sense of color and shape wear hard to substantiate but we could find harmony between the two. In other words a mixture of modern shapes and traditional colors could be found or vice versa. This is an important factor to be con-sidered when trying to inherit traditional hanBok cuture. Modern times has seen great change in lifestyle feelings and social environ-ment,. In order to create harmony between tra-dition and present day customs a certain mix-ture is required. Therefore we need to maximize traditional flavor and design with present day design emotions. Another issue is that right now children hanBok is only being utilized on a restricted scale. It is a shame that in today's children HanBok that added to the skirt pants and overall wear that the head wear purse and other accessories are not being used. There-fore the HanBok culture especially for the correct succession of children hanBok must refrain from such restricted use of accessories and work to advertise the widespread use of proper Hanbok wear thereby upholding the rightful use of HanBok. As I have mentioned in my other studies it is ones momory of early HanBok wear which greatly affects a grown-up so we should wear hanBok in the right way from an early age and become accustome to its shapes and colors thereby become friendly with traditional HanBok wear. This I believe will lead to overcoming prejudice and disapproval of hanBok and to a more affirm-ative view towards our cultural heritage, Looking from a design point of view inter-national design of a nation's traditional wear can only come from a correct understanding of ones traditions this then becoming a foun-dation for creative design. Seen from these aspects a re-cretion through the meaningful activities of studying traditional shapes and colors of hanBok is the beat way to forming a true HanBok tradition.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.404-415
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• 2003

The main purpose of this exploratory research was to examine the characteristics of consumers who patronize natural-dyed clothes and their perceptions regarding natural-dyed clothes. Thirty three participants who have worn natural-dyed clothes were interviewed for the study. They were asked about the styles and price of natural-dyed clothes they owned, their evaluation on them, and the lifestyles of themselves. Existence of subculture among the interviewes and its characteristics were also probed. The results indicated that natural-dyed clothes are relatively high-priced, mostly of modified hanbok style, and became popular in recent years. Interviewees frequently mentioned uniqueness and comfort as the main benefits of natural-dyed clothes, and expressed dissatisfaction regarding color fastness, easy care and problem of coordination. The consumers of natural-dyed clothes appeared to have strong preferences for environment conservation and Korean traditional culture. They also seemed to form a subcultural group who have commonality in their involvement in Korean cultural activities, mainly tea ceremony.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.695-708
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• 2012

This study researched consumers' awareness regarding the commercialization of Korean traditional culture through various channels or products. A survey was administered to consumers in the Gyeonggi region(n=322) from June to August 2012. Differences in the importance placed on, and preferences for, attributes of Korean traditional fashion textile and Korean traditional patterns were analyzed according to consumer characteristics. Research results showed that the factors allowing recognition of Korean traditional textile in clothing and fashion accessories were color, pattern, and textile type, in the respective order. Overall, consumers generally perceived higher importance in using the factors of Korean traditional textile in clothing than in fashion accessories. Preferences for Korean traditional patterns differed according to the type of fashion item, i.e., clothing or fashion accessories, and also according to the age and gender of the consumer. Women generally showed a tendency to place higher value on Korean traditional patterns than men. The degree of preference was higher, as well. However, only a minor difference was seen according to pattern type. Women showed a higher preference for plant patterns, literal patterns, and geometric patterns compared with men. The preferred type of traditional pattern was also different according to age. Consumers in their 20s and 40s presented a higher preference for Korean traditional colors when compared with the 30s group. On the other hand, the preference for Korean traditional patterns was higher among consumers in their 40s than those in their 20s or 30s. The results of this study show that the awareness of consumers regarding Korean traditional textile reflected in clothing and fashion accessories differs according to gender or age. Thus, this implies the need to consider the differences in perceived importance and preferences among target consumer groups to develop various fashion products that use Korean traditional fashion textile.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.78-90
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• 2014

This paper examines the way that the principles of coloration for Hoecha(繪次) and Sucha(繡次) were applied for shoe making in ancient China and Korea. Hoecha is the principle of drawing, and Sucha is the principle of embroidery. Hoecha and Sucha is the application principle of the five colors(五方色) from the five elements(五行: metal, wood, water, fire, and earth). Hoecha matchs a color with the opposite side color, and Sucha matchs a color with the beside color. A shoe consists of Sinul(body of shoe) and ornaments attached to it. According to the ratings of shoes, Hoecha and Sucha were differently applied for coloration of Sinul and its ornaments. In general, shoes were classified into Seok and Gu. For Seok, which was the high-ranked shoes, Hoecha was applied, while Sucha was applied to Gu, the low ranked shoe. As Hoecha was originally a principle of coloration for patterns on tops(jacket. 上衣), it was applied to the high ranked shoes i.e., Seok. Also, as Sucha was a principle of coloration for patterns on bottoms(skirt. 下裳), it was applied to the low ranked shoes i.e., Gu. Thus, black was decorated on red Seok, blue on white Seok, red on black Seok, yellow on hyeon(玄: a kind of black color) Seok, and white on blue Seok, all of which were applications of the principle of Hoecha. As the application of the principle of Hoecha to Seok was also done for red Seok for males and females in late Joseon, and red Seok for the crown prince in the period of the Korean Empire, black decorations were used for red Sinul. However, for blue Seok, worn by females in the period of the Korean Empire where Ming's systems prevailed, black decorations were used, which was an application of Sucha. Though there had been no discrimination between genders in the application of Hoecha and Sucha originally, the low ranked principle of coloration was applied to Seok for females.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.889-897
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• 2012

This study suggests a direction for stage-costume design by making stage costumes based on amusement, eclecticism, and the masquerade, which are the criteria for approaching stage costume designs according to characteristics of the mask theatre presented by P. G. Bogatyryov. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, criteria to approach stage costume design for mask theatre can be classified into amusement, eclecticism, and masquerade according to the characteristics of the mask theatre presented by P. G. Bogatyryov. Second, the stage costume of a mongrel dog showed amusement through the expression of the image of therianthropy through the combination of a fur-lined vest and wristlet, Korean traditional trousers with the paw-prints of a dog. Third, eclecticism contains diverse characteristics and escapes from being singularly defined due to the fusion of severally different heterogeneous objects. The stage costume differently used a method of wearing clothing in a different period, of choosing clothing materials, and of expressing color in every character to indicate ambiguity to which the drama points through the integration of various expression elements. Fourth, the masquerade present characters (Taembang, Daejang, and Changseok)who simultaneously play the role of fairies after having changed into a white mask and having worn Korean a traditional overcoat (Durumagi) on the original clothes; the, result is the change of the theatrical structure into another time and space inside the theatrical scene of imagination through a concealment of the original clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.251-264
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to introduce and research the traditional Korean costume collections of Dr. McCune who was born in Pyung-Yang in 1907 and resided until her marriage to George S. McCune in about 1930. Her collections consist of three categories : children's costumes, adults' costumes, access-ories. The characteristics of collections are summorized as follows : 1. Deep wrappings are found at the front part of the top clothing when worn. The front gusset (SUB) has been dramaticaly tilted due to the difference in lengths of the top and bottom parts of the front gusset. 2. Assymetry was one of the principles of decorating Korean costumes. The assymetry were repeated at the GIT and SUB of CHOGORE with patchwork patterns. 3. Primary colors were favored in Korean costume. Hue contrast in color combinations was prefered as well, such as : yellow CHOGORE and purple blue CUFFS, a red SUN pattern matched with green embroidery. 4. Surface patterns were not so popular in Korean costumes, while the most colorful and fabulous patterns were shown through the various embroidery artifacts. Patterns were used as a way of expressing of their desires or longings in Korean costumes. The main themes of the patterns were longevity and happiness. The patterns such as peony, lotus, chrysanthemum, bamboo and bat were implying symbolism at that time. 5. Natural materials were prefered for the garments, Silk and cotton were used as the main materials of the costume collections. Studies of Korean Costume collections owned by international collectors are meaningful to boost the arena of Korean Costumes as well as fill up the vacancy left by lost costume artifacts.