• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.228-237
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• 2015

Field observations were conducted to collect hydrodynamic and morphological data, which are needed to account for mechanisms of bathymetry changes caused by physical forcings, in Haeundae beach. In order to quantitatively describe characteristics of wave transformations and current patterns in space in winter and summer, in-situ sensors for measuring waves and current profiles were installed at three locations in the cross-shore direction and also three locations in the along-shore direction. As for the results of wave measurements, waves with main direction from the east dominate in winter while waves are incident from the S and the ESE in summer. Analysis of current data reveals that currents over the study domain are considerably influenced by a pattern of tidal motions, thereby, mainly oscillating in the direction of tidal currents, i.e., east-west directions, in both winter and summer. Currents tend to be influenced by local bathymetry in the shallow water region, with the direction changed along the depth contours and the magnitude reduced as they approach the shoreline. The results analysed from the hydrodynamic data through this study can be further combined with the morphological and bathymetry data, leading to the quantification of seasonal sediment transport rates and sand budget changes.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.227-231
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to clarify the behavior of stranded crude oil and to estimate the restoration of seawater infiltration by application of dispersant as one of cleaning techniques. We made visualization of infiltration process of seawater and stranded crude oil on the sandy beach sediments by using of a model sandy beach. Major conclusions derived from this study are as follows. The seawater infiltration volume was reduced by the stranded crude oil. However, thirty percentage of the sweater infiltration into the sediments was restored by dispersant application to the penetrated oil in sandy beach. The penetration depth of stranded oil were dropped at first falling tide, but were not significantly fluctuated after that. Moreover, oil concentration was most high within the upper 2 cm. The stranded crude oil was broken into small size droplets and dispersed into the sediments by the dispersant application. Therefore, dispersant applications play an important roles in the large increase of surface area of given volume of oil, and it resulted in promoting to biological degradation process at the oil/water interface, dispersing the stranded oil into the water column and restoration of the supplement of the dissolved oxygen and nutrients to the benthic organisms.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.203-213
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• 2024

This study aimed to investigate the seasonal patterns of multiple bar formation in summer and flattening in winter on the macrotidal Sinduri beach in Taean, and to understand the processes their formation and subsequent flattening. Beach profiling has been conducted regularly over the last four years using a VRS-GPS system. Surface sediment samples were collected seasonally along the transectline, and grain size analyses were performed. Tidal current data were acquired using a TIDOS current observation system during both winter and summer. The Sinduri macrotidal beach consists of two geomorphic units: an upper high-gradient beach face and a lower gentler sloped intertidal zone. High berms and beach cusps did not develop on this beach face. The approximately 400-m-wide intertidal zone comprises distinct 2-5 lines of multiple bars. Mean grain sizes of sand bars range from 2.0 to 2.75 phi, corresponding to fine sands. Mean sizes show shoreward coarsening trend. Regular beach-profiling survey revealed that the summer profile has a multi-barred morphology with a maximum of five bar lines, whereas, the winter profile has a non-barred, flat morphology. The non-barred winter profiles likely result from flattening by scour-and-fill processes during winter. The growth of multiple bars in summer is interpreted to be formed by a break-point mechanism associated with moderate waves and the translation of tide levels, rather than the standing wave hypothesis, which is stationary at high tide. The break-point hypothesis for multi-bars is supported by the presence of the largest bar at mean sea-level, shorter bar spacing toward the shore, irregular bar spacing, strong asymmetry of bars, and the 10-30 m shoreward migration of multi-bars.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.1191-1201
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• 2014

The rip current warning index function, which estimates the likelihood of dangerous rip current in the real-time rip current warning system operating to help mitigate against rip current accidents at Haeundae beach, was studied. The rip current warning index evaluated as a function of various real-time observations was developed based on Choi et al. (2013b). This study shows a version of rip current warning index improved by including the effect of wave direction and spreadings of frequency-directional spectrum on rip current likelihood. The wave and tidal observations in 2012 at Haeundae coast were applied to the rip current index function, and its performances at several real events found based on CCTV images were presented and analyzed.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2009.06a
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• pp.452-455
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• 2009

The Nakdong Delta can be identified by two different geomorphic units. The first one is the upper delta. This is mostly composed of inter-distributary islands that are largely influenced by fluvial processes and attributed to the development of these islands along the river. The other one is the lower delta which is mostly composed of beach ridges. Barrier islands are largely effected by wave processes promoted by the development almost at a right angle to the river. Influenced by the longshore current which flows to the same direction, barrier islands located in the Nakdong river estuary are developing from east to west direction. As a result, the eastern end of the barrier islands are growing toward the north-west direction effected by tidal current which moves toward the same direction. Barrier islands include the Sinho Island, the Jinwoo Island, the Daema deung, the Janga Island, the Baghap deung, the Sae deung, and the Chulsae deung(Doyeo deung). They have orderly emerged from the sea since 1861. Since 2008, a new Deung, a sand dune growing under sea, has been developing rapidly from Chulsae deung to the Dadaepo beach. It made the sailing of small fisher boats impossible. Tidal currents transported a lot of sand and silt around the barrier islands. The landscape of Nakdong river estuary where many barrier islands are distributed will change rapidly affecting land environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.527-535
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• 2016

The Manseongri Coast meets the sea on the southeast and is composed of coarse sediment as a mesotidal beach. The waves that strike the beach are stronger than the tides or tidal currents as external forces of beach deformation. Storm waves frequently reach significant wave heights of 2-3m and hit in spring and summer, leaving the sea calm during fall and winter. Incident waves reach remarkable heights that correspond with observed shoreline changes. The shoreline erodes in spring and summer due to these strong waves but recovers in fall and winter as a result of the more moderate waves. On the basis of these observed results, a numerical calibration for experiments on shoreline change was established. Results revealed that according to hindcast data, calculated shoreline changes agreed with the observed shoreline, with a minimum RMS error of 1.26m with calibration parameters $C_1=0.2$ and $C_2=1C_1$. Using these calibration parameters, long-term shoreline change was predicted after the construction of submerged breakwaters and jetties, etc. The numerical model showed that the shoreline would move forward by 5-15m behind the submerged breakwaters and recede by 5-15m north of the structure.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.133-143
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• 1992

The water-quality control for coastal waters is continuously required in view point of the environmental protection. The purpose of this study is to simulate the hydrodynamic process and the dispersion phenomena of several pollutants in Suyeong Bay, Pusan. The present study employs the depth-averaged 2-dimensional model for nemerical simulation of the hydrodynamics and diffusion. The nemerical solution is obtained by ADI(Altenating Direction Implicit) scheme which is frequently used for tidal current and diffusion computations in the coastal zone. To verify the nunlerical results, the field observations of various water quality parameters such as COD, SS and nutrients were performed during the spring tide. In the results of this study, the computed tidal currents show the clockwise flows for ebb tide and counter-clockwise flows for flood tide. In comparison with the water-qualities in ebb tide and flood tide, there seems to be slightly deteriorated in ebb tide and especially near the estuary of Suyeong River. In flood tide, however, the water-quality near Kwangan Beach is deteriorated. The computed distributions of COD and SS are in god agreements with the observed ones, while those of $PO_4\;^{3-}-P\;and\;NO_3\;^--N$ show slight differences due to the complex transformation processes.

• Journal of Fisheries and Marine Sciences Education
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.947-956
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• 2016

This study analysed the documents of Sea Area Utilization Consultation of JongChun and ApHae located in West Coast of Korea and NaJeong located in East Coast of Korea in order to find out problems of site surveys and numerical simulations for coastal erosion projects of ocean physics, and suggested the improvement way to go. Current especially like wave-induced current is the one of the important external forces to handle coastal erosion but underestimated in the west coast. In case of east coast the various tests including wave-induced current were conducted but less efficient to find out the reasons of coastal erosion. The stiffness structure to protect coastal line like beach made the secondary erosion by using them without sufficient analysis for the erosion. In order to consult a Sea Area Utilization Consultation those are needed to review the scenarios for external forces such as wave and tidal currents, the site surveys for external forces, the net sediment analysis for years, the long periods of monitoring, and the guide line and revision of the rule for coastal erosion.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.305-313
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• 2008

Recently it was known that the problems of nearshore processes and damage of berth and counter facilities frequently had appeared at the small fishery port, such as Daebang near Samcheonpo city, Korea. Here we try to analyze the impact of the rearrangement of counter facilities and berth layout adopted for tranquility of its inner harbor. Because this harbor is being connected to Daebang channel, the rearrangement of the structures might affect to the current speed and direction and wave height, so do to the sea bottom undulation. Therefore, we made model test for the several layouts of the berth and breakwater in this area. Numerical model result shows that the bottom was eroded by 1m by tidal currents and the speed of flow did not shrink, even after the construction work was completed. The direction of the sand movement was downdrift. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and approach channel sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to compare with the field history, including the records of waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.308-320
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• 2021

An integrated sediment management approach that includes the recovery of the amount of declined sediment supply is effective as a fundamental solution to coastal erosion. During planning, it is essential to analyze the transfer mechanism of the sediments generated from estuaries (the junction between a river and sea) to assess the amount and rate of sediment discharge (from the river to sea) supplied back to the coast. Although numerical models that interpret the tidal sand bar flushing process during flooding have been studied, thus far, there has been no study focusing on the formation and development processes of tidal sand bars. Therefore, this study aims to construct wave deformation, flow regime calculation, and topographic change analysis models to assess the amount of recovered sediment discharge and reproduce the tidal sand bar formation process through numerical analysis for integrated littoral drift management. The tidal sand bar formation process was simulated, and the wave energy and duration of action concepts were implemented to predict the long-term littoral movement. The river flux and wave conditions during winter when tidal sand bars dominantly develop were considered as the external force conditions required for calculation. The initial condition of the topographic data directly after the Maeupcheon tidal sand bar flushing during flooding was set as the initial topography. Consequently, the tidal sand bar formation and development due to nearshore currents dependent on the incident wave direction were reproduced. Approximately 66 h after the initial topography, a sand bar formation was observed at the Maengbang estuary.