• 복식
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.145-158
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• 2002

The so-called 'Bustle'which was a support put on waist to heave the side the buttocks means the grandiloquent style to express to ideal body. Bustle style. one of the outstanding and remarkable fashion trends in the late 20th century, has significant meaning in fashion history. This is because not only the style has the longest history, but also it has been periodically repeated every end of a century from the 17th to the 20th century. To analyse to cause the Bustle style was shown, I studied first the sign of forthcoming activity of the Bustle style, the change of the Bustle style shown In the times at the end of century and feature of the Bustle style. Based on the previous reasons of appearance of the Bustle style In the history. there are two similarities. First. reaction led to an occurrence of the reactionary tendency, the Bustle style as they were eager for the past because of a feeling of uneasiness about a coming century. Second, the principle of retrogression led to an occurrence of the Bustle style craving for new style. This Bustle style welch was reaction from being tired of the former fashion appeared to expression a desire for new style. In short, Bustle style was an intermediation between different histories and the basis for continuous development of new eras. rather than lust a part of classicism.

• 한국식품과학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.760-765
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• 1989

향미료 또는 착향료로서 서양요리에 주로 이용하는 육두구 (Nutmeg, Kernels of the fruits of Myristica fragrans Houttuyn)를 $37^{\circ}C$에서 숙성시키면서 상압수증기 증류장치로 향기성분을 추출한 후, capillary GC와 CC/MS를 이용하여 이들 휘발성 화합물의 조성변화를 관찰하였다. 숙성기간의 경과에 따라 저비점화합물의 백분율은 점차 감소하는 반면, 고비점화합물의 백분율은 증가하였고, 중비점화합물은 약간 증가하였다. 특히, 고비점화합물 중 myristicin과 myristic acid는 현저하게 증가하여, 6개월째 각각 24.50% 및 18.69%이었다. 전체 휘발성 화합물의 양은 4개월까지 증가하다가 이후는 점차 감소하였다.

• 복식
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• 제59권9호
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• pp.55-70
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• 2009

This study aims at analyzing the formativeness of women fashion shoes shown in the high fashion since 2000 along with the necessity of study for such purposes. Fashion shoes designed for the perfection of high fashion have been positioned as an important item to increase the value of fashion. Subsequently, three formative images through the research method under the literature study could be analyzed as follows. First, the Fetishism image appeared from 18th century and the shoe heel has the erotic internal beauty while attracting the erotic nature from the perspective of 'feet confinement'. The high heel came to have an absolute relationship with the feminine beauty, and the feet and shoes are accepted for the erotic symbol regardless of anyone in the East or West. Second, the fashion shoes in the Maximalism image to pursue for the dream and excitement at the same time have been shown at the same time by using various ornaments in an exaggerated manner for the use of ornaments to clothes through designs by shoe designers. Third, the Aristocratism image in the fashion shoes was remarkably highlighted with the use of materials from processing natural materials with the best quality, which was expressed in an exotic manner with roughness and comfort despite the nature of refinement balanced with the simple reactionary tendency and technical senses of handicrafts. It can be perceived that the inner emotions of human beings are expressed by intentionally dismantling the functions of shoes in terms of functionality even in the fashion shoes in completing the ideal images after which are pursued by people.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.137-149
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to learn from a lesson of the historical fact, the Team 10's break away from the CIAM, which is selected as the most important event in the whole 20th century architecture by author as a historian. The CIAM, organized in 1928 by leading European architects in order to propose new architecture in the industrial era, expanded to the world, met almost annually with an idea of economic efficiency, new functional order, and industrial production for thirty years. Young architects had conflicted with old established group from 6th congress, and after 10th congress they met independently in 1959; the CIAM was disappeared and the Team 10 was born. Main issue of the break-away was human aspect. The Team 10 started from real man, concept of 'human contact', 'sense of community', and 'belonging' instead of abstract functional order. Although CIAM did not suggest inhumane architecture, their biological criteria with sunlight, air, sufficient site became physical determinism. Critique against the Team 10, unsuccess for making humane architecture leads to underestimation like a generational hegemony struggle. However, architect is not specialist of life but form. Historical reevaluation for Team 10 should be that they are the first group to raise an human issue in architecture. Success or not to solve the problem belongs to another domain. After 1960, modern architecture was attacked from the common people, not clients but 'users'. Academic circle tried to solve the problem with behavioral approach through a clear process, 'design method' and with phenomenological approach on real human experience. However practice became reactionary tendency, to make form a little complex, they became post-modern and deconstruction form. Failure of the Team 10's form proved that a complex form does not necessarily make a good life of people. In the Korean historic situation of colony ruling, confusion of liberation, and the War, we did not know the existence of both CIAM and Team 10. After 1970s' economic development, we have just copied Western form from Modern via Post-Modern to Deconstruction. If we make architecture people mattered, we should start from the basic, learning from the Team's break-away, instead of copying.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.