• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.38-51
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• 2003

Peking Opera, one of a representative Chinese dramas, is a synthesis of drama and stage art. Peking Opera's stage costume was set up in Qing dynasty though its style was embellished with mainly Ming dynasty's clothing style. The special patterns in the clothing were very important because they classified social rankings. There are two kinds of roles in Peking Opera. Sheng stands for male roles and Dan stands for female roles though Dan had traditionally been acted by male actors with female attire until the ruling of the People's Republic of China. There are five different kinds Peking Opera's stage costume. First, Mang is a formal dress for kings and generals. It is a very delicate long Po with special patterns. It has several names depending on the color and shape of a dragon. Second, Pee is a casual attire for kings, government officials, and their families. It is also a long Po with front opening and symmetrical neckline. Third, Kao is an armor of warrior which is made not for protection in a real war but for ornament of a formal dress. Kao reflects the wearer's authority when the wearer stays still, but it is a comfortable clothing for big dancing moves once the wearer starts dancing. The wearer puts a banner into the shoulder to alarm tension of a war. Fourth, Cheup is an outfit that one wears the left part adjust to the top. There are different lengths of Cheup and it has a straight neckline. There are twenty-one different kinds of Cheup according to its shape and color. Last, Yi is name for the rest of Peking Opera's stage costume other than Mang, Pee, Kao, and Cheup.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.51-66
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of the traditional color sentiment on the contemporary clothing color by studying the pictures of street fashion of Dalian in China, in view of the clothing color of women in their 20-30 years of age having highest purchasing power, along with traditional Chinese color. The clothing color is various in frequency depending on the items in street fashion. Due to the seasonal impact of summer, the most frequent item was one-piece dress with the Multi of various color patterns, followed by White, Black, PB, R and B category. In the top color, the White was most prevalent color due to the seasonal factor, followed by Black, Grey, Multi, R, Y, RP category. Achromatic color is more dominant with the ratio of 7:3, comparing with its counterpart, which consists of R and Y category of V, B, P, VP tone. In the bottom color, Dp tone of PB shows most high frequency, followed by Black. This results illustrate that Chinese women prefer blue jeans and to be looked as slimmer by using of the dark colors. In the accessories, colors of bags and shoes show different results. The bag colors show the high frequency of Dk tone, YR category, and the chromatic colors are little bit dominant than achromatic ones with the ratio of 5.3:4.7. On the contrary, the shoes colors show the highest frequency in Black, the achromatic colors are more dominant than chromatic ones with the ratio of 6.6:3.4. These results somewhat diverge from the international color trend. Color trend in Dalian street fashion in which the high frequency of V tone is observed through all the colors of the items followed by P, VP, Lgr tone in sequence. In the light of Chinese traditional color preference, this result denotes that the traditional color preferences of red, yellow are still affecting the contemporary color choices of clothing in Chinese women. The high incidence of PB category in the bottom and one-piece dress does not seem to have its origin form traditional Chinese color sentiment.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.123-139
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• 2003

This study examines the characteristics of 45 sects of seven new aboriginal religious groups in Korea including Jeungsan sect, Tangun sect, Soowoon sect, Won Buddhism, Bongnam sect, Gahksedo sect, Shamanism sect through field study and various documents. The purpose of the study is to elucidate how their religious ideas are reflected in their ceremonial costumes and what characteritics and underlying meanings these costumes have, and I reached the following conclusions 1. The new religious groups in Korea modified or mixed the designs or names of existing outfits to convey their ideas or beliefs in their costumes. 2. The costumes of new religious groups turned out to have certain characteristics in common: they all reflected the times, Korean tradition, ancestor worship. 3. I looked at the symbolicity, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme to establish their structural characteristics, and it turned out that they an symbolized the creeds and ideas of each religion. The names of the costumes such as Way-Robe, Law-Robe, and Ceremony-Robe, for instance, had to do with Buddhism Taoism, and Confucianism. The most common type of costume consisted of traditional hanbok top, pant, robe, and some type of headpiece for men, and hanbok top and, skirt for women, and if women were to wear a robe, it usually meant the sect believed in sexual equality. There was also a tendency to simplify or minimize the dress code, which seems to indicate that the sect was trying to adapt itself to, the times. The most common type of the outer garment for men was a robe with narrow sleeves, straight lapel, and no slits, and a robe with wide sleeves, straight lapel, and slits for women. The color scheme of the costumes included blue, white, yellow, red, and black, reflecting the influence of the Yin-Yang and Five Elements idea and traditional preference for white of Koreans. 4. These religious costumes were worn at various ceremonies, ritual, and various anniversary services for the master and other dignitaries of the sect to render greater piety to those gatherings, to distinguish the sect from other religious groups, to clarify the meaning of the ceremony, and to heighten the devout feelings of the participants. Thus, the structure (the symbolicity, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme) and religious background of the costumes of the new aboriginal religious groups in Korea turned out to have inherited and mixed various element of traditional Korean outfit and those of existing religions to symbolize their religious ideas. Many religions in and fall, and each has its own dress codes, and I hope this study provides a framework and data for other researchers and leaders of new religious groups that will emerge in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제19권
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• pp.209-240
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• 1992

The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2001

Chunghahk-dong is located in a retired spot, Jiri Mountain and has been built up its won religion and culture without any exchange outside world. People in Chunghahk-dong believe in a religion called Genjungyutaosim. Forming a trinity on which mind is Taoism, body is Buddhism, and behavior is confucianism. These are the principle elements to form a village. They made their own unique cultural factor such as longhaired boys and girls, wearing traditional cloths and hat, a monastic life, folk mores and family rituals, and private school system. This shows a great deal of affection on their life style and organization and is closely connected with community and culture. Grasping a culture and behavior on clothing, it has propose to understand Chunghahk-dong properly according to this study. A method of study has a purpose to understand culture and clothing behavior precisely in Chunghahk-dong. I inquire ito clothing behavior with investigation and study of picture script. The results are as followed; People in Chunghahk-dong show unique clothing and hair style behavior based on Genjungyutao. First, men and women wear a white cloth called HanBok(Korean costume) and footwear made of rubber. Only men wear a blue vest. A grown up men wear a long coat when they go out. They are dressed in tractional cloth for a ceremonial occasion. The reason why they put on the HanBok(Korean costume) is a belief on our traditional cloth becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea become a leading country in the world. This clothing behavior is symbol of Genjungyutao and has a role of delivery system for expressing their split. Second, In sign of being a Genjungyutao men, they let their grow hair. Cutting hair is not to be a Genjungyutao men any more. There is few reason that people in Chunghahk-dong let grow their hair : First, because of importance in TanGun's ideology, they believe Korea is a first nation in the world and can't cut their hair which has grown from TanGun (The founding father of the Koran nation) Chosun traditionally. Second, Cutting their hair runs counter to the principle of nature. Third, They value their body for confucianism. They don't want to damage their body because of body from their parents. Boys and girls braid and tie up their hair and adult tie a topknot and a chignon. Wearing a YouGun(A horsehair skullcap) at home and Kat(A Korean top hat) when going out, they express as a Genjungyutao. Hemp cloth and synthetic fibers are main clothes. Also, they wear an improved HanBok(Korean costume) these days on influence outside.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제30권
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• pp.153-166
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• 1996

The purpose of this paper is to examine the Ethnic Fashion which is influenced by the Anti-Fashion in 1960s. Anti-Fashion as Hippie style had an effect on high fashion in the 60s-70s and which was restored in the early 90s are ethnic and folk-lore style. The influence that the Anti-Fashion has had on the Ethnic Fashion is summarized as follows. At the Ethnic Fashion in 60s-70s: First Europian romantic style that is velvet doublet breecheese race cuffs ruffle flounce race jabbot embrioderd blouse frilled blouse Victorian mode and Pre-Raphaello style. Second handicraft ornaments style & peasant style what are embroidery weaving variaty ornaments tie-dye patch work smocking beads & bell paisely print peasant blouse dundle skirt long skirt to clinging layered look floral print dress and shepherd-ness style. Third folklore style that is Oriental mao-suit harem pants & Indian pants caftan monk robe Afgan vest burnoos dhoti pants Hindu robe Red Indian fringe head band feather ornaments Red indian embroidery & weaving body painting gaucho poncho and serapi. At the Ethnic Fashion in 90s.: First Europian classical romantic style that is Victorian style Pre-Raphaello style ruffle & race decorations and velvet materials. Second peasant look& handicraft orna-ments what are floral print long skirt to cling-ing uneven stitches top stitchings patch work embroidery crochet and tie-dye. Third folklore style that is Red Indian style South East mode is sarong skirt & Nheru jacket Tibet & Mongolian style South America style and gypso style.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.89-102
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• 2004

Modern society is age of sports just as health and leisure became dominant concern, which has caused the fixation and development to sports wear considered as fashion for everyday dress. This paper focused on the development process and aesthetic characteristics of knit design expressed in the 20th century sports wear. The importance and direction of knit design in modern sports wear is expected. Style, items, fabrics, colors, details and top designers were analyzed in sports wear from the 1910' s to 1990' s. Sports wear can be categorized into two of the active sports wear and spectator sports wear. Since disappearance of division between ordinary wear and sports fashion in the 1970' s, the functional wear of leggings, cycle shorts, exercise clothes, leotard, and leg warmer appeared. Vicennial developments of synthetic fibers and new fabrics have caused the great changes in knit design. Colors were vivid in the 1950' s, metallic in the 1970' s and neon in the 1990' s. Sportive sense was expressed by various details. The dominant knit designers who expressed aesthetic characteristics to sports wear were Coco Chanel, Claire McCardell, Balenciaga, Andre Courrege, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint-Laurent, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, and Giogio Armani.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.106-114
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• 2006

This research aims to identify the recent changes in construction, design, and technical vocabularies between North and South Korea of the Korean woman's top(Jeogori), which is a main part of her traditional costume(Hanbok). After Korea War, Korea was divided into two countries(the division), and there was little communication between the two until 1972(the interexchange). Thus, this study will compare two time periods: 1953-1972 and 1972 to recent times. Hanbok construction books published in both Koreas are evaluated here to see what similarities and differences existed during these two periods. Women in the North continued to wear their traditional costume(renamed the Chosunot in the North) as daily clothing, but women in the South began saving the Hanbok only for parties and ceremonies. As the North Korean government controlled its peoples dress and continued to make changes, the North kept developing new technical vocabularies, but the South continued to use the same terms fur the Hanbok. From the end of the 1990s, the Chosunot had become more and more similar to the Hanbok in colors, shapes, and materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제43권
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• pp.69-82
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• 1999

This study is focused on the aesthetic application of traditional Korean dress(Items) to the contemporary fashion design. The results are as follows: (1) Each traditional dresses have revealed their aesthetic characteristics according to the periods or time. (2) The dresses of certain period figures and items had been limited in use in fashion design today. (3) The most favoured dresses adapted in fashion design were Chosun costume and female top items were the most preferred in use. (4) The colors applied to the fashion design were also limited. The bright and strong color groups were the most popular colors among fashion designers for their works. White which stands for the image of korean and their dresses were also preferred in use. Therfore experts in various arena of fashion business have to keep in mind following problems:(1) They have to study traditional dresses to enhance their historic knowledges and appreciate their aesthetic beauties (2) Various kinds of dresses from many periods items should be tried to adapt in fashion design by the designers. (3) Various male attires also should be adapted in fashion design. (4) various methodologies are recommended to apply in fashion design (5) fashion moods should be examined to make the krean fashion design rich The plastic characteristics of Korean traditional dresses could be interpreted as a tunnel to show the esprit of Korean and the aesthetic of Korean dresses through the works of fashion design for the international fashion markets or societies.