• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1254-1260
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• 2010

In such special or precious occasions as a wedding ceremony, brides, handicapped or not, wish to wear a beautiful wedding dress. However, an ordinary wedding dress is not suitable nor convenient to a bride who has a bodily impediment. A one-piece type wedding dress, which even a normal bride needs assistants to help her wear, will create more inconvenience to crippled females. In this connection, this study is purposed to convert a normal ready-made wedding dress design into one suitable to the bodily handicapped females. For handicapped people on a wheelchair who generally put on and off a wedding dress while sitting on the chair, a one-piece type wedding dress is divided into the top and the skirt to make it a two-piece type wedding dress which is easy to get into and take off. The top should be separated from the skirt in such a manner that the wearer may not be aware of the division of the two pieces but easily put on and off since the sides or back of the top is opened. An opening is also given to the sides of the skirt so that handicapped people may sit on the skirt on the chair and then close the opening by themselves. Converting ready-made wedding dress design into functional clothes for handicapped people is really significant in that ready-made clothes can be recycled, their production cost reduced, and the economic burden of handicapped people relieved.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.439-448
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• 2018

This thesis intends to suggest a new wedding dress pattern through researches on history and changes of wedding dress, researches on silhouette and details and analyses of existing basic patterns. In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, dress form sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study basic patterns were made using draping techniques. The study finds characteristics of body type dimension that is changed when wearing brassiere (hereinafter, 'bra') for wedding dress through customer surveys for development of basic patterns of wedding dress. That is, wearing wedding bra was used for the purpose of increasing the bust size and we will evaluate later whether this increase helps completeness of aesthetic impression through wearing evaluation. As the result, it was found out that top torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. The effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns. A new torso pattern for top dresses, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing basic patterns and multi-dimensional cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.215-228
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• 2020

Underlying dress forms for high coverage patterns are very important in the dress industry. Size 9 from brand D was chosen according to the analysis that it was the best option because a dress should have a large allowable range in one size. The criteria for selection were the dress form with a waist circumference of 63.50 centimeters, which is close to the standard size of women in Korea. Brassieres for dresses were included to enhance the aesthetic value of the correction process in producing a basic dress pattern. An experimental torso pattern was applied to evaluate the fit and suitability of the dress form that was also later verified in the process of the dress works. Three dresses were produced and presented on the chosen study dress form. The research procedures are as follows. First, the sell-through rates and feedbacks were collected from the dress form vendor. Second, a literature survey on dresses and a dress company investigation were conducted. Third, the amount of body dimension changes due to the use of a bra in the dresses were examined. Fourth, after the correction of the dress form, the torso pattern was made by draping. Fifth, the torso experimental clothing made of muslin material was evaluated. Sixth, the dress works of the top design were presented using the size 9 basic pattern developed by brand D.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.49
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• pp.5-24
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• 1999

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Various kindes of entertainments were beganed by common peoples of old china. 2. From the Han dynasty Various kindes of entertainments are devided into the classic dance and music which was performed courtesy ceremonial meetings of ancient china. 3. Traditional drama dance and musics performed art by artist of old china was called collectively "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" 4. After unification of Han dynasty many commercial men and artist come from western to China therefore western music dance and drama acrobatic magic flowered into the old china so "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items was abundant. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items as follows: 1) dramas 2) horsemanships. 3) acrobatics 4) magics 5) masked dramas. 5. "Various kinds of Entertainments" artist's costumes as follows: 1)For mens: *Old-china's "Various kindes of Entertainments" artist's costumes of Han-dynasty was Chin hyun-Kwan(진현관) right handed neck collor long coat narrow trousers belt just simmillar is official's dress of Han dynasty. *Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes of Westerner's dress is high top hats, lace trimminged round-necklong coat trimminged belt narrow trousers. *Another weaterner's dress is long striped patterned knee-lengh coat narrow trousers *opened top body and wearing narrow pantaloon short skirt short trousers. 2) For females: (1) Hair style is high top hair style twin high top hair style birds hair decorated high top hair style ribbon dressed high top hair style (2) Dress is knee-lengh one-piece west0-lengh jaket and knee-lengh skirt one-piece and short trousers scarf hart sleeved jaket narrow pantallons. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes influenced from royal families costumes to common peoples costumes without concern of that one's social positionon peoples costumes without concern of that one's social position.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.590-601
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• 1995

The purpose of the study is to investigate the effects of physical attractiveness and dress on evaluation of female job Applicants in terms of suitable employment potential and job- type. The study was a 2$\times$3 between subject factorial design with two levels of attractiveness (attractive, moderately attractive) and three levels of dress image(masculine, androgynous, feminine). A group of clothing experts and the middle.level management staffs within a large corporation selected two models(attractive, moderately attractive) through two-step evaluation Process after viewing photographs of 50 female university students. Dresses in three levels were selected by a group of five experts. Two models were photographed with controlled background in three different clothes. Data were collected from 162 management level staffs enrolled in the Top Business Management, The Top Policy Science and the Top Press Information Graduated School of Korea University. Each respondent saw photograph and evaluated the applicant in terms of eight items of employment potential and suitable job type (management position vs. secretary) The results of this research were as follows: 1. Physical attractiveness had significant influences on applicants 'employment potential. Attractive applicant's emplolyment potential was evaluated higher than moderately attract live applicant. 2. Dress had little influence on female job applicants 'employment potential, but dress of androgynous image was evaluated relatively positively. 3. Physical attractiveness had some influences on the evaluation of suitable job-type. The attractive applicant was judged to fit in as a secretary and the moderately attractive model in management position.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.221-232
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• 1995

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.694-703
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• 2013

A variable dress design can be an alternative to satisfy a consumer need for diverse expression and self-realization at a lower cost factor. In the area of wedding dress, the change in the trend of wedding culture (which tends to demand more units of wedding dress) makes the cost factor more important in the purchase selection. A variable design has a clear advantage for wedding dresses and the wedding industry. This is the first research on a variable design that focuses on wedding dresses. This research develops a variable wedding design which respects consumer preferences independent of a variable wedding dress design that presents a new shape of silhouette or the development ofa new wedding dress materials. A survey on the supply side was conducted to examine market preferences by first browsing the Naver portal site and then checking the websites of major wedding dress suppliers. A questionnaire survey was conducted with a sample of 348 brides-to-be that inquired on wedding dress selection factors and purchase patterns. The survey shows that consumers prefer mermaid and A-line silhouettes, silk material, white-ivory color, and tube top necklines. The result conforms to the types commonly found in the designs of suppliers. We apply a detachable design to a basic mermaid silhouette and implemented change for 7 kinds of styles -based on the result of the survey. We suggest a variable wedding dress design as a new means to solve the cost concern and the customer need for diverse expression. The research represents a new life style for wedding culture and facilitates the development of the wedding industry.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.81-81
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• 2001

R.O.C. has experienced successively the development of previous dynasties that creates out the unique traditional culture of each stage. The Chinese nation is not a one-fold race; each dynasty absorbs the culture of the outside race. It is Tang Dynasty blends mutually however yield unusually brilliant results. The Tang Dynasty's national strength is forceful and the economy is prosperous. Above all, social custom and current of thought both break the constraint of previous dynasties' conservative thinking and keep positive and aggressive. While in the contact with extraterritorial culture, not only changes the feminine social status, but also produces unprecedented innovation and reform on the feminine dress. The Tang Dynasty's varied feminine suit is affected by the western regions of China culture, such as expose of chest, low collar, short top garment and skirt with narrow sleeves or wide sleeves, sleeve gown with plate collar or turndown collar, man's wear, and military dress, etc. An epoch can be known by Tang Dynasty feminine dress's special features, for example, the make-up of Tang-Shien-lon's Uan-Ho period presents dress style of late Tang days. However, the Chinese people compete mutually pursuing the strange costume, and accepting different cultural incitement This reveals that the changes of popular culture would result in the big transform of the Tang's dress style. This paper studies inherit of Tang Dynasty's culture and east-spread of the western regions of China culture. While understanding the Tang's favor in the western regions of China customs, all follow the western regions of China without exception, such as dance music, painting, dress, food, amusement, etc. Because of emperor's progressive race policy and forgiveness attitude to the foreign tribe that makes Tang Dynasty's feminine dress much easier to accept and blend the special features of the foreign tribe culture. While joined with west culture, and pick the dress's essence of the western regions of China, the original possessed of culture consciousness and esthetic sense improve and create their own dress, as well as enrich more inner part of dress art and the spirit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.9
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• pp.84-96
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• 2011

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge. The Museum holds a total of eleven items of koran dresses that were donated by two anthropologists in the first half of the twentieth century. Male dresses consist of a white cotton jacket (Jeogori), a under-vest (Deungbaeja) made of light wisteria rings, a headband (Manggeon) made of horsehair, a broad brimmed top hat (Gat) made of black horsehair gauze, an oilskin cover (Galmo) drawn over the hat in wet weather, and a hemispherical hat box (Gatjib). Female dresses comprise a pink silk jacket (Jeogori), a blue silk skirt (Chima) with pleats, a pair of woman's white cotton trousers (Sokgot), a black silk cap (Jobawi) decorated with pink tassels and imitation pearls, and a pair of green and magenta silk shoes (Danghye) with leather soles and metal rivets. Theses Korean dresses show what the western anthropologists had interests in. When collectors collect the folk objects, they thought much of the specificity of shape and material, the esthetic appreciation, and the representation of daily life. In terms of the value as the historical materials in the history of Korean dress, the under-vest of wisteria, the hat box, and the female dresses are worth paying attention to. The under-vest is one that was produced in earlier time among the remaining under-vests. The hat box represents that the hat belonged to the merchant classes. The female dress items show daily dresses worn by women of higher classes of the society in the 1920s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.984-994
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• 1995

The dimensional structure of impression formed of a female figure in specific attire was identified and significant influence of skirt length and suit color on impression formed of figures in suits were researched in the part I of this study. In part ll, the effect of identical elements of apparel design on impression formation of a female figure in dress and pants- blouse were studied. The experimental matirals consisted of two sets of stimuli and 7 point semantic differential response scale developed in part 1. Each set of stimuli was composed of 20 drawings representing female figures in each attire. Three independent variables, which were the length of bottom, color of dress or pants and collar type of blouse, were manipulated in each stimulus. The experiment was arranged by 3 factorial design, and the data were analyzed by 3-way ANOVA and by Multiple Classification Analysis. To summarize, in impression formation of figure in dress, the most dominant design element was identified as bottom length and the second most dominant one was color of dress. In contrast, in perception of figure in pants-blouse, the most important design element was color of pants and secondly important one was bottom length. The collar type of top didn't have critical effect on impression formation of figures in both type of attire.