• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.79-98
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze and document special design elements of the knit material, such as yarn, stitch, and gauge used in various types of knit in a collection of men's fashion, and to provide basic data for database design. The analysis covers 37 brand collections of men's clothing, used to collect a total of 1,954 men's knitwear photographs, and others were collected from 12 collections from F/W to 2017 S/S collection through www.vogue.com. The results of the analysis of the knit design elements of the contemporary men's collection since 2011 are as follows. First, there were 1,513 straight yarn (77%) and 440 decorative yarn (23%) types of yarn. There were many different kinds of decorative yarn, such as two tone and melange effect in three colors, and the emergence of hairy yarn, like mohair and angora shannell, which was much common in low gauge's knitwear designs. Second, the frequency was high with low and middle gauges. thin and light high-gauges were often found in S/S collections, but there were also thick types of yarn in low-gauge knitwear. Third, 794 (40.6%) items used basic stitches such as plain stitch, which was the most utilized. The plain stitch, which is the most basic of the knit stitches, appears to be in high demand for its use, along with the use of various decorators. The development of printing and dyeing technologies has led to many designs that utilize the printer for the plain stitch. 326 (16.7 %), of colored jacard stitch, and of 175 (0.9 %) of intasia stitch.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 2003년도 The Korea-Japan Joint Symposium
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• pp.39-40
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• 2003

This research surveys the effects of POY physical properties and processing conditions of belt texturing machine to the draw textured yarns. The various textured yarns are made with variation of 1st heater temperature, draw ratio and velocity ratio, and the physical properties of these specimens such as yarn linear density, tensile properties and wet and dry thermal shrinkages are measured and analyzed with POY physical properties and processing conditions of texturing machine. Especially yarn mechanical properties of DTY are analysed with the variation of untwisting tension (T$_2$) on the untwisting part in DTY process and thin and thick DTY yam model are proposed with surging phenomena in DTY process.

• 한국농공학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.135-143
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• 1989

The in-plane permeabilities for domestic geotextile products are calculated by some theoretical formulas and compared with them obtained by experiments to examine the suitability of those formulas. The results obtained are as follows: 1. It appears that the diameter of the filament yarn is larger and more uniform than that of the staple fiber according to the microscopic analysis on the geotextile 2. The in-plane permeability of the geotextile shows that the theoretical values by drag and channel theory is close to the experimental ones. 3. The porosity of the geotextile is hardly influenced by normal pressure. 4. In the case of the same thickness of the geotextile the side surface area of the filament yarn is larger than that of the staple fiber. 5. The capillary height of the geotextile shows that the theoretical values is close to the experimental ones and thick geotextile is higher than thin geotextile.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.27-39
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• 1976

복합견방사 및 복합견직물을 시작하여 다음의 결과를 얻었다. 1 정연제별 처리효과는 규산소다, 가성소다, 탄산소 및 비누의 순이다. 2. 가성소다 3% 액으로 정연할 경우는 견담백질의 과잉 용해로 진면제조가 불가하다. 3. 견의 정연효과는 처리시간보다 농도가 크다. 4. 정연제의 단독사용보다는 이중이상을 혼용하는 것이 진면품질을 향상시킬 수 있다. 5. 견수방사의 명주소리와 광택향상을 위하여서는 유기산의 혼용이 요구된다. 6. 심사에 의하여 복합수방사의 강도는 증가한다. 7. 복합수방사의 성도변동율은 8∼l2%이다. 8. 견과 데도롱직의 염색은 이욕법으로 처리하여야 한다. 9. 복합수방사 견직물의 수축율은 23%이다. 10. 복합수방사직물은 여자용 동복지로 복합생사 직물은 부라우스지로 사용 가능하다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권8호
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• pp.968-981
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.641-647
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• 2012

This study investigates the sound properties of fabric frictional sound (SPL, ${\Delta}L$, ${\Delta}f$) according to the film type of PTFE laminated vapor-permeable water-repellent fabrics in order to understand the relationship between SPL and the basic properties of fabrics such as layer, yarn type, and thickness of fiber. This study accesses their mechanical properties and determines how to control them to minimize SPL. Eight PTFE laminated water-repellent fabrics, composed of four different film types (A, B, C, D) and with two different fabrics, were used as test specimens. Frictional sounds generated at 1.21m/s were recorded by using a fabric sound generator and SPLs were analyzed through Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT). The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by KES-FB. The SPL value was lowest at 74.4dB in film type A and highest as 85.5dB in type D. Based on ANOVA and post-hoc test, specimens were classified into less Loud Group (A, B) and Loud Group (C, D). It was shown that SPL was lower when 2 layer (instead of 3 layer), filament yarn than staple, and thin fiber than thick were used. In Group I, shearing properties (G, 2HG5), geometrical roughness (SMD), compressional properties (LC, RC) and weight (W) showed high correlation with SPL however, elongation (EM) and shear stiffness (G) did with SPL in Group II.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.65-77
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• 1982

The intent of this study was to focus attention on the relationship between curtain fabrics and consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies. This study consisted of the laboratory test for thermal transmittance of selected fabrics and the exploratory survey for consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies. The objectives of the laboratory test were to measure fabric's thermal transmittance, thickness, and count which affect to the effect in heat controlling. Selected 23 fabrics were tested at Korean Yarn and Fabrics Testing Inspection Institute. The objectives of the exploratory survey were to determine sociodemographic factors; the stage of family life cycle, the economics status, and homemaker's level of education, and physical factors; the type of houses, the direction of windows, and the type of windows, affect consumer perceptions toward curtains and draperies. Questionaires were administered to 489 homemakers selected by a stratified propotional sampling plan, in Seoul in October, 1981. Data from responses were analyzed by T-test(Analysis of Varience) and Partial Correlation. The major findings are as follows; 1. The results of the laboratory test 1) The fabrics used for draperies had higher effect in heat controlling than the fabrics used for glass curtains. 2) It did not show much differences among the fibers in heat controlling. The thicker fibers, however, had the higher effect in heat controlling among same fibers. 3) The fabrics which had high level of effect I heat controlling were corduroy, flax, rayon, nylon, acetate, thick polyester, and thick polyacrylic. The fabrics which had midium level of affect in heat controlling were velveteen, velvet, and thin polyester. The fabrics which had low level of effect in heat controlling were cotton, silk, and thin polyarcylic. 4) The draperies with lining showed 2∼5 times more effective in heat controlling than the draperies without lining. 2. The results of the exploratory survey Consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies consisted of functional, financial, and aesthetic perception. 1) Factor affecting functional perception towards curtains and draperies was the stage of family life cycle. Families in the contracting stage considered function of curtains and draperies significantly better than those in others stages. 2) Factors affecting financial perception towards curtains and draperies were the economic status, homemaker's level of education, the direction of windows, and the type of windows. However the correlation between the factors and financial perception was too low to explain the significance of tendency. 3) There was not any factors affecting aesthetic perception towards curtains and draperies.