Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.30
no.6
s.154
/
pp.851-858
/
2006
The human have constantly pursued the beauty through the history. Especially, the pursuit for the beauty of the human's body means that the subject is at one with the object pursued by Ire subject, which so called as the most active behavior of searching far the beauty. However it sometimes shows that human have tried excessively to search for the beauty of the human's ideal body in the history, and to the degree of hurting the body. For example, the corset was eagerly worn by women with the hope of a satisfied silhouette because the slender waist and the busty bosom were demanded as the woman's ideal body at 18C and 19C(the age of Victorian). The purpose of this study was to investigate the corset fashion in 18C, 19C, one of the most aggressive fashions out of the unreasonable fads, using narcissism that Freud mentioned as inside energy called libido. And the reason why to use the theory of narcissism in this study was that fashion as social outcome is thought to be influenced by the environment but the wearing behavior is considered totally private, it is particularly when focused on the excess ive energy, and the scope was limited to the investigation into the source of the energy binding the own body to hurting. The analysis about this craze of a corset with the view of the theory of narcissism as follows. First, women could mold the ideal concretely in surroundings that ideal woman was constituted just to focus on the appearance, moreover, the mother reinforced the narcissism of their offsprings. Also, the society demanded women to be chaste, and did not allowed for women to reveal libido to the external. As a result of this, libido should be ended up concentrating on ego. With this process, it to be difficult for 'ideal ego' impossible for attainment to transfer to compromising product, ego ideal. That is, women did not think entirely to be out of the question to reach the ideal ego, which meant the energy to tight waists was given women.
This study aims to compare the beauty of costume in the Gothic with that of Renaissance periods. By analyzing the beauty of costume which reflects the ideal of the age, this study attempts to provide the insight which can predict the beauty of future costume The characteristics of Gothic costume is the from of the loose enveloping of the body, which can be accounted for from the influence the Christian religion, and the emphasis on the vertical line influenced by the steeple in the Gothic architecture expressing the enthusiasm of the religion. The emphasis on height in the Gothic cathedrals was reflected in the hennin, pointed shoes, and lengthy sleeves of Gothic dress. The beauty of Gothic costume lies in the from of slender, the emphases on the vertical line, the we of heraldry and parti-color, and pointed hat and shoe. The Renaissance architecture shows a broad horizontal appearance. There is the similarity between the Renaissance costume and Renaissance architecture. The beauty of Renaissance costume lies in the form of the exposing body, the exaggerated silhouette, the emphasis on the horizontal line, the use of ruff and slash in order to display the beauty of human body and the beauty of cubic. The ideal beauty of Gothic and Renaissance costume was influenced by the spirit the age and was in contrast.
It is a universal phenomenon for people to establish ideal images of man according to a specific time, society and race. Thus, people have invested endless endeavor to reach the standard of ideal image. Especially, they made efforts to embody the ideal image of man as a perfect human image using appearance feature like a human body and clothing. Shi jing(詩經) is considered as a very valuable source book which reveals the life style, customs, thinking, ideas, and emotion of people of that period. The purpose of this study is to analyze the ideal image of man and woman which ancient Chinese pursued, focusing Shi jing(詩經). The results are as following. The ideal image of man is nice, handsome, dignified, generous and gentle. Besides, he should have adequate sense of humor, tall height. clear eye, broad forehead, moderate and upright behavior, outstanding horsemanship and marksmanship and braveness. Meanwhile, the ideal image of woman was described as gentle, decent, and graceful. Also, she should have tall height, light complexion, pretty hand, long neck, broad forehead, clear eyes, and charming black hair. The ideal beauty of woman included nobility and elegant personality in addition to the good physical appearance.
The purpose 7f this study is to investigate the change of the ideal beauty of human bodies and the related clothing form designs from the ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period in the aspect of optical illusions effects to achieve the ideal beauty so that we can accumulate the knowledges for the modern clothing form design and the related optical illusion effects. The scope of this study is limited to the female body forms and female dress forms. The analysis on the optical illusions in the dress forms of the various period relied on the literatures and some representative photographs and figures. The important results are as follows : 1. In the body Priority type designs of Egypt, Greece and Rome, the natural Beauty of human bodies was represented by H type silhouett, the smooth and transparent drapery materials were used with radiant line pleats resulting in slant optical illusions. 2. In the clothing priority type designs of Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Romantic Period, manteau, cotehardie, hennin and poulain were used to emphasize long arms and legs, high waists, belly curves and large heads resulting in optical illusions of vertical emphasize. Also long train, farthingale and panier were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in the optical illusions of Titchener alld Lipps. Large and complex patterns showed the optical illusions of Aubert. 3. In the clothing priority/body concealment type of Byzantine period, thick materials with precious gems and voluminous silhouettes were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in optical illusions of materials.
The purpose of this research is to contemplate chronological changes of Korean actress facial image and fashion from 1960s to 1990s and to identify Korean women's ideal beauty reflected through the times. Adjectives describing representative actresses of each studied decade were collected from major newspapers and magazines. Korean women's ideal beauty was divided into 4 sub-types such as youthful, pure, sophisticate, and sexy images. As a result of analyzing actress facial image and fashion, youthful and pure beauties were found consistently over the studied periods. Representative characteristics of sophisticate and sexy beauties have been changed over the studied periods which were influenced by socio-cultural environment factors. The result of this research can provide meaningful sources for historical drama, celebrity marketing strategy planning, and personal image consulting.
This paper examines the pastoral ideal and its legacy to landscape design. We have had the routine convention of experiencing natural beauty from the picture-like nature. We, who would liken a scenic view to a picture, often equate natural beauty with superficial representations of nature shown in pastoral literature and traditional landscape paintings: the lush of towering trees, the field of endless green, the soft babbling flow of the river and the crisp clear sky. It is not a portrayal of nature as it is, but in fact a conceptual expression of its ideal form. The ideological root of that natural beauty can be retraced to the pastoral ideal, so eagerly longed for by people of the western world. A pastoral landscape graciously marked with leisurely peace and subtle harmony is what we identify as beautiful nature. In fact, however, it is no more than an artificial refuge in contextual isolation from its surrounding, and a by-stander's nature seen purely through the eyes of the outsider. The tradition of pastoralism, reaching its peak in the 18th century with its English Landscape Garden style, was transplanted into the real world through the practice of landscape architecture. Landscape design in such a form is just a static means of decoration devoid of meaning and process. And we simply identify the green ornamentation with nature.
Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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v.5
no.1
s.12
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pp.78-86
/
2007
One of the latest social trends is to reappear old things under the banner of the revival. It is easily found in the fashion industry because Fashion is not divided into the past, the present and the future thing but coexisting through all ages. The purpose of this study was to pursue the healthy and characteristic beauty of the modem people by understanding the beauty culture of the ancient. The Middle ages were mainly classified into Byzantine, Romanesque and Gothic by historical and cultural factors. In the Byzantine age, the clothing with rich silhouette was worn by the influence of the abstemious religion and it didn't express a specific proportion of human body. The people covered their hair with turbans and veils for the period. The Romanesque era was affected by the religious idealism and the Greek-Roman culture. The ideal proportion of human body could be 8 heads high and the clothes expressing natural silhouette of human body came out. Depending on the feel of the flowing texture, long-braided hair was typical in that time, and also wearing kinds of head dress as personal ornaments was characteristic in the age. In the period of Gothic, the long and weak human body was emphasized. The ideal proportion of human body could be figured with 8.5 heads high and it was expressed with the form of artificial and vertical silhouette such like tight-fitting upper garments, gathered skirts and long hats.
The purpose of this research is to understand the importance and structure of underwear which is the closest cloth to the body. Scope of this research is from middle of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century. Firstly, I studied background of the times and change of women's status and duty. Secondly, I examined the outer garment closely by the ideal beauty of each period based on the study, and thirdly I looked into structure ways of underwear. Then lastly, I took a close look about the relation of outer garment and underwear, comparing with and researching both. I studied this research, focusing on corset, crinoline and bustle based on main characters such as reform and transform among several functions of underwear. The research results are such as follows. First of all, when women's social and economic status was subjected to men, women had worn corset and fashionable dresses even though there was many object movements and vices in women's garment. Secondly, according to those movements, the ideal beauty had changed little in the same sort emphasizing on breast and hip. Thirdly, structure method of underwear changed by ideal beauty and shape of outer garment. Due to increasing sports participation, improvement of women's position, achievement of practical use, women used more drawers and stopped wearing hoop. And the weight of underwear like combination and suspender attached to corset had decreased and advanced into the more practical way. Because of industrialization, function seemed to be granted by technology development, social position change of femininity.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.34
no.3
/
pp.437-447
/
2010
This study compares by gender the preference about ideal female height and body parts. Data was collected through a survey of 203 males and 236 females. The results are as follows: Males and females prefer 161~165cm as the ideal female height and 176~180cm as the ideal male height. In regards to the ideal height difference between couples, both males and females prefer males to be taller, with the head of the female at the same height as the neck of the male. Males and females prefer the shorter height than the ideal height of a fashion model and Miss Korea who got the prize from the korean beauty contest. In the case of Miss Korea, there has been a demand for tall women to participate in world beauty contests. However, this study shows that young people prefer a shorter height than the society expects. Males and females think the shoulder width is ideal when it is 2 times wider than the width of a face in regards to the preference of the ideal female body parts. There is a difference between males and females in the ideal breast size. Males prefer C-cup size while females prefer B-cup size. The ideal size of waist preferred is between 60~65cm to both males and females. The ideal shape of legs preferred to both males and females is a slightly muscular shape.
Mannerism style evolved from the Renaissance style adopting the concept of grace as the ideal beauty, Having its ground on Neoplatonism the main goal of mannerism art was the realization of the invisible beauty over reality. Mannerism style in dress flourished in the sixteenth century court society, when courtly manners and courtly grace became the most important qualities in social relationship. Courtiers thought that courtly grace the ideal of beauty could be realized in the cultured and studied elegance. Mannerism style in dress evolved from the process of transforming and manipulating the Renaissance look for the abstract of beauty. The clothes of Mannerism style were against the natural movement of the human body. There was a tendency of refining and polishing the whole clothing and various technical skills were experim-ented on the mannerism style. The outstanding elements of this tendency can be found in the details like ruffs fathingale padding slashing puffing and etc. Mannerism intended to reconstruct the human body artificially to express courtly grace and novelty. During that process the new pose 'figura serpentinata' which is bizarre convoluted pose with full of flexibility was created. The expression of human body became more slender with elongated legs a torso with a long neck and a tiny head. This tendency of distorting the natural body forms were reflected in the formal characteristics of Mannerism dress style which is geometrical abstr-action unnatural elongation complex disposition and control with perfect ease.
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