• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.167-182
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.80-100
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to classify that fashion and art in the twentieth century broadened the creative field by individually applying each other's ideas or through collaboration. This paper analyses the work of individual artists and fashion designers who created work on the boundaries of fashion and art. These samples are selected to extract features related to specific periods as it is proposed that contemporary creation has been developed from a combination of fashion and art, sharing their distinct concerns. Accordingly, this research will focus on the collaboration between fashion and art in the twentieth century from the aspect of 'fashion into art'/'art into fashion' in order to analyse the historical flow, and thereby examine the relationship between fashion and art. The cross-fertilization between fashion and art was initiated as an imitation of form in the early twentieth century, and led to a 'new cross-disciplinary form' which exists on the boundary of fashion and art. This paper considers the relationship between fashion and art from the perspective of sharing intrinsic concepts and the creation of a new creative sphere. It analyses the characteristics of the works of fashion designers and artists whose works lie on the boundary between fashion and art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.594-604
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• 2000

This study aims to investigate the changes in the Wedding costume for Paebak(Hyunkugorye) in Westernizing Korean society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analyzed the related literature for the first half of the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 116 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. It is obvious that bridegroom and bride wore the same clothes for Hyunkugorye and the formal wedding ceremony in the early twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, wonsam was rather more widely used than hwalot as the bride's wedding costume in the late twentieth century. But there were many changes starting from the early 1970s. The changes were deviated from the traditional style and became more decorative and somewhat crude: that is, people began to embroider wonsam and the piping was added to the collar of danryung. All these changes resulted from the pursuit of commercial interests with the misunderstanding of and the indifference to traditional beauty, while Korean society had experienced the Japanese rule of Korea, the Korean War and the industrialization during the 1960s and 1970s. Therefore, to establish appropriate wedding culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people who get involved in wedding business for traditional wedding culture and clothes, because nowadays . most of bridegrooms and brides borrow ceremonial costume for Hyunkugorye.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.148-159
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to understand continuity and discontinuity of the neoclassic style in early twentieth century fashion modernism. Researching relations in fashion between eighteenth to nineteenth century and twentieth century, the theory of 'linked solution' suggested by Kubler and Broadsky has been accepted. The results of this study are as follows: In early twentieth century fashion, continuity of the neoclassic style is considered as presentation of geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body and moderation of decoration. Also simple construction to present practical purpose of the dress in honesty were continued. On the other hand, discontinuity of the style is found in the imitation of men's classic tailored suits and standardization of sizes and styles. These are considered to reflect such early twentieth century sociocultural contexts as equality of the sexes and mechanical aesthetics. Hopefully this study will contribute to the broadening of insight in fashion connecting traditions.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.324-336
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• 2007

Throughout the twentieth century, American furniture was subject to a number of influences-both domestic and foreign. Especially, in the first half of the twentieth century, there were strong foreign influences compare to the later half of the century. Therefore, this study aimed for discussing foreign influences and for addressing issues such as attitudes toward materials, ornamentation, and technology. As a result, this study suggests how American furniture becomes instinctive moving away from strong foreign influences from the second half of the century. The twentieth century was a period of rapid and dynamic change for American furniture design. In many ways, the designs throughout the century were reflective of the social, political, and economic culture of the time. With the birth of the modern movement in Europe and a strong influx of foreign immigrants, American design in the first half of the century was characterized by a reliance on European and foreign influences. However, after the two world wars, strong domestic influences came into play. The two world wars provided the essential catalysts for change: new materials, developing technology, and changes in life style and consumer values. A historical examination of design trends and individual designers illustrates how American furniture design evolved during this period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.52-75
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to classify the historical features of mid-to-late twentieth century Korean fashion with a focus on 'Nora Noh', who is a first generation Korean fashion designer. The specific questions of this research are as follows: how did mid-to-late twentieth century Korean fashion and the Nora Noh brand develop and what is the relationship between the two? What are the important features of Korean women's fashion design in the mid-to-late twentieth century? What are the characteristics exhibited in each decade in Korean women's fashion and Nora Noh's fashion? This paper conducted the research by focusing on the Korean fashion development as a background of simplification in the way of dressing and specific historical incident. Researchers deployed a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing content as well as eleven oral statement interviews and the case study of Nora Noh. The result shows that Nora Noh is one of the first generation of Korean fashion designers who led fashion trend and system in Korea. The designer also influenced Korean commercial fashion in the 1970s and American fashion trends in the 1980s.

• Korean Journal of Environmental Biology
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.403-412
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• 2014

This article chronicles key shifts in intellectual property regimes in the twentieth century as they related to the commercialization of academic research. The institutionalization and growth of scientific research in the research university in the twentieth century and the increasing awareness of its potential to promote technology innovation and economic growth posited an important question of the ownership of knowledge created in the academic setting, where knowledge was traditionally regarded as a common property among academic researchers. This paper shows the ownership of academic knowledge emerged as a key public policy and legal issue in the latter half of the twentieth century for academic researchers and government officials who pursue the commercialization of academic knowledge for private gain and public benefit. The resulting institutionalization of patent management in the research university and shifts in federal patent policy in turn opened a new legal avenue for the establishment of the private ownership of academic knowledge and the expansion of intellectual property rights in academia, especially in the area of biological and biomedical research. Reflecting upon historical shifts in intellectual property regimes in the twentieth century, this paper suggests recent controversies regarding ownership of biological knowledge and profit sharing in developing counties are linked to critical issues pertinent to the welfare of indigenous population, utilization of new natural resources, and sustainable development for humanity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.34-40
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• 2006

Fascism is a term that began to be used from the late 1930s, means an idea and a system that the strong power of the state intervenes or control people's life based on the argument that the existential value of individuals is found only in the total. Fascist looks, which resulted from World War I and II, had brought a new pattern in women's fashion inspired by men's military uniforms. Thus, the purpose of this study was to identify fascist fashion trends in the first half of the twentieth century and to infer various aesthetic values of fascism expressed in fascist fashion looks. The results of this study indicated that expressions of fascism reflected the current ideology of rebellion and appealed to the original national sentiment of the masses. Fascism occurred in response to the contradiction of capitalism and its general crisis had emerged as an ideology with the highest popularity symbolizing power and government during the first half of the twentieth century. It was expressed in military looks as self-centered nationalism and yearning for minorities. Second, fascist fashion looks were not only for political and sexual temptation with the image of power but also for the display of women's status and roles through the bold expression of sexual attractiveness. Finally, fascist fashion looks expressed medieval images praising the feudal age in imagination that contained heroism and at the same time achieved integration under strict social hierarchical order.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2009

As foundation wear, underwear is the starting point where a woman shapes her figure and constructs a female identity. In the late twentieth century, the use of underwear as outerwear was extensively adapted, so underwear as outerwear is the latest thing today. Based on literature review, this study aimed to examine how underwear was adopted for use as outerwear extensively in the late twentieth century. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, originally there was no border between underwear and outerwear at the start. With the change of female social and political status, the function of underwear and its design has been changed diversely. Also, its revealing and decoration has been linked with female sexual attraction. Second, by some precursor fashion designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier, underwear was redefined as outerwear with erotic but powerful meaning in the Twentieth century. Their idea had an enormous influence on contemporary fashion culture, and consequently has become popularized like lingerie look today. Third, the change of female social status led a big change in view on the female sexuality and the ideas of femininity in fashion culture in the Twentieth century. Dressed by Gaultier, Madonna's performance wearing corset costume played a role in redefining contemporary femininity in relation to sexuality and power, even though it is still under the controversy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.126-145
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• 2010

The purpose of this research is to classify the design features of twentieth century women's tennis wear. The specific research questions are; how tennis has developed and what is the relationship between tennis wear and modern dress? What are the important developments in women's tennis wear design in the twentieth century? What are the characteristics exhibited in each decade in women's tennis dress? This paper conducted current research by considering the women's tennis wear as a background of dress simplification. Forty pictures showing tennis wear from international tennis games' catalogues and literatures were selected for this study. Researchers employed a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies analyzed by content. The results show that sportswear has become an important trend in contemporary fashion. Tennis wear also had influence on modern dress. Current development is concentrated on functional new materials and sports marketing.