• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.129-143
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• 2006

This study is to review the printed cotton textile industry of Europe in 17th-l8th century, and specially investigate the development of the Toile do Jouy, printed French fabrics around the 18th century. Generally, the Toile de Jouy has two different meanings. The first meaning is the popular printed cotton textiles producted by wood block printing, copper plate printing and roller printing techniques at Jouy on Joas factory in France, around 18th century. The second meaning is the monochromatic upholstery fabrics printed by copper plate. Actually, this monochromatic printed textiles were the most popular printed cotton fabrics with large scale scenic designs with people, trees, birds, buildings, mythical heroes, protagonists of novel and country scenes of shepherds, sheep and other animals manufactured by Jouy on Joas factory. Main issue of this paper is to propose features of pattern, color and classify types of patterns expressed on the Toile de Jouy fabrics according to printing techniques such as wood block printing, copper plate printing and copper roller printing. And this study is also to analyze on origins of the variety of names called the printed cotton textiles in those days. The results of this study can help to understand the knowledge of printed cotton textiles in Europe and be effectively applied to develop printed fabric design in the textile industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.211-221
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• 2012

The word 'chintz' is thought to be a corruption of spotted cloth. Printing remained a relatively primitive method of decorating textiles in Europe until the second half of the 17th century. The formation of the English East India Company sparked the influx into the West of painted and printed Indian cotton textiles. A William Sherwin took out the first English patent in 1676. The earlist European designs were florals in the Indian manner. Patterns of European flowers returned to England as birds, flowers, trees, vines and stained glass for Victorian chintz. In France, the original and most successsful manufacturer of the distinctive printed fabrics from Jouy was Christophe Philippe Oberkampf. Copperplate printing was introduced to Jouy in 1770, probably reaching the pinnacle of achievement in the craft after 1783 when Jean-Baptiste Huet became chief designer. Huet's style was widely imitated in France and abroad, and the term 'toile de Jouy' has come to be universally applied to monochrome figurative designs wherever and by whomsoever they were produced. Oberkampf served his apprenticeship as an engraver with some leading manufacturers, including a period in Mulhouse. In Alsace, which was not part of France until 1798, the first factory had opened in 1746 in Mulhouse, and the area soon had the largest number of print-works in France.